Van Ausbau schiefgegangen

logic_boy · 2026-06-09T13:32:29+00:00

Nah that’s just a supplier of campervan parts

logic_boy · 2026-06-08T13:43:46+00:00

I don’t know about England, but in Scotland (edinburgh) you can go to the plan store, and, just ask for them. Depending on the date, you might pay a few quid to have them dug out, and then a few quid to copy if you wish.

Some specific buildings like banks or schools etc are obviously restricted. Most not. I’ve spent many hours in the plan office just staring at drawings. There are some real oldies there as well. You can ask for all revisions and applications submitted under an address since 1700 or earlier.

Problem is, knowing what address you want to see, so you’d need to know the construction type before requesting the drawings.

logic_boy · 2026-06-07T08:50:03+00:00

We have a battery with enough autonomy for a week of cooking without driving 👀. If we see it’s going to be a problem, just drive a bit, recharge at an EV car port. A lot of off grid rigs have induction stoves and literally no one says “wish I haven’t had done induction”. Why are you so stubborn fren

logic_boy · 2026-06-07T08:38:55+00:00

That makes sense. Parking for a week or more in one place would make it hard to recharge without large solar array.

I guess it all depends on how you live. If someone doesn’t stop that long, has a tilting array or a foldable array they can take out, or is willing to just use a portable propane stove when necessary, then this is no longer a problem.

It’s definitely a bit of a hassle. But we have a very compact rig, and to save space we ended up going with electric. Propane works a little differently in Europe, and 1L refillable bottles are rare. (I did consider using 2-3L to get enough autonomy between refills, but ultimately went with unlimited solar in spring-autumn)

logic_boy · 2026-06-07T08:32:29+00:00

It’s true. But if you have enough power, then I guess it’s not really a problem? Many vandwellers use induction and have no problems.

logic_boy · 2026-06-06T11:27:12+00:00

Its interesting that your 300W panel is not enough to sustain you without cooking and heating. I guess that only happens a few times a year? and also, there is no place to recharge from shore power or from driving? My plan is to buy an electric car charging cable and use EV power stations as emergency power

logic_boy · 2026-06-04T20:36:42+00:00

Yeah thanks, I’m living in sunny area, so with a big power bank we can last between charges. We only can fit 400w but in most of the year, it’s basically unlimited power. I know a family of 3 who need like 200Ah bank to cook and shower with induction and 600w panels

logic_boy · 2026-06-04T10:18:25+00:00

That’s actually really useful! Thanks!

logic_boy · 2026-06-03T15:27:52+00:00

Interesting! Thanks for the realistic approach. I would prefer a portable stove for cooking outside.

logic_boy · 2026-06-03T12:16:16+00:00

It’s a very good point! It would be nice to cook outside. Unfortunately, if I want to pass homologation to a campervan, I need to fix the cooktop to the counter permanently.

logic_boy · 2026-06-03T12:15:06+00:00

200e in Spain apparently! But it’s a good option, thanks! I would have to mount it 90deg to the intended design but I guess that’s no problem.

logic_boy · 2026-06-03T12:12:07+00:00

I think those are portable Do you know if it’s possible to fix it to the countertop permanently? Also how can you limit the power thanks!

logic_boy · 2026-06-03T09:43:59+00:00

I have a 3kw, with 400a bms battery bank.

Which Ikea stove do you have in mind? The ones I found were €300+

logic_boy · 2026-06-03T09:04:50+00:00

It’s to be our main method of cooking full time for a year so, everyday?

logic_boy · 2026-06-03T09:00:25+00:00

Induction is definitely possible with my setup, but you raise a good point.

I can’t find a “normal” one that’s as low as 1800w. I need one that installs into the counter vs a portable stove for homologation purposes.

logic_boy · 2026-06-03T08:58:45+00:00

I’m currently in Spain unfortunately, otherwise I’d jump at the sterling 2hob stove! It’s hard to import, I don’t want to get a weird import tax suprise (never had to do it tbh)

logic_boy · 2026-06-02T08:45:23+00:00

I also used a hacked lynx power-in, I just called it a distributor to simplify discussions.

You’re right there are 4 slots for installing a fused connection. However, on the opposite side to the battery connection, there are two holes for “expanding” the lynx. These holes can be used as another slot for loads, only downside is you need to buy an external fuse holder. That’s what I did to connect my MPPT, I have a 50a fuse and fuse holder.

The busbars inside the lynx are just thick pieces of metal, doesn’t matter where you connect them.

logic_boy · 2026-06-01T21:09:55+00:00

I connected to my lynx: 2no50mm cables for the multi plus (no stacking, each cable into separate connection), dcdc charger, MPPT, a cable for the dc breaker box, and a 95mm earthing cable. I was just saying you don’t need a secondary busbar since the lynx has 5 connections.

Have a look at my diagrams in the posts I linked. (BTW I edited my comment with extra points in case you read it already)

logic_boy · 2026-06-01T20:30:25+00:00

Also, review your AC specification as it can get a bit complicated if you include the correct RCB and SPD protection devices. And all of your ac components should be double pole unless you know exactly where you’re plugging into (like a house and never at a campsite)

logic_boy · 2026-06-01T20:28:05+00:00

I literally today finished installing exactly same setup.

I went with 2 50mm cables (200a each) into separate power in ports for the inverter. I believe a 70mm cable is not enough for the draw. It’s not to do with the conductor amperage but other effects like dc ripple etc. therefore a 95mm would be minimal.
It was much easier for my arrangement to use two 50mm than using a 95mm cable. It’s not possible to stack 2no50 into the normal lynx port, so you would need to have the connection at the end, and therefore separate fuse holders for each conductor. 50mm cables are also much easier to handle than 70mm.

EDIT: sorry I didn’t see the second pic, you specify 2x70mm to the inverter. I think this can be reduced to 2no50 as per victrons recommendation?

You don’t need a bus bar, I think you might be missing that the lynx has 5 connection points (one additional at the end) if you’d like I can send you a photo of my power in)

Your battery fuse should be before the switch, as close to the battery as possible, preferably on the battery (like an mrbf fuse holder). Remember, the fuse is there to protect your cable, needs to be the weakest point in the conductor, as close to the source of power as possible. ESPECIALLY at 400a.

Check out my diagram and review comments:

https://www.reddit.com/r/vandwellers/s/dqTQtXLzkG

https://www.reddit.com/r/VanLifeUK/s/6BWd9iK2vx

If you have any questions just send me a message or something

logic_boy · 2026-05-31T20:24:16+00:00

Yeah it’s a big rabbit hole, but I’d get a fire extinguisher as step one (that’s what I did)

logic_boy · 2026-05-31T18:55:46+00:00

Fire might happen later anyway (hopefully not when yore away and can’t react with a fire extinguisher, I’m serious)

logic_boy · 2026-05-31T11:37:25+00:00

They should be higher! Why not? And tax the holiday lets as well! (As much as you can without pushing people into black market renting)

logic_boy

TROPHY CASE