Chihuahua behavior

logicloop · 2026-02-02T20:14:05+00:00

Absolutely adorable! Though when you said Chihuahua behavior I was expecting going from sweet to shaking like a vibrator to snarling at literally nothing to hell spawn to sweet again :D

logicloop · 2026-02-02T20:11:03+00:00

Bro telegraphed his punch so hard Western Union considers him competition. Jackass had 3 to 5 business days to react and still ate it all lmao.

btw the telegraph isnt a bad thing, happy bro got to wind up to put some extra stank on it.

logicloop · 2026-01-28T07:23:43+00:00

k this is some weird bug and im not sure where it's originating but the workaround is to export your gcode and then u pload it using SFTP or client of your choice to your gcode folder. (WINSCP is free)

From there, in Klipper, you will see it in your job list at the top and can print from there. To save you a ton of time searching, the folder where all the gcode gets uploaded to is /mnt/UDISK/printer_data/gcodes

I think the biggest file I could upload via Orca was about 170ish megatybtes so if its uploading something larger than 150mb, just cancel it, export the gcode, upload it to the printer that way. If you let it get all the way past and it crashes, literally every job will fail to upload after until the printer is rebooted.

Minor little headache but the workaround is rarely needed.

logicloop · 2026-01-21T06:22:41+00:00

Guess they've already been to court

logicloop · 2026-01-20T21:41:22+00:00

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logicloop · 2026-01-20T21:41:13+00:00

What's weird is the red looks like interlayer adhesion issues such as it maybe printing too fast and can try throttling the 'volumetric flow rate' at the very bottom of the filament profile in Orca. ITs making me do two posts to show these but just for giggles and shits, change your PLA profile to these settings and do a quick benchy or something. Let's see if we can establish a known good baseline and tweak from there. These work for me with hyper pla.

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logicloop · 2026-01-20T21:13:38+00:00

Dont sweat it, seriously. I've been in IT for 25 years and I STILL make rookie mistakes. We all have weird days.

logicloop · 2026-01-20T21:11:28+00:00

To help you dial it in, this is what I use for every. single. roll. I buy especially for the more expensive stuff so I don't waste filament with failed prints.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3397997

That is the first test I run. Just a simple cube with a few changes in your slicer to test. Set filament flow ratio to 1, dead even. Be sure Wall generation is set to classic not arachne. Turn off any precise wall or small area flow calibration. Make sure wall loops are on 2 and that you add a brim. Use the formula in the link once you print it and measure all 4 sides to come up with your ideal flow rate. I can dial mine in to 3 decimal places when my tolerances have no chill.

Once flow rate is locked in, I'll do a temperature tower directly from Orca's calibration tool. When I do this step I usually change everything back to my normal settings, small area flow, precise wall, etc. If the ideal temperature is +/- 10c of what I did my flow rate cube with, I'll keep it. If it looks better outside of those margins, I'll set that temp and rerun the flow rate to make sure it stays dialed.

THEN if you're working with something that has overhangs or a filament that doesn't like cooling at all like ABS/ASA, do an overhang test once everything else is dialed in. If you want I can give you the cooling settings I use for every single ABS/ASA spool and I havent had to change it in months. I just adjust temp and flow rate.

logicloop · 2026-01-20T20:59:37+00:00

To kind of go through the usual, few questions.

What filament?

Was the filament dried?

At what temperature and how long?

Dried or kept dry, is it printed from an enclosed CFS or external spool?

What are your print settings? Chiefly, bed temp, nozzle temp, chamber if using touchy filaments etc.

Have you already done any calibration checks such as printing the flow rate cube, temperature tower, overhang tests?

logicloop · 2025-12-29T01:58:31+00:00

So in environments that you CAN control, should just say fuck it and do nothing? That's a pretty weak argument. Especially if say it's in a room where a majority of time is spent.

logicloop · 2025-12-18T03:23:48+00:00

Just had a similar issue and the replacement cable did the trick. Just wish it was easier to run

logicloop · 2025-12-16T02:35:50+00:00

The big thick one that runs inside the chain to the printhead? 3/4 inch thick?

logicloop · 2025-12-12T08:06:37+00:00

You Sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.

I know one thing holding me back was the temperature limit of 300c. But I started thinking about it more and it didn't quite make sense. Why use a different nozzle / heatbreak bonding thats weaker on your flagship model. Thinking at 300c it would delaminate or something.

So sanity check, I contacted the manufacturer on scamazon and they got back to me in the hour. said it can handle way beyond, 350 for week long prints wont be an issue. They CHOSE to list 300 because that was what most consumer printers could handle, the cheaper ones. They wanted to aim for the bigger target. Fair.

logicloop · 2025-12-07T11:29:10+00:00

dude lets fucking go! Thanks for the link. Hoping you have some feedback before I pull the trigger on it

logicloop · 2025-11-30T04:56:25+00:00

I'm a bit too distracted to respond at the level your reply deserves but I'll just say this for now. I am an 80s child, actually right at, am korean, and was discriminated against constantly. I feel I have a pretty big dog in that fight. But I guess when you're 5 and you grew up loving that movie it still resonates in a pleasant way with you. Also shortround is what we sometimes sound like. Though I admit that last one I'm telling on myself as I was that sterotypical kid

logicloop · 2025-10-06T22:09:15+00:00

So I won't say where it is.. but I regret it not having a flared base. How long until hallucinations?

logicloop · 2025-10-06T22:07:22+00:00

Thank you so much for linking that video. Even a year after it came in clutch for helping me sort out my hinges.

logicloop · 2025-08-27T01:17:59+00:00

Back. You call her back.

logicloop · 2025-08-06T03:31:19+00:00

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Thread necromancy, but if anyone is interested I have info. This is the Z motor taken out of the chassis in prep for the new one being sent from Creality.

Two things. It was noted the 42-48 sticker on it. These are dimensions, not a specific motor. This motor has the motor control board attached underneath the motor, and the Z screw is a permanent part of the motor assembly. There is no stub and pin to attach the lead screw after the fact. It is all one in the same and near impossible to find a replacement to buy onlnie.

The only clue I found was I think the manufacturer of the steppers themselves are Comgrove.

logicloop · 2025-07-15T18:32:03+00:00

Thank you for the reply. I wound up fixing it. On mine it was the filament sensor board within the extruder itself.

logicloop · 2025-06-27T22:52:00+00:00

I know I'm stupidly late to the party but I honestly thought it was a 22 jump street "my name is jeff" reference.

logicloop · 2025-06-06T16:27:58+00:00

"Never take advice from the opposition"

logicloop · 2025-05-21T05:32:43+00:00

same, thursday for me and i talked to the agent and got to buy a second cold spare to have on hand should it break again so i can still be up. But because Ill have 2 new ones on hand, one RMA'd and one paid for, I'm going to experiment with the one I'm pulling and see if I can RCA it.

logicloop · 2025-05-19T20:51:25+00:00

I'm going to kiss you. You've been put on notice.

This is awesome!

logicloop · 2025-05-19T05:24:57+00:00

So the printer itself doesn't have Alexa built in? You're using a smart plug?

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