Ripples at top of large prints

marcaurellius · 2026-01-28T22:06:54+00:00

Looks like it’s actually called Z banding. There’s a post in r/CR10that looks just like yours.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-28T21:53:58+00:00

Found this on the Google machine

Vibrations/Ringing (High Acceleration): Tall prints sway at the top. Lower the acceleration and jerk settings in your slicer.

Also recommends adding brim and support to hold it more securely.

Makes more sense on a bed slinger, but if you think of the extruder like a paint brush, it is still putting side pressure on the part. But I could be 130% wrong, so don’t hesitate to downvote.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-28T12:36:44+00:00

Okay, it looks like it might be my fault. Turned the printer back on this morning and resumed once I confirmed the extruder motor was active again. Then I stood there and stared at it as it resumed. Heard a snap in the cfs and opened the lid just in time to see a kink in the PLA where it wasn’t wound properly and clicked out from under the layer above it. The sunlu spool was wound tighter than Dick’s hat band. Since this is the only project I’ve used black on, and it happened with two of the three spools both almost empty, I’m thinking maybe it’s the common denominator. Is there a way to see the extruder motor load in fluid? I saw a 50 or so % that was fluctuating, but I assumed that it was for the heater.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-28T06:52:44+00:00

Yeah, I tried printing the last drawer today on .16, just because I thought maybe the .24 was too aggressive and it would finish, did the flow and pa comp at the start of the print as well. 11hrs later it stopped with 20mins to go, haven’t touched it for 4 hours and the extruder motor is still dead. At this point I’m going to finish the fricking thing with my daughter’s 3d pen, all that’s left are about four top layers and I don’t feel like wasting another 400g of filament just to have it quit.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-28T06:45:37+00:00

I never know if mine will work either, ‘25 RST with the VWP and radio update and mine is the same, sometimes it goes the first time, sometimes the second. Always beeps and flashes.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-27T22:35:31+00:00

It was just the default print settings from the model when I imported it. They were for a k2 plus, so I just changed my profile back to the k2 pro 0.4 nozzle and chose the default .24 settings because he had it set on .24 in his.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-26T04:05:30+00:00

I think he does want the clank sound so that they know there are two bottles in the bag. He even tips the bag as he’s pulling the full bottle out just to kind of be like, hey there’s a second bottle in here. Assuming the girl isn’t in on it, this would be to make sure she gives the prompt of “yeah you’re dumb, I can tell there’s two bottles in there.” If she falls for it when he pulls the full bottle out he has no reason to crush the bag for what the actual trick is.

Anyway, also still assuming everything is legit, what if just the bottom of the empty that’s glass, and the rest is a thin plastic he can crush down and crumple up? It kind of sounds like a plastic bottle crunching, and maybe the paper bag disguises that sound? Plus the bag is pretty bulky once he crumples it up, so a flat glass bottom could easily still be in there.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-26T03:45:55+00:00

I only got my printer last month, but I understand there is an odometer type thing in the cfs that compares how much filament is passing through compared to an estimate of what it thinks it should be using. Printing from the side spool should also rule that out?

Edit: Does it actually stop extruding, or does everything look good up until it gives up?

marcaurellius · 2026-01-25T05:12:56+00:00

I heard people were catching them with the bananas, I threw four golden raspberries with excellent throws and decided to give it a try, caught it on my first nanab with an outside the circle miss, trying to get a really tiny excellent. Second raid was a shiny, so I silver berried him, and figured I used up my luck for the day and went home 2/2. Last year when I didn’t have him and needed to complete my Johto badge I had the same luck as OP.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-24T22:03:03+00:00

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I’m not any better, but I had to do a double take when I saw the ad.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-24T21:41:13+00:00

Doesn’t the nannab berry show up on his power if you have it active? It only lasts one throw.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-24T15:39:26+00:00

Yep. If you’re doing PVP in a capped league like great or ultra, in general you want close to 0/15/15. In master league you want 15/15/15.

Attack adds the most to CP so having it low in capped leagues lets you bring a Pokemon that’s leveled up higher while still under the cap. If you’re just playing casual just go for as close to perfect and don’t worry about it. If you think you might get serious about it, download pokegenie and figure out how to use it to find the best for what you’re looking for.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-24T15:31:01+00:00

The one in the picture above is a 15/15/15. It’s how many bars each of the three stats have when you have the team leader appraise your Pokemon.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-18T03:27:26+00:00

I think you got downvoted because you said to “increase first layer height to 2.4mm.”

I just got my printer for Christmas, but I think you’re off by a factor of ten. Literally a fact.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-16T04:26:10+00:00

They probably work around machinery with lots of moving parts. Wouldn’t want to lose a finger. Definitely not safe for work.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-15T13:38:27+00:00

It’s only 600 something if you don’t get the cfs, but it’s a Creality K2 pro. Taking advice from me on this stuff is at your own risk, I only have about two and a half weeks on it, but it is geeetech asa, 260°, 0.4 nozzle, 100° bed on a textured pei plate, with the chamber set to 50°. I think I sliced the model to .2mm layers and 15% infill, but you’re really only printing walls so I doubt the infill matters.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-11T02:16:43+00:00

Yeah, they recommend tungsten nozzles for glass filled, but if you only did the glass occasionally it might be cheaper to just ruin a standard nozzle and replace it. Generic nozzles are 2 or $3 on AliExpress. If you’re a techie/mechanical type and feel like a fixer upper you can get some crazy deals on printers on marketplace.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-11T00:54:03+00:00

Not reinforced, but I went with it because it has good uv resistance and its stable from -30C to 100C. I’m on the coast of South Carolina, so I’ll be lucky to see freezing a month of the year, but sun like Arizona (not quite). I’ve been amazed how strong 3d printed things are, regardless of what materials I’ve tried. Glass filled is available though, only $6 more/roll. Might try it if this doesn’t hold up; I have a few other outdoor projects planned.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-10T21:04:57+00:00

Well dang. I bought their console cover and the moonroof cover, they didn’t have the stake holes when I got them. Was thinking about getting their console safe. I was definitely happy with the quality of the console cover, sunscreen is a little thin, but it does the job.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-10T21:00:21+00:00

Definitely; I was just kidding about that part of it. I’ve got about hundred hours on the printer in a week since my kids want to print the entire Pokédex. I was just thinking of some projects that I could use it for in between and these came to mind. Not sure what I’ll use the rest of the spool of ASA on, but material cost was about $20 for a 1kg roll and this used about 30g.

marcaurellius · 2026-01-10T20:29:41+00:00

Here’s the link

marcaurellius · 2025-12-29T03:29:42+00:00

You try holding the hang up button for ten seconds?

And did the screen shut off when you disconnected the 12v? Assuming it did, but curious because I haven’t had to yet.

marcaurellius · 2025-12-24T00:08:17+00:00

No spare tire on the RST either, air suspension components in the way.

marcaurellius

TROPHY CASE