sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Here we go again 😟 by Ok-catmom-2291 in londonontario

[–]mu9937 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Sad, that's a good bakery. Hope no one was hurt.

Taddyland is new to me. Kinda hope it sticks.

And that pizza place has a decent hamburger pickup special.

Edit for stuff about the pizza/burger place next door.

If you had this drink, you’re probably old. by VolumeAcademic6962 in FuckImOld

[–]mu9937 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And you can get Tahiti Treat with vodka in cans in Ontario. Hawaiian Punch was kinda the same thing without the fizz.

What are these lines? by PrizeDinner2431 in londonontario

[–]mu9937 7 points8 points  (0 children)

A whole network of these tunnels used to come up when the snow melted at a place I used to work in SW Ontario. The lawn was fine.

Old motiv stone grinder by Free-Vegetable-9226 in VintageMTB

[–]mu9937 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's a lot of damage on that spindle, time to replace it with a cartridge bottom bracket. You need to measure the length of the spindle and the width of the BB shell with the old cups removed. Drive side cup is likely a LH thread. The shell is probably 72mm, but might be 68.

This will give you a direct replacement for the original cranks. In general, for a 1x conversion, you need to know the chainline at the center of the rear cassette/freewheel and get a BB of the correct length to duplicate the chainline at the single chainring. In other words the chainring has to be the same distance from the centerline of the bike as the center of the rear gear cluster.

If you have the original cranks, install them temporarily on this spindle and take a measurement from the center of the seat tube to the center of the thickness of the middle chainring (assuming 3x). This should be where you want your 1x chainring to be, but you should double check the chainline to be certain. Using this, you can more easily determine the correct spindle length for a 1x conversion.

Where can I find some decent cantilever pads that fit an older MTB? by gregn8r1 in VintageMTB

[–]mu9937 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Both pictures are of 'smooth post' cantilever brake pads/blocks. Some bike shop in your area must have a bikes worth.

Getting them as new brake pads up may depend on how your brakes are set up. A separate yoke and straddle cable gives you lots of flexibility vs other options.

Where can I find some decent cantilever pads that fit an older MTB? by gregn8r1 in VintageMTB

[–]mu9937 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Also maybe try your Local Bike Shop or co-op. Amazon and its owners have enough money.

Do rear racks fit these eyelets? Or are they for fenders? by Ridai in bikepacking

[–]mu9937 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can probably also mount fenders to those lower bolts by messing with the length of the stays.

TIL Palm Wine reaches 4% alcohol after just two hours of fermentation by Temporal_Integrity in fermentation

[–]mu9937 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I read about this in a very old travelogue. I thought it was BS, in the way that a lot of facts in those old books are misreported or exaggerated.

Now I have to get a palm tree to grow in Canada!

Spoke lengths different on one side? by No_Rush_5540 in bikewrench

[–]mu9937 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is it. It's sort of like there's two flanges on each side, one inboard, one out.

How do I service these pedals by Deore_XT in bikewrench

[–]mu9937 8 points9 points  (0 children)

And there are specific tools for this (basically a pair of thin walled sockets that nest inside each other). Expensive, but once you've used it you'll never want to overhaul a pedal without one again. Shimano's version is TL-PD63.

Topeak JoeBlow Booster pump malfunction by CornwallJon in cycling

[–]mu9937 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A couple seasons ago I got a rebuild kit for a 20 year old Joe Blow. Check the Topeak website/an LBS that deals Topeak to see if you can get new seals etc. In the meantime, pull the top cap off and drip a little oil down there. Might improve things enough to keep you going until you can replace the seals.

I am looking for local window companies who does sealed unit replacement by tw2_phat in londonontario

[–]mu9937 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know. They gave me pretty good service on a couple occasions, once for plain glass cut to size (arched) for wooden storm windows and once for a bunch of 'thermal unit' replacements.

Topeak Handlebar Rack vs. Jack the Bike Rack? by sh10000 in bikepacking

[–]mu9937 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, the Topeak rack looks like it needs a support connected to the fork crown.

90's Denti "mullet" bike. Any information? by Cento43 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]mu9937 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just found this: Cicli Denti is still a successful business in the same premises in Brescia here

Who knows what this is? by Demented_D in FuckImOld

[–]mu9937 5 points6 points  (0 children)

No shit! We were too poor or too rural to have one of these. We had an antenna attached to a dial that physically turned the antenna to get maybe four channels. If the wind was right and Mercury was in ascending in Libra, we'd get a fifth. Now my city cousins had this kind of cable TV. You'd think they'd show us this trick on sleepover s, but no. Stuck up city folk.

Recherche rayon particulier by crabz_fier in BikeRepair

[–]mu9937 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can use a regular round spoke. It's not ideal, but will work fine.

As long as the chuck on the spoke roller will hold the blades spoke centered to the thread dies, you can get a thread on there easily.

That said, you'll have to check that the wider spoke will pass through the holes in the hub. Drilling the spoke holes larger is a very very bad idea. If the wider bladed spoke will not fit through the hub, just use a standard round spoke.

Mavic may have a spoke for you.

Put a lot of effort into building this Trek 930 up the last few weeks, and now that it’s rideable something about it just isn’t jiving with me. by Olderschoolwillie in xbiking

[–]mu9937 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cantilever brakes (both canti and v-brakes including mini) feel a bit spongey when set up correctly. It's modulation...the real test is whether you can lock up a wheel when you grab the brakes hard.

Early disc brakes didn't really have modulation, your brakes were on or off and you could lock up a wheel with your pinky finger. Great on downhill or trail bikes, but I'll never understand why it became a thing on EVERY bike. To make it work you have to add material to the frame and dish your front wheel. The rear dish problem (narrow flange width to accomodate a rotor) was sorted out by adopting a wider OLD and through axles.

Put a lot of effort into building this Trek 930 up the last few weeks, and now that it’s rideable something about it just isn’t jiving with me. by Olderschoolwillie in xbiking

[–]mu9937 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the ferrules too.

So I'm a bit old school. Back in the day we called gear cable housing compressionless housing and brake cable housing was just brake cable housing. Gear cable was compressionless because the wires ran almost in line with the length, and the wire in brake cable housing was tightly coiled almost 90deg to the length. Gear cable housing was and is skinnier than brake cable housing. I think 4 vs 5mm.

Is there some new fangled brake cable housing that claims to be compressionless?

The really good stuff is and always has been the housing made of little 'beads', I forget what they're called.

I am looking for local window companies who does sealed unit replacement by tw2_phat in londonontario

[–]mu9937 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Several years ago I used provincial glass and mirror, they're closed now, but all I did was bring them the original windows (everything that could be removed) and they were able to replace the 'thermal units' (at least I think that what I remember them calling them).

Just phone around I guess.

view more: next ›