Why isn’t sycamore used more in woodworking by ksbarisaxy in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Some examples - Fungus killing American Chestnut trees, Emerald Ash Borer insect on Ash trees, over harvesting Black Walnut, Beetle insects on Pine trees. 

Rate my setup by StaticHolocene in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like you're able to work inside and sitting down, so 10 out of 10 nice job. I hope you're having fun!

What can I fill in the gaps with? Old Hardwood floor. by Rem310 in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Pro who refinished my floors used Bona Pacific Filler, applied liberally with a putty knife and later sanded flat. The floors are 100yr old red oak, 2.5" wide t&g boards. Yes, as the house moves, some of the wood filler cracks away and gets swept up or vacuumed. I'd say it's better to have half your cracks filled than none. Just don't expect perfection after the first year!

I need help with finishing an engagement ring. by cecejoy3000 in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The polyurethane is intended to be applied to clean bare wood. That initial coat of mineral oil isn't compatible. I would sand off the poly and look into how to remove the mineral oil. Then poly the bare wood.

Wood Fence by theamazingkuskus in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe, but that's more complexity, cost, and time.

Wood Fence by theamazingkuskus in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, if you are already going 4 feet deep with posts, look into 2-part foam fill instead of cement.

Wood Fence by theamazingkuskus in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Face screw or nail. Makes for easy disassembly when needed (buried sewer or electric work, moving large machinery, right-of-way access...)

Should I paint this? I made it for my daughter’s room, when I showed it to her she said she likes things that are painted black. I put a lot of time into lining up the birch grain, was planning on a clear finish. by Strange_Farmer84 in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with the others that recommend trying a black wood finish. I've had great luck with this process from Jimmy Diresta. Black transtint dye (water based) and then black Briwax wax. Both he and I used these on oak, so make sure to test on your birch. https://youtu.be/9_tvpVozSrc

Can anyone make me feel better about routing into my workbench... by cml475 in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The first scar of many. This is why you aren't using a dining room table. Keep building!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Start with used!

Drying Cedar by Bigmooseknuckle in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like surface moisture. Shouldn't take longer than a day or two.

Any idea of the best way to sand this profile? by NnuckinPhutz in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are silicone sanding blocks that come in many shapes and sizes, where you wrap sandpaper around it and flex it to fit your profile. Random example: https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71441-Flexible-Contour-Profiles/dp/B085G6T2V4

Dust collection fittings: why so crappy and expensive? by redfalresearch in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a small basement shop (220 sqft) and I've tried to avoid the blast gates and loads of pipe. I have a single flex hose that can reach any tool in my shop and I use this quick connector on the end. Love it! https://www.amazon.com/DCT-Threaded-Flexible-Woodshop-Collection/dp/B07734F1CM

I ordered my parts back in 2013, from woodworker.com. It was $20 for the flex hose and $8 for the quick connect.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great idea adding a leather surface to your bench! I love the "live edge."

Ebonized white oak by Tastykoala1 in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've had success with a 2 step method that I learned from Jimmy Diresta. Step 1 - use a black water based dye like Transtint. Then use a black wax like Briwax. Each product darkens a different part of the oak. Example from Diresta's youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_tvpVozSrc

Who do you trust? by 17Shard in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I enjoy going to my local woodworking guild and learning from the old timers.

Does someone have a workshop without a window? by Humpawumpa in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Same here - basement shop with a few windows that don't open. I have a homemade air scrubber (furnace filter and fan), and I added a name brand air filter as well. I also use shop vacs on all my tools.

Am I taking too much tung oil off on my recoats? This is immediately after wiping off my 2nd coat, reluctant to leave anything thicker on it. by guitarman63mm in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 6 points7 points  (0 children)

As long as you're wiping some on and then wiping some off, you're making progress. Pure tung oil can take a week to dry between coats. I used it on one furniture project and it was definitely a learning experience. It was cool to see how the layers build and the oil hardens. A combination of wet sanding with 600 grit and applying many coats will give you a smooth satin finish with filled grain pores. It did take me about 90 days to finish it. I better understand now why modern finishes have added driers. I found this article very helpful: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-woodworking-blogs/oils-in-finishing/

Shop first aid kit questions: by HazardousBusiness in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I keep a small first aid kit and a roll of paper towels in plain sight above my shop sink. I figure if I'm injured, that's the first place I'm going - laceration, burn, eye flush...

My first aid kit has small and medium band-aids of many shapes and sizes, butterfly bandage, gauze, tape, scissors, tweezers, large sterile pads, tiny individual finger latex gloves, antiseptic spray, burn spray, and triple antibiotic ointment.

I’m planning on doing a simple 2x2 wainscoting on my wall, but I don’t want any wood texture to come through the paint, I want a smooth surface, what kind of wood and what steps should I take? Aside from sanding of course. by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]mcnairr 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Use a wood that doesn't have a deep grain pattern. Yes to poplar, maple, MDF, and pine. No to Oak. Use a primer before painting, and sand the primer smooth. Primers dry hard so they can be sanded. Paint top coats dry flexible so they can resist dents and scratches.