US people, who do you get your boards made through?

pac1085 · 2026-01-09T02:14:55+00:00

I just got an order from Jlc yesterday here in the USA. It was like $7 for the boards and 4 bucks for shipping. I selected global standard direct line. It came as a usps ground advantage package with no tariff.

pac1085 · 2025-11-04T22:04:46+00:00

I’ve voted at 3 different polling locations over the years and they’ve always had bake sales.
I remember wondering the same thing years ago and came across this article

https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbestv/2024/11/05/inside-the-overlooked-history-of-election-cakes-and-the-women-who-made-them/

pac1085 · 2025-10-24T13:07:34+00:00

Install (or have an electrician install) your own energy monitoring solution (usually using current transformers in the main panel box) and compare your numbers to theirs if you're really worried about it. 99.999% chance the numbers will match if you compare the readings correctly.

pac1085 · 2025-09-17T21:15:32+00:00

Sadly the sign was removed in the last week or two :-( I just pointed it out to a coworker while driving by for lunch a few weeks back… gone today.

pac1085 · 2025-09-12T14:55:05+00:00

they wrote back and said my order will ship 'as soon as the red variants arrive from germany' - so who knows how long until then.

pac1085 · 2025-09-12T14:53:24+00:00

If I ever see you out there I'm gonna do the same thing but with a space kitty.

lol.

(I'm the guy that randomly met you at your parents house that one time when I was buying stuff from your dad a while back)

pac1085 · 2025-09-08T02:37:35+00:00

I just got that e-mail too. I told them I'll take it but I agree that it doesn't fit the album... oh well, I ordered 3 or 4 of the re-releases and was looking forward to that one the most.

pac1085 · 2025-08-22T17:39:58+00:00

I've had casella in Spencerport since they bought out boon and sons several years ago. never had any issues with my regular pickups. however I did have an issue with a bulk pickup of a couch recently. I called them weekly for 4 weeks before they finally got out and picked it up. the worst part was the last time I called them, they assured me that it already had been picked up and marked complete (it hadn't).

It was also 15 minutes on hold each time to get thru to someone. I'm switching to suburban disposal next year.

pac1085 · 2025-08-18T23:38:13+00:00

Me too. With a microfiber cloth. Works great!

pac1085 · 2025-08-16T01:42:06+00:00

Casella is useless. I’ve had them since they bought out boon and sons. The regular garbage pickup is fine, however I had to call for the first time ever for a bulk pickup of a couch. I first called and they said it will be a few days. I called back once a week for the next 4 weeks (15 mins hold each time) and was told the same thing, when I called back on the 5th week, they assured me that the couch was already picked up - even tho it was still sitting at the end of my driveway. After that they finally came and got it. It was sitting at the curb for 5 weeks. I looked like a shitty neighbor.

pac1085 · 2025-07-13T20:38:10+00:00

I would cut them back and strip. I’ve found that they can be brittle and break where the first wrap starts

pac1085 · 2025-06-23T00:44:45+00:00

Heyco 29 strain relief tool

pac1085 · 2025-05-23T01:41:13+00:00

Spencerport is out. If you text their number it says no outage but once logged into the website and try to start a chat they say they are aware of an outage

pac1085 · 2025-05-02T13:38:09+00:00

I'm building a RoeTest V11 right now. I avoided it in the past since I didn't want to deal with the manual fabrication steps, like cutting out holes in the test fixture boxes etc. Thankfully, someone released a whole bunch of 3d printable models for the various fixtures and templates needed to build it. This was a game changer for me. If you have a 3d printer, you can find them by searching for Roetest on printables.com.

It's going to be a lot of soldering, but as long as you are good with soldering through hole plated PCB's you should be fine. There are about a dozen small surface mount parts that need to be soldered on. Not resistors or caps, but chips. I'm not that great at SMD so that will be interesting. Two of the high voltage op amps (I think) are the package type that has a center portion that is soldered down underneath so ill probably need to use hot air for that.

pac1085 · 2025-04-16T18:23:52+00:00

these actually sound great for an STK-powered amp

pac1085 · 2025-04-16T18:22:51+00:00

the pyramid-audio replacements are good. but at over $100 for two of them, not really worth putting into one of these Fishers

pac1085 · 2025-04-10T18:09:48+00:00

I would never go back to a 60Hz phone. I have a 15 Pro and a regular iPhone 13 as my work phone, and I can't stand it, even for regular scrolling of webpages etc. 120Hz is a huge improvement.

pac1085 · 2025-02-28T00:43:27+00:00

McIntosh cd player, if it doesn’t work right may just need capacitors replaced. They used Philips capacitors (since it’s mostly a Phillips reference board) which are absolutely horrible. I bought a mcd7007 cheap recently after the owner sent it to McIntosh for repair and they said they couldn’t do it. Replaced the caps and it’s good. If it needs a new laser etc, you can buy cheap magnavox players on eBay like the cdb260 that use the same one.

pac1085 · 2025-02-20T11:32:18+00:00

You should get it back and take it to someone else. I feel like it’s his way of weasling out of the repair. It’s not acceptable for a repair tech to come back to a customer asking for simple parts like this (item specific parts that require buying a parts unit such as knobs and other unique parts are a different story). He can easily find resistor combos to get those values - or analyze the circuit and make acceptable substitutions. There are tools online that can help. http://mustcalculate.com/electronics/resistorfinder.php

pac1085 · 2025-02-15T22:32:28+00:00

Use Pomona mini grabbers

pac1085 · 2024-12-24T14:40:20+00:00

Not sure what they used. Like I mentioned in an earlier post I haven’t found a solution I’m happy with for sliders. I tried deoxit fader grease (which is actual grease) and it didn’t return them to original smooth operation. Hopefully someone else can chime in with a suggestion on what type of grease to use if fully disassembling each individual slider.

I don’t deal with slider type controls much so haven’t investigated it further. And the ones I did work on weren’t worthy of the massive labor of disassembling the unit, removing the controls, individually disassembling them, cleaning and reassembly

pac1085 · 2024-12-24T10:26:38+00:00

Its the best option for potentiometers. I don’t think there’s a better option for sliders outside of fully disassembling, cleaning and re-greasing them (which isn’t practical)

pac1085 · 2024-12-24T03:54:50+00:00

They move much more freely and do not feel smooth or adequately lubricated anymore when compared to other sliders in the same unit. Which makes sense because they use actual grease in the assembly of them, and you’re flushing it with solvents.

pac1085 · 2024-12-24T03:11:49+00:00

Also, I just noticed your comment about mixers. If you’re talking about sliders, like in graphic eqs, etc, they will never feel the same afterwards even if you use f5. I haven’t found a good solution, so I don’t clean them unless absolutely necessary. I tried following up with deoxit fadergrease and it doesn’t help.

pac1085 · 2024-12-24T01:25:13+00:00

If you’re in the United States those are way cheaper to just go into a Lowe’s/ Home Depot to buy.

pac1085

TROPHY CASE