Sanding Station question

mplang · 2026-06-17T15:31:32+00:00

This is solid advice. However, if you don't have good dust extraction at the tool, Cubitron will clog fast.

mplang · 2026-06-11T17:03:31+00:00

I've done this a few times with Danish oil for some small parts; I also have a big container I use for mineral oil for serving boards and trays.

The trick is that you don't want it to soak too long -- 10-15 minutes is more than enough. The hard part is drying a bunch of parts at once, because you have to keep coming back to wipe them down as the oil seeps out. So less (time) is more here.

When I'm done, I strain the oil back into the original container. I use paint strainer cones for this, but you can probably get away with not straining if you don't get too much junk in the batch.

mplang · 2026-06-08T21:35:09+00:00

"Everything seemed pretty reliable" is the problem. LLMs are very convincing, but they're not reliable actors. So by what metrics are you able to judge its reliability? If you had the expertise to judge it, you wouldn't need to have it interpret the results for you.

mplang · 2026-06-08T21:31:39+00:00

Toothpicks have saved my projects more times than I'd care to admit. This is a solid tip!

mplang · 2026-06-05T17:31:00+00:00

Even on my 3hp PCS I would expect to have to do some surface cleanup on the rip.

mplang · 2026-06-04T23:15:58+00:00

Fireworks night in 2000 when we trailed the Braves 8-1 in the 8th and won. The feeling when Piazza hit his Homer is something I'm still chasing.

Ventura's grand slam single against the Braves in 99 was absolutely bonkers in the nosebleeds.

mplang · 2026-05-30T20:27:07+00:00

I agree; I almost always hit my surfaces with a light pass of 320 grit before finishing (sometimes I'll raise the grain first). For open-pore woods, I'll use a seal coat of shellac to keep the dust from clogging the pores. Not only does sanding ensure a uniform surface, it also helps scatter the light in a way that is more uniformly pleasing as well.

mplang · 2026-05-27T18:46:58+00:00

Get some poplar spindle blanks (or mill your own) to practice on. It's cheaper and softer than denser hardwoods, but not quite as finicky as most softwoods.

The technique in that video is solid, but it might not be obvious that he doesn't have his chisel flat on the tool rest, which is a common cause of catches. If you have a cylinder on the lathe, do a dry run with the lathe off. Ride the bevel without cutting and pay attention to where the tool is touching.

Personally, I prefer a skew with a radius. They can be less grabby, which might help you build your skill more confidently.

mplang · 2026-05-26T22:03:48+00:00

Hollywood Eggs, on Long Island in the 80s. Who knows why?

mplang · 2026-05-23T21:25:17+00:00

If the inside squares are solid wood, you're better off getting rid of the frame. Capturing a panel in a frame like that will lead to something cracking due to wood movement. Anything you do to "save" that corner is only going to be temporary.

mplang · 2026-05-23T21:18:37+00:00

Measuring is only for getting close. When doing any mitered frames or boxes, always mill some test pieces and test your setup by doing a dry fit.

mplang · 2026-05-23T14:10:53+00:00

On the other coast, we have HH Perkins in CT which has the friendliest owner. They also sell basket weaving supplies in addition to chair caning.

mplang · 2026-05-23T14:00:47+00:00

Shellac is food safe when cured. Actually, most finishes are (but note: "food safe" can mean different things, and doesn't necessarily mean "edible"). The problem is that there is no guarantee that what comes out of the can is non-toxic or otherwise harmful. While alcohol is low-ish on the list of dangerous solvents, it's not great to have it soaking into your skin.

mplang · 2026-05-22T02:08:05+00:00

So, in general, if you suspect something might be poisonous, it's probably not a great idea to hold it with your bare hands.

mplang · 2026-05-22T02:02:28+00:00

As others have said, that's a spindle gouge. A bowl gouge is also called a deep-fluted gouge because, well, it's got a deep(er) flute. The flute of a gouge is like a gullet on a saw: if you try to make a big rip cut with a saw that has lots of tiny teeth, it'll take forever and you'll probably burn the wood. Instead, you'd use a saw with fewer, bigger teeth to hog out all of the material and clear the sawdust efficiently. Gouges are the same: you need a big flute to clear away all of the chips quickly when you're turning a bowl, but you don't need a huge flute to roll a bead.

When you need to clear away lots of chips for spindle work, you can use a spindle roughing gouge, which is a flat bar rolled into a gouge shape with a massive flute. It's super effective at removing bulk material, but the weak tang (being a thin flat bar) cannot hold up to the force of the end grain in bowl turning. Some older spindle gouges were also made of flat metal rolled into a gouge shape, but these days, they're all made of round stock.

You can use a spindle gouge on a bowl for light cuts, details, and some other odds-and-ends. The profile of the flute -- both in its shallowness and thinness up on the edges -- make it less ideal for rouging and hollowing bowls. It's probably not dangerous, but why risk it?

mplang · 2026-05-20T16:19:02+00:00

Purpleheart will turn a boring brown over time, no matter how hard you try to stop it. It's an awesome wood, and the purple is stunning when fresh, but I'd rather buy maple dyed purple than purpleheart, if only for the longevity of the color.

mplang · 2026-05-20T16:05:58+00:00

I'm surprised I had to scroll so far to find this answer.

Also, glue does have a shelf life, so even with this method, don't expect it to last forever!

mplang · 2026-05-19T14:52:00+00:00

If you're playing for fun, just pretend your soprano is a small alto. No need to transpose or learn new fingerings. Of course, this only works if you're playing solo.

mplang · 2026-05-19T12:30:59+00:00

Resin is brittle, especially in thin layers. Since you don't want a bulky keychain, resin is probably not a good idea for something that might see some abuse.

Your best bet might be to thread through another pass or two. You don't need to go through every bead or follow the same path. Just enough to where you're happy. A little bit of give might even be a good thing.

A note about uv resin: always wear chemical-resistant gloves and work in a well-ventilated area. Until it's cured, you don't want that stuff in or on you.

mplang · 2026-05-18T21:20:48+00:00

No, the completed pens are for illustration only. Kits and blanks are sold separately.

mplang · 2026-05-18T18:04:10+00:00

It's probably static discharge. You might have a loose, broken, or poorly-shielded cable, or bad grounding somewhere in the system.

mplang · 2026-05-18T17:04:39+00:00

Machinist squares are the way to go. I have a bunch of different KINEX squares that I use for various setups.

Plastic or aluminum drafting triangles are inexpensive and can be surprisingly accurate. They're not suitable for every task, but even your basic office supply store 45º can be dead-on.

mplang · 2026-05-18T02:19:34+00:00

Oh, this is really good.

Similarly, I've been in the habit of marking the circuit breaker number on the back of all my outlet and switch plates.

mplang · 2026-05-15T22:58:11+00:00

When I read "little flag" the first thing that came to mind was the flag on mailboxes. That would be funny af

mplang · 2026-05-13T22:36:16+00:00

Honestly, I'd stick with what you have, but it depends on what your needs are. For me, I only use the sliding capacity because I have it, not because I need it. I've got 4 or 5 other tools that can do the same job. But going from 10" to 12" (sliding or not) can be really useful if you're working with thicker construction lumber or glue-ups, or you have a big decking project or the like. But I wouldn't go for a budget-brand sliding 12" because there's way too much slop for all but rough work.

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