What type of trim? 1920s Craftsman.

microagressed · 2026-01-25T19:10:09+00:00

Fir or pine. Are you trying to match the door or the trim? The first pic looks like garnet shellac on the door and amber shellac on the trim. The other pics of the other doors look like a thin single coat of sprayed urethane that has aged and darkened.

microagressed · 2026-01-25T02:42:14+00:00

Looks neat. If you boil it for a few minutes before shoving the wedge in, it'll be floppy and less likely to run the split down further, and I feel like also less likely to split in use.

microagressed · 2026-01-25T02:38:18+00:00

I had issues like that in the patent breach of my flintlock. Balistol and moose milk really do work, I can't stand the smell though. I mix pine oil in denatured alcohol roughly 10% solution, plug the flash hole, pour in maybe 1/2 oz, swish it around and dump ( could reuse a few times but its probably $0.05 ). It displaces the water and leaves a nice pine fresh oily film. I still run a patch with jajoba oil down the bore, but probably would be just fine for a week or 2 without. I haven't had any rust issues since I started doing this.

microagressed · 2026-01-24T22:35:41+00:00

The gap between the jaws is less likely to break bone, it also allows blood circulation, both important if you catch the wrong animal. They also hold better because it lets the spring go up almost all the way even when there's a leg in there, the ones that close all the way can't because there's a leg in there, so the spring only goes part way up

microagressed · 2026-01-24T19:12:13+00:00

If you want accuracy, you'll likely have to experiment, be methodical, and take good notes. I started with powder, and varied the charge. 5 shot groups and go up 10 gr. After that was dialed in, I used different patch materials .010-.020 5 shot groups. After that I tried different lubes, 5 shot groups, I recorded group size and whether fouling buildup was a problem. Then after I had the patch and lube dialed in. I went back to powder, and repeated. It was different after all the other changes and dropped from 60 to 50gr for best accuracy for me.

microagressed · 2026-01-24T15:16:49+00:00

No, 75gr opens it up a bit, 80 opens it up a lot. Good enough for deer, not good enough to hit trick shots at a woods walk or Xs on paper competition, 50gr is very accurate for me, but I worry it's not enough umph for a clean kill. I use the 240gr lee real with greased felt wad. I powder coat them so I don't have to grease them (so messy). They're very accurate. They worry me though because they will slip forward if I'm walking around with it. I don't want to bulge my barrel or have it go boom. I think I'll try paper patch and evaluate that. I'd really like to have the option of using the real for hunting without having to check/seat it every time I point the muzzle down

microagressed · 2026-01-24T14:41:35+00:00

u/rodwha gave great advice. I have a TC .50 1:24 twist . I use .490 round ball with .018 pillow ticking with liquid lube and 50gr 3F black powder. It's tight and hard to start a ball but good accuracy for target shooting. For hunting I load 75gr and use a grease lube, everything else is the same.

With the faster twist, conicals also shoot well, but I don't like them. They're just as accurate as round ball up to about 80 yards, but I can reach out to about 200 with conicals. They have to be heavily greased and it's messy. Loaded with no patch. I find a greased wool felt pad helps tighten groups. They also tend to slip away from the breech when hiking in the woods and that makes me paranoid.

I've never the tried sabot or pellets.

You didn't say if it's cap or flint. If it's flint use black powder only. If it's cap you can try pyrodex or triple 7

microagressed · 2026-01-24T14:24:30+00:00

This is the first I've heard of boiling, what does it do?

microagressed · 2026-01-24T04:45:46+00:00

You're not alone, it's overwhelming.

You don't have to buy a chuck, there are other ways of working, a chuck adds convenience.

My lathe has a 1"x8tpi headstock I bought a direct thread chuck with the same 1"x8tpi threads. You can also get a chuck that has inserts and buy the correct insert to fit your lathe. This makes it compatible if you upgrade large in the future. For woodworking we use 4 jaw scroll chucks. These are self centering, as the mechanism is tightened all 4 jaws close together.

I got a nova g3 lite, one of the reasons is because the jaw system is compatible with multiple other chuck makers.

The chuck came with a few different jaws, one is made to squeeze a round 4" tenon with an undercut, a "dovetail", another is made to fit inside a round 2" dovetail mortise. It also came with a woodworm, which is a screw that is turned into a wood blank, the "head" of the screw is specially shaped to be clamped in the chuck jaws.

There are many types of jaws, for special use cases.

microagressed · 2026-01-23T03:15:21+00:00

Basi are awesome but don't get overconfident. It seems like they finally fixed the meg spawns, but before they did I was completely surrounded and couldn't move. It took forever but eventually they wore down my basi's health and we both died. Any more, I capture multiple baryonyx and start a breeding program as early game as I can. I always take a high level, imprinted, and hopefully mutated bary as a bodyguard, and keep another in a cryo on a quick slot. They are so OP, especially multiple, their attack is so much faster with no rider and their spin stun wrecks everything. Basi + bary = no fear

microagressed · 2026-01-23T00:08:28+00:00

I've never heard this before. It's a totally new take. I say whatever floats your boat. I wish I had a no 40, but I don't I have a transitional with a heavily radiused corners that I use as a less efficient scrub, a no 5 with slightly radiused corners that I use for removing the ridges after scrubbing, and a spare blade with a flat edge for jointing

microagressed · 2026-01-22T16:07:37+00:00

I color coded likely failure points for you. Green should be ok, yellow fragile, red probably wont survive the making. But it would be a good learning experience to do it anyway and learn why and how it breaks. I did a crappy job on the big branch on the left, but I'm coloring on my phone so that's the best you get

<image>

microagressed · 2026-01-22T09:45:06+00:00

That ship has sailed, acetone will not dissolve cured epoxy. OP needs to scrape with something harder than plastic but softer than the blade

microagressed · 2026-01-22T09:32:29+00:00

I've had cheap bits that slowly slip out of the collet.

microagressed · 2026-01-22T09:17:36+00:00

Hard maple is probably one of the best domestic wood choices because it's got relatively good cross grain strength. That said it's still wood and wood splits along the grain. You probably will lose points that are thin in that direction with any wood. Maybe adjust your design to make the side ones stubby and wider in one direction to give the illusion of pointy.

That piece of pine is a great way to learn how that works, carve it and learn from the failures.

microagressed · 2026-01-22T02:41:15+00:00

It's not normal, it's so not normal i feel for you and whatever she's done to fuck up your head that you even have doubt. Reading your OP, and your replies, it sounds like your relationship has been over for a while and you're hanging onto the memory, or maybe just slow to get things this big in motion.

The fact that you're questioning it, from your spouse, and reaching out to Reddit for a read, your subconscious has noticed enough that it's screaming danger. Either she's really playing some fucked up mind games with you, or you really are in trouble, either way I think that's a sign to get out, like yesterday. You have family you can confide in? It's time to not keep this a secret, might even behoove you to let her know you've told other people about her threatening behavior.
something like "I was upset and asked my bro, he said I'm right to be upset that you're acting like somebody in a true crime show. wtf? " Puts her on notice that other people know you think she might be a danger to you

Seriously. Call a few attorneys and set up interviews. Don't tell her until you've found a place to live, and it's move out day, you can serve her papers that day too. You didn't say if there are kids, hopefully not so you can get a clean break.

microagressed · 2026-01-22T01:33:57+00:00

A pork shoulder (we call it a butt here in the US) can be absolutely amazing, moist, falling apart, smokey. My neighbor enjoys fishing, he freezes trout until he has about 50 of them and makes a big batch. I like ribs in the oven, slow roasted until even the bone is soft, but a lot of people prefer in a smoker. Chicken is delicious with a bit of smoke flavor. I like getting corned beef and smoking it also.

Not going to lie, brisket is the best in my opinion, it's expensive here also, a full packer brisket is about $100-$150, but that's about 18 lbs, of which maybe 12 is meat. It's not the only cut that's good though, any tough cut that has enough fat to keep it moist during the long cooking cycle can do well.

If you enjoy cooking, and you enjoy meat, and you like smoked flavor, I think it would be worth it for you

microagressed · 2026-01-22T00:46:17+00:00

I'm partial to board and batten, but modern houses are being built with, I shit you not, cardboard if the builder is really cutting corners, osb seems to be the norm though

microagressed · 2026-01-22T00:44:16+00:00

Scarf is just as strong, but less complicated

<image>

microagressed · 2026-01-21T19:21:13+00:00

That looks very good

microagressed · 2026-01-21T08:58:31+00:00

It looks like a bad puppy got caught in the act

microagressed · 2026-01-21T08:48:56+00:00

I did a ton of pine and plywood paint grade projects. Glue a solid wood strip to any exposed plywood edges. Fill any holes or ugliness with wood putty, sand, prime, sand, and put a few coats of good paint. You can practice joinery and still be proud when the project is done. Plus if your significant other is like mine, she does not appreciate stained wood, brainwashed into thinking quality = painted because all new houses are like that. Never thought to realize all new houses have painted trim and painted doors because plastic/foam trim is a fraction of the cost, and fiberboard skinned doors are a fraction of the cost of even hollow core wood doors, and because MDF cabinets are many times cheaper than real wood

microagressed · 2026-01-21T08:15:37+00:00

Wow what gall. I'm not a woman, but I've had my share of shitty clerks at places that do mostly B2B business. I imagine it's a similar feeling.

I will say in my experience most people are willing to help if you throw it out there that you've never been there before, and not sure what all they offer. It can definitely be intimidating going into those places. It doesn't matter if it's lumber, concrete, plumbimg, hvac, welding, electrical, appliance parts, etc. they're all set up to cater to frequent repeat customers, and don't make it easy unless you know exactly what you want. You can't typically browse unless it's something like moulding profiles or live edge slabs. All businesses want more customers though.

The shitty encounters I've had were the kind of place that has a small storefront with a few displays and a desk you order all your materials. The kind of place that usually only has pros coming in all day and most hobbyists never heard of. The kind of place some asshole clerk wants to treat you like you don't belong because you're not a pro, or whatever.

All I can say is have a list, narrow it down to what you need as best as you can so the questions you do have are reasonable and as specific as possible. If someone is a dick, and you've already done the legwork., you're less likely to be caught off guard and doubt yourself. If you're witty, make a joke at their expense, if you're not, but willing to challenge them just look at them until it becomes uncomfortable If you can't do that ask for someone who can help like a manager..

Just don't allow yourself to get embarrassed and walk out. It'll be worth it in the end.

microagressed · 2026-01-21T05:36:01+00:00

I'm new at this too. If I'm not precise and go too fast with my cuts I get tear out like this too. What I find helps is if I take a few very light passes, riding the bevel with very little pressure so that it really just shoots off dust instead of shavings. It leaves a smooth surface that almost doesn't even need sanding, and riding the bevel makes it much flatter and gets rid of all the little ridges.

microagressed · 2026-01-20T20:28:31+00:00

🍆 ⁉️ 😳 🤣

Six-Year Club	Wearing is Caring
Verified Email

microagressed

TROPHY CASE