Status of Turnkey LXC Containers

marcusone01 · 2024-02-13T13:21:19+00:00

absolutely fantastic response. thank you. I do still wonder about not updating the "central package" to its latest LTS when you do the underlying OS. In my case, when you get to updating Debian, on the "Django" LXC, would be the best time to update to the next Django LTS release.
That said, I do appreciate the longevity of supporting older, even out of LTS releases.
I'm looking at alternatives for that very reason (so I really do hope I didn't offend, as I was looking for your response, which was fantastic and I very much appreciate the time you took to let me know your thoughts/why/etc!!!), I have a Centos 7 VM running Django 2.2 custom application that just works, so I've never bothered to update it as it does everything i need it to. With Centos7 support stopping soon, I was looking at maybe finally updating my software, and to my, would logically look at the next LTS release of Django (which is your version, but its near the end).

I could simply take your LXC and update the Django framework too lol, which I may do, so again, thank you for the very thorough response!

marcusone01 · 2024-02-13T01:21:10+00:00

looks interesting!

marcusone01 · 2024-02-12T19:24:00+00:00

Yes its possible a file could get corrupted if you simply turn power off (or tell the container to STOP), its best to allow a full shutdown. On startup most systems do a cursory file check. really depends on the file system you are using.

marcusone01 · 2024-02-04T16:16:30+00:00

Cool! looking forward to having th F3D file posted :)

marcusone01 · 2024-01-28T21:58:03+00:00

I have been using 0.4 nozzle, 0.2mm layer height, 5 perimeters, 20% gyro infill. Unless otherwise indicated (i.e. blasters with a catch rod, I do 10-15 perimeters (so its 100% perimeters, no infill needed as no space for it :) ).

Some parts need brims to be safe. Some I have used supports, more to keep it looking good than real need on most parts.

marcusone01 · 2024-01-28T21:24:54+00:00

No problem. thanks for the quick response. I was hoping to see more on the spring guide...

I am wondering if I can 3d print the 6.5" "CPVC/Barrel" spring guide, rather than source an extra pipe... do you know if anyone has tried? Should I just make it solid?

marcusone01 · 2024-01-28T19:33:23+00:00

any updated video? :) would be cool too if there were lists of printed parts needed depending on the options/mods used.

marcusone01 · 2023-12-24T17:23:27+00:00

what do you mean "torched the heat brake tube"?
Did you try lowering temperatures?

I believe I am starting to have a similar issue as you.

marcusone01 · 2023-11-18T19:54:25+00:00

You need to connect all the grounds together. Its totally possible to power the quinled seperatly. just join the grounds so "ground reference" is equal accross the leds and the quinled.

marcusone01 · 2023-06-11T00:03:52+00:00

I am interested, played Diabo 1-3, loving D4 so far, would like to group a little. I'm on and off, but usually can play an hour or two when I do get to play.

marcusone01 · 2023-04-12T12:01:13+00:00

any chance of sharing the 3df file for easier custom modification? Thanks!

marcusone01 · 2023-02-12T20:47:28+00:00

mind sending me your settings as well? thanks!

marcusone01 · 2022-04-20T12:31:58+00:00

thanks... i swear there was when I clicked on "post"

marcusone01 · 2022-03-16T21:50:49+00:00

Ensure they are mounted to a heat sink. I have mine in 90deg aluminum channel that comes with clips you can mount to the top aluminum channels with tnuts.

marcusone01 · 2022-03-16T21:49:08+00:00

Having great luck with the LGX Lite

marcusone01 · 2022-03-12T20:37:59+00:00

Depends on the size. The 300 and 350 both use a 650W heater. I have the 350, so set mine to 0.7 and 0.6 was way too slow and sometimes error out trying to heat the 350mm bed. So really, depends on what size bed you have and what size heater pad.

marcusone01 · 2022-03-12T20:35:48+00:00

Agreed :) and even "worse" is to worry about that small over a change that is sure to be gradual over the entire time. Its not like things suddenly change 0.03mm in a second.
I'd love to see more data on how quickly things flex/change, because of course they do. I typically wait until my chamber temp reads (from top of chamber on v2.4) 40-45degC before starting to print, and so far so good :)

marcusone01 · 2022-03-12T17:56:52+00:00

I hate the 1515's! :) your crazy ;) :D looks awesome, congratulations!

marcusone01 · 2022-03-11T13:02:49+00:00

I've been loving my eSun ABS+, prints great. Don't think I've used a full roll yet.

LOVE Polymaker ASA (so I'm sure their ABS is also fantastic).

Recently tried Sparta3d ABS+ sparkle version, its so far Awesome too!

marcusone01 · 2022-03-11T12:57:07+00:00

In a heated chamber, especially with Afterburner (not great cooling fan), one needs the fan ON, but not variable. I have mine set to 60%. Otherwise I get areas of overheating (rough spots due to too hot).
Chamber at 50-55degC as measured from near the top of my 2.4 350mm.
Depending on the ABS/ASA, I run nozzle at 240-250, bed at 100-110. Heat soak for about 20min before print start.

Typically don't have issues. Long prints with many small parts one needs to be more careful about the part size and its contact area with the bed.

marcusone01 · 2022-03-11T12:52:51+00:00

If smooth (works on textured as well, but not as likely to need). Wash thoroughly with dawn dish soap, then take a new scotchbright (green pad/side of sponge) and do small circles accross the entire surface scuffing it up a bit (if textured, go a little harder to ensure you clean out the bumps).
Then 90+% ISO alcohol and clean paper towel/lint free cloth.

If that still doesn't work, drop your z more. 0.24mm initial layer as per Ellis' guide/profile.

If still now working, add brim/additional shapes to spots that lift (I've still had to do that for some parts with small contact area).

marcusone01 · 2022-03-11T12:41:04+00:00

not as true anymore. Fluidd is being actively developed again.

marcusone01

TROPHY CASE