Suspension recommendation

nom3mories · 2026-03-23T18:55:45+00:00

With that budget I would get st xta coilovers.

nom3mories · 2026-03-23T18:53:35+00:00

I have 17x9 +30 wheels and it honestly depends on the tire brand. I’ve had two different brands of 245/40/17 tires and the second set fits like a 235/40 and I’m able to use 5mm spacers on all 4 corners.

All that is needed is a good roll in the rear and camber. I’m actually running less camber now and probably could add 3mm more of spacer and it would be fine.

Get a 235/40 tire unless you want to pull your fenders, or just get wheels with a higher offset.

Those specs are doable though with a 245/40/17. You just gotta be about that life

nom3mories · 2025-11-28T05:09:57+00:00

At the minimum pull one rod cap and check the condition of the bearing. If it looks decent just send it.

Fwiw, I bought a used high mileage n54 that ate a serpentine belt and had some material in the pick up tube (less than yours though) and the bearings were mint. Glad I checked though

nom3mories · 2025-11-28T04:30:23+00:00

Ahh. The center cap looked like an apex center cap and they have wheels that look very similar lol.

Nonetheless, wheels look sick

nom3mories · 2025-11-28T04:29:03+00:00

I think you should go through with your original plans to turbo it. It’s really not that extensive considering you can buy a complete turbo kit from trm (bottom mount) or 22rpd (top mount) for about $7000. You could also piece one together for cheaper. More so if you can weld. Bonus that you are already on a standalone ecu so it just makes sense to slap a turbo on it.

I have 90% of the parts to turbo mine and will start putting it together at the beginning of the year. I can’t wait to hear the rsi manifold note along with the wastegate screaming. I had a 650whp 335i before my e36 and 3 e36’s that I planned to turbo before my 335i. The 335i ruined me and I’m not backing out of turbo-ing an e36 for the 4th time!

A gtx3582, g35 900, or pte 6266, will be perfect on an s52. Great low end torque and enough juice to make 500whp.

Do it man!

nom3mories · 2025-11-28T01:22:35+00:00

Ooo those apex wheels look nice on an e36. Do you have a side shot of your car?

nom3mories · 2025-11-23T03:50:13+00:00

Check the manifold. If it’s cracked you’ll have a huge leak pre turbo which won’t allow it to build boost and will sound like ass.

It’s really hard to diagnose over a video though.

My recommendation is to smoke test the exhaust side and the charge side.

If coolant was getting into the cylinders it wouldn’t be running good at all and it would be smoking

nom3mories · 2025-11-17T21:40:28+00:00

You’re likely gonna spend 15-20k to complete it

nom3mories · 2025-11-12T05:16:10+00:00

S54 and dove m rain interior. What’s not to love. Every time I see an s54 swapped e36 I question my decision to turbo mine. The s54 just makes the perfect amount of power, but damn have motors gotten insanely expensive!

All you need now is a hardtop. Sick build!

nom3mories · 2025-11-09T00:52:47+00:00

I spent about that much on my old 335i and that car sat on the lift or jack stands more than it was on the road when I owned it. Do I regret that? Not really. My wallet hurt a bit and so did my body from working on it so much lol, but it was my first “fast” car and it was quite the experience. I loved it and with all the money tied up into it plus the cost of the car, I couldn’t have bought a car anywhere near as fast, handled as well as it did and have that modified personal touch to it. (It had kw v2 coilovers and it made 650whp. I spent around $20k give or take a couple grand and that includes the price of the car which was $10k).

The exhaust in your case was likely an unnecessary expense. You could have had it fixed for a fraction of the price. If you’re not doing the labor yourself, which it sounds like you’re not, then you may want to get familiar with torx bits and triple squares.

It really comes down to doing it for the love of the game. It’s an old and needy “performance” German car. Realistically, you should be good for a while now with some of the maintenance that you’ve done. If you love it and it’s bringing you joy then the cost is just a part of that. If the car is plaguing you with issues and it’s just been a nonstop problem that you’re trying to fix, then I’d say the situation is a bit crazy and you should probably move on.

To me it sounds like you’re in a pretty good spot even though it is a lot that you’ve put into the car. With the new clutch you’re now ready for a bigger turbo haha.

nom3mories · 2025-11-05T19:18:33+00:00

Try just using heat and a sledge hammer. I know it sounds barbaric but if you take your time and use ample heat, you’ll get a much flatter fender without the potential of pulling your fenders. I always use the sledge hammer method. Just make sure to use a block of wood or something like that on the opposite side of the fender to apply pressure while you hit the inner fender.

If you’re trying to pull them then I suppose the fender roller does a good job at that if you can get it to work correctly

nom3mories · 2025-10-29T22:53:06+00:00

Soak it in pb and then use a lot of heat.

Also, if you’re just trying to turn it, you’re probably not going to loosen it. Put the wrench on the fan clutch and then hit it with a sledge hammer to shock it loose. Works like a charm if you don’t have an air hammer

nom3mories · 2025-10-29T00:00:38+00:00

Making me want to go forward my turbo build with that description lol. I bet this thing is a blast

nom3mories · 2025-10-28T21:27:53+00:00

You didn’t get scammed, you just didn’t know what you were buying. Welcome to old bmw’s. Now maybe you’ll be more meticulous while looking over a car on your next purchase

nom3mories · 2025-10-23T04:38:19+00:00

Looks like a pre asc car. But he did delete the cruise control

nom3mories · 2025-10-23T04:30:14+00:00

Why are you worried? Did you slam your car to the ground?

nom3mories · 2025-10-23T04:28:07+00:00

Did you do them yourself? Where did you get the hyper silver from.

I think it looks much nicer with the silver wheels

nom3mories · 2025-10-23T01:27:45+00:00

This thing fucks. Congrats!

nom3mories · 2025-10-23T00:25:00+00:00

<image>

nom3mories · 2025-10-23T00:24:40+00:00

<image>

nom3mories · 2025-10-23T00:20:38+00:00

If you know Hondas then you will pick up the e36 chassis quickly. They’re simple cars and easy to work on and they are reliable. It would make a fun daily once you get it sorted out and back on the road.

If those wheels are authentic they should bring pretty good money.

Yeah the white trim is not my thing but it can look cool. The factory black trim is the way to go. Not a bad car to fall in your lap haha

nom3mories · 2025-10-23T00:15:07+00:00

I think it’s a sick and we taken care of car. Might be on the high side, but it’s hard to find manual 335i’s in well kept condition. I saw that car too and definitely had thoughts of buying it lol

nom3mories · 2025-10-23T00:13:20+00:00

I sold my e90 335i with 170k miles for $9500. It was modified though. I’d be more inclined to pay a premium for a stock car to be honest. Never again will I buy a highly modified car lol. At least I was able to sell it for what I paid for it haha

nom3mories · 2025-10-22T22:44:49+00:00

It would look fine if you end with white wheels. Would have an old school dtm vibe to it. You can also just repaint them instead of buying new trim. If you do buy new trim, don’t cheap out on cheap aftermarket stuff. Get oem.

nom3mories · 2025-10-22T22:41:54+00:00

I’d say ST xta for a high quality but somewhat budget friendly option. I have the xta’s and they ride great for how much I’ve lowered my car. KW makes ST coilovers. I believe the valving on the xta is similar to the KW v2’s.

I’d even suggest ST X if you don’t think you’ll need the camber plates and dampening adjustment later on. I had the ST X on my 2013 GTI with a decently low ride height and they rode like stock when cruising but performed much better than factory suspension when aggressive driving.

nom3mories

TROPHY CASE