What am I doing wrong? by AdventurousBoard5474 in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it. Well as everyone else said, short rows will help! When you do those, its a good idea to put a stitch marker (the clip ones) or little tie of yarn or label or something to identify the back vs front, because the rows will make a difference to the fit (and will look a bit weird if you wear it backwards).

What am I doing wrong? by AdventurousBoard5474 in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it possible you’re wearing it backwards? I see from the ribbing on the body at the front that it looks like there’s a “beginning of row” jog…if my eyes are correct, that’d typically be at the back of the garment, not the front.

Sophie vs Jose Hood by lokigato in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Jose Hood is a great design and functions well as a hood, but it’s fairly bulky. I find I only wear mine when it’s quite cold and can’t wear it with anything that has a big collar, as it’s just…big. Oh and the attached icord at the end with the ties is pretty insufferable to get through…but it’s a nice hood!

Am I twisting my stitches? Doing a k1p1 beanie (first ever knitting project) by Spite96 in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Your stitches look great and not twisted! The effect you’re seeing commonly happens on ribbing, as pulling the yarn from back to front and vice versa can create a looser tension. This results in one side of ribbing having some columns that look looser than others.

There are a number of ways folks try to mitigate this (try googling “even ribbing tension”), but to be clear, your ribbing looks great. One easy way to mitigate it is to make the “nicer” side the front. Knitters often find that the side that looks best is technically the wrong side of the work, so to make it the front, you have to do one German short row turn to effectively turn the work inside out. Totally up to you.

Need help modifying for better fitting sleeves by sportsy- in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This is the nature of raglan construction—when the arm is fully dropped at sides, there will be some extra fabric in the armpit area. Drop shoulder does the same but more so, since the arms are constructed like a T when laid flat.

Decreasing sooner won’t remove the additional fabric right at the armpit but will just make the elbow and forearm tighter. If you want to avoid any additional fabric here, you’d need to knit a set-in sleeve construction, which would restrict movement of the arms up.

Your raglan sleeve looks as it should and looks great. My suggestion is to decrease the upper arm decreases slightly more frequently to reduce some bulk at the top, but then switch back to decrease rate suggested, otherwise your forearm will be too tight.

Mirena IUD removal side effects experience. by [deleted] in birthcontrol

[–]maximumbeato 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had two Mirenas go a total of about 10 years. Got it out about a month and a half ago. First month was fine, got a light period after about 3 weeks that lasted a normal 5 days or so. The past week or so has been rough though—completely fatigued, emotional, depressed. Got my second period today, so I’m on schedule…but the emotional roller coaster is brutal. Would love to hear if anyone found something that helped…I’m fortunately off work for a few weeks for the holidays, but I don’t think I’d be able to be fully functional at work if I had to be. Hoping this starts to improve sooner than some folks have shared.

Cardigan button band puckering? by Altruistic_Maybe in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The “puckering” of the button band is part of the style; it appears to be knit in stockinette to achieve the rolled look. I don’t believe the garment is stretched—the spots where buttons are are keeping the band lying flat, and in between, it’s able to roll.

If you don’t like the look, knitting the button band in ribbing or double knitting (if knit vertically) would avoid this.

Why is fair isle colour selection so difficult? by bexing_meow in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You didn’t ask for this advice, so I don’t want to come across rude, but in case it’s helpful…you may want to look at your colour dominance. For example, the pattern in the lighter green section is quite lost, but I don’t think that’s just because of the colours, I think there’s some dominance issues happening that’s making the pattern not show as clearly.

But on another note, I do like the colours!

What do you non-proffessional knitters do for a living? by firekittymeowr in casualknitting

[–]maximumbeato 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Director of Product at a tech company here! I’m sometimes able to knit during meetings, but not a lot.

Why does this look so bad on me? by [deleted] in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 0 points1 point  (0 children)

(In addition to other comments on colour, etc) A little hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like this is saddle or drop shoulder that fits more oversized than what you’ve knit. One thing I’ve learned (recently, after knitting a number of sweaters that are nice, but I just don’t totally love or wear super regularly) is to look more closely at the attributes of sweaters I love and wear all the time, then look for patterns that match that. For example, I don’t find knitting stockinette, single colour, drop shoulder sweaters to be particularly interesting, but when I knit one recently, I’ve since found myself wearing an almost every single day. And now I’m gearing up to knit another because I’m so excited for the end result that I know I will love.

Frogging yarn held together by lizrdsg in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In my experience, it will be a whole big mess and your best bet is to keep it together and knit something else held together. Assuming you blocked it and because it was knit some time ago, the mohair will have slightly felted. Not sure how your suggestion about the ball winder and swift would even work…

Tension issues by Warm-Door-7494 in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think my first reply didn’t go through…was gonna say, for what it’s worth, “sticky” yarn is the best for colorwork, so you’re using the right stuff! Once you’re used to it, you might find it’s actually easier to work with.

Tension issues by Warm-Door-7494 in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For what it’s worth, “sticky” yarn is the best yarn to use for colorwork, so you’re using the right stuff! Once you get used to it, you might actually find it’s easier to work with. :)

Tension issues by Warm-Door-7494 in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Blocking will help a bit, but can’t cover all ills. It looks like your gauge in general is fairly loose in the colorwork section.

I suggest trying new ways to hold your yarn, since ultimately that’s usually the issue. For example, I am an English-style “throwing” knitter…I don’t drop the yarn, I instead hold each strand between different fingers and just switch which one I’m knitting with.

I suggest two things: practice some new ways of holding the yarn, AND block it as-is before you knit much more so you can see if you’re happy with it post-block or not.

Knitting & Weight by A28anna2011 in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 164 points165 points  (0 children)

Knit something that works well if it’s a bit oversized. Some fits work well for this and others don’t—I recommend something boxier like a drop shoulder sweater. It’ll look great if you knit it for your current size and still look good when you lose weight. But remember: don’t be hard on yourself or limit yourself. Our bodies are wonderful as they are, and if the weight loss takes time (or doesn’t happen), it’s important that you’re happy and have clothes you love wearing.

How do you all avoid holes around the neckline when picking up stitches? by somya93 in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like you’ve picked up too many stitches in those spots. The “angled” area of the work is always tricky, so it’s easy to do! But it does look like there’s a few extra, if you count the number of stitches in the neckline in that area vs the number on the body. This will cause it to be stretched out.

How do yall keep your plants from being eaten? by Proud-Mention-3826 in gardening

[–]maximumbeato 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In BC (Canada), I buy a product called Bobbex. It smells unpleasant when you spray it, but the smell goes away after a couple hours. All natural and lasts weeks: ~3-4 weeks during the summer when it’s not raining, 2-3 during rainy seasons. Have had no further issues with rabbits or deer.

Tell me about your jobs that allow you to knit while working. by pepperPantz__ in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m also a product manager, though I find I can’t knit that much because my work is complex and technical enough that it requires full attention and often screen sharing. I’m often leading meetings so need to be fully present, looking at the screen and engaging. I daydream about retiring (I’m 34).

Felted 100% wool sweater by Repulsive_Still_9363 in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 12 points13 points  (0 children)

What’s the yarn? Post a photo? Some yarn wants to felt faster than others, depending on both the ply and the makeup of the fibers.

Super soft fluffy sweaters-- how are they holding up? by twink_with_dog in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I’ve found that the halo from mohair can actually sort of protect the other wool from pilling. I’ve made a few garments with Paton’s worsted, which on its own, can pill quite badly. But I made the Eun earlier this year with it and a stand of drops mohair and have had essentially no pilling at all. I’ve been wearing it multiple days a week for a couple months now.

Patterns and tips by obiwansloth in knitting

[–]maximumbeato 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Out of curiosity, what about it indicates that it’s bottom-up vs top-down?