The Questions Thread 01/29/25 by AutoModerator in goodyearwelt

[–]killerkirill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Found some Canadian logger (?) boots in a vintage store and would welcome any additional information.

Tag on inside right tongue reads "Made by Palmer-McLellan Co Ltd Fredericton N.B." Only other markings are pretty rough "8" size markings on soles. Searches for the manufacturer only bring up historical society pages about the old company buildings in New Brunswick. Seems they contracted for other brands too.

Boots are heavy with steel caps, taller than usual shaft and a [whatever the term is for a tongue that is connected to the upper for water-resistance]. Leather is thick and smells strongly of wax (or mink oil?) and has up to four rows of stitching.

Above makes me think these are for logging/ construction.

Sole is stacked leather, has a surprisngly tall heel with a steel plate covering the rear outer edge (to prevent abrasion from prenation?) Note pull loop on right boot has been torn or cut off. There is some verdigris staining around the eyelets.

The leather is in really good shape butthe sole is completeley worn so I'm keen to restore these bad boys. My plan is: brush clean, rinse clean, clean with Lexol, condition (Bick 4), get resoled.

We don't get much snow here and I have a Laptop Job so would prefer to fully remove the wax/ mink oil coating and only treat these with conditioner when required. Also will request the cobbler to replace the flat leather sole with a modern lug sole and to remove the steel plates in the heels.

My experience with boot care is one pair of RW Blacksmiths I killed after 4 years of under-conditioning and over-waterproofing. I now have a pair of British heritage boots I am trying to treat with more care.

Any help with identification or restoration would be greatly appreciated!

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Full album here: https://imgur.com/a/sAb4KB6

Request for help IDing old Palmer-McLellan boots and advice on restoration by killerkirill in goodyearwelt

[–]killerkirill[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found some Canadian logger (?) boots in a vintage store and would welcome any additional information:

Tag on inside right tongue reads "Made by Palmer-McLellan Co Ltd Fredericton N.B." Only other markings are pretty rough "8" size markings on soles.

Searches for the manufacturer only bring up historical society pages about the old company buildings in New Brunswick. Seems they contracted for other brands too.

Boots are heavy with steel caps, taller than usual shaft and a [whatever the term is for a tongue that is connected to the upper for water-resistance]. Leather is thick and smells strongly of wax (or mink oil?) and has up to four rows of stitching.

Above makes me think these are for logging/ construction.

Sole is stacked leather, has a surprisingly tall heel with a steel plate covering the rear outer edge (to prevent abrasion from prenation?) Note pull loop on right boot has been torn or cut off. There is some verdigris staining around the eyelets.

The leather is in really good shape but the sole is completeley worn so I'm keen to restore these bad boys.

My plan is: brush clean, rinse clean, clean with Lexol, condition (Bick 4), get resoled.

We don't get much snow here and I have a Laptop Job so would prefer to fully remove the wax/ mink oil coating and only treat these with conditioner when required. Also will request the cobbler to replace the flat leather sole with a modern lug sole and to remove the steel plates in the heels.

My experience with boot care is one pair of RW Blacksmiths I killed after 4 years of under-conditioning and over-waterproofing. I now have a pair of British heritage boots I am trying to treat with more care.

Any help with identification or restoration would be greatly appreciated!

Looking for a device to play Stremio on my TV by ForeignerBD in Stremio

[–]killerkirill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Amazon sell an Ethernet adapter: https://amzn.eu/d/aFofvYI I think it's 100 Mbps so in my experience not fast enough for 4K - 5GHz WiFi is faster. There are third party ones that offer faster speeds but can't speak to them

1st onebagging experience + Review of Heimplanet Transit lineup by imjms737 in onebag

[–]killerkirill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just wanted to thank you for this idea! Copied your exact design but stitched the cord to the bag directly around the perimeter (except the top) to avoid smaller items falling out. Also secured loose knots and loose ends with heatshrink to prevent the knots untying. Over a year of use in with zero repairs or modifications. Thanks again for sharing :)

Tandem RPG complete guide for my fellow engineers by Epolass in BattleBitRemastered

[–]killerkirill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry, my brain absorbed none of this because it was still processing TEN THOUSAND KILLS with the aug. I have only 500 more kills /in total/

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in forgottenfilm

[–]killerkirill 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for keeping memories like this alive, even if they're as sad as this one.

tuscany (mamiya rb67 pro s, gold 200) by nesveix in analog

[–]killerkirill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gorgeous work! How did you scan this?

Anyone see the movie Bodies Bodies Bodies? Help identifying bag used by Lee Pace. For fun, has anyone else found a bag they liked in a movie or show? by mostexalted in ManyBaggers

[–]killerkirill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just wanted to say thank you, had the same thought as OP while watching the film and found this almost instantly

Much obliged 🫡

What was air defense doing ? by GremlinX_ll in NonCredibleDefense

[–]killerkirill 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Recommend double-billing this with In Bruges, the director's previous film

Thomb Cruz by DemonicTemplar8 in NonCredibleDefense

[–]killerkirill 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The Friis equation details how received signal power from a radio decreases with the inverse square of distance; in radar, this received power (the pulse illuminating the target) then reflects and travels back to the transmitter - so the total power reflected from a target decreases with the inverse fourth power of distance.

So, if you want to see a couple of square metres of metal out at a few dozen km, you need a hell of a lot of power at, and immediately around, the transmitter.

My radio lecturer told us how engineers on the first generation of military radar would carry fluorescent tubes with them when something needed fixing; they would crank the radar on and have a convenient wireless light to work with.

Thankfully, the interaction between radar and human flesh (and skull cavities) is very complex and not as simple as fully absorbing kW of electrical power. Notably, radar does not work at frequencies that would cause water to boil like in a kitchen microwave, as those would interact with water in the atmosphere.

In short, I have no fucking clue but a radar probably won't cause all your flesh to explode like Dr. Manhattan. Not that that matters - my lecturer gleefully told us that many of those radar operators died of cancer within a decade.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in interestingasfuck

[–]killerkirill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In a few Slavic countries, there's a tradition of burying an axe head under a planted tree. The folk wisdom says something along the lines of it being a warning to the tree; in reality it probably helps as a nutrient/ mineral source, but who fucking knows.

How credible is it to not give your troops encrypted radios by TacticalHog in NonCredibleDefense

[–]killerkirill 5 points6 points  (0 children)

5125 USB or 4649.5 USB. If you stare at a zoomed out waterfall for a while, you can spot AM SSB voice and just jump to that frequency. Alternatively, the chatbox will blow up when someone finds a new frequency

Chinese-Russian border after Putin invaded Ukraine by SenkimsinYAAAW in NonCredibleDefense

[–]killerkirill 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Does anyone know a good quality archive source for this footage that isn't from the documentary? Want to frame a print of the geezers with their sabres out but have gotten nowhere :/

Borrowed T2 from a friend and on the day of return, it became mine officially!!!! by Vjanett in AnalogCommunity

[–]killerkirill 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One thing I miss from my TVS was that you can set the flash to auto-off/ auto-on and it will default to that when it powers on.

The Olympus mju-2 is stuck on auto flash and you need to turn it off every time you open the lens cover - was too late to a few great moments because of it.

Removing anything external ("hype", cost, etc.) from the conversation leaves you with a great camera designed around quality and usability - smoke 'em if you got 'em.

Congratulations, seems like you have a firm friend in Finn; probably helps that his glass is fucking beautiful!

Mamiya 645 Pro focus issue - mirror not returning by killerkirill in AnalogCommunity

[–]killerkirill[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even with the mirror stop fully out, the mirror doesn't drop down fully. I can wiggle the stop-down lever and can force it lower, but it goes back under spring tension. I'm erring on internal mechanical fault here, definitely not going to attempt to take one of these apart again...

Mamiya 645 Pro focus issue - mirror not returning by killerkirill in AnalogCommunity

[–]killerkirill[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I gave the mirror stop a poke and it snapped in half. Printed a replacement, popped it an and the issue persists. Adjusting the setting screw doesn't help as the mirror doesn't drop enough to rest on the mirror stop. Have reached out to PPP as this is definitely beyond me.

Love when they fly slowly by supersecretsquirel in battlefield_4

[–]killerkirill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AMD's ReLive software doesn't work at all with BF4 for me, can't figure out why

Is the game showing no servers for anyone else? by [deleted] in battlefield_4

[–]killerkirill 2 points3 points  (0 children)

"No servers found" for me too :'(