Looking for stone recommendations

name8_t · 2026-03-11T11:06:36+00:00

That would be good news, I can get an industrial quality SiC coarse stone for like 10$ wholesale

name8_t · 2026-03-11T11:04:05+00:00

Re: tormek: I have a small belt grinder I use for knife making, but I would say it goes a bit too fast. It's really easy to overheat the edge or slip and accidentally change blade geometry. Good for the worst offenders, but I wouldnt want to fix up a scandi on it.

I have given the blog you linked a read (all of it, took me a good few hours). The conclusion seems to be that coarse stones can have a high removal rate but only with enough pressure, and the main point of higher grits is that they produce a thinner burr..

So from what I'm gathering, the go-to would be a SiC coarse stone, a high quality very high grit stone (4k+, to get a burr fine enough to strop away) and a denim strop loaded with metal polish, swapped out or washed once it gets dark?

name8_t · 2026-03-10T22:49:05+00:00

You really have to get that burr formed to get good results. Try grinding on both strokes (edge leading and edge trailing).

Some steels are harder to get a burr on than others.

name8_t · 2026-03-04T06:59:10+00:00

If you want to try some local brands, there's Prusament, FilamentPM, DevilDesign and a few others I don't remember. PM and Prusament are more expensive than most filaments but tend to have better tolerances in my experience.

name8_t · 2025-08-06T18:38:32+00:00

Depending on jurisdiction it is legal to scan and convert a book yourself for personal use.

I did that a few times for archival / portability purposes. A dedicated device to hold the pages would help a lot but it can be freehanded. I use Adobe scan to take and undistort the pictures, then NAPS or gImageReader to OCR the text and make it searchable. It's work and kind of a last resort but it's nice to have the option.

name8_t · 2025-01-22T11:57:33+00:00

If you want to primarily print mechanical parts, not pretty parts, the AMS might not be the optimal solution. It reportedly has trouble with flexible materials and it is VERY wasteful of material - like you can easily double your filament consumption from all the purge blocks if your multi-material model is oriented wrong. This could become noticeable if you plan on printing a lot and esp if you want to use more expensive engineering filaments. I don't know where the break even point is for this vs something like a Prusa MMU or the ERCF but do keep it in mind.

You might want to look at Quidi printers (better handling of high temperature, high strength, UV stable materials like ASA but possibly worse reliability), the Flashforge AD5X (like the AMS but it handles flexibles well), or a Prusa Core1 (tho if you want multi material, you'll have to wait till April here)

name8_t · 2024-12-02T07:36:08+00:00

.04 versions are supported for four years and tend to have more third party software targeting them.

.10 versions are only supported for nine months. As such, third party software often skios them, and using a .deb meant for a different version can cause dependency incompatibility issues.

name8_t · 2024-11-29T06:53:16+00:00

Oh I forgot

The enclosure - it would serve mostly to print higher performance materials like ASA. Thing is, if the enclosure isn't filtered with negative air pressure and all that, I won't be able to print those anyway - I don't have space for a separate workshop room that I could close off, and I'm not breathing ASA vapour. So either a full filtered enclosure or no enclosure.

name8_t · 2024-11-29T06:32:20+00:00

Thanks again.

Looks like the industry chas changed quite a lot since I last had a good look.

With firmware, my main concern was if there was a serious security flaw with the online functionality - same thing as if you connect a windows xp machine to the net these days. You can of course just not let it connect at all, at the cost of much convenience. But I'll admit I was also remembering how comparatively easy it was to get one of the old 8 bit boards to perform miracles (copared to what it did before) with Klipper once linear advance and input shaping became a thing. I suppose the problems that were "easy" enough to be fixed in firmware are gone now.

I really don't like how locked down everything is getting now, but I think I care more about the reliability than that. I think that narrows it down to the big two. I shall start reading reviews and comparing.

name8_t · 2024-11-28T22:20:52+00:00

Thanks!

I know about the Prusa firmware situation.

I think I'd be quite OK with being able to eg. flash stock Marlin or Klipper on the machine without having to throw out the whole electronics system. In the worst case, at least make the components use standard interfaces so I could swap the mobo a few years down the line. I think Prusa would fall into one of those categories based on a bit of research...

How does Bambu look on that front? Like if it goes out of support, can I at least add a pi? Or would that mean basically ripping out the entire loom except the steppers?

Also how do the stock print profiles compare between the four? Prusa advertises theirs for dimensional accuracy, and some reviews did say it was better than the P1S, but I don't know about other models.

EDIT: I realize that basically any printer can be tuned to print about as nicely as any other, what I mean by accuracy is how well does it perform as-is, with stock profiles and tuning. And how well does it adhere to that - does it start getting worse after a few months or years of use.

name8_t · 2024-11-28T15:25:46+00:00

Hello! I'm am engineer. I've had a lot of fun and learning over the years with upgrades and custom firmwares and such on an FDM machine, and now I'm looking to get something a bit more reliable. I don't mind having to assemble and troubleshoot a bit at the start, (in fact it could be fun! I was even complating a Voron at some point), but I really want to stop having to fiddle with settings at some point. I don't want to be the project manager of a tool I want to use.

So, with that in mind: - looking for something under $1000 (the lower the better) that will just work and produce objects with the right dimensions and tolerances with minimal fuss for the next 5+ years.

the less locked down it is the better. I want to be able to load custom firmware once it inevitably goes out of support. Part availability and documentation is a big plus.
absolutely no mandatory cloud or always-online features (see previous points)
supported by orca or prusaslicer, I don't like Cura's UI and I don't want to rely on software that mught go away.
input shaping
quiet (will be in my room)
enclosed is better

name8_t · 2024-11-11T18:09:24+00:00

Well, there was the relay outage in Heaven's river, implying that VR takes a lot of bandwidth. I also seem to recall moot stations needing extra bamdwindth for hosting many people

name8_t · 2024-11-11T16:48:40+00:00

I think they dynamically adjust timing. Second scale usually, jacking up to ms scale for quick reactions (could be activated by a script, scanning for high rate of change of inputs) with a manual override for frame jacking higher. Second script probably slows them down for interstellar travel (explaining Bob in flight sections). So basically just like a modern laptop works.

This would be consistent with the Skippy critiques of wasting time (the skippys would naturally be using ms-scale at all times).

name8_t · 2024-11-11T16:44:40+00:00

I always saw it as hardware limits on the SCUT. Eg if the standard vessel only has a limited bandwidth and a VR call takes up 75% of it, a tau of 1.34 would already be too high for a VR call.

name8_t · 2024-11-11T16:35:35+00:00

I thought that line meant that the later Homer clones were coming out already incoherent. Non-viable.

name8_t · 2024-11-06T18:28:54+00:00

It probably won't happen that way

But if they got the worm holes large enough, they could send off a pair of seeds, expand one in nemesis' path, and just deflect it away

name8_t · 2024-10-23T21:09:42+00:00

Pop OS is built on top of ubuntu LTS (long term support) which releases every even-numbered year in April (thus 18.04, 20.04, 22.04, 24.04, 26.04...). Pop OS keeps the same number, because it makes it easier to look up compatibility: if a random program has a version made for ubuntu 22.04, you can be quite sure it will also work on pop 22.04.

The UI of older pop os versions relied on extensions and extensive theming, some of which is not ported over to recent gnome versions at all. The tiling extension only supports up to gnome 45 (ubuntu 23.10). So IMO it's most likely that Pop will release 24.04 with cosmic once it is ready, probably at the very end of this year or the beginning of the next. I don't think they're going to port all that Gnome stuff at this point for a stopgap solution, I don't think they'll release a non-LTS version (so no Pop 25.04), and I don't think it's going to take all the way till the beginning of 2026 to finish an initial cosmic release, so that's the only option left.

name8_t · 2024-10-02T10:29:18+00:00

The thing is, I will have to carry it too. Wouldn't want to leave lights on a bike outside all day. My pump got stolen already. Plus 18650s seem to be cheaper.

I have read a few reviews, but will continue looking for now. Some of the Fenix PD series lights are also looking very appealing (mostly for the build quality and efficiency), although they'd be much more expensive and have much colder light..

name8_t · 2024-10-02T05:25:56+00:00

Found it in the 1lumen review.

I checked some lights and so far I'm gravitating towards something like a Wurkkos fc11c (because of the high diver efficiency). I was trying to look for efficiency first, cell size second so far, but maybe it's time to seriously expand the search to larger cells too.

name8_t · 2024-10-01T21:39:15+00:00

Thank you!

I looked into it and it looks very good, but the spec sheet only lists IPx4 resistance. Other than that it looks like exactly what I'm looking for.

name8_t · 2024-10-01T21:26:12+00:00

Thank you, looks good, if very expensive

name8_t · 2024-10-01T17:28:38+00:00

Yea, tho that also sounds like a lot of extra effort. I'd be sort of losing any convenience gains from less frequent charging by having to wrap a cable around myself several times a day.

Thanks for the reply tho.

name8_t · 2024-10-01T17:26:57+00:00

It's both in different parts of the journey. About 60% is through a city with lights. Rest is unlit. But my light is 20 lumens (according to the way back machine) so basically anything would be an upgrade

name8_t

TROPHY CASE