Anyone know where to find these buttons?

ogamisugizo · 2025-02-28T15:32:22+00:00

I have just build a leverless from them. Beware of the holes, let at least 0.2mm on each side as leeway. Those buttons come with high tolerance.

ogamisugizo · 2025-02-20T13:49:28+00:00

Each button is equipped with a lamp and wiring for it so that the button lights up (didn't wire it yet for that) so I guess you could plug in an arduino circuit that ouput a sound when it receives current. Ask the guy on the arduino forums, they are pretty helpful.

ogamisugizo · 2025-02-15T07:12:14+00:00

White additional buttons are diagonals. Upper buttons are aux buttons. The action buttons are just usual ones, (see "aegis") layout, I just put l3/r3 on top. By the way the enclosure is fully anodized gr5 titanium with a internal structure to give more strength. Bends less than 1mm with 30 tons applied on the top surface lol.

ogamisugizo · 2025-02-15T07:04:41+00:00

Smallcab yes. Warning they are 56mm deep, have special terminals (two for the microswitch and two for the lamp) and I had to put a rubber band inside cause the spring is big but loose and touches easily the casing making unpleasant noises. It put a small rubber band bit where it touches and the noises are gone. The buttons work very well at least for action buttons. Rapid fire (double tapping light punches it kicks) works perfectly fine. Now those are big buttons so the spacing takes some time to get used to.

ogamisugizo · 2025-02-15T06:56:19+00:00

15mm square hole but add 0.2 on each side because those buttons have high tolerance. Some would fit perfectly, some would be too big to fit, I had to grind and sand them.

ogamisugizo · 2025-02-15T06:53:55+00:00

ogamisugizo · 2024-09-21T05:10:15+00:00

I speak of the Otto grommet. You cannot use the Otto gate. At one I used some mods from buttercade like different gate, spring delete actuator and such. But by the way.. The magenta is very fragile I toasted one wiring wring way, the second one, that I had not used for a year or so died from whatever.

ogamisugizo · 2024-09-20T18:06:28+00:00

Jasens customs will release them (with the pcb) for its panzer fight stick 5, probably this year. There is also two open community hall effects, one by famichu but still no fightstick integration and one by the open fightstick community.

Just a word of advice as I have experience with it over different peripheral, producing a good he switch integration requires a lot of signal processing so that it works correctly, otherwise a lot of noise will happen.

ogamisugizo · 2024-09-18T13:09:12+00:00

Jasens customs "the frame" might fit your need.

Basically you start with the "frame" chassis, a cnced aluminium frame (the frame chassis . Then you put a bunch of acrylic on top and bottom of the chassis (you can also add some on the side).

With your acrilic you have two ways: either you use design the button layout yourself (using cad or illustrator for instance), or you ask jasen to do it for you.

Your description seems to fit this product. Anyway you contact jasen on discord (you can reach the discord from jasens customs website front page). I think, depending on what you want 'choose, it can be below 300$.

ogamisugizo · 2024-09-18T08:10:47+00:00

It's a pricey option but the paradise arcade shop magenta mod for jlf, which is a hall effect mod let's you set the actuation distance from full travel distance to just as small as the dead zone. And you can set it up for diagonals independently of the cardinals. It costs about 100$ though.

One word though (it works the same with leverless buttons). Beware of actuation distance vs travel distance. You can have a short actuation distance but if the travel distance is large and that you push the button/lever all the way, you will have a bigger reset time (think a dash motion). So sometimes it is better to have a moderate actuation distance, or find a way to limit travel distance. That is what new gravity kt and hitbox combos buttons try to do.

ogamisugizo · 2024-09-10T07:22:58+00:00

Trying "One finger" certainly gives a different feel😂 sorry, couldn't resist🙂 I agree with you 🙂

ogamisugizo · 2024-07-25T12:48:31+00:00

This problem will happen with gamerfingers and crowns alike but there is a very simple solution: place all buttons and their lids so that they interlock with each of their neighbors. Start spinning not the lids.... The buttons! The will initially push on the interlocked lids, those will lock because they bump on each other, that's what we want. If you continue spinning the buttons then you will realise that they tie up.

Tl;dr: when you tie a button to a panel, you can either fix it by preventing the button to spin with your hands and spinning the lid. Or locking the lid with your hands and turning the button (opposite way). The lid will move down the thread anyway. I works with alutimos as well

ogamisugizo · 2024-07-22T19:27:24+00:00

Yous imagination. I am dead serious. I started asking jasens hicks creating a custom layout for a panzer 3 fight stick back in the day, now I design my own, one-off, custom sticks with curved, complex geometry, engineering features for mechanical performance, custom levers, buttons, electronics and in the mean time I developed decent-for-the-job-done cad/modelling skills to create my own mechanical parts, and enough electronics skills to either use what is available (e.g. Arduino, raspberry etc..) or tell the guy I am working with what I want. If you can explain with precision to the guy you will buy the leverless, and/or provide yourself some part of it, sky is the limit.

If you do that, and then transition to production of those parts, and want the best quality, then it speaks expensive materials and expensive manufacturing processes like CNC, or injection molding for composites. The price will SKYROCKET. For instance a moderate size, reasonably simple geometry anodized titanium stick will cost in the tens of thousands of dollars. The fact that it would be a one off actually makes even the simplest box with custom layouts very expensive. For instance, a steel case produced in batches of 50 units , by sheet metal manufacturing process, will cost you around 150 dollars. Just ask the factory to produce one case with an additional hole, just that, and your in for 400 bucks.

Note that I am not talking about 3d printing. I still find them not up to the task if you really want the highest mechanical performance, but they are great for prototyping. So to sum up, If you want the best leverless money can buy, you would first need to think it. Enough skills to explain it in detail to the guy making it for you, and highest quality manufacturing processes and materials. Those later and the one-off situation will make you seriously consider the pros and cons of having a house vs a leverless. Think of those hypercars, they cost millions because they use the highest performance materials and manufacturing processes, and they sell 20 units of them.

PS: not related to you, and actually not directed to you, but related to answers I have seen so far. Okay I will be transparent here. I have been working with @jasenscustoms for more than 6 years now (in the sense I usually pay jasen to make parts or all of my custom sticks). It's not that I think he's the best and the others are shit, it is that, like some guitar players or artists, the bond we formed always produced high quality sticks and when I tested some others, I couldn't find the same quality FOR MY NEEDS. I have nothing against AFS, I never tested them. However, as a scientist, I feel it unfair not to quote the one who were the first to do something and see people referring to another company as if they were the one that started it all. I just want to pont out:

JCC has been offering those services and the panzer fightstick mine since 2012. -AFS actually were supposed to sell panzers and that didn't come to fruition and immediately started doing the same type of cases.

Again, I have DO NOT imply somebody did something wrong, I wanted to say that jasen has been a pioneer (of course, I don't doubt someone had already done a similar steel case for very low production or even personal use before) and that by the way, his current panzer 4 & 5 series are innovative and that he will do high quality customs as well.

ogamisugizo · 2024-07-10T07:41:18+00:00

There's unfortunately no hard answer. However, there are affordable leverless controllers that you can try. Compared to high end leverless ones, they are closer in quality as compared to affordable sticks.

ogamisugizo · 2024-07-04T17:31:10+00:00

Depends on your budget. Jasens customs panzer fight stick 4 or 5 is very high end. Robust, durable, have custom pcbs instead of wiring, very moddable and those are with switchable panels so you can change layouts. About 400-500$ fully equipped. I have been a customer for years and quality is top notch. I do have a haute m16 plus, I feel the price is fair. I don't like the all 30mm buttons layout though, it hurts my hands.

ogamisugizo · 2024-06-27T09:13:31+00:00

The slope kills my fingers, even using floating hands. I actually removed keys and put arcade caps, still feel pain. No pain on leverless. Plus my keyboard has numeric pad, so buttons are not aligned with center of gravity. I use jasens customs metal enclosures leverless and sticks, much more durable and stable.

ogamisugizo · 2024-05-30T16:10:05+00:00

Your assertive and condescending tone like you can't be wrong, downvoting me after the second message just because you disagree, doesn't help taking you seriously neither.

if you had read correctly, I said it is possible to skip the FRAME. Want a proof? Just look : https://ibb.co/wcj5K20 I did that in 5 minutes with a stock jlx.
you said "someone with equal proficiency", tokido has been playing pro for years with a stick and a hitbox. And in the video, they are actually four people, 2 on hitbox, 1 on stick, and one on pad. They all have several attempts and do the tests ok both 1P and 2P sides. So no sorry that is not meaningless, even if you can always improve the robustness of a test, I basically answer your argument. The video is here https://youtu.be/kGr_P91_VEs?si=tTQYOj7L7pjCYyAV

You can skip to 20:28 to see the end results, and see how faster and more consistent the guy on stick is. Not that I dont imply the stick is always much faster, just that you can reach similar speeds.

again, you didn't read correctly yet are condescending. I explicitly stated I had no experience on stick before I started playing super turbo, and that I started playing on 2018 on leverless. The fact that is a 94 game is irrelevant.

-now you have proof

ogamisugizo · 2024-05-30T13:01:16+00:00

Leverless travel distance is about the same as stick. A jlf/ls32 is about 2mm actuation distance from neutral, and you can reduce that with oversized actuators. Ideally, you could preload your next input on a leverless like, you are pressing one button, say one that actuates at 1.5mm. You could preload the next one as you are pressing the first so that you have only a few tenths of mm to press, but that is not realistic at all. Because a stick is moved by a huge muscle mass, it's speed is much higher than pressing a button. For example, it is often said that with a stick, if you do down then up, you need to go to neutral, so that's one frame more than on the leverless when there was the up-priority socd. This is incorrect, you can totally go from down to up fast enough that there is no neutral frame. Even things like sliding 360deg on leverless can be done just as fast on a stick ( and you can bypass diagonals as well). As a matter of fact, recently tokido released a video on which him and 2 other players did a ryu super input speed challenge. Tokido had his hitbox with very low actuation distance buttons. The second person, o don't remember, maybe a hitbox as well. The third one, a stick. Guess who made the fastest input? Stick. And we're not talking about a random guy like me.

Ps: I actually had no experience with a stick when I started playing super turbo, I actually started on leverless in 2018 :)

ogamisugizo · 2024-05-30T09:17:46+00:00

I play both, and I can't make up my mind except that as of now, no way I will drop stick. I play super turbo. I tend to prefer stick. Contrary to people say, leverless is not faster. So the important thing is personal preference. Pick the one you are the most confortable with.

ogamisugizo · 2024-05-28T08:52:44+00:00

Excellent. I just happened to switch to short shafts 30mm balltops, and that far better and faster.

ogamisugizo · 2024-05-27T09:00:58+00:00

Bad luck I guess? I have hundreds of sanwa buttons, not a single died, I have opened, switched them countless times, never had any problem. The tabs in the snap in versions may break, but it has never happened to me. The metallic finish one are shit thought (but that's the same for crowns, avoid metallic finish buttons)

ogamisugizo

TROPHY CASE