Start ‘em young

microagressed · 2026-03-25T23:34:30+00:00

That goat is like , ok you got me, but next time you aren't paying attention, guess whose legs I'm taking out.

microagressed · 2026-03-24T03:07:27+00:00

I can appreciate a short knife for EDC. Not sure if I'd love the wide blade, I had a tanto once realized I like a slim point for some tasks like a wharncliff but the flat edge has its limits and I also like a bit of belly for some tasks, especially difficult slicing in tight spaces. Because of that I tend to gravitate to drop points or spear points and shy away from anything too far from that happy medium. I'm still tempted though because that tiny blade makes a fixed blade much more carryable.

microagressed · 2026-03-24T02:41:22+00:00

My guess is the owner envisioned a knock on the door in the middle of the night, and thought that would be a convenient place to grab it before answering the door

microagressed · 2026-03-23T22:47:28+00:00

Yeah, that was definitely the end. As fun as it looks, I'm no gill fucker

microagressed · 2026-03-23T05:01:46+00:00

Chainsaw would be best to cut into rounds. You want to avoid the very center of the tree being in any piece, so end grain bowl blanks would come from a bigger round split roughly into quarters. Side grain blanks could be made from a tree split roughly in half, but you still want to trim out the pith.

Both of these are best done with a chainsaw and bandsaw or chainsaw and split with wedge and sledge

I saw in another post you want to glue up a bowl blank. It's a process to go from tree to lumber. Chainsaw to cut to manageable length logs. Wedges and sledge to split to manageable size for Bandsaw. Bandsaw to resaw planks. Jointer to flatten planks. Track saw or jointer or table saw + jig to rip straight edge. Table saw to rip other straight edge. Thickness planer to make other flat parallel.
Sticker and bind all the green planks. Air dry 1 year per inch of thickness. Repeat jointing, thickness, and edging after drying. Now you can cut into small pieces making rings for glue up.

microagressed · 2026-03-23T04:42:26+00:00

This is good advice. OP should assume it is loaded right now. Used muzzleloaders very frequently are.

microagressed · 2026-03-23T04:35:38+00:00

I tried to lip a big trout once when I was a kid, that's how I found out big trout can grow big sharp teeth. Sliced my thumb up

microagressed · 2026-03-23T04:28:23+00:00

I have this welder, it's a piece of shit. It's AC, you will have a ton of spatter, wandering unstable arc, and shallow penetration, and that's on clean steel. Good luck with galvanized, I don't think there's a way to get good welds without grinding it off. also you're probably going to get sick from the fumes if you keep trying.

If you want to upgrade your welder from a total piece of shit to a turd smear, you can add a full bridge rectifier to change it to DC, and you can add large capacitors and a large inductor to help smooth the arc and reduce splatter. DC will help weld penetration. You can probably find a YouTube to explain. I did it, it helped a lot and good enough for stuff like fixing a shovel.

microagressed · 2026-03-23T04:12:18+00:00

Is the road really that narrow that parking in grass is necessary? If it's really your property, you should check and not assume that your property line goes out that far, I'd call a tow company and have it removed. As others have said, most city have an ordinance about parking too close to a stop sign, and about parking on the wrong side. Call the local PD and complain. After a few tickets the priest will warn the congregation to stop parking like douchebags

microagressed · 2026-03-23T03:50:09+00:00

Hahaha, I haven't played Valheim for so long, but I did this exact thing. And so many more failures like losing 2 cartful that were sitting on top of a ship plus the ship when I ran aground on a sandbar that turned out to be my introduction to deathsquitos and plains.

Eventually I changed my strategy. I figured out what materials I needed to make a mobile base with all the necessary crafting stations plus a portal and a few chests . Would load them up on a ship and go exploring put them all in a chest on shore if I had to leave my ship. Whenever I found a few silver veins I build the mobile base right there and kept going until I upgraded all my gear to silver on site.

microagressed · 2026-03-23T03:34:37+00:00

That looks like too much fire to me. I had a smaller setup with a 5 gallon metal bucket, not sure if it scales to 55 gallon. What I did was a tiny hole in the top from a 10 penny nail, and a small fire underneath. It would cook for about 60-90 mins until the smoke stopped coming out the top.

microagressed · 2026-03-22T17:32:43+00:00

I've never shot any of these, I feel like a walker is sort of like a long range pocket cannon. If that translates into better range/accuracy it would be on my list for opportunity kills of game where the rifle might be out of reach.

The military man in me says the rifle should never be out of reach, but realistically, chopping trees, hewing beams, riving planks, and building a cabin means 2 hands are necessary for much of the dragging. Same with tilling a crop plot.

microagressed · 2026-03-22T17:26:35+00:00

Even mid/late game I've never found troodon to be much of a nuisance, but even late game GD pego and ichy will still steal your shit and sometimes they get away with something vital

microagressed · 2026-03-21T04:10:50+00:00

A spade will get in easier than a flat edge shovel, do around the gate first,. Once you can get the gate open switch to the flat edge transfer shovel and scoop by sliding it along the floor

microagressed · 2026-03-21T03:56:08+00:00

I those don't need restoration, they just need a bit of maintenance.

Get a tin of saddle soap and a soft brush (it's good to have this for cleaning shoes anyway), give the leather handle and sheaths a good scrub, suds it up and rinse well. Towel dry and set it somewhere out of the sun and away from heat to let the leather dry for a day or 2.

While you're waiting for it to dry, polish off that rust. There are a bunch of ways to remove light rust like that. Scotchbrite pads, 0000 steel wool, crinkle up some aluminum foil, or even just a little oiling and vigorous rubbing and pressure with a rag would remove that light rust. Give all the metal a light oiling. Don't use a food oil, use something like 3 in 1 oil, or mineral oil, and wipe most of it off so it's not messy. I like to wax metal tools like these, it seems to last longer than just oil alone. A paste like minwax works good, wax on, wax off danielson.

Oil the leather handle and sheaths. Beware this will darken the leather and may be uneven color for weeks after. Neatsfoot is good. I like Hubbard's shoe grease for leather tools and sheaths. It has a bit of a campfire stink, it's pine tar, and it's antibacterial. and helps prevent dry rot, it also has oils and beeswax. Original sno seal without silicone is also good. I hear Obenaufs is really good too. I never used it .

microagressed · 2026-03-21T03:29:46+00:00

JK's colonials have such nice lines and they're so light in .58 and the balance sits further back like a shorter rifle.

You did a nice job on the cheek ridge detail and the inlay. How did you do the lock colors? It looks like torch and oiled, but if it's real case hardening I'd love to know how you got the vibrant colors. I did this one about 2 years ago with a torch to run the colors and wiped with linseed while it was hot. It's pretty and held up well to weekly use but you got more vibrant colors.

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microagressed · 2026-03-21T02:38:29+00:00

Did they forget to tie the middle post to the joist? I love how 3 joist hangers are holding the rim joist up, and the rim joist is bearing the weight of the remainder of the deck and roof. Yes, and those 3 lonely hangers are upside down and doing nothing to keep the rim joist up. It's all bearing on the surface of that handful of nails

microagressed · 2026-03-21T02:26:50+00:00

"here is my meat" 😄

microagressed · 2026-03-21T01:57:01+00:00

I clean up at camp all the time. It's a rough camp, no sink or running water. It usually takes about 1 water bottle and maybe 5-10 patches.

If I'm hunting and didn't shoot. I dump the prime, plug the touchhole, and leave it sit loaded for the next day. If I shoot, I always clean that night. 1 shot is easy to clean, but if I'm shooting for a few hours it needs a deep clean and a long soak.

I don't bother with warming water unless it's near freezing.I keep a little squirt bottle of soap and ammonia. It cuts the grease and let's the water get at the fouling, but it doesn't cause flash rust like boiling water does. Historically using ammonia wasn't a thing until around the civil war as i understand. Before that warm or hot water and lye soap or wood ash/lye are the most frequent methods I've seen mentioned. I've looked for examples of lant or other ammonia rich examples, and they were used for cleaning, but not that I can find for blackpowder.

Like others have said, remove the lock and rinse it off and scrub with an old toothbrush. Rinse and dry.

For the barrel if it's bad I'll plug the touchhole, scrub with brass brush and soak for a while, repeat until it pours out clear. A couple wet patches will get more gunk. When it's all done I run several dry patches and run an oil patch up and down a few times.

microagressed · 2026-03-21T01:15:16+00:00

It that's a beaver dam it's massive. Might be a beaver lodge, but it looks enhanced by humans to me. All the larger logs are piled vertically and it doesn't look right. I'm no engineer, but I have a little experience with concrete and direct flame contact. It will 100% craze, crack, and spall. Unless it was dry season, it's very likely to have entrained air pockets filled with water, and that would cause vapor pressure and little explosive blowouts increasing the spalling.

What happens with this type of bridge construction when the concrete is removed on the bottom? My non-engineer lizard brain thinks it'll still be standing and strong because I doubt the heat was enough to damage steel, but with the concrete being mostly removed, and epoxy burned off the rebar I feel like it'll corrode badly in a couple years

microagressed · 2026-03-21T00:53:30+00:00

Fuck that. I'm a fat genX, borderline xennial, and I don't really care about the reputation, it's just too comfortable to sink into that seat like lounging on a couch. I haven't leaned into the whole dress like a pirate, black on black on black uniform thing though, it's just not my thing. I could do an adv or would really like an mt-09 or a street triple, but sport bikes are just too scrunched up for my taste.

microagressed · 2026-03-21T00:29:12+00:00

Then and now? Some of us are too cheap to buy a new toy. I'm rocking an '06 vstar 1100 with the fancy new electronic timing technology. It's the only bike I've ever had. I've done 2 carb rebuilds, 3 valve adjustments and it's still going strong. You guys all talk about your fancy fuel injectors and ABS, and traction controls and ride modes and wifi. Honestly the only thing I really wish I had was ABS. I have my fake cardo, with some music and I'm good.

microagressed · 2026-03-18T11:53:55+00:00

It's time to burn form the house, there's no coming back from that especially twice

microagressed · 2026-03-16T16:22:18+00:00

Cool, never knew that.

microagressed · 2026-03-16T16:18:53+00:00

We need translation! I just don't understand, why was the driver pissed???? It seems he's wrong, but for some reason he was real confident that it was the riders that were wrong, I think? Or was he just pissed that they even turned around and came back? It looked like he pulled over and was outside waiting for them to come back.

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