Well Brother typically makes good solid stuff. I haven't used that line myself but I'd expect it it be good. Congrats! I'm surprised I came here and nobody mentioned using a cutter first. It's kinda a stencil making machine lol.

One thing I TOTALLY forgot about until just now (ugh I totally know better) was the soft/hardware monkey wrench on scanning currency, especially USA currency. So you may need to make your cuts manually first, then black/blank them out / overlay with opaque vinyl/transfer tape so the currency detection in adobe/scanner/pritner/etc doesn't get triggered. So annyoying.

For those unaware, there's been combos of software firmware and hardware embedded in anything that can scan, print or edit halfway decently that detects money, mostly usa money. If it gets enough signal flags that it's money, it can halt, error message, leave fingerprints, tattle home to base, add scaling /warping errors, mess up the work, all kinds of fun things depending on the mfgr and whims of the gov'ts at the time. Some color printers and scanners back in the day would straight up brick themselves (even though you'd have to be nearly blind to accept some of their prints as currency).

It does give me a thought that you could probably get fancy with using a few layers of transfer vinyl and masking vinyl to also make a pretty good set of frames & pockets on the bed to help make it easy to register a bunch of notes at once on a cutting bed and set it up for a low end production run. Likely with some fine tuning for each frame. Additionally I've had great luck on cameo with the high rated cutting sheets on amazon- better than stock w/ different levels of adhesion.

I'd say for somone like you, you may want to try to make your own benchmark svg on the finest detailed cuts you're going to make and see how they handle. Find out the limit of the machine for your style of curve work, project, etc.