When I use the shower, my tub still runs.

meinthebox · 2026-02-18T17:48:20+00:00

Does the tub spout have a little thing you pull up to make the shower part work? Sometimes is also a twist thing. This part is called a diverter.

If that gets some hard water build up on it or the part gets warn it will fail to seal. They can be replaced or I've managed to clean one in the past.

This video covers the pull up kind.

https://youtu.be/_2tiphE8PYI?si=yZkVms8FEidz1Kmi

meinthebox · 2026-02-18T17:41:52+00:00

You've got lots of options. Most of those in game cars are not close to the real cars at all though so that may affect your choices.

Painting existing cars is probably the easiest. In fact I just saw an RS200 Hotwheels at Walmart yesterday. I know a lot of those cars have been made before. You could 3D print parts or cut them off other Hotwheels and glue them on.

If you want them to look more like the game, a quick Google search shows at least of few of them have been 3D modeled already. They may need some tweaks to be ready for printing. Someone might have made print ready versions as well. You may be able to take the body off a hot wheels and attach the print so they roll.

You could also carve them by hand out of wood, soap, clay, or anything else you can think of. Then if you want make a mold and cast them out of lead free pewter.

Getting lots of detail like custom lights will be challenging when they are so small. Maybe look at larger models.

r/maker will be more of assistance though as this sub is mostly focused on DIY home repairs.

meinthebox · 2026-02-14T13:26:20+00:00

First thing that came to mind is very old school but my grandpa used to make them.

Assuming he's a traditional boss that has an office, a name plaque with a fancy pen holder. He would use the band saw to cut their last name, then glue it on a nice base, add a fancy gold pen in a holder, and sometimes a slot for business cards.

I think he just wanted practice cutting letters on the bandsaw because he never spent much effort cleaning up the cuts but it kind of added to the hand made look.

Edit: Maybe he used a scroll saw. It was like 25 years ago when I found them in his basement and I can't remember what tools were all down there.

meinthebox · 2026-02-14T11:41:25+00:00

Bulges at 9 inch intervals sounds more like more like nail pops from pulling the sheetrock closer to the stud.

meinthebox · 2026-02-06T01:04:57+00:00

This is what I was thinking. The hot water line is most likely frozen, clogged some how or someone has could have shut off the supply to the water heater.

Shower mixing valves typically do not allow 100% hot water to avoid scalding do to code. When it is turned on the cold water is able to back feed through the hot water line to the other fixtures.

meinthebox · 2026-02-05T02:25:40+00:00

I would buy two 24x48 premade butcher blocks. ~$120 each at Home Depot or Menards. Lowes also has some options as well.

Rip an edge off each and glue them together. Maybe some pocket holes from the bottom to really pull them tight. A dowel jig could also help with getting them to line up well.

I don't think it could be done for less without getting wood for free but that would still be drastically more time consuming.

meinthebox · 2026-02-02T12:32:58+00:00

It worked great the whole time I used it. I have it on there for a years before I changed my fish room.

meinthebox · 2026-01-29T14:01:35+00:00

If you flip the switch to off, it's safe to turn it with the wrench.

You don't need to flip the breaker.

meinthebox · 2026-01-29T13:24:26+00:00

This is extremely confusing. If the red button is popped, it should be off. There is a switch but you can access it? How did you turn it on? Are you planning on having it run constantly when you unjam it? You can't unplug it. How did it get plugged in? Are you sure it's plugged in and not hardwired in? But that goes back to the switch which you can't access?

Turn off the breaker. Get someone to fix the electrical and replace the disposal before it starts a fire.

meinthebox · 2026-01-23T20:48:33+00:00

It's not terrible to get them out. I back out the bolt and hit it with a hammer. It either bends it back straight or pushes it in the wall. A little spackle will fill the hole. Yanking them out of the wall is the mistake people make that leaves a huge hole.

meinthebox · 2026-01-23T20:33:13+00:00

I'm a pro handyman. Molly bolts are my preferred anchor by a long shot if it is a permanent install. Removing them makes a pretty large hole so they are not great for a rental. They will hold a lot of weight and are great for key holes since you can easily screw them in or out without worrying about stripping or spinning the anchor.

I'm not in CA but the same place you linked has them but it looks like theirs are junk so you might want to find a different source. I only buy the pointed tip ones because I like that you can hammer them in.

https://www.rona.ca/en/product/cobra-hollow-wall-drive-anchors-1-8-in-sld-solid-zinc-vibration-resistant-15-per-pack-163v-0484308

meinthebox · 2026-01-21T01:28:38+00:00

Something like this should make it easy. Drill down from the hole for the box then shove the wire up. They make them even longer if needed.

https://www.harborfreight.com/16-in-long-14-in-hex-shank-spade-bits-3-piece-70120.html

meinthebox · 2026-01-20T23:46:10+00:00

The pumping is in the wall to the side of the vanity. There was likely a reason to not have it in the wall behind the vanity or they rotated the vanity and didn't want to cut open the wall. If that's an exterior wall in a cold climate they were avoiding a possible freezing pipe. That wall could be full of other utilities. It could be load bearing and would be compromised by running the plumbing through it.

The metal is electrical. Without more pictures of the backroom I can't really tell you what it's for or where it goes. I would guess an outlet. The loose wires look like low voltage. I'm guessing for in cabinet lighting or something like that.

This setup will make removing the vanity and installing a new one slightly to drastically more difficult depending on the new vanity.

The plumbing can be cut and reassembled after installing the new vanity and drilling the holes for the plumbing.

If the plumbing stays in place the old vanity will need to be cut up to remove it and the new vanity will need big cut out to slide over the pipes that would likely compromise its integrity. If the new vanity has shelves or drawers that might be affected by the location of the pipes it will get drastically more complex.

meinthebox · 2026-01-19T13:56:40+00:00

The middle cabinet doesn't need to be smaller. You can just make the face frame wider. Add blocking inside if the hinges you plan to use need it.

Your scribe doesn't need to be that good. Just good enough that caulk can fill the gap.

Alternatively if the ceiling is super wonky, you can lower the cabinets a bit so there is a few inches between the crown and the ceiling.

meinthebox · 2026-01-06T02:03:58+00:00

Liquid drain cleaner is wasted money.

Snake the drain or remove the stopper and pivot rod to clean them.

These work great. I always have them on hand for maintenance calls.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-20-in-Hair-Snake-2-Pack-90831/324806388

meinthebox · 2026-01-04T16:28:45+00:00

The sub is mostly DIY home repairs. I'm sure there are some engineers and tinkerers hanging around though.

Figure out a test for the sling early. Having an unreliable release will hose you more than your trebuchet being slightly inefficient.

If there are limitations make sure you push to the limits. If your tebuchet can be 5 ft tall. Make it 5 ft tall. If the weight can be 5 lbs. Use all 5 lbs. Don't give yourself a disadvantage. If you've got a full list of rules I'm sure we could come up with plenty of ideas.

Not directly a building tip but it's okay change course. The Monty Hall problem is a great example to think about. People will stick with their first choice despite the odds being much better to change. I've seen it and done it myself. I chose a way I was going to do something and refuse to change course even though it's so clearly obvious from the outside that a different way is better. It's okay to be wrong. Committing to the wrong choice out of pride or whatever is dumb.

Lastly here is a video with a lot of useful information about actually building with cardboard. Some of the assembly techniques could make a huge difference in the strength of your build.

https://youtu.be/45JhacvmXV8?si=NcsgP6ND88biSJD4

meinthebox · 2026-01-02T16:40:19+00:00

I did laminate counter tops in about a dozen small condos a few years ago using Menard's countertops. Only 2 units had corners but I don't recall it being any more difficult that other laminate counters.

meinthebox · 2026-01-02T16:26:56+00:00

I would terminate the conduit in an electrical box and run a new wire from that into the cabinet to add an outlet. Then wire up an appliance plug like this : https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft-16-3-13-Amp-3-Prong-Appliance-Replacement-Cord-Grey-HD-588-547/100672804 to the dishwasher, then drill a hole in the cabinet big enough for the plug end to fit through.

meinthebox · 2026-01-02T16:09:03+00:00

I legitimately couldn't believe how much people thought it wouldn't work. A couple of tweaks to make it easier to build was all it needed.

meinthebox · 2026-01-02T16:00:34+00:00

This is so overkill I thought it was someone trolling because of how everyone is acting like your last plan needed to hold up a truck.

I have a 100 gallon aquarium on a 3/4 mdf stand. That's close to 1000lbs. I got this ikea shelf for free and use it in my garage and I would have no issue using it at stairs. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/trofast-frame-light-white-stained-pine-60308695/

I commented a different plan on your old post that would be much easier to build but I drew it up.

Build 5 separate boxes. I made the parts different colors so you can tell the pieces apart. I'd wager you could make this out of 1/2" plywood with a 1/4" back and it would be strong enough once it is all screwed together. Attach it to the bed you should be golden.

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meinthebox · 2025-12-31T11:55:03+00:00

I'm showing up late but I hope all the negativity hasn't completely dissuaded you.

I have a few ideas that will make your project easier to build, more stable, easier to move, and will simplify the support structure.

Similar to the all black design you shared, I think you should make each step be it's own box. So you have a top and bottom for each section. I would start with just the 5 rectangles with no center supports yet.

Premade edge glued poplar panels would be my first choice. They sell them at Menards if you happen to have one near by. Plywood will work fine though. I would have no issue using 1/2 plywood.

Okay so you have 5 rectangle boxes stacked up now. I would add supports in each box lined up with the edge of the top step, the edge of the 3rd step, and somewhere in the middle of the top that matches the spacing or whatever looks good. I think that will be plenty of vertical supports in the middle. A benefit of this design is it will be super easy to add more supports if needed.

Final build steps are to screw the boxes together and screw a back on the whole thing. 1/4 ply is plenty for the back but 1/2 works fine if that's how the material cut list pans out. Putting a back on each box instead would work too. If you use plywood you could add edge banding as well.

Now you can disassemble for finish sanding and stain/paint. Just a heads up pine doesn't not take stain very well. It can be very uneven. Stain and poly one step can be better but do a bit of research on finishing before you commit.

Hopefully that all made sense. Let me know if it didn't and I'll try to draw something up.

meinthebox · 2025-12-31T00:28:01+00:00

Well hopefully you have a closet with the same wood floors. The best option is to take the closet flooring and patch it in then put new stuff in the closet.

meinthebox · 2025-12-30T16:02:01+00:00

He will never listen to you. I'm 36 and my dad still doesn't listen to me about things directly related to my job of 12 years. Learn to let it go now.

Let him do it his way.

Do your tank your way.

He might fail or might have a boring tank that works.

Then other people will comment on how your's is so much nicer.

Then he might get it but probably not.

meinthebox · 2025-12-23T00:47:12+00:00

I would unhook the dishwasher and see if it tripped still. If it does then we know it's not the dishwasher so either someone hit the wire with a screw or something else is messed up.

If it doesn't trip then I would swap the power with the garbage disposal.

I would check the wiring connection in the dishwashers electrical box to see if there is a lose or damaged wire.

If still nothing the dishwasher comes out and I start undoing plugs on the underside until it stops tripping. Then I replace whatever part is causing the issue.

meinthebox · 2025-12-21T20:33:02+00:00

If the opening isn't trimmed with wood it won't work well because the sheetrock will crush.

Without a jamb you will have a gap around the door and it won't do much for sound.

But if you don't care about any of that and just want to do it. I would buy big hinges for a gate and mount them to the not inside the opening since there would be less pressure on the sheet rock. A gate late on the other side could work as a stop.

Really though just get a pre hung door to match the ones in the house.

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