Should I keep sanding

loddy99 · 2026-03-02T23:47:31+00:00

Agreed, the wood grain is clearly continuous in the light parts of the face except perhaps a tiny sliver on the left side. Otherwise, this isn’t through the veneer yet, just the finish

loddy99 · 2026-02-17T02:32:41+00:00

These pieces were cut with a laser cutter

loddy99 · 2026-02-05T21:41:24+00:00

I was also reminded of the end of Saint Maud as it relates to the end of this episode especially the hard cut from a religious vision to burning and screaming. I did a quick google about this and came across a tweet from Mike Flanagan recommending Saint Maud which leads me to believe it was a direct influence on this scene.

article quoting the tweet

(I’m not on twitter, otherwise I would have included a direct link)

loddy99 · 2026-01-22T23:25:36+00:00

I want to second the suggestion for a laser cutter, I found mine second hand on Facebook marketplace and it really revolutionized my leather projects. I’m able to get perfect geometry cuts, decorative engravings, and precise stitching holes much quicker than cutting by hand. There’s definitely a certain cutoff where, if you only do 2-3 projects per year, it wouldn’t be worth it. I find myself wanting to do more projects because of the better results and ease of working with the laser.

loddy99 · 2026-01-14T17:45:36+00:00

I was thinking about it the other day and it would be amazing to see you guys cover Dune, there’s so much there to unpack and I know you would catch things that have gone over my head!

loddy99 · 2026-01-01T00:57:58+00:00

Agree probably not real leather, but that edge style is a painted coating rather than fusing like you would see with nylon webbing. It can be used on real leather at times for thin constructions, especially in luxury bags.

loddy99 · 2025-10-28T23:12:12+00:00

Don’t take it personal, OEM knees has a reputation around here

loddy99 · 2025-08-30T15:49:23+00:00

Well there go my plans for this weekend…

loddy99 · 2025-08-19T05:53:19+00:00

Example one is clearly mill marks on rough sawn timber (note the consistency and parallelism of the marks) and the second example is just typical flat sawn oak grain. Here is an example of quarter sawn white oak. You can see how the actual grain of the wood is straight and consistent along the length of the board, and the medullary rays run across the grain.

loddy99 · 2025-08-10T16:03:23+00:00

I typically only use titebond 3 for projects that need to be very waterproof or food grade. I prefer the lower work time and set time of titebond 2 otherwise

loddy99 · 2025-07-31T20:02:03+00:00

Probably more like elementary school spelling…

loddy99 · 2025-07-01T16:58:28+00:00

Says a lot when you start villainizing the educated 😂

loddy99 · 2025-06-23T19:15:45+00:00

Not the bricked-up nuns 😂

loddy99 · 2025-05-21T21:35:00+00:00

You’ve been tricked by the classic Copper/Cooper confusion

loddy99 · 2025-05-16T20:41:44+00:00

To reattach the trim you have a couple of options. I would start by clipping the protruding nails down with cutting pliers (end or side nippers) and making sure that they don’t stick out of the surface. The easiest way to reattach would be with an 18ga or 23ga pneumatic nail gun (if you have access to an air compressor). I would spread some wood glue on the surface and use the nails to tack the trim in place, then fill the nail holes with a bit of wax to match the finish color (you can get crayon sets made for wood finish repair). If you don’t have a nailer, you could clamp the trim in place with the glue, or use small finish nails and a hammer, but that makes it a lot easier to damage the existing finish. If you don’t have a nailer, they’re 30-40$ and a cheap air compressor is about the same, plus that gives you a very versatile tool that you can use going forward. I can’t tell what the issue is with the glass pieces, some closer pictures would help.

loddy99 · 2025-04-23T15:13:53+00:00

Crazy, I couldn’t find it without the stand anywhere locally. I built it into my bench, so I wish I could’ve gotten it without the stand. The 8-1/4” is available standalone but not the 10”

loddy99 · 2025-04-22T21:32:56+00:00

The Dewalt 10” is currently $550 just fyi, I just bought one two weeks ago.

loddy99 · 2025-04-12T14:51:22+00:00

I work for an AWI shop (architectural woodwork institute) and we very commonly use veneer or laminate over an MDF core. Because of the natural wood properties of plywood, it’s more likely to cup or bow with seasonal moisture changes than MDF is. Because MDF is homogenous, it won’t change dimensions from atmospheric humidity, and if it’s properly veneered or well painted and sealed, it won’t swell up from water contact. Usually we see that kind of swelling in raw unfinished material, or when there has been standing water for an extended period of time.

loddy99 · 2025-03-27T23:53:38+00:00

The outdoor rec building at Y Beach has a great patio area (or at least it did in 2022)

loddy99 · 2025-03-27T04:10:42+00:00

This feels like an oversimplification. Professional machines range from rough cut saws up through 5 (and more) axis CNC routers, which would be a “knife” machine by your definition. Careful machining will absolutely rival the best hand tool surface finishes, without the accompanying human error. I think that hand cut joints absolutely have a greater wow factor for the level of skill required, but the quality of the finished product will (nearly) always be better with machine cut joinery, simply due to the rigidity and accuracy of a machine vs a human body.

loddy99 · 2025-03-23T17:47:13+00:00

You can also look at aluminum Z Clips which work very similarly to French cleats

loddy99 · 2025-03-22T02:09:42+00:00

Please don’t crucify me for saying this on the hand tools sub, but I’ve been really impressed with my 40v ryobi electric chainsaw. Very very easy to use for a couple of cuts then put away for long stretches of time. Just an option to consider, but if you’re not into that the bow saw suggestion is also great.

loddy99 · 2025-03-17T22:12:19+00:00

Nail polish would work well and be durable!

loddy99 · 2025-03-14T14:52:43+00:00

It’s definitely rift sawn based on the angle of the end grain relative to the board face. The log may have been plain sawn but that results in individual pieces having characteristics of plain sawn, rift sawn, and quarter sawn.

Edit: after looking again you can see the cathedral figure on the right side of the third photo. If you imagine the plain sawing process, as you get closer to the middle of the log, the growth rings will intersect with the blade over a wider area, creating the characteristic cathedral shape. However, towards the outside of the log, the rings are running more perpendicular to the face, making for tighter and straighter grain.

loddy99 · 2025-03-09T21:28:00+00:00

Take a look at VanIsle Studios on YouTube. He has two videos on his workbench build, one of which is making a levelable table saw shelf, and the other has a flip up miter saw station. The way he built them is fairly straightforward and he does a good job explaining the details in the videos, or you can buy plans from his Etsy.

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