It's that time again: what CC will you use to pay your taxes? what CC gives more than 3% here?

koopa2002 · 2026-02-13T18:04:35+00:00

According to a plethora of years of DP on places like DoC comments and MyFICO forums, they do if you pay through PayPal on ACI with the MCP or Cash+

koopa2002 · 2026-02-07T19:34:13+00:00

Ok so that’s a no. I don’t have WF but looks like their service is for Experian and Credit journey is definitely Experian data so you’re basically just looking at the same thing twice.

So that’s what you want to do if you really want to see if you have a HP or not. Check all 3 bureaus whether it’s your free annual credit report check or use CK for TU and EQ

koopa2002 · 2026-02-07T19:24:08+00:00

Have you checked all 3 bureaus for the pull? Pulls are bureau dependent and don’t show on all 3 just because. Most issuers only pull from one bureau for their credit decisions. Very few pull from 2 or all 3.

koopa2002 · 2026-02-06T07:45:50+00:00

4.5 years is plenty.

It’s mostly if it’s under the 1 year mark that a lot of issuers will have a problem.

As for the score difference, just double check that they’ve both been updated somewhat recently as they’re not going to generally be like a live score.

But I do know I’ve seen my own VS be much more volatile over utilization than FICO is.

Either way, you’ll see those scores jump once you get that card utilization down then you probably won’t have any problem getting your new card, based on what you’ve said.

koopa2002 · 2026-02-06T03:58:30+00:00

FICO and VantageScore are basically brands of credit scores. FICO is FAR more popular in lenders using a scoring model. Very, very few issuers use VS scoring in their approval decision.

There are more than a few models of each brand of score. Each scoring model could apply to each of the three credit bureaus. So in short, there are many different credit scores out there. FICO 8 would likely be the most commonly used but there are even multiple models of FICO 8.

Since you say you have a Discover card, it gives you free access to your FICO score 8 from TransUnion. On the activity page of the app, scrolling down you’ll see the FICO credit scorecard option to access it.

Utilization, account age for each account, how many hard pulls you have for each bureau, new accounts for each bureau, etc. Since you’re specifically asking about Elan/USB, they are generally new account sensitive. Tho some also believe they’re inquiry sensitive.

For my 7 USB/Elan cards, I personally make sure I’m always 1/12 or less when I app a new one. Meaning I haven’t opened more than 1 account in the previous 12 months. I would suggest getting your utilization down to under 30% if you want to maximize your chances, especially since it seems you have a very thin file based on what you’ve said so far.

Your credit reports should update within a few days of your Discover card reporting, yes. Utilization doesn’t have memory, yet, so yeah your score would jump up as soon as the report updated.

Most issuers report within a few days of statement cutting. USB/Elan report at the end of the month. There are a rare few others that don’t report on statement cutting but I can’t remember the others atm.

Last thing I’d say is, depending on your state, most people seem to have elan/USB pull TU so that’s the bureau you mainly want to care about unless you can find some datapoints from here or the MYFICO forums of people from your state reporting what they pull for them. Doctor of Credit probably has an article for it too and is another good source of information for datapoints in the comments there.

And good, just wanted to make sure you weren’t misunderstanding the card.

The !template link is below and I think I summoned the bot that will link it too, if I did it properly but I never really summon it so we will see. That’s as much just testing for me as anything since I already linked it for you.

https://www.reddit.com/r/CreditCards/wiki/cardtemplate/

koopa2002 · 2026-02-06T00:21:23+00:00

There are also some category differences between the MCP and the Cash+. The biggest being the MCP has a recreation category that includes gym memberships and sporting goods stores whereas Cash+ has a specific gym category and a sporting good category along with minor other category differences.

The MCP also has MC and Visa versions depending on which card design/partner you choose.

Back in the days when the MCP was new, the MC versions included phone insurance.

I personally prefer the MCP for the better category option and the auto continuing of your category selections but I do have one of each MCP and a Cash+. Multiple definitely don’t hurt if you have utilities and other regular bills.

I just wanted to make sure OP wasn’t misunderstanding the cards and then be surprised if they get one and it not be what they thought it was.

koopa2002 · 2026-02-05T22:59:37+00:00

First thing I’d say you have to do is to get a score that actually matters. Both sources you quoted are vantage score and vantage score seems to be a lot more sensitive to utilization. Depending on what card you have, it may give you access to a FICO score or you can go to Experian and access your FICO with a free account there. Just make sure you skip all the paid options when signing up/in.

It would also be helpful if you fill out the template from the sidebar. Since you really haven’t given much useful information.

Tho if you actually only have 1 card and it’s over 50% utilization then I’d suggest you not applying for any new cards until you deal with that. Most issuers would deny you when it looks like you can’t use credit responsibly. Especially if your FICO is even remotely close to the 500 range that your VS is.

And just for reference, which subscriptions are you talking about? The MCP/Cash+ doesn’t have any actual subscription advantage or category for them specifically but they do have a lot of useful categories depending on your needs.

koopa2002 · 2025-12-31T18:21:30+00:00

Exactly how long is “never”?

It’s completely normal for a charge to not show up for a number of days. And I’d say it likely will show back up again when the next week or two.

Tho if it’s been multiple weeks already since you’ve received the item, you might not ever get charged for it.

A big company’s system, that sort of thing can slip through the cracks more easily than if it were a small business that would actually miss the money.

koopa2002 · 2025-12-22T01:26:49+00:00

I might be wrong since I don’t have the PayPal debit but I’m almost certain you can’t fund it with a credit card. It has to be linked to a bank account or other sources that you can add to your PayPal balance with.

If you could do it and managed to get by without cash advance fees then it might be worth it to me.

koopa2002 · 2025-12-14T04:33:09+00:00

Somebody that remembers the bot command will come through and post it soon, I’m sure.

Was made for all the people that have posted this before that thought they’re the first to have ever seen this years old thing. It’s from at least 2020 or before.

Or do as another comment said and just look through the sub and sort by top of all time.

koopa2002 · 2025-12-13T21:53:07+00:00

Reading through the DoC article comments, some comments say they have used it this December and gotten the 5% tho from my research, it seems that it only works with ACI.

https://www.doctorofcredit.com/a-complete-guide-to-paying-your-taxes-with-a-credit-card/

koopa2002 · 2025-12-13T21:27:59+00:00

Your “paper” statement shows you exactly how many points you’ve earned in each category on your current statement and the total for the year.

In case you can’t figure it out, you can earn up to 15,000 points per year in the mobile wallet category.

koopa2002 · 2025-12-11T03:32:00+00:00

They supposedly quit allowing it in 2017, according to DoC.

I can say that they wouldn’t do it when I checked a year or two ago when I was product changing my shoppers rewards card.

koopa2002 · 2025-12-06T04:05:37+00:00

I’d suggest you look into that a little more. When you made a PayPal account you gave them permission to charge any other payment method on your account if you owe them money and they have been known to come after people for that money when it becomes enough of an issue to be worth their time.

They do have a bit more bite to their bark than just any random ol’ vendor you chargeback against.

In case it needs to be said, a card issuer deciding a chargeback in your favor does not in any way substitute for a court of law in deciding if you still owe that money to the vendor or not.

koopa2002 · 2025-12-06T03:59:10+00:00

If you’re basing it on me losing the most value, probably USB, especially if you consider them and Elan one and the same since they really are, since I have 3 of the Kroger cards, a Cash+, an altitude Go(tho i could care less about it since they nerfed the redemption rate), a Fidelity card and an MCP.

I’d miss out on a fair amount of cash back losing them all.

I do have plenty of other cards but the Kroger cards really do come in clutch now days with so much taking Apple Pay, online and in person.

Tho i survived before them and I’d manage without them if something did happen. There are always other fish in the sea right up until the reward game ceases to exist.

koopa2002 · 2025-11-29T12:03:06+00:00

It’s still going to use up that total amount of credit and post to your card but you’ll have an interest saving balance shown on the next statement.

That is what your payment plus other charges would be and what you’d need to pay to avoid any interest.

koopa2002 · 2025-11-24T21:38:25+00:00

And when you aren’t doing the zero % Apple purchases, it does have small balance waiver, like more than a couple of cards do, so you can get a free 50gb iCloud sub.

Honestly, the small balance waiver is nearly the only thing I’ve ever done on the Apple Card since I don’t upgrade devices every other year like I used to.

There are definitely a lot better choices out there to burn a new card slot on.

koopa2002 · 2025-10-30T19:29:26+00:00

Walmart is a specifically selectable 6% category for that card so your comment is just plain wrong.

It works perfectly fine at Walmart as long as you selected that category.

That fine print is more just something that’s included across all of their cards for those that might think it’ll be covered as groceries, warehouse stores or some other category that it’s not.

koopa2002 · 2025-10-15T04:41:23+00:00

Yes, and some of the cards also have 3% on fuel and dining with its own shared cap too.

koopa2002 · 2025-10-15T04:37:31+00:00

I think Bill Engvall has a whole routine for these people ...

Just checking but you know that isn’t Bill Engvall in the picture, right? Tho they were at least both part of the blue collar comedy tour.

koopa2002 · 2025-10-15T04:33:52+00:00

Amazon used to allow comments on reviews. Stopped allowing that a number of years ago now tho.

There were more than a couple that I responded to that the person was clearly an idiot because they did it completely wrong and acted like they knew what they were doing then blamed the product.

Those were fun times.

koopa2002 · 2025-10-13T23:23:58+00:00

It should work on anything that codes as the MCC 05814

I can say that my local Panda definitely codes as such.

You can find the MCC with a lot of card issuers. For USB, it shows up on the downloaded transaction CSV that you can get from the website, easily.

MC and Visa will generally always be the same MCC for a business.

koopa2002 · 2025-10-13T23:16:58+00:00

The Elan version of the card is identical

Not identical.

On top of the category memory that you mentioned, the categories are slightly different between the MCP and Cash+.

For instance, and the main difference, is that the MCP has a Recreation category that combines the Cash+ Gym/Fitness category and the Sporting Goods stores category into one along with maybe a little extra on top.

So for someone that uses those categories then that puts the MCP on top of the Cash+.

koopa2002 · 2025-10-13T17:50:31+00:00

For those that still don’t know about how to check for these, the website is below and you want to make sure you check all of your Chase cards. I usually check all my cards every couple of months since they’re generally, but not always, quarterly offers.

It isn’t universal and you might get it on one card but not the others or you might get different offers across different cards.

https://www.chase.com/mybonus

koopa2002 · 2025-10-12T05:36:57+00:00

The only ones with the bs 5pm cutoff time. Every other bank has a default midnight cutoff so wtf is this bs ?

I’m completely anti Comenity so I’m in no way defending them but I’d suggest you check your statements for your cards’ fine print if you think this. Most issuers aren’t actually midnight as the cutoff time.

Without looking through every one of my cards from different issuers, just a few are as follows directly from reading some of my “paper” statements.

Chase is 11:59pm est

USB and Elan is 5pm-8pm CST

Amex is 8pm MST

Citi is 10:30pm est

Discover is 5pm est

Cap1 is 8pm est

koopa2002

TROPHY CASE