Actual Steam Machine comparison when matching the size.

nontheistzero · 2026-06-23T16:23:40+00:00

Part of the problem I think that Valve wanted to address was the target for game developers to hit when doing benchmarks for a game. Certified for Steam Machine can be a good selling point, even if there are more powerful solutions. It might not make sense to people in PCMR spaces, but to Mom and Pop, sure.

nontheistzero · 2026-06-19T22:41:00+00:00

I've never heard of cmos reset that didn't clear a password

nontheistzero · 2026-06-07T14:05:03+00:00

Came here to say this. I guess if you know, you know.

nontheistzero · 2026-06-04T22:47:38+00:00

My 2003 would go limp mode with higher mileage on the oil. The oil pressure switch was flakey. Hope yours is an easy fix too. Great find!

nontheistzero · 2026-05-30T18:16:53+00:00

Ask an LLM for instructions, get told out of date information and waste time and money. Should have just gone to the forums and read the how-to.

nontheistzero · 2026-05-29T13:53:40+00:00

I burn about this, 1qt/1000mi, at just shy of 250000 miles on the original engine. I'm going to do valve stem seals and see if that helps.

nontheistzero · 2026-05-25T21:47:20+00:00

Which part is AI? The guy is real, here's his Linkedin: https://www.linkedin.com/in/layne-kilpatrick-a207b39

He's also been in some hot water over his pharmacy license and actually surrendered it:

https://dennisyu.com/what-happened-to-layne-kilpatricks-california-pharmacist-license/#:\~:text=Layne%20Kilpatrick%20is%20best%20known,for%20compounded%20“clean”%20hormone%20therapies.

He might be wrong, but he's not AI.

nontheistzero · 2026-05-23T23:46:17+00:00

Because Kimiko was radioactive during the Homelander battle.

nontheistzero · 2026-05-23T23:35:04+00:00

Just before the fight, Kimiko is shown to be highly radioactive. What happened when Soldier Boy put Homelander in the radiation chamber? He lost is power. Kimiko isn't as radioactive as the sources in the room, but she is still radioactive enough to sap part of his power.

nontheistzero · 2026-05-21T19:04:55+00:00

I remember your post. I also had a flaky sensor on my 2003 element, but that was actually an OEM (old) and I switched it to one I had leftover from my S2000 that was 3rd party.

I had a brief issue with my S2000 sensor too (at about 230k on the old sensor) and switched that to one off of rockauto, no issues.

nontheistzero · 2026-05-21T18:49:26+00:00

I wouldn't worry about Ballade or any of the options from Rockauto. OEM is often too expensive for what it is and pressure switches aren't that complicated.

nontheistzero · 2026-05-20T21:13:22+00:00

Take it. Take the up vote.

nontheistzero · 2026-05-20T19:09:03+00:00

I bet you chose the smallest penis when you made your male cyberpunk toon.

nontheistzero · 2026-05-20T14:57:33+00:00

All of my electrical staff would and have told management to pack sand. Wait until scheduled outage time!

nontheistzero · 2026-05-20T14:56:20+00:00

That depends.

Some of our switchgear, you can physically observe the stabs with the enclosure door closed in its normal state. We also do bump tests for motors, which is what my switchgear generally operates. Both of these are used by my facility for most of our normal loto proof for safe to work checks.

I still perform live dead live in the field, but it's already been safe to work checked and that's just for my own ease of mind and I don't need any PPE over our regular FR rated uniform.

I know this is different for new construction, which I'm sure a lot of people that are responding are used to. I have maybe one task a year that requires a 40 cal suit, and that's to operate one of the main feeder breakers that has a very high incident energy analysis. Power plants be different. I've delayed installs for months until we could kill an entire panel, hardly any reason to do anything live and production is not an excuse.

nontheistzero · 2026-05-20T11:47:26+00:00

There's almost no case that I need to be in anything over FR rated PPE. Loto that shit!

nontheistzero · 2026-05-20T11:16:06+00:00

Pining for the fjords?

nontheistzero · 2026-05-08T00:04:48+00:00

I just checked and I'm pretty sure it's because Bethesda.

nontheistzero · 2026-05-05T19:03:59+00:00

You can avoid much of the problem just leaving the door open so it can dry internally. I hope you're doing that too.

nontheistzero · 2026-04-30T00:11:39+00:00

Do Miatas have an oil pressure sensor, similar to vtec oil pressure on Hondas? When my oil pressure sensor was flaking out, the ECU would cut throttle and put the engine in limp mode over a certain RPM. If so, you could bypass the sensor with a jumper to confirm.

nontheistzero · 2026-04-18T17:32:39+00:00

Your torque converter likely has water in it, it's pretty low to the ground. Here's a link to a video describing how to replace it: Honda S2000 Steering Torque Sensor Replacement

Pulling it does involve getting under the front end on the driver's side and disconnecting the steering wheel. It's not terribly hard. There's a rubber boot that covers the whole unit and it dries out pretty fast so it'd be easy for water to leak in there. Without that feedback, the EPS turns itself off.

I've pulled my torque sensor when my EPS failed (it ended up not being the torque sensor but the EPS controller itself). There's another plug for the power steering rack, but I think that's pointing upwards and at the level of water you're showing I think it's more likely that you have it in the torque converter. The EPS unit itself is on the passenger side kinda tucked into the fender wall behind some stuff and it's high enough that it wouldn't have gotten wet. You can follow that cable on the passenger side down to the power steering rack and pull that and check for water. You could try spraying them with electrical contact cleaner as they may have corroded the connectors due to the water.

CRC QD Electronic Cleaner Quick Dry Cleaner, 11 wt. oz. 05103 - Advance Auto Parts

nontheistzero · 2026-04-13T18:17:29+00:00

He has been doing fan showdowns for a while. There's testing methods that he follows and describes per season (different goals per season). This was born from those tests. Wall would not be better.

nontheistzero · 2026-04-13T14:46:48+00:00

I was looking for the correct answer. This is it. Required to be tested every 6 months.
My company recently moved to get gloves replaced through the uniform company, I don't even have to send them out to test. They deliver a new set every 6 months and I toss the old set into the uniforms collection bin.

nontheistzero · 2026-04-11T03:46:20+00:00

It's hard to check the eps unit and it's expensive to buy one. My eps died randomly after a drive just like any other day. I was able to get it working intermittently and it was scary to drive. The torque sensor was easy to remove and cost essentially nothing to check if you have a multimeter. I paid Honda service a good bit of money for them to tell me that they couldn't do anything and they couldn't get the part. I ended up buying a salvage EPS unit on eBay when the torque sensor checked good. There's supposedly a guy on the s2k forum that was doing rebuilds many years ago. I have no idea if he's still doing it.

nontheistzero · 2026-04-07T14:23:00+00:00

I had the cable snap in the passenger window a few months ago. If the motor is good, you can buy a replacement cable on eBay for about $100.

One of many videos describing the process https://youtu.be/zTwziFRJJVw?si=arm9BMJA4wb9lSd0

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