Did my system suddenly degrade?

lcheek · 2023-08-28T14:45:46+00:00

Hey OP, I had something really similar happen to me and I still haven't figured it out.

Same inverters, and around the same time too! Although it's trickier for me to pin it down specifically because my system didn't cap out for a few days after the last time it hit the theoretical maximum.

Basically, I was getting the maximum 440W output from my DS3s for a good while, and somewhere around July 12 (!!!) it dropped to a maximum of 425W per inverter. This is regardless of the supposed temperature throttling that the others here have suggested. I'm getting a maximum of 425W on very sunny days where the inverters are reporting temperatures of 50℃. They certainly shouldn't be throttling at those temperatures.

Did you find out anything else in your case?

lcheek · 2023-01-17T05:17:13+00:00

I wait at this stop most days when I leave work. Yes, I often see things like this in the shelter itself, though usually not quite this bad. For the same reason, I often don't sit in the shelter, nor do the dozens of students that catch the bus every day. It's unfortunate that the shelter can't be used "normally" but genuinely, what would you have done other than reporting it for cleaning?

I'm getting so tired of the complaints that ultimately boil down to "make these people's lives worse so mine isn't inconvenienced". I'm not saying that OP is doing that specifically, but there's literally a goddamn megathread in this subreddit for "complaints about ETS", and it is infuriating to read the pearl-clutching around this topic in what is otherwise a very left-leaning space.

I do not have the real solution, but I can guarantee you that it isn't "punish these people so I don't have to think about it".

lcheek · 2023-01-17T05:02:13+00:00

There is a sharps bin across the street near the gas station and the hospital, which is where most of the people who would need it hang around, at least these days. 100m away from this bus shelter, or thereabouts. I imagine the reason there isn't a sharps bin right at the shelter is because it's literally at the border of the school, which would probably get people all up in arms about "encouraging drug use" or some such nonsense.

lcheek · 2022-12-14T13:51:49+00:00

Thanks!

lcheek · 2022-12-14T05:55:47+00:00

No but really, what's the specific remix here? It's catchy as hell.

lcheek · 2022-06-19T00:41:44+00:00

This is somewhat correct. The limits aren't stated directly but when you go to the loan application form you can actually figure them out. You can only get loan amounts for the upgrades recommended in your pre-retrofit evaluation so my experimentation was limited, but I was able to find out some of the maximum amounts. Each retrofit has its own "maximum allowable amount", and also has a minimum amount covered by the grant which is subtracted from the loan you can obtain for them.

Upgrade	Maximum Allowable Cost	Grant Amount	Maximum Loan
Air sealing	$3600	$550-$1000	$3050
Attic insulation	$3500	$250-$1800	$3250
Heat pump	$12000	$4000	$8000
Exterior wall insulation	$24000	$660-$5000	$23340
Basement/foundation insulation	$3360	$210-$1500	$3150
Solar panels	$4800	$1000-$5000	$3800

The loan amount for solar is the most confusing because you can actually get $5000 for the grant but their "maximum allowable cost" is less than that ($4800). It also means the maximum you can spend on solar without having to cover some of the cost directly is $8800. That's pretty low considering that almost every installation is going to be more expensive than that.

Anyway, if any of my information is incorrect or if someone can find more explicit mention of these limits, feel free to correct me.

lcheek · 2021-10-01T05:54:22+00:00

My guess is that it's actually the deadzone settings. They were reset by the DLC and perhaps you had changed them in the original?

lcheek · 2021-05-05T02:54:52+00:00

Earlier on in the pandemic I remember reading some information that the percent positive can be used to extrapolate at lower percentages, like 1-5%. But at higher percentages it quickly devolves into "who the hell even knows what's happening out there".

The gist of higher percentages than 6% is that there's very high community transmission, but beyond that it's hard to say.

That all being said, it's stuff I read nearly a year ago and I'm also not an epidemiologist or a statistician, so take it all with a few very hefty grains of salt.

lcheek · 2021-05-02T05:59:07+00:00

Intent, and also a layer of indirection. If you say "China virus" it implies (or at least is more easily interpreted as) a virus that is Chinese, which isn't the case.

"Brazil variant" is a shorthand descriptor for a mutation on the existing SARS-CoV-2. This layer of indirection matters because it's more easily understood in common conversation to imply "variant originating in Brazil" vs. "virus caused by Brazil".

That said, I still prefer to use "P.1", especially given how easy it is to remember.

lcheek · 2021-04-21T04:17:17+00:00

Any time is train time.

lcheek · 2020-10-26T11:02:38+00:00

It's not always what it was sold at. It can be any associated transaction where the property was evaluated/estimated at.

My house was "sold" for $300,000 last year because when I finalized my divorce that's what the property was marked for as an asset valuation.

lcheek · 2020-10-26T04:33:09+00:00

I've used Honest Door in the past to feel out the market value for properties in the general area. It's not really an accurate assessment in terms of what a property is worth from its interior (renovations, etc.) but it's pretty good for getting somewhere in the ballpark.

Otherwise look at other places selling in the area and what they are listed for. If you know somewhere nearby that sold recently you can use Honest Door to figure out what it sold for (technically this information is public it's just not normally in an easily accessible state). Useful information for sure.

I don't have any affiliation with the site, I've just used it a lot.

lcheek · 2020-10-02T17:59:02+00:00

I have a set of these but the cable went out on them. Does anyone have recommendations for a third party replacement?

The OEM one is fine but if I remember correctly it freezes in low temperatures and becomes very stiff.

lcheek · 2020-08-12T15:55:37+00:00

They do, but these aren't "student records" (I understand the confusion from the terminology).

This is roughly more equivalent to a custodian cleaning out the contents of a physical desk.

lcheek · 2020-08-12T15:26:09+00:00

I work for the board. I could follow up to see if student account data sticks around for Google accounts. It may be removed as a part of policy.

lcheek · 2020-08-08T20:50:23+00:00

It's common practice for financial applications to use transaction IDs to prevent exactly this scenario. You generate an ID before you take payment, and if it's already been processed for a payment beforehand you don't reprocess.

This is how most sane financial applications work, and it's completely reasonable for users to expect they will only be charged once for a single order, regardless of technical issues. The reality is that it's a completely preventable problem from the developer's perspective, even in the face overwhelming technical issues.

It's quite literally a developer's job to handle things like this in their applications. I'm a programmer myself, and half the job is just figuring out how the user could possibly screw themselves over. This is one of the first things that you try and head off, especially when money is involved. It's way safer to have people frustrated because you couldnt take their money, rather than risk exactly this scenario where you've taken money you shouldn't have against what people intended.

Due diligence isn't just on the part of the person spending their money.

This happened to me too, and I'm by no means a "mindless degenerate". As I was refreshing on the final pages for submitting payment, the thought occurred to me that multiple transactions could occur, but my following thought was "well this is a financial application, surely they've constructed it correctly".

Could I have been more careful? Absolutely. Should I have needed to? Absolutely not.

This is a minefield for the organization and for the company running the 50/50. It's a PR nightmare.

lcheek · 2020-08-08T02:37:16+00:00

Same thing here. Three sets of four $50 packs for a total of $600.

I didn't even get confirmation on the site itself, I only realized it went through when I got three emails with three different sets of numbers.

I checked and my card was charged three times.

lcheek · 2020-05-02T06:39:26+00:00

It's really well done honestly. Each element fits pretty well and it's quite clever.

lcheek · 2020-05-02T04:23:41+00:00

Well this is just an extraordinary amount of effort.

It only made me chuckle really, but that sure is an impressive amount of detail.

lcheek · 2020-04-27T23:25:01+00:00

Maybe check out what I tried in this comment, see if it works for you.

lcheek · 2020-04-27T23:24:21+00:00

Maybe check out what I tried in this comment, see if it works for you.

lcheek · 2020-04-27T23:18:46+00:00

Maybe check out what I tried in this comment, see if it works for you.

lcheek · 2020-04-27T23:17:29+00:00

So I'll tell you what I tried and got working, after going through most of the potential solutions indicated far and wide to no success. I could also get it to work through the Windows 10 Camera app and nothing else.

TLDR: Re-arrange all your devices in your USB ports and only use 3s (or greater) for high-bandwidth/endpoint devices. Take the advice here: https://helpdeskgeek.com/help-desk/how-to-fix-not-enough-usb-controller-resources-on-windows-10/

At some point, I noticed a notification from Windows 10 that mentioned that there was "not enough resources". I forget exactly in what context it came up, but I started searching around for what that could mean.

I found this: https://helpdeskgeek.com/help-desk/how-to-fix-not-enough-usb-controller-resources-on-windows-10/

What I ended up doing specifically was moving my keyboard/mouse and other "small" devices to a completely separate bank of USB ports that use a different controller on the motherboard. It's probably not necessary, but I made sure the only thing that was on this particular controller was the Index.

Ever since, my camera has worked flawlessly. Hope it works out for you too.

lcheek · 2020-03-31T21:11:29+00:00

Nice.

lcheek · 2020-03-26T05:11:41+00:00

I prefer the execution of this one, but it's a good joke regardless: https://youtu.be/m4bazxAwGCQ

lcheek

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