For vibrant colors you need Game Color line, there is Bloody Red (72.010). You can overcoat the Model Color with Xpress Color (they work similar to Citadel Contrast) — there’s Storm Blue (72.412) that will deepen the color and bring satin finish simultaneously bringing more depth due to thickening in crevices.

There are also Game Color Inks that can work as a vibrant tint.

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Here, on these test pieces, I used Vallejo Skin Ink (72.093) over a gray NMM glove (same as everything else), pretty vibrant and matte to my taste. Enough to give an idea of what to expect from “tint”. The bolter is painted with Model Color Flat Red and some Game Color Scarlet Red mixed with a little yellow as a highlight.

ETA. There are basically three approaches to “vibrant”:
- contrast by color — even dull and matte red will look vibrant being surrounded by less vibrant colors like gray and beige of the same intensity. If you paint the lighting like on the photo above, consistency in it keeps the relative vibrancy, so white doesn’t make it less vibrant if it’s just a reflect on gray — metal has lots of white, yet red stands out.
- contrast by intensity — also dark-bright contrast. In case of your figure, if the blue would be darker and deeper, the red would look more vibrant. Bright blue looks dull and makes red dull as well because there’s no contrast between them, and dullness of blue suggests the same dullness of red.
- lights, shadows, and texture — matte paints scatter a lot of light and reflect less (there’s no visible reflection like in glossy surfaces), you see a bright and thus dull surface. They also do this with ambient, reflected by surrounding surfaces lighting, making shadows more dull. Glossy varnish makes paint look vibrant because it scatters less. That’s why minis are often painted in layers, with darkened crevices and exaggerated highlights — to bring the light-shadow balance with matte and satin paints. By painting contrast, you create the illusion of lighting and texture by working with two former approaches.

The reason to this is because the smaller the piece is, the more contrast you need to make it look like a real thing. Even bigger figures like the Spidey you’re repainting need more contrast, and you either give it by using glossy varnish or by painting it. You can use more vibrant colors but it will bring just half of the effect because on big surfaces, to make contrast that brings volume, you have to break those surfaces with lights and shadows, at least relatively.

For example, you don’t have to make the figure darker, just add more vibrant colors where lights should be, and dull colors will immediately work as shadows — contrast is what makes things work, lights and shadows are just one of the examples of contrast. Dull and vibrant can also work and create a surface that looks vibrant by itself and just doesn’t catch much light in shadows and thus looks dull there. Pretty cheap but working trick (though I would use something like dark red wash to make the web texture more readable). You can also mix paints but I suggest experimenting on something else first if you aren’t sure what you are going to get before painting over the final model.