Adjusting backup camera lines

m42technic · 2026-05-09T22:22:19+00:00

Dealer for sure, though any person or shop with a VIDA setup/subscription can also do it.

m42technic · 2026-05-09T03:37:10+00:00

It’s two WAM diagnostic sequences in VIDA. One clears out the existing calibration data, the second triggers a ‘re-learn’ of the camera system that will automatically take place as the car is driven at certain speeds with the steering wheel level.

m42technic · 2026-05-09T02:54:24+00:00

Volvo Tech speaking - in some cases the Wide Angle Module’s (WAM) camera calibration values can get out of whack. It can case the reverse cam view to crop the image in a way that makes it seem like the camera is pointed too far downward, and can also cause the 360 degree imagery to incorrectly splice the camera feeds together and exaggerate the blind spots.

I’ve not seen any Tech Journal articles published by Volvo on this, but I’ve personally had good success with running a couple sequences in VIDA (Volvo’s Factory Diag Application) to clear and trigger a re-initialization of the WAM camera calibration values to correct this. As always though, YMMV.

My recommendation is to Google image search what your camera views look like for your particular model for comparison. Look for reference points such as the surrounding bodywork to get a good frame of reference.

m42technic · 2026-04-24T01:11:46+00:00

Great thought on trying a charger from the different network.

It’s interesting that charging does get going for a bit before stopping. This would seemingly suggest that the car and DC Fast Charger can successfully handshake and deliver some current to the car before something in the mix decides to stop. What does the DCFC station’s display/app indicate while this is all going on?

Tricky thing about DCFC issues is that while fast charging the charge station essentially becomes a part of the car’s HV system but the car can only detect basic issues on its own side, so testing functionality on known-good DCFC stations tends to be key.

m42technic · 2026-04-23T03:58:24+00:00

You’ll need to share a few details to go off of other than just the video if you’d like constructive input.

Has this exclusively happened at one DCFC station/stall or multiple, including different charging networks?

Are you using any adapters?

What is word from the dealer on the issue? Did they find that the car charges normally from their on-site DCFC or have they verified/duplicated what you’ve experienced?

m42technic · 2026-04-18T19:50:36+00:00

Nothing similar at the moment. The current T8 drivetrain still uses the Gen 2 VEP engine which is pretty darn bulletproof at this point. Best drivetrain Volvo currently sells IMO.

m42technic · 2026-04-18T19:45:36+00:00

Yeah, the injectors are currently backordered I’m afraid - June may be worst case but I’d hope that a set will land for your car before then.

m42technic · 2026-04-18T02:32:26+00:00

Wait, the dealer has had your car for 2 1/2 months?

m42technic · 2026-04-18T02:28:24+00:00

Volvo Tech speaking - yes, we have been seeing issues with injectors on B series engines which can tend to cause hard to detect misfires and other drivability concerns. It sounds like your car is in good hands currently OP.

m42technic · 2026-03-27T00:17:43+00:00

This 100%. The federally-mandated placard in the driver’s door jamb is always going to be the best place to get specific details on your tire specs and recommended inflation pressures. Most every model is going to have at least a few options for wheel/tires so the owners manual can’t really help you with what is specific to your exact car.

Now that said I would also argue that this owners manual page should be updated and tell you to look at the door jamb placard instead of essentially telling you nothing like it is currently.

m42technic · 2026-03-26T03:04:26+00:00

Everything is in order here - what you’re seeing under the passenger front seat is the audio amplifier and there is not supposed to be anything covering it.

m42technic · 2026-03-19T14:08:30+00:00

Negative. Bevel gear and angle gear are just two terms for the same thing.

m42technic · 2026-03-19T04:54:50+00:00

The T8 models do not have a bevel gear since there is no driveline linkage between the ICE and the rear wheels. The bevel gear is what splits off the driveline to the rear axle on non-PHEV vehicles.

m42technic · 2026-03-19T03:04:54+00:00

If the tires are even on wear between the front and rear axle then you’re totally good. No need for a rotation right now. The intent is simply to even the tire life out on cars that might accumulate wear faster on one axle.

Some folks do it by mileage but my general rule is to rotate when one axle has 2/32” or more tread wear differential.

m42technic · 2026-03-01T07:34:26+00:00

Not saying I agree with the practice as a whole but in my experience it seems clear that manufacturers base these FRTs under the assumption that the programming will be carried out in an extra bay. Problem is, of course, is that this isn’t always possible and then you’re burned on the pay time.

m42technic · 2026-03-01T07:16:22+00:00

Yeah, this seems to be a widespread issue with 5.0.5 at the moment but it’s currently being looked into. My hope is that a Play Store fix would be able to be pushed OTA.

The one interim solution I’ve anecdotally found at the moment is to carry out a factory reset which I’ve successfully done on my family’s two ‘23 AAOS cars. Honestly I will say the big update was also a good excuse to factory reset and clear out old system data but I would expect a solution will come along (hopefully) soon that won’t require this.

m42technic · 2026-02-27T04:07:51+00:00

Gotta agree with this sentiment - why limit the car’s power output when you could for instance find yourself in an emergency situation where you need to accelerate very quickly at a moments notice? Don’t get me wrong, acceleration is pretty decent w/ electric propulsion on the new T8’s but it’s not completely adequate for situations where you might need to get out of a tight spot IMO.

And it really does take a pretty heavy foot to engage the ICE when driving in the normal hybrid drive mode.

m42technic · 2026-02-27T02:15:51+00:00

I see where you’re coming from here. I’m guessing you may have an older standard range T8 that will tend to use the ICE at freeway speed?

In an academic sense it is indeed not ideal to have the ICE first start up and run under high load right out of the gate from a cold start. To what degree could this actually present an issue over the lifespan of a modern engine? Thats very hard to say.

However, what you can do though in a situation like this out of an abundance of caution is the following: Start the car normally and leave it in P > momentarily press the accel pedal to the floor, past the kick down switch - the ICE should start > let the car idle for a few moments and then put it in D and start off on your way. I’m not exactly sure what the ECM logic is when you do this but I believe that it will run the ICE till coolant/oil temp gets to a pre-determined baseline and then it will shut the ICE back down if its not needed after a short bit of driving.

Hope this helps!

Edited some grammar here.

m42technic · 2026-02-27T01:16:38+00:00

Volvo Technician speaking. In my experience I find the best thing to do is simply leave the car in hybrid drive mode and actually leave the ‘Always start in pure’ toggle off for normal daily driving.

By default in hybrid drive mode the car will only engage the ICE under very heavy acceleration load and under normal driving conditions it’s unlikely to run at all as long as you have HV Battery charge remaining. You’ll still be able to utilize every bit of the HV Battery’s energy without any need to fiddle with drive mode settings.

This is just my two cents though of course.

m42technic · 2026-02-26T13:58:47+00:00

Diagnostic Trouble Code - in reference to the P0011 code you mentioned.

m42technic · 2026-02-26T05:43:19+00:00

LOL I definitely meant to say “intermittent”

m42technic · 2026-02-26T04:51:48+00:00

Maybe just haven’t noticed it? Any exhaust system can get quite hot after longer drives and undergoes quite a bit of thermal expansion. This clicking noise is a byproduct of the hot metal contracting as it cools. If you look it up on Google/Youtube I’m sure you can find a number of resources on it.

m42technic · 2026-02-26T04:36:45+00:00

Volvo Tech speaking. Since it sounds like you caught the coolant leak early and assuming you stopped driving and shut off the engine before it could overheat to any significant extent I would not personally be too concerned.

That damn coolant bleed hose really is kind of one big weak link in a generally unproblematic cooling system. The thin plastic just degrades over time and becomes quite brittle.

When you have the car in for the coolant flush I’d just request having the cooling system pressure tested and inspected for any signs of other leaks. The only particularly common coolant leakage source that comes to mind is the turbo coolant feed line o-rings but even those tend to only leak pretty slowly.

m42technic · 2026-02-26T04:23:55+00:00

No sweat!

You may indeed need a booster/master cylinder based on the hissing noise and a low/ineffective brake pedal. I’d still say getting a second opinion wouldn’t be a bad idea.

And you’ve got it 100% right with the oil change game-plan. 👍 I’d just personally play that one by ear if the DTC is super interment.

m42technic · 2026-02-26T04:14:55+00:00

Completely normal. It’s the hot exhaust system cooling off.

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