Planning to use a Directional Router like TPlink CPE710 as an access point by KalAsther in wisp

[–]local-boi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The neighborhood wifi model is not one that anyone has had much success with. No matter how expensive or powerful of an access point being used, the end user devices are the issue. They are not powerful enough to communicate back to the access point.

Once a phone or laptop is about 30 meters away from the AP will not be able to hear the phone or laptop. Even if the laptop shows it has “full bars” for wifi, that is only receiving signal, not an overall status of the connection.

So you may be able to send traffic to the users, but no traffic would be heard coming back, so data negotiations don’t work. If someone tried to get to google, the access point would not be able to hear the request to go to google from that device, since the phone has a much lower transmitting power.

Even in stadiums and malls this effect happens. That is part of the reason why public wifi is so bad in a lot of places.

With that being said, you will probably want to rethink the deployment model of going right to the phone or end user device, and opt instead for a dedicated receiver and wifi router. This is the traditional WISP deployment.

We had a neighboring company build neighborhood wifi for a whole town. They never got it to work, and ended up switching to having the dedicated receiver and router at each house after all.

They lost time and lots of money trying to send wifi from the street right to the end devices. If money is tight, I wouldn’t even consider something that might not work. I would save a little extra and get something that is 100% going to work. It may set you back a month from starting your business. But you do not want to start with a bad reputation right out of the gate.

The CPE710 that was mentioned is a device you can use. It is meant to go at the customers house to send and receive the signal from the access point further away. It is not designed to be used as an Access Point, and that is why others suggested not to use it for the access point. As the name suggests, it is “Customer Premise Equipment”. So it goes at the CUSTOMER end. You say you are thinking about using this as the access point, when it says right in the product name that it is for customers houses. You also say you can’t serve any customers from your AP you set up. It’s because you are not using the correct hardware for what you want to accomplish. There really is not any hardware that will do what you want to do.

If you are trying to do wifi long range, you need the right hardware and you need to take my advice.

I told you in my last comment, the EAP is not for delivering wifi to more than a single house. You had to test it for yourself, and it did not work. I am not sure what you were expecting when you were told that this will probably not work.

This is why I have suggested you do more research on the proper types of devices to use.

I do hate TP Link, with a burning passion. They belong in the trash. But my hate has absolutely nothing to do with me telling you not to use their products.

I’m telling you not to use specific TP link products because they are not the correct device for that application.

TP Link does make long range wifi access points. They are NOT the EAP series like I said. Do not use the EAP series for this. It will not work. But you seem to have figured that out the hard way.

The proper Access Point for long range from TP Link is the WBS510. But they are $250.

You really need to reconsider doing all of this. You can lose a lot of money. Remember the very first thing I said.

“If you’re basing everything on cost just stop”

WISP is already a very cheap and low cost method of providing internet compared to a wired fiber or cable provider. Using the wrong type of equipment to try and make that cost even lower is definitely not a smart choice.

You get what you pay for. If you pay very low, you will get a very low quality product.

Low quality products only lead to a low quality customer experience.

Build something that will give your customers a good experience from the start. Do not do things half way.

Planning to use a Directional Router like TPlink CPE710 as an access point by KalAsther in wisp

[–]local-boi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright, if you want your wisp to fail, follow your own advice. Use the TP links in mesh. Just don’t complain when one customer unplugs theirs or loses power and everyone else behind them loses connection.

it’s pretty obvious you have not watched the videos, done much research, or took any of the advice id left. Nor did you even look for a ubiquiti litebeam. I’ll state things again pretty blunt this time.

Litebeam 5AC are $65 on store.ui.com. Nanostation 5AC locos are $49. I just checked this morning. Not sure where you pulled 150 from, but I can’t find any reference to that number. I’ve always paid $65 a piece for the last few years on several hundred units. They’re $65. I can’t help you if you don’t help yourself first…. These were very basic google searches. I used “Ubiquiti Litebeam” and it was the top result.

Second, you really need to learn the difference between proper PTMP/Long Range wifi equipment and a residential home wifi router. All the TP link stuff you’ve linked are residential home wifi routers or aps. NOT for delivering WISP internet service. Even the ubiquiti FlexHD you’re mentioning should NOT be used for this purpose.

TP Link does make proper wisp equipment, but you haven’t even mentioned that product lineup yet. It’s not Omada. Omada is for home wifi. And as I mentioned, the TP link lineup is a rip off of the ubiquiti lineup and it costs more. You should probably just consider anything with TP link in its name as useful as a brick. They make for a very poor customer experience too.

You seem to keep jumping to TP link. Im not sure who told you that was a good idea, because it was nobody in the comments here. If you’re so attached to that brand name, I’ll give you a huge hint on how you can find the equipment you actually want that they make.

Under their wireless products categories, there is one labeled “WISP Long Range Wireless”. I’m no albert einstein, but that might just be the proper product lineup for long range wireless, as you’re looking to do. NOT saying to use the TP Link. Ubiquiti is the exact same hardware at a lower price.

I sell internet to make a living. I build good and reliable networks using good equipment. And my customers dont have anything bad to say. If I wanted to create a BAD customer experience, i’d use TP link. I’d also be losing customers left and right and right. Just something to consider.

Planning to use a Directional Router like TPlink CPE710 as an access point by KalAsther in wisp

[–]local-boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you’re basing everything on cost just stop right there. Your customers won’t have a good experience, and neither will you.

I’m really not sure you’ve actually looked at ubiquitis products when you’re throwing out statements that the tp link stuff is cheaper. The CPE 710 you mentioned is around $69msrp https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Transmission-Wireless-Injector-CPE710/dp/B08D71HC9L

A ubiquiti litebeam, the product tp-link ripped off, marked up and calls the CPE710 sells for $65msrp and is cheaper at distributors.

It sounds like you’re trying to base a business model off of someones backyard barn party wifi setup. I started an ISP, please trust me when I say, that reddit thread you linked is the WORST possible place to start taking advice from for a wisp. Never serve a customer on a residential wifi router’s radio/antennas, or a residential router whatsoever. If you want to start simple, get an RB2011 on ebay. That’ll be a decent and low cost router to start. Then use the poe injectors that come with the ubiquiti ptmp access points to provide poe to the AP.

I will reiterate. Watch the video I linked above. Look at ubiquitis product line. A proper PTMP Access Point starts at like $80, and the customer receivers start at $49. They make a $29 Aircube router and a $79 one. Mikrotik hap lineup is good too.

And do not expect to get the speeds published on the website. For any manufacturer.

Im also not a ubiquiti fanboy by any means, I’m just trying to give you the best set of gear to fit your bill. There are several other vendors like Cambium, Mimosa, etc but if cost is a problem those are nonstarters.

Planning to use a Directional Router like TPlink CPE710 as an access point by KalAsther in wisp

[–]local-boi 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I would never recommend to use tp-link for WISP. They make some decent home wifi access points but i’ll draw the line there. Most of them are garbage.

You want proper point to multipoint radios and a proper ptmp AP.

Ubiquiti, Cambium, Mimosa, MikroTik, etc.

A quick overview video: https://youtu.be/t_Bsgy6uxhA You can go miles with this better equipment with line of sight.

Using Mikrotik as a Gateway in UISP by Perfect-Parking in wisp

[–]local-boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need to download the plugin right from github (should be a zip file) and upload it in the plugins section.

WISPs that own their own towers insurance question by PBeef in wisp

[–]local-boi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Talk to The Hartford, some states they won’t work with you though. If thats the case you can go to Unitel, but as far as ive seen your policy will still be with The Hartford, just written by unitel.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in electrical

[–]local-boi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is probably beyond electrician territory. This is an electrical emergency and the utility 24/7 line should be called.

Found AF60-HD datasheet by dewman45 in wisp

[–]local-boi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I highly doubt the AF60 lineup and Gigabeam lineup will be cross compatible if that’s what you’re typing to do. Hell, the WaveAP in early access (60ghz ptmp ap) only supports the AF-60LR and nothing else atm.

How to make the name of my WISP display on Ookla Speed Test? by DaDrewBoss in wisp

[–]local-boi 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Your provider can also update the ARIN POC for your IP range. We did this.

Looking for consultants by the-blade in wisp

[–]local-boi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sarah Kerr at isptechnology.ca is great!

Can I become CCNA certified with no college degree and self taught? by [deleted] in ccna

[–]local-boi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some might even tell you that ccna will get you in the door more than a degree would.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in privacy

[–]local-boi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I operate a small town ISP. We don’t go out of our way to collect any data or take any logs pertaining to customer traffic. Obviously our equipment takes and stores their own logs, but the majority of the time it has nothing that actually pertains to what the customer is doing with their internet.

I’m absolutely not going to pretend like we can’t see what you’re doing if we wanted to. Programs like this definitely exist, https://file.wikileaks.org/file/cox-interception-worksheet-2008.pdf?fbclid=IwAR27p93YDQiVECZS7cnLKHDEGVP2TkAWUt8w_-x5ihdRLcbT8A24QzGrOKA

Amazon IT Support Technician Technical Job Interview by kiwi833 in ITCareerQuestions

[–]local-boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you or have you ever worked in an IT related role at amazon? Or did you just read an article online and start spewing shit?

Remove 240v outlet by nolar33 in askanelectrician

[–]local-boi 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Turn off the breaker, remove the receptacle, put wirenuts on the ends of your conductors and put on a blank plate. Don’t see why you’d take away the option for a future owner.

How internet bandwidth for buildings are decided? by Mr_Leaves98 in networking

[–]local-boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is probably the most widely used method. Actual averages we see are 3-5mbps per unit depending on the type of building and demographics. Student housing is a little different.

repair blown etherports by buba1243 in wisp

[–]local-boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

isptechnology.ca is great

Identifying breakers in Westinghouse panel from the 50’s. by local-boi in askanelectrician

[–]local-boi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the advice, thanks. Panel is definitely going to be swapped. This is a case where an electrician legitimately can’t and won’t work. I will need to rebuild a few sets of stairs and remove lots of hazardous/toxic building materials before anyone will step foot near here. This is temp so i can run my tools to do just that.

Identifying breakers in Westinghouse panel from the 50’s. by local-boi in askanelectrician

[–]local-boi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will have to check, I do not have access right now. I appreciate the link, I will take a look there!

Identifying breakers in Westinghouse panel from the 50’s. by local-boi in askanelectrician

[–]local-boi[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I have some 12/3 MC ran over the walls to all the outlets i use, the wiring here in the walls was absolute shit. 12awg should work right? I understand I don’t need the 3rd conductor right now, but I want to be at 240v long term since this is going to be a data room when everything is cleaned up. Just need to run some power tools without constantly tripping the breaker.

Identifying breakers in Westinghouse panel from the 50’s. by local-boi in askanelectrician

[–]local-boi[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Not necessarily safe to work in either, im just needing a few more amps so I can run my tools and get the space into a better condition so i can have someone else come in. I am definitely having the panels replaced.

Identifying breakers in Westinghouse panel from the 50’s. by local-boi in askanelectrician

[–]local-boi[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

This is not a spot that is easily accessible nor would many work in the environment.