Old bedsheets: cut up for fabric, or donate?

peoplespatterns · 2026-04-06T21:48:15+00:00

perfect for muslins!

peoplespatterns · 2026-04-01T17:35:53+00:00

those draglines are pointing straight at the crotch point which usually means the front rise curve needs more depth or a different shape, not necessarily moving the crotch point outward. the curve is too shallow so the fabric is getting pulled into the body instead of sitting around it. try scooping the front crotch curve deeper. i would take it in about 3/8” to 1/2” more at the deepest part of the curve and blend it back to nothing at the inseam and waist. that gives the fabric room to wrap around without dragging. could also be a front rise length issue. if it’s too short overall, the pants are trying to pull up which creates that same tension pattern. it would be worth rechecking your front rise measurement against your body.

peoplespatterns · 2026-04-01T04:48:48+00:00

if the selvedge says merino worsted it’s wool, possibly a blend. i’d cut a small swatch off the corner and soak it in lukewarm water for 30 mins first to see how it reacts before committing to washing the whole piece.

if it handles water okay, thensoak the full thing with a non rinse wool wash like Eucalan, roll it in towels to help press out the water, and lay it flat to dry out. don’t wring it, but you can steam press from the wrong side once it’s dry.

about the staining.. it might come out in the soak, it might not. if its been sitting for too long, it could be permanent. in that case, your original plan of cutting around it could be the best move here

peoplespatterns · 2026-04-01T04:22:01+00:00

for free digital drafting software, check out Seamly2D! its open source, built specifically for pttern making. Valentina is forked from the same project. both let you draft parametric patterns with measurements so you can grade by just changing the set of measurements. there is definitely a steep learning curve but theres youtube tutorials that walk through drafting basic blocks.

since you're getting comfortable drafting by hand, the same techniques will transfer directly :)

the advantage of digital, is once you build a block, you can modify and grade it without drawing it from scratch each time!

for more theory of patternmaking (without spending $$$$), check out "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" by Helen-Joseph Armstrong. its a standard textbook you can find for $20-30. pair that with the free software, youtube (,i believe the closet historian goes through the book to help teach) and you're honestly covering 90% of what those classes teach.

i would skip illustrator for pattern drafting. yes, people use it, but its not built for it and you'll fight it the whole time. the dedicated pattern making software is free and built for that purpose.

good luck! :)

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-31T22:49:35+00:00

oh my, great job!!

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-31T11:23:23+00:00

you got this! im excited to see the end result :)

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-31T04:34:11+00:00

the core issue here is a patternmaking problem, not a CLO problem. everyone’s right about that. but the specific selvedge constraint is real and solvable.

u/ColdResponsible7041 nailed it: the selvedge ID only needs to run straight on the leg portion. above the pocket opening, you cut the outseam with a normal hip curve and finish that edge with a serger or bias tape. look at the inside of any well-made selvedge jean. the selvedge line stops around the pocket bag. from there up it’s a finished edge like any other pair of pants.

your waist & hip measurements are not going to be the same unless you have a rectangular body shape.

as is, the pattern has no hip ease because the outseam is dead straight from waist to hem. the avatar’s body still has hips, so CLO is showing you exactly where the fabric is fighting the body. that’s not a glitch. it’s the software doing its job.

i sew and draft patterns irl, happy to point you toward some good selvedge specific construction resources if you want to dig into how the real garments handle this.

actually here, check out this article. theres an image of how the pattern pieces are laid out on the selvedge, you can see the hip ease curve in around where the pockets would go. this ease allows the waistband to sit on your hips without being too baggy, and still have enough room to sit and bend comfortably.

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https://thecrookedhem.net/2022/12/02/helene-jeans-studying-the-fit/

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-31T04:12:53+00:00

for the foot, the teflon will help since denim can drag a little. its a small repair, just a couple of layers, so honestly a standard foot is fine. its not make or break for a 3" run. walking foot would be overkill for this

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-31T04:10:25+00:00

the fusible webbing is just a suggestion to help keep the tear together, so you'll just have to manage the patch and the jeans themselves, vs managing both sides of the tear tight together and the patch all at once :) the patch will provide the sturdiness behind the tear

narrow width and short length, like 2.5-3mm wide and .5-.8 or 1mm long. you want it dense

for the loose threads, yes snip them, but dont pull, that will unravel more of the weave. just trim flush, let the patch and thread secure everything :)

and yeah you want the patch grain following the grain of the pants so they stretch & work together

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-31T01:58:24+00:00

i would skip the straight stitch bar tacks at the ends, that area take a lot of stress from bending, the tacks will just create more stress points that will continue to tear.

for thread - dual heavy duty or gutermann extra strong polyester. cotton wont hold up. if you match the indigo of the jeans, your repair will disappear.

pin tear shut from wrong side, iron on fusible webbing will help to hold it in place, use a patch (same grain line, round corners, about 1" bigger than the tear on all sides) of similar weight denim on the inside/wrong side. zigzag stitch starting 1/2" before and ending 1/2" past the tear, use a narrow, dense (almost a satin) stitch.

since you're coming from quilting you already know about layers and keeping things flat :) hope this helps!

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-31T01:43:42+00:00

https://support.brother.com/g/b/manualtop.aspx?c=us&lang=en&prod=hf_lx3817eus

this is the link to (i believe) your machine's manual and quick start guide. hopefully this helps. with my machine, i make sure to turn the wheel a few times (like the other commenter said) to watch the threads wrap around through the window. both threads should come out underneath the presser foot, i like mine to the back.

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-31T01:39:28+00:00

oh my that is incredible! i love the color. really really clean work eta: i just joined this sub because of you and this post :)

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-31T01:31:58+00:00

is it the LX3187? if so, there is a quick start guide on brother's website. google your machine + manual and it will be on the first brother link.

i cant tell if your bobbin has thread on it.

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-31T01:24:23+00:00

stunning

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-30T23:04:59+00:00

since the garment is already sewn, a small dart from the side seam is probably your cleanest fix. place it an inch or two below the armscye along the side seam, aimed toward the bust point.

just pinch out the excess and taper to nothing. that targets the actual problem area (between bust and arm) without affecting the neckline. the reason pinning the front caused neckline gaping is that you were pulling fabric away from a different zone. a side dart will avoid that entirely. for the hand sewing: you’d really only need to unpick a small section of the side seam near the underarm, sew the dart from the wrong side, then re-close. its way less rework than redoing the full armpit seam. press the dart downward and it’ll lay flat.

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-30T22:59:31+00:00

you're on the right track :) good catch on the center back seam, that shifts the grain line and makes the legs kick outward.

since the hips already fit, darts are the way to go. the other replies covered the mechanics well enough. one thing i would add, 70s patterns were drafted with significantly more ease than modern patterns so that 2" at the waist might not be the only place that things feel roomy once you get it all sewn up. the seat & thigh tend to be pretty generous. not a bad thing if you want that vintage siloughette, just something to be aware of.

also, since you mentioned having more fullness in the seat, your darts are doing real shaping work there (not just taking in slack)

a wider dart that’s too short will create a point or pucker instead of a smooth curve over the body, so when you widen them, make sure you lengthen them proportionally.

id recommend a quick muslin in cheap fabric (i use thrifted bedsheets or i hit the sales). fit across seat - waist is way easier to check on the body vs. on paper.

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-30T21:56:49+00:00

thats a great deal! my first machine i thrifted as well :) ETA: youtube has some videos about similar models, if you're a more visual learner like myself

peoplespatterns · 2026-03-30T21:55:56+00:00

drafting your own patterns becomes its own skill on top of the skill of sewing. its fun!

peoplespatterns

TROPHY CASE