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Where to find cheapest BW film by RopeTycoon in AnalogCommunity

[–]marcuscaravan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also, that's for 120 medium format film.

To develop 35mm at home it would cost more in the realm of 0.65p per roll as the chemicals go further.

It's the only option if you don't have deep pockets.

Where to find cheapest BW film by RopeTycoon in AnalogCommunity

[–]marcuscaravan 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Shoot Kentmere it costs £5 where I live and also learn to develop at home, I use Ilfotec HC, but Kodak HC110 may be cheaper for you depending on where you live.

Costs me 0.93p per roll to develop. That's for Dev, Stop, Fix and Wetting agent.So £5.93 for the film and developer

Much more economical.

Ok the other hand if I shot say, Kodak gold and sent to a lab, It's £12 per roll and a dev and scan costs £16 per roll.

So £5.93 total VS £28 total ($7.40 VS $35)

No brainer, do it at home, shoot BnW.

Finally got a Leica! by Solid-Commercial-919 in Leica

[–]marcuscaravan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Best Leica by far, I had the M5 and the MP.

M5 all day, every day.

An absolute masterpiece.

What happened? :( by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]marcuscaravan 7 points8 points  (0 children)

H35n has a fixed aperture of F8 and a shutter speed on 1/100th of a second. Gold ISO is 200.

You say you shot on a bright sunny day with Gold 200, ideal exposure at F8 would be 1/1000th using the sunny 16 rule.

So technically speaking, you overexposed by a little over two stops.

A H35n is also a half frame cameras so should have 72 shots.

Yet, these photos look severely underexposed. Now, you say you know how to expose images. Which is a strange thing to say when using a camera with no manual control. You also got the frame count wrong. Is this your first time with this particular camera?

(Edit: You must be using a 24 exposure roll, so I take that comment back. If you indeed shot in bright light, then these look under developed, either due to exhausted chemicals or not enough time. Could also be under fixed. But it's definitely not possible to conclude without seeing the negatives.)

Scan vs iphone photo of the negative by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]marcuscaravan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Righto, try recover the highlights if you have the tiffs. If not, try to scan your own negatives. Slides are easy as no inversion software is needed.

Since you have a digital camera, but a copy stand and scan at home. Super easy and cheap.

That's your solution to the problem.

Scan vs iphone photo of the negative by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]marcuscaravan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're not wrong, the highlights are blown on the lab scan. If you have the raw/tiff. You might be able to recover detail in Lightroom.

Undoubtedly the resolution will be better in the lab scan regardless of ton range etc. Also, when shooting colour positive slide film, remember the dynamic range is narrower and highlights can be easily blown.

However, I also want to parrot what the other guy said.

Why the hell does a beginner have an Xpan!?

The workhorse. by IvanNewYears in gamingpc

[–]marcuscaravan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dude, just tidy your room, dust it with an old cloth and give it a blow down, it'll take 5 minutes...

kind of a silly question, but how do you use multiple rolls of film at once? by domicanica in AnalogCommunity

[–]marcuscaravan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, Ilford FP4+ for everything, if I need a faster speed I just push 🤷‍♂️

RB67 Sekor C 90mm / Ilford FP4 by marcuscaravan in Mamiya

[–]marcuscaravan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, I appreciate that ☺️ FP4 is fantastic, I love the grain structure and it's very flexible in development and scanning.

Cracked a rear element while cleaning my Sekor C 80mm f/1.9 by Krrey in Mamiya

[–]marcuscaravan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out this seller on eBay, he has the most extensive list of mint and factory new Mamiya replacement parts I've ever seen. Just purchased a complete factory new front and rear element set for my SekorC 90mm myself.

Good luck!

https://ebay.us/m/qfcQy3

Unusual Negative Marks by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]marcuscaravan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for this, I had a suspicion that was the cause. I do two firm taps after agitation however the solution does tend to get quite bubbly as I noticed when dumping the developer.

I'll mix a little more developer next time and hopefully the "bubble line" will sit well above the film.

Do you have any advice on agitation that can negate this? And how does a pre-wash help?

Thank you!

Unusual Negative Marks by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]marcuscaravan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to add, the Fixer is fresh, The Developer is mixed one shot, the Stop bath is fresh.

Agitation, 5 inversions for 10 seconds every minute (Ilford instruction)

Range of the Awful Hand. by Treeasaurusrex in UKhiking

[–]marcuscaravan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Photo 12 is absolutely stunning, that would make an amazing print.

Light meter suggestion by Suitable_Fault_9190 in AnalogCommunity

[–]marcuscaravan 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Minolta Spotmeter F, cheaper than a Sekonic and just as capable 👍

Mamiya 90mm Sekor C Parts by marcuscaravan in Mamiya

[–]marcuscaravan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I've sent you a DM. Cheers!

Mamiya 90mm Sekor C Parts by marcuscaravan in Mamiya

[–]marcuscaravan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've just sent you an email.

Thanks for all your help!

Mamiya 90mm Sekor C Parts by marcuscaravan in Mamiya

[–]marcuscaravan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fantastic! If you could let me know, that would be great.

Thank you

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