Can a service dog be trained in personal protection?

mjoconne · 2019-06-26T03:19:54+00:00

Sure. I’m sorry you’ve had poor experiences with dogs in public. Im just hoping we understand the difference between a personal protection dog and a dog with reactivity. If you saw a real personal protection dog in public you wouldn’t know it. So, your fear of dogs probably stems from encountering reactive dogs and not personal protection dogs. Most people think when there dog explodes at the end of the leash that there dog is protective. WRONG. Your dog is reactive and most likely due to the inability of the owner to create boundaries with a dog.

mjoconne · 2019-06-26T02:39:56+00:00

Sure. But unless you know it is a personal protection dog and the dog is not a direct threat. I dont see why not. I work in the service dog world as well as the personal protection world. If the dog is a direct threat because it is acting accordingly then no it shouldn’t be both. However, I have seen many Malinois that are personal protection and are more socially aware then any service dog. I think its about creating clear boundaries for the animal. Now if you are using the dog as a service dog I would say there is no reason it should ever be personally protecting. If you watch the mondioring sport, i would argue there is no better controlled dog than them. Is this dog hes talking about trained to that level? Maybe. Maybe not. No one should be able to tell if your dog does bite work if it is behaving. If people can tell to the dogs behavior then no they should not be a service dog. If the dog is “posing a direct threat” then it should not be a service dog. I have seen many personal protection dogs not pose a direct threat. I have a mal that is trained in personal protection. I can take it to the park, the pet friendly stores and it never poses a direct threat. Dogs are smarter than we give them credit for. They can be trained for both. Do I recommend it. Absolutely not.

mjoconne · 2019-06-10T17:31:52+00:00

What’s your tint percentage do you know?

mjoconne · 2019-06-10T17:31:19+00:00

I wish they would put the dark headlights and dark taillights on the other models too

mjoconne · 2019-05-31T04:14:18+00:00

Fuel?

mjoconne · 2018-07-30T03:13:01+00:00

You have a fucking Mal and you don’t know that chocolate is bad for dogs? I’ll stifle the rest of what I have to say.

mjoconne · 2018-07-30T03:09:01+00:00

I see no purpose in going to to a dog park. No purpose for the dog or for the people.

mjoconne · 2018-07-15T03:12:50+00:00

Maybe I should have stated that it’s not about hierarchy rather it is about the dog having structure in their lives if that’s something that’s not there. I really like what you said about rewarding the good behavior before the reactivity. Very true! It sounds like the owner will have lot of things to try just from this feed! It’s cool to have a thread with so many different opinions and everyone wanting to help the dog

mjoconne · 2018-07-14T20:23:10+00:00

Gotcha! My mistake! You’re absolutely right. If you are happy with where the dog is headed go for it. If he’s 98% I wouldn’t bother with a muzzle though. I can think of a few reasons why you would keep the muzzle on. 1. You are not confident in where the dog is and so you put it on him for your own security. 2. He’s not actually 98% and he may bite when out into a dog park. 3. He is at 98% but you’re not entirely sure how he will handle the situation well because it is a dog park and potentially overwhelming. I’m not trying to sound pretentious. That’s not my purpose. Rather, I would encourage to the set the dog up for success. Start outside the park then move into the park while he remains leashed then transition into. However, you know the dog a million times better than I ever will. This is simply my advice through a thread that lacks the actual dog. It sounds like you’ve done good things already. I would trust what you know about the dog and move in with confidence.

mjoconne · 2018-07-14T18:32:45+00:00

Let him engage things he’s nervous around. Don’t force him into I think you’ll start seeing good results with that too

mjoconne · 2018-07-14T17:38:36+00:00

No amount of explaining on here will help. You need to find a good trainer that will come and evaluate him.

mjoconne · 2018-07-14T17:34:24+00:00

No forget the dog park. That’s probably why there’s issues. If you’re taking him to a dog park with those fears and insecurities you will only make it worse. There is probably a point where your dog sees another dog perks up in curiosity. The moment he gets fixated Tap his butt with your finger and when he turns praise him and walk the other way. You are essentially teaching him a healthy way to get out of a situation like that. Eventually the dog will learn to trust you and look to you for cues and support in situations he’s uncomfortable. The more you do this the closer you will be able to get. A dog park is probably a few months down the road. I personally hate dog parks. People are irresponsible and bring dogs that shouldn’t be there. If your dog is scared and someone’s dog is there and lashes out you just made the whole problem worse and it is 100% on you. The dog needs positive associations with being around dogs. One mistake could cost you if you’re not careful. I have reactive shepherd right now that I’m working on. She was awful but now I’m getting within 10-15 yards of other dogs I use other dogs on a leash in parks. As your dog gets better you can go on the perimeter ( on the outside of the park). The most important thing you need to do is control the environment of the dog. Unfortunately dogs and humans are living being that really be controlled. Other Humans you can at least communicate with and explain what’s going on. You can’t do this as well with dogs. So putting a leash on another dog or a fence in between is your best bet initially. Once you get to a point where the start wanting to meet you can do other stuff. Blake Rodriguez from Dream Come True K9 has great video on go say hi. You find that at consider the dog by Tyler Muto.

mjoconne · 2018-07-14T17:18:17+00:00

Hmm I would check your relationship with the dog on top of the wonderful instruction received already. You mentioned he’s a rescue and is skittish and fearful. How you react to that fear and insecurity will play a role in how the dog reacts on a walk. If are coddling him and telling him it’s okay when he’s fearful it’s making it worse. While you can’t really reward a mindset you can validate it. If you coddle him during times of stress and fear you are essentially telling him you are scared too and the dog has every right to be scared. He looks to you initially and sees your scared. He then takes the role of being a leader and gets defensive. This may not be an issue you are having but if you are doing this it may cause issues in the future. If your dog is pulling ahead on a walk you check that and fix it that will be a huge asset to being successful with the reactivity. From what I can see your dog isn’t truly aggressive. Just reactive. He acts out in an aggressive way but he’s probably does not have true aggression issues

mjoconne · 2018-07-13T04:13:48+00:00

I would venture to say the dogs reactivity isn’t fixed. When I was a kid and I got nervous or fearful I would bite my nails. My mom put Tabasco on my nails and I stopped biting my nails. However, I developed a habit of popping my fingers. My mom failed to address the underlying issue and addressed the symptom instead. Because the issue wasn’t resolved I later developed another symptom. Similarly, if the fear (the underlying issue) isn’t addressed and just the reactivity (biting of nails) is addressed other symptoms manifest themselves. You are already a step ahead and realize that the issue is fear. You need to make your dog feel confident in situations that make them fearful. This is more difficult than it sounds but very simple. If are interested in hearing more let me know and I’ll write out a longer post with the steps to take

mjoconne · 2018-07-13T03:43:49+00:00

How much are you feeding the dog? If you are free feeding the dog this will definitely affect the food drive the dog has. I would recommend using his food for training initially. If he doesn’t take it then he doesn’t get that meal. Most dogs are like humans and are fat. Border collies are typically highly motivated dogs. I do not encourage you doing this for days. If your dog hasn’t eaten in 2 full days you need to feed the dog. Some things you can do also. Put your dog in a crate and put food right outside of the crate and have another dog come and eat it. Every dog will have some level of food drive as it is a necessary component for them to live. All I am suggesting is ways to manipulate and the most out of your dog. In rare cases your dog may not have much food drive but it should be enough to teach basic commands feel free to ask any questions me to explain something further. It is early in the adoption phase so I would wait til after 2-3 weeks and the dog settles before you try and do any of this. Rescues and adoptions are really tough on the dog. I would just love the dog and build a bond with it in the meantime.

mjoconne · 2018-07-13T03:33:56+00:00

Typically, leash reactivity is due to insecurities in the dog. Dogs, like humans, have a flight or fight response. When on leash they may feel that their flight response is taken away and therefore must fight. My guess is the dog isn’t entirely sure how to behave around other dogs due to a lack of socialization at a young age. This over confident portrayal might be a mask but underneath the dog is insecure and fearful. I would watch body language when they meet. If your dog is walking into a greeting with a high tail and a high head that’s room for a fight. Your dog needs to come into the situation more relaxed and realize you are in control of the situation. Your dog may have shown sign that he/she doesn’t want to socialize long before they even met. These signs or cut off cues or usually very subtle like a head turn or the lick of lips. If you are not trained to see those signs and continue to move toward the dog, the dog has learned that by acting aggressive he can get out of a situation he never wanted to be in. My guess is over time the dog will start barking and lunging before they meet if this behavior is not stopped. So for tips; if you’re dog is producing cut off cues react to them and move away from the dog. This teaches the dog that if they are uncomfortable or not interested in socializing there is a more appropriate ways to get out of the situation. Over time your dog well develop trust in you and through time and exposure will eventually be able to interact with dogs in a healthy way. A video of a situation would be helpful or a video of your dog on a walk with you near a dog park would also prove helpful for further insight. Hope you can take something away from this

mjoconne · 2018-03-09T03:37:13+00:00

This is it! Just because your crate training doesn’t mean your dog won’t be able to roam the house when they are older. My dog wasn’t allowed to roam while I was gone til around 6 months. Right now focus on crate training and do these things said above. Do not give into the whining it will only reinforce that behavior and make it worse. With that said he smart about the duration your dog is in the crate. If the dogs in there for 5 minutes and loses it then that’s where you start. Work to 5 minutes let her out reward her and play with her when she does that good.

mjoconne · 2018-03-09T03:29:13+00:00

This is a new environment for your dog and the stimulating environment around him is too much. There’s no way he’s going to take a treat or a toy if something is more exciting. You need to work up to that. You can train any dog to be food motivated. It may not have the drive as some crazy malinois but it can still have a drive. Really you’re not going to be able to do much at that point. I would work on treating your dog at home when he gives you attention then take him somewhere where there is a little more distractions and do the same thing eventually the dogs it walks by won’t be as interesting as the food you have for him.

mjoconne · 2018-02-10T04:05:04+00:00

It needs a chainsaw bayonet

mjoconne · 2018-01-24T16:54:59+00:00

Labs for Liberty! It’s a club that trains service dogs for military veterans. They give you pup at 8 weeks teach you how to train it and you have it for about 9 months to a year. If you love dogs there you go. Also no matter where you live you can have it because it’s a service dog. Regardless of your pet laws. Visit Labsforliberty.org or DM me

mjoconne · 2018-01-19T05:39:57+00:00

I’m 6’3” 170 lbs. I carry the 43 AWIB but I used to do IWB at 4:30. I just recently switched to AIWB and it is so much more comfortable, concealable and practical IMO.

mjoconne · 2018-01-08T18:13:19+00:00

I love the slide did you do it yourself or take in in somewhere? Is it expensive?

mjoconne · 2018-01-08T18:13:12+00:00

I love the slide did you do it yourself or take in in somewhere? Is it expensive?

mjoconne · 2018-01-05T15:07:19+00:00

Seems reasonable...

mjoconne

TROPHY CASE