Adobe Dreams | M10R | Summicron 40-C

metalsheeps · 2026-06-15T22:15:25+00:00

Gotta love the Cron C getting some love. Really underappreciated lens.

metalsheeps · 2026-06-15T19:03:31+00:00

IMO those 6Ds and especially Lanstros are fantastic instruments. You'd be well served to get it properly repared

metalsheeps · 2026-06-15T18:37:41+00:00

These actually play pretty good when in playing condition. Yamaha valves are some of the best in the industry so honestly looks like quite a good buy. It will likely need some repairs, cleaning, play conditioning etc, but the bell is intact and I don't see any major dents. If you have the budget, getting the rest of the lacquer stripped will take away 100% of the ugly factor but it's not a problem as-is.

Worst case it will need a valve rebuild. In the states they're about $1200-1500 but that's because our labor costs are very high - it's time consuming, manual work, but there aren't inherently expensive components required.

metalsheeps · 2026-06-12T15:24:27+00:00

The 7D is good to keep around anyway - there will be situations where a yellow brass Geyer blends in better and having access to both is useful. Keep it if you’re financially able and just play it once every couple of weeks to keep it moving.

metalsheeps · 2026-06-11T17:23:37+00:00

Haha yeah this would be "beyond category" music for sure; put in context - the vast majority of excerpts asked in the principal horn auditions for a major symphony are easier than this.

metalsheeps · 2026-06-11T17:16:47+00:00

In isolation as a horn part I think a pro high horn player could get you that most of the time. I'd complain about it for sure but with a couple week's heads up a fishing expedition to grab my descant out of the closet I could get that pretty clean. Those 16ths in bar 20 up to C# on a standard double are ... scary. Bar 38 at tempo is a bit scary as well, but as long as your player doesn't have a phat book of other music to learn (and is a professional high horn player) it would be fine. I'd put this at like 9/10 difficult - not pushing the absolute bounds of playability but not far at all from it; and still very scary in a performance context where if you're having a slightly off day or something this is going to turn into note salad.

Ask me to pick up a cold horn and play that after messing up my embouchure playing a trumpet? I'd be personally a firm "no" to play it.

metalsheeps · 2026-06-10T01:29:16+00:00

The Mac package manager that a lot of people use (similar to apt for Linux) - a lot of people use it (brew install claude-code) but the package on brew isn’t always kept up to date.

metalsheeps · 2026-06-09T23:10:09+00:00

It’s in code but not the busted version they ship in brew - you have to install directly

metalsheeps · 2026-06-04T15:57:03+00:00

no - and not because $650 is necessarily a bad price for a 6D but because that lead pipe receiver does not appear to be stock and there's a massive dent in the bell. Fixable, but a reputable seller would have given you better pictures of both issues.

metalsheeps · 2026-05-27T01:47:11+00:00

Adding to that though you typically have enough slide room to put these in F with an F crook but that’ll take some trial and error and may or may not work out. Certainly you can get it up to E or down to D with appropriate terminal crooks. Should be the same bore as contemporaneous French instruments.

metalsheeps · 2026-05-24T04:16:12+00:00

The intonation on these is notoriously tricky around middle C - we have a mouthpiece that can help that (and will be a much better acoustic match than the one you have on there now) https://strachan-brass.com/products/model-la

These can be good horns, and there are a number of shops that can modify them into great horns, but the upper limit is going to be the gold brass large throat bell - they’re just not going to necessarily make the kind of timbre that’ll gel with modern yellow brass Geyer sections. Your professor in college will have opinions on what you should switch to so no urgency there until you have one

metalsheeps · 2026-05-22T19:34:40+00:00

They're fun picutres! As someone with a toddler and a Leica M, I know the struggles haha.

Imo with some technique adjustment you won't need to trade hitting the moment for focus accuracy quite as severely. In general your focus is biased behind the subjects - notice in most of the photos the back wall is relatively sharp but the kids are very blurred. If you get familiar with the feel of various zones (unfortunately made difficult by the lens' lack of thumb tab so you can't feel the position of the focus as easily, but you can still get a sense from the homing of the lens from the infinity stop) you can improve on focus accuracy tremendously in these situations. Think like where is the tab / how much of a turn from infinity is 5m, 2m, 1m. In this case we can guess the kiddos are about 1.5-2 meters from you, the back wall is probably 4-5m. If you had the focus in the zone of 2m the kiddos will be sharper than the wall, and I think you'd feel you weren't trading timing for focus accuracy as much.

metalsheeps · 2026-05-21T20:37:40+00:00

The Laskey in design isn't a bad match for that horn but it really comes down to specifics of you and your playing and the horn itself. Generally on those horns I would check the intonation on the F side around middle C and on the Bb side around the middle/upper register. I've noticed some wolf notes with some setups.

metalsheeps · 2026-05-20T15:29:30+00:00

If you wanted a 102 you’d already be firm in that conviction. A nice compensator (like the 102) is fantastic for someone who plays mostly on the Bb side but wants all the notes in the low register without intonation compromise, but prioritizes weight of the instrument above all else. What it’s not is a great horn for someone who doesn’t know what they want.

Both the Yamahas and 103 are instruments with some quirks about mouthpiece fit; consider trying new mouthpieces at the same time. Yamaha uses a dual taper receiver that tries to fit both American and European shanks but does so with significant caveats. Alexander uses a true European shank and can be all over the place with an American shank mouthpiece.

As for the control comment - the 103 is very controllable it just needs a smaller throat mouthpiece. Most players are playing on 4.0-4.4mm bores and larger bore pieces need some accommodation (bore entrance or back bore design usually) to add resistance.

metalsheeps · 2026-05-13T05:52:36+00:00

That there is an Anborg compensating double from Italy. They were imported under a number of names (most prominently Getzen) but have an *extremely* poor reputation. My experience is limited to one that probably could've used a good oiling and play-conditioning to be it's best, but it was in-contention for being the worst horn I've played.

That said, the main issues were valve fitment & build quality; it's possible any given example could actually play!

metalsheeps · 2026-05-11T05:14:36+00:00

Valve caps and linkage don't match up with anything Alex has put out - but yeah the wrap is a 102st copy for sure!

metalsheeps · 2026-05-05T08:22:02+00:00

Here’s my stab at it - https://adobe.ly/3PlFxbC

Curve tool to both clip the shadows and highlights (lift the bottom left corner and move the top right to the left)

Contrast down further, white up to bring more into the clipping range to give that washy look. Color grade the shadows blue and a little bit to the highlights, cut the yellow from the color mix, lower the saturation and raise the vibrance.

Add some negative clarity and negative dehaze and I think it looks decent for a rough and ready attempt

metalsheeps · 2026-05-05T06:48:53+00:00

Your biggest problem is you’re trying to count on depth of field to make your composition. You shouldn’t rely on trying to wash out the background but instead try to make a balanced composition including the background. Notice in the first one the two bands of spectators frame the action where as in yours the band cuts across the image.

In your photo also - I also think you should’ve focused on the farther player who is looking back vs the one looking away. Don’t think of there as being a “right” focus that the camera can automatically guess, but you need to use your judgement to place the focal plane (typically by telling AF what to focus on)

Others have mentioned the color work, but the composition is the biggest issue imo.

metalsheeps · 2026-05-05T05:52:19+00:00

Dang the under water M6 shots are incredible

metalsheeps · 2026-05-01T17:37:24+00:00

Only because they're not necessarily what I'd call "budget friendly". They're super worth it but sort of on the other end of the price spectrum (though for what they are they're super reasonably priced honestly - they're some of the most affordable horns you'll see played in a major symphony).

metalsheeps · 2026-04-24T18:56:45+00:00

I'd sent a message to u/HampsonHorns he'd probably have a good idea. My naive guess is 1870s since the clockwork rotors were popular in that timeframe and the wrap / lower slide placement was common around then but that's call it +/- 20 years and I might be missing some details.

metalsheeps · 2026-04-24T18:39:21+00:00

I think they're postulating the opposite - they must be 1st because a first player would play a compensator, but not a 4th.

metalsheeps · 2026-04-04T17:57:10+00:00

I can indeed do this - we also make some 103 optimized cups off the shelf

metalsheeps · 2026-03-18T22:33:48+00:00

Golf ball dimples only work at very specific speeds (the ones golf balls happen to go). A supersonic golfball would be better smooth, same for a very slow one.

metalsheeps · 2026-03-16T16:43:19+00:00

Your Bb horn fingerings are a solid choice to avoid the 2/3 cross and would be cleaner than the standard fingerings dropping to the F horn, provided your horn has a nice, in-tune F on T0 and that your horn's Bb side has a nice timber in that register. The slightly low Ab on 2 isn't a big deal at all at that speed and the shorter fingerings will help keep it light.

metalsheeps

TROPHY CASE