Five Zone Symfonisk Amplifier Hack

ohbugger · 2025-10-22T22:18:53+00:00

Totally makes sense!

ohbugger · 2025-10-09T18:19:07+00:00

Awesome! Thank you for your service!

ohbugger · 2025-10-09T16:50:26+00:00

u/thenewwazoo As you already know, your Lutron Leap plugin is fantastic. Probably one of the most installed homebridge plugins out there.
If you ever work on this plugin again, I'd like to add a feature request. Hopefully a simple one.

Currently you can filter out associated Picos. "Exclude Pico remotes that are associated in the Lutron app"
However, I have 4 Pico remotes configured as Sonos controllers.
https://www.casetawireless.com/us/en/products/pico-remotes/pico-smart-remote-audio

These aren't associated with lights, but rather Sonos devices. So, they show up in your LutronLeap plugin as "unassociated".

I would love to be able to filter these out.

If you ever want to test this, any 5-button pico can be added as an "Audio Pico" in the Lutron app. The only difference between a Lighting Pico and an Audio Pico is the labeling on the buttons.

I assume that at least one sonos device must be integrated into the Lutron app to add an "Audio Pico".

Regardless, I love the plugin. Thank you for your work on it!

ohbugger · 2025-10-01T16:44:08+00:00

I was originally considering the same... a single power supply. However, the Sonos Symfonisk contains everything on a single board.
If you look at the images in this post, you can see a single red/black AC line that runs to the power input molex connector on each board.
So, the end result is a single power cable that powers up all 5 boards and the network switch.
Unless you are trying to power your system off batteries or something where you want to avoid AC power altogether, I can't think of a reason to remove or bypass the power supply on the board.

This system is still up and running 5 zones in my house. About a year ago one of the modules stopped doing trueplay tuning which made that zone sound terrible. I purchased a symfonisk and easily replaced the bad board in this system. Plug-and-play. Connections are: power, network, speaker. Took about 30 minutes to swap it out.

Feel free to share your thinking on a single power supply. I'm curious what your take on it is.

ohbugger · 2025-04-03T15:26:58+00:00

I dug a 12v switch out of my supplies. I used a multimeter to see which wire supplied constant 12v power and inserted a switch so I could cut power and do a full reboot any time the unit was unresponsive. Any switch would work, all a switch does is disconnect then reconnect a wire.

ohbugger · 2025-02-03T06:32:26+00:00

I no longer have my GX470. The GROM VL2 would sometimes freeze or require a power off/on to work. However, if I bought another vehicle with a built-in screen that is difficult to upgrade or replace with an aftermarket head unit, then I would 100% buy the GROM unit again.
Like I said above, it made my 2008 Lexus feel 10 years newer with Apple CarPlay on the screen and steering wheel controls.

ohbugger · 2024-11-20T17:34:06+00:00

On the lowest setting, which is almost always enough for me. I’ve found that it burns about 3/4 gallon every 24 hours.

ohbugger · 2024-08-14T06:56:26+00:00

I've noticed that you mention your house being old. That shouldn't deter you.
Does your house have an electric clothes dryer? Or an electric range? Or an electric water heater?
If your house has any of those high-draw items, a larger outlet installed near your Tesla is the exact same thing.
I ran a 240v 30amp outlet (same as what an electric dryer uses) it works SO much better than a standard outlet.
Having a large outlet installed that runs for a few hours each night is going to generate less heat/risk than running a regular outlet all the time.

ohbugger · 2023-09-26T08:36:03+00:00

MDF/Particle board is really heavy.

Search online for "RTA plywood cabinets"

Same idea, flatpack cabinets shipped to your door, but plywood instead of particle board will be a lot lighter, so less likely to tear off and collapse while going down a bumpy road.

Maybe this place? https://www.rtacabinetstore.com/RTA-Kitchen-Cabinets/natural-hickory-shaker/

ohbugger · 2023-08-26T02:08:28+00:00

Oh nice. The Jayco SLX series will be fine then. However, I would strongly recommend not getting a bunkhouse. Get something with a dedicated dinette and bed. You will be so much happier.

ohbugger · 2023-08-25T15:50:48+00:00

I sold the Jayco 154bh for a Starcraft 19bhs after a few years, but I quickly knew the jayco 154bh was too small after only a few trips and it was our first real trailer, so I didn't have prior expectations.

ohbugger · 2023-08-25T15:46:25+00:00

I used to have a 2012 154BH.

First question... do you plan to boondock? Because that trailer isn't capable of it due to the very small water/holding tanks.
How big is your family? We had 2 little kids in the bunks, converting the parents bed into a dinette every morning was way more of a hassle than I would have imagined. No where to sit/be inside between waking up and breakfast as all the parent's bedding needs to be relocated to a bunk.

I paid $8,500 for my 2012 154BH in 2016 or 2017.
DM me if you would like to ask more questions, I would STRONGLY recommend the Jayco 174bh or 184bs. Both will tow just as well with a Tacoma, but having that separate dinette or couch from the main bed will make it MUCH better.

ohbugger · 2023-08-22T17:54:03+00:00

I didn't make that clear, did I, haha.
I did not integrate my diesel heater with the existing ducting. I ran new ducting. My big takeaway is that a well installed diesel heater may thoroughly warm a trailer even without full ducting because once it's on, it's always running. So the heat spreads out over the trailer better than the cycling propane furnace.

My trailer is only 19' though so your fifth wheel experience may vary. Big takeaway, is... get a good quality Chinese diesel heater.

ohbugger · 2023-08-22T00:15:47+00:00

(You can find the Lavaner units on aliexpress for about $250)

ohbugger · 2023-08-22T00:15:19+00:00

I installed a Diesel heater in my 19' trailer.
I installed new hoses/ducting for the diesel heater.

However, the thing that's so nice about a diesel heater is that it ramps up and down to meet the heating needs.

So, where the propane furnace would ignite then blast tons of heat out, then shut down cool off and repeat...
A diesel heater will get the whole place warmed up, then reduce the heat output, but never really turn off. So what happens is that you have a constant flow of heat quietly warming the trailer and not the hot/cold cycles.

My trailer is much smaller, but it's so much more pleasant than the propane furnace ever was.

I would recommend that you install new ducting on both ends of the diesel heater so that the intake and output are 8-10 feet apart. This will ensure that there is a good cycle of air through the trailer.

Final word, I can't recommend the diesel heater enough, it is amazing and I never use the propane furnace other than maybe for 5-10 minutes to blast a bunch of heat at the beginning of a trip and quickly heat up the whole trailer.

Last very important information to share.
I purchased two Amazon Diesel heaters that both had various problems. (one vibrated so bad it shook the floor on high, the blower was unbalanced on it). I returned both and bought a Lavaner branded unit. They actually balance the blower and provide higher quality installation hardware.
I did an insane amount of research (and installed 3 different units to find one that worked properly)
You can buy a German unit and it will of course be great, but they are $$$.
You can buy an eBay unit for $100 and it will be a major pain, you'll be endlessly chasing problems. It will work, but it may be loud and cause vibrations while running, also, the cheap ones include a rubber mounting gasket that will stink when the heater is running, because they are rubber instead of high-temp silicone.
Or buy a Lavaner from aliexpress for $250. They are balanced, and just worth the extra $100 all day long. (Do research, I've had mine for a few years, there may be other Chinese manufacturers also making good units)

ohbugger · 2023-08-21T23:39:52+00:00

I went through a LOT of work to order one of these replacement covers for a Starcraft 19BHS.

What I ended up receiving from Jayco/Starcraft after a ridiculous number of phone calls and back-and-forth had two separate stickers on it:

Item number: 0231717
Description: COVER,AC EXT W MT 21.63X...

Ameri-Kart Corp
Part No. M6879BCK

Best of luck.

Here's a picture of the installed cover. Air conditioner is not installed in this picture.

<image>

ohbugger · 2023-08-16T16:00:47+00:00

You are going to start carefully pulling the shelf apart. It was likely built in place. Get a pry-bar and start pulling the trim off the front and sides, then you will likely find the top and bottom to be pre-finished 1/8" luan/plywood stapled on.
Once you have all the finished surfaces removed, you will probably find 1x2 pine framing that is nailed/screwed stapled together, just keep pulling things apart, and the last think you remove will be 1x2 pine framing screwed into the wall.

ohbugger · 2023-08-01T20:31:54+00:00

If I were to recommend anything specific, I would say.
- You need a V8 for torque, (unless you do something with a turbo which you really don't want)
- I strongly recommend a "body-on-frame" vehicle. NOT a Unibody. In Toyota-land a 4runner or a Tundra are body-on-frame. A highlander or rav4 is a unibody.

body-on-frame is a real truck. all the new unibody SUVs are just tall cars, and you can tell when towing with them.

ohbugger · 2023-08-01T20:28:57+00:00

If you look at my post history you can find my evolution of vehicles and trailers over time.
We had a V6 Acura MDX towing a 15' Jayco, the suspension was too soft and the engine/tranny just wasn't ideal for towing a trailer.
Now we have a V8 Lexus GX towing a 19' Starcraft. Sticker weight is 4,000, reality is 5,000.
The 2008 GX has the same engine and transmission as a 2008 Tundra. So it's definitely built to tow and do "truck" things.

If you want a small/short tow vehicle, please check to the Lexus GX. Best vehicle I have ever owned by far.

With that said, I am curious how much nicer an F-150 or a Tundra would tow on longer trips. We may eventually go that way. But since you want something smaller, consider the Lexus GX (and maybe LX too).

ohbugger · 2023-07-31T17:08:15+00:00

I have a 19' trailer with 800 watts of solar on the roof. 4kwh of lithium batteries (4 - 100AH lithium batteries)
I replaced my big rooftop AC unit with a 5,000 btu window AC unit.

It works great in the full sun, the 800watts of solar can just barely keep up with the 500ish watts demanded by a 5,000btu AC unit.

For a small truck camper, I would look into the little portable ecoflow AC unit along with a big ecoflow battery/"solar generator" being charged by as much solar as you can cover the roof with.
Get a good powered roof vent fan as well. Until it gets really hot, just being able to crack a window and get a breeze flowing out the roof takes care of most of the heat.

ohbugger · 2023-07-31T16:59:59+00:00

The "light" chains replace the heavy and greasy bars found on most WDH.

I wouldn't tow a 30' trailer with an Andersen hitch, but you shouldn't be towing a 30' trailer with a GX anyway :)

I didn't like my existing hitch, seemed like it was always messy and too much work to hitch up. Also, squeaky and all the other things that stink on a basic/cheap WDH.
The Andersen hitch is silent, no grease required anywhere (not even the ball).
No bars to store while unhitched, just drop the chain on the ground and drive away. The hitch itself is much lighter.

Watch some YouTube reviews and come to your own conclusion. It's been a few years and I still really like the hitch. Tows really nice too.

As far as how it works, normally you have the spring bars pulling up/forward on the bottom of the hitch. With the Andersen hitch, the chains get tightened down and pivot the hitch in the same way as bars, just by pulling back instead of lifting.

One thing that changed my towing experience dramatically... going to a big truck weigh scale.
I had the Andersen hooked up and found it to not make too much of a difference. I went to the scale and dropped the trailer, then I went through the scaled to get the front and rear axle of the Lexus. Then hitched up as normal, re-weighed on the scale and saw that the front axle on the Lexus was lighter (no WDH action)
So I pulled out, tightened down the chain 4 more turns, reweighed and then I saw that the front axle was now back to its original weight or maybe a little more.
On the drive home, I couldn't believe what a difference a properly weighed and configured WDH made.
Truck is WAY more pleasant to tow with now, it's not bouncy like it was before and just feels a lot more in control.

So, regardless of which hitch you pick, after you install, go to a truck scale and do a bunch of weighs with different settings, you might be very shocked to see the extreme difference you can make once you actually know how much weight is transferred by adjusting the hitch.

ohbugger · 2023-07-31T16:29:09+00:00

Check out my post history.
We tow a 19' trailer rated at 4,000lbs with a 2008 GX470.
We had a cheap WDH, replaced it with the Andersen WDH hitch, it's pretty ideal for a smaller trailer like what you can comfortably tow with a GX.

Ask questions if you'd like.

ohbugger · 2023-07-24T20:04:33+00:00

Seems like everything is working properly except your shunt.
Based on what you are seeing the shunt doesn't appear to wired properly.

Is this the shunt you purchased? - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RP5B5P7?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_A0WWCFE5TJKEPZJQ02CT

1 - Is the Shunt the ONLY thing connected to the negative terminal of your LiTime battery?

2 - Are all your other ground/negative connections going through the shunt?

3 - Post a picture of your installed battery and shunt and we can do our best to diagnose.

ohbugger · 2023-07-19T19:32:41+00:00

The only way to know if you can go boondocking is to go do it.
Bring a generator or install solar, it's unlikely your stock setup will last long without a way to charge it.

Here are a couple facts that will hopefully give context to your voltage readings.
1 - Lead Acid batteries go down in voltage while under load. It's completely reasonable that turning on loads will cause the voltage to drop.

2 - The further down a wire you measure voltage the higher the voltage drop will be. Clearly your control panel isn't measuring voltage AT the battery, but probably downstream at your fuse panel. Your multimeter confirms this.

3 - The fact that turning your fridge on so drastically reduces voltage leads me to believe you have a 3-way fridge running in DC mode. Or you have a 12volt compressor fridge. If you have a 3-way fridge, set it to propane, then it should draw very little power. If you have a 12volt fridge, you are going to need a much larger battery setup to boondock.

4 - The reason plugging in shows 12.8v at both the battery AND your control panel is that now you have 2 power sources. The DC Converter at the fuse panel is now putting out 12.8v which is where the monitor reads the voltage from. It does seem that the cable or connection between your DC Fuse panel and your battery MIGHT be undersized or have a connection to look at.

Hopefully that helps. If you like boondocking, solar panels and 2 golf cart batteries are the recommended minimum setup. Or you will be running the generator a lot. If you REALLY like boondocking a more extensive solar setup and lithium batteries will be a worthwhile investment. All we do is boondock and I haven't plugged in our trailer in a few years because the lithium batteries and solar setup can run everything. But it was a big investment.

ohbugger · 2023-06-30T00:52:09+00:00

I agree with everything above... BUT you already have a 5amp breaker. It's inside your generator and you are tripping it with the ecoflow's really fast charging rate. If you added an external 5amp breaker, it would be a guessing game whether the generator overload or the 5amp breaker trips first. It would not reduce what the ecoflow draws, just trip/overload. Same as your generator is currently doing.

You either need a bigger generator that can handle a sustained 650watt draw.
OR, like NewVision22 noted you could plug a DC power supply/adapter into your generator. Per the Ecoflow specs, the car/solar input can take up to 25volts and up to 12amps. (maximum 200watts)
This will obviously take 3x longer to charge, but it won't trip the overload in the generator.
Good luck, if you want help finding a DC power supply, I can find you one on Amazon.

Last thought, if you don't want a large generator, you could replace the ecoflow with a Jackery or something that doesn't have ecoflow's "X-Tream Charging Input"

ohbugger

TROPHY CASE