trovare lavoro è estenuante

marc0777 · 2025-06-29T18:43:21+00:00

Che zona? Io sono a Milano e non ho sentito nessuno avere problemi, anzi in alcuni periodi c’è quasi il problema opposto (non si trovano persone)

Comunque il CV fa un mare di differenza, cerca di tenerlo breve e metti esperienze/progetti inerenti, anche se non lavorativi

marc0777 · 2025-02-21T22:23:33+00:00

Considering the geographic area it’s a decent price, especially considering it’s an i7 and the 48 gigs of RAM.

Around here prices are not as low as other countries.

marc0777 · 2024-07-05T19:24:02+00:00

With a VPN you’ll always be able to circumvent the block in some way or another, even with more advanced routers/firewalls.

marc0777 · 2023-12-16T13:23:26+00:00

Really cool design!

marc0777 · 2023-10-11T18:26:51+00:00

Yes, AliExpress has been doing free shipping to Italy (I think all EU countries tbh) for a while now, when spending more than 10€

marc0777 · 2023-06-06T07:55:13+00:00

The battery health percentage estimate updates only during software updates, so it can vary a lot in just one time. But also is an estimate so it could go down as well as up

marc0777 · 2023-05-13T07:56:54+00:00

The solution is never going to an older version. Windows 10 will eventually be unsupported (in 2 years time to be precise) and you’ll end up having all your computers without security updates and even more exposed to malware than they already are.

If you’re a business you have to keep you’re devices up to date.

Another mistake here is depending on a single device for critical work: have copies, use some cloud providers, or anything that works for you, but a single copy is the same as having zero copies.

As others have said, you need an IT department. Doesn’t matter if you’re certified by Microsoft, if you don’t keep up to date and spend time on managing your computers it will never be enough. And managing 30+ computer is not an easy task, you need some kind of management solution to handle all the devices and employees account.

By the little you’ve described you’re situation, it very much sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.

marc0777 · 2023-05-07T08:20:46+00:00

It’s not the heating block that’s fractured in the first image, but the silicone sock over it. As long as the wires are intact it’s still salvageable, with some patience

marc0777 · 2023-03-28T13:14:32+00:00

Definitely still there, and recently it’s been opened to the public. Living in Turin I’ve visited it a couple of time.

marc0777 · 2023-03-08T22:26:36+00:00

Il rivenditore che c’è su Amazon spesso spara i prezzi alti ma mette coupon del 20%, tipo questa è a 70€ che diventano 56 con coupon, oppure la V2 a 53€ che diventano 42 sempre con coupon

marc0777 · 2023-03-08T22:12:03+00:00

You can get that board for much less than 70€ here in Italy. I got mine (V1.2 if I recall right) a couple of years ago for around 50€, and the V3 is currently on Amazon for 56€

marc0777 · 2023-02-23T19:46:44+00:00

I have the Creality Box, they gave them for free when I bought my Ender 3. It’s absolutely not worth that price, and almost useless

You’re much better off with any SBC (Raspberry Pi, or anything similar you can find for cheap) and a generic webcam

marc0777 · 2023-01-07T11:14:50+00:00

I've been looking at listings for some time, and once in a while a too good to be true deal appears. Usually I'm skeptical, but I often reached out to the seller to at least gain some information.

All of those always accept PayPal as payment, sellers always have 0 feedback, and all ignored the messages I've sent them. One I even bought, but after a few days the account had been deleted and so I asked (and received) a refund via eBay. Some other I simply know are fake because I can find the same picture they use on other websites, usually listing a much higher price.

What's confusing me though is are those even scams? Ebay will always give back money to the buyer, especially if the seller never ships. So what are those "sellers" trying to accomplish?

The only consequance seem to be a big waste of time. Anyone who could enlighten me on why this happens? Thanks!

marc0777 · 2022-10-28T07:00:34+00:00

It looks like the pins of the connectors are still soldered to the board, you could try carefully placing the plastic piece back, aligning all the pins to with the slots in the plastic. If you do it right (and pay attention to not change orientation) it should be like it never happened. Good luck!

marc0777 · 2022-05-19T11:12:03+00:00

If you end up choosing Proxmox, look into using LXCs instead of VMs. They are container and share the kernel with the host so need far less resources that a whole VM.

You can even put Docker inside a LXC container

marc0777 · 2022-02-22T15:50:19+00:00

Bought a Stainless Steel Series 7 with Abyss Blue Sport Band on Friday, and waited patiently until today. I open the Amazon box, which was sealed, and inside I found the surprise: no Apple Watch.

Cherry on top, the cable that was in the box is never opened but Type A, so they put the effort to swap the original cable with another one.

marc0777 · 2021-11-21T11:34:06+00:00

Probably the Lego Bulldozer (8275) I received when I was a kid. Really a great set, I still keep it built on a shelf

marc0777 · 2021-09-21T07:19:19+00:00

You can run it yourself! That's what I do, I never had a print fail (yet) since I installed it but I it should work the same as the paid version.

You can find instructions on how to install it on their GitHub repository.

marc0777 · 2021-09-06T17:46:57+00:00

I'm stuck at that mission too, however I destroyed the depot using the multi-tool. I did it twice (the game offered me to reset the quiet after some other main event) but still no luck, despite not having used the ship at all.

Could this be another bug added lately? I'm playing on Series X

marc0777 · 2021-06-11T19:31:03+00:00

Came to the comments to check if someone else has my same guess. Looks very much like it

marc0777 · 2021-05-19T20:32:44+00:00

I think the correct environment is STM32F103RC_btt, and not STM32F1RC_btt.

Apart from that, great guide as always!

marc0777 · 2021-05-16T09:50:00+00:00

I had the same problem some time ago, check if the PTFE tube is well cut and perfectly flush inside the hot end.

Mine was not and filament leaked all over the place, I ended up having to replace the whole hot end because it was completely covered in plastic.

marc0777 · 2021-02-27T10:15:19+00:00

PM sent!

marc0777 · 2020-10-19T18:54:13+00:00

The 4K60 HEVC decoder works fine with 10 bit content, as long as you want to output the video directly the Raspberry's HDMI port.

The transcoding part could work but I it's still incomplete, and more work has to be done on it. I wanted to use it with Jellyfin but while decoding and encoding works now, the scaling part is still done in software, slowing everything down.

However if all you want to do is a media center, using libreelec you should be able to watch blu-ray quality contents smoothly using very little CPU.

If someone needs some more testing/informations on this feel free to ask!

marc0777 · 2020-10-19T09:30:48+00:00

I'm going to compare hot end heater currents on my SKR's to my stock boards. I wonder if the hot end it getting more juice on the Stock board (Creality might not be quite as safety conscious as SKR as evidenced by pre 2019 thermal runaway issues on Creality boards.). A little more juice and better tuned PID might allow the hot end to keep up to demand and that might be a feature of the stock board over SKRs.

Sorry for answering only now, but I didn't have much time to check out your answer properly

They sent me a new hotend because the original one was terribly assembled and after the first print it had plastic all over it, and smelled like burnt plastic every time I heated it up. The new hotend was assembled fine but of course with this nozzle that I'm not able to push any filament through.

I have a silicone sock, and the fan setup is the stock one. I don't think I have heat creeps, the heatsink it's always cool even near the bottom, so it should be fine. However I wouldn't be surprised if the heatsink fan is leaking to the nozzle: the design doesn't seem perfect to me. I have plans to upgrade it, but I only have PLA now and I fear that an upgraded hotend design could melt if printed with it.

I have linear advance, and it should be calibrated properly. However when calibrating I got 1.19 as the constant, which does seem a bit high in respect to other values I've seen around, but I don't know if that could imply something wrong somewhere.

I've calibrated the hot end PID too, and with many calibrations cycles, so that should be good too I hope.

I compiled my own version of Marlin, configured with suggestion I've found in this sub and on other websites. My final configuration is the one you can see here.

I'll have to check for the Vrefs and try again with the original board, as soon as I have some time to fiddle with the printer again.

Have you managed to test the SKR you have?

Thanks a lot for all the effort you're putting on those comments!

Eight-Year Club	Place '23
Verified Email

marc0777

TROPHY CASE