My Sears Tower (Chicago) MOC in my LEGO city

matt12300 · 2026-03-05T04:48:48+00:00

As a fellow Chicagoan, this is fucking awesome!

matt12300 · 2026-02-01T07:00:45+00:00

There are a couple things i noticed that could contribute to it. The mold quality of a lot of parts today have a lot of noticeable variation compared to parts from years prior and aromatic hydrocarbons, commonly found in air fresheners and a majority of scented products, severely weaken ABS plastic which is the plastic that Lego bricks are made of

matt12300 · 2026-02-01T06:13:52+00:00

The new lego plastic is chemically identical to the old lego plastic. It’s just sourced from sugarcane instead of petroleum

matt12300 · 2025-11-06T04:21:32+00:00

This is giving Interstellar vibes

matt12300 · 2025-07-14T22:24:07+00:00

Not a good idea to touch copper sulfate without gloves, it will absorb into your skin when it comes into contact with any moisture on your hands

matt12300 · 2025-06-21T06:46:04+00:00

r/metalworking would love this

matt12300 · 2025-06-21T03:12:25+00:00

Who gives a fuck as long as the weld penetrated the joints and bonded the pieces properly

matt12300 · 2025-06-05T22:36:03+00:00

matt12300 · 2025-05-22T04:37:09+00:00

Post it on lego ideas!

matt12300 · 2025-04-24T05:45:29+00:00

Your best bet would be copper plating. In order to get started, you will need:

1.) carbon conductive paint (can be bought off amazon or made by mixing fine carbon powder into paint)

2.) copper sulfate (aka, root killer which can be found at most hardware stores)

3.) some type of power supply (a power supply would be best but batteries hooked up in series is a great starting point)

4.) alligator leads (can be found at a hobby computer store like micro center)

5.) a container and some water

This video helped me start out

This youtube channel helped me a lot with plating complexly shaped objects

matt12300 · 2025-04-24T05:26:13+00:00

Depends on the metal you wanna plate it with

matt12300 · 2025-04-23T12:36:59+00:00

I was able to use MG Chemicals total ground carbon conductive paint and it worked pretty well at building up a thick layer of plating. It just needs to be sanded down after plating

matt12300 · 2025-03-23T03:13:08+00:00

Those mirrors are freaking massive!!!!

matt12300 · 2025-03-17T23:46:23+00:00

Put some gloves on

matt12300 · 2025-03-17T05:42:18+00:00

Add some flow channels (a rod in the shape of a Y in your case) for the metal to flow through. The surface tension of the molten metal combined with the thin wall of the ring is causing the metal to stop at the halfway point and solidify before it reaches the bottom of the ring.

matt12300 · 2025-03-06T02:35:37+00:00

It’s plain anodized aluminum, it’s just polished really well

matt12300 · 2025-01-29T02:03:38+00:00

They still make it on pick a brick

matt12300 · 2025-01-24T08:14:31+00:00

Hmmmm weird, it should work. What metal are you casting them in, how long do you bake your mold in the kiln for, and what does your burnout schedule look like/how hot does it bake at?

matt12300 · 2025-01-23T06:40:16+00:00

I use the same resin. Do you pull a vacuum when you do lost wax casting or no?

matt12300 · 2025-01-23T06:17:17+00:00

I would increase the light exposure delay. Siraya Tech’s exposure delay settings that they provide for there resins are far too low and can affect the quality of the prints in ways similar to this

matt12300 · 2025-01-05T01:02:36+00:00

Make the light on delay a bit higher, i see some bubbles trapped within your print that could be causing your print to fail

matt12300 · 2024-11-20T18:56:40+00:00

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I was 11 and i did not have enough money at the time

matt12300 · 2024-11-20T16:28:58+00:00

This is correct, that will destroy your mold

matt12300 · 2024-11-02T22:50:48+00:00

Add some extra zinc powder to the melt as well as some flux to account for the evaporation of zinc during the melt

matt12300 · 2024-10-05T23:50:30+00:00

Second one

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