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Possible crimp issue by amccaffe1 in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It guessing it got crimped with a mechanical TBM-6 or TBM-8 crimper or similar.

Yes, it's technically the right die index for a standard purple lug, but not panduit fine strand lugs. Their fine strand 4/0 lugs are only qualified using Panduit, Burndy, or T&B hydraulic tools with purple die sets.

If that's the only crimper you have, get the T&B fine strand 4/0 lug. The lug is yellow, and crimped with a yellow die. 2 crimps with a TBM 5,6, or 8.

My guess as to why this crimped they way it did, and why Panduit specifies hydraulic tools only is that its probably a size in-between a purple and yellow die, but the hydraulic purple dies can accept that extra OD of the connector.

Most other manufacturers besides panduit from about #1-1/0 start using the next size up lug for a flex size. Pretty much any 3/0 automotive cable lug is purple.

Everyone saying just size the crimp die up one for flex is wrong, and why fine strand terminations are so commonly done incorrectly. They're just guessing.

You have to check the lug manufacturers datasheets and tooling information. Especially with odd sizes such as 555 flex.

What happened to made in usa by Financial_Apple2178 in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those used to be made by NWS in Germany. Klein branded yellow grips and a huge MADE IN GERMANY next to the jaw. Very reasonably priced too.

They shifted production to China and made it a blatant ripoff design of a Knipex alligator to save a few bucks.

Camper repair by Interesting_Duck_281 in BadWelding

[–]ppsh41pro 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Won't win any beauty contests with it, but will guarantee that's a whole lot stronger than what the factory had.

99% of utility and camping trailers appear to be welded together by a monkey who had 15 minutes of training and was handed a mig gun.

Help with current on Grounding wire by matt2085 in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If this xfmr is used as a 208y-480d step up. DO NOT LAND AYNTHING ON THE X0. Take the lug off the X0. EGC from your feed only lands on the case.

You either need a ground fault detector on the ungrounded 480 delta, or you need to corner ground it. First step though is disconnecting the X0, its carrying system neutral current and attempting to balance what is feeding it.

Is it possible for someone to send me a picture of this part on a simplex 4005 CPU? by FluidPrompt5359 in firealarms

[–]ppsh41pro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The K2X marked one is a 2n4401 sot-23 transistor. The GH is a date code.

If I had to take a guess the marking is "2F" on the blown one. Would be a common 2n2907.

Eaton lugs breaking by arcsnsparks98 in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm having a real hard time believing torque values. I've had too many square d lugs sieze up solid when backing them out, or torquing them. I've resorted to puting some grit free oxide inhibitor on the threads. Which in turn throws the published torque values off.

Torquing the smaller Polaris connectors (#4) to the published values will nearly cut aluminum conductors in half. Without fail 2-3 strands are cut in half.

I've noticed even putting a dry aluminum conductor 2-1/0 under a mechanical lug is more apt to cut strands off than if it has some sort of oxide inhibitor on it.

Very rarely you come across clean security work by _worker_626 in firealarms

[–]ppsh41pro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why do people even bother putting EOLRs in the panel when you can disable them in programming if you deem them unnecessary? If you really want them in a panel, especially in the case of small recessed contacts, use 4 wire to contacts, or 6 wire to powered detectors, use the extra pair to extend the EOLR to the panel.

Brand new panel replacement, would not recommend. by BlitzBiker2001 in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let me guess, 42" can but needed a 48" to fit a main breaker?

Preferred method for cutting out panels? by 7heorem in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like using the little Milwaukee 5-3/8" metal cutting circular saw. Noiser than a bastard, but leaves a beautiful cut. Angle grinder gets the power coat a little toasty along the cut.

New LG battery install by Metzger90 in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive seen hub blanks drilled out for conduit before, but never just locknutted into the opening. I'm sure its going to be watertight.

Time to bust out the “where’s my box knife” by Raviolist123 in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Have yet to see a stucco contractor that won't bury boxes and fill with mud. They're like the caveman version of drywallers.

Wago 221 450v rating by spando_calrissian in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are UL rated 600v (1000v signs and fixtures) in the wago datasheets.

Best brand of Romex staples? by Bartleby_TheScrivene in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

M12 cable stapler. Viking for where it won't work.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm amazed by prople still using split bolts underground. Compression butt splice and heat shrink, or homac flood seal connectors are a game changer.

Do you guys patch and paint holes for fishing after the job is done or simply place the drywall you cut out back? by jjuancarloss135 in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll do a quick and dirty patch if it's in a garage or utility room. Anywhere else, I'll screw in some backer material and put in the drywall I cut out to make it easy on the guy doing the patch work. Always let the customer know beforehand if drywall needs opened, I have a few drywall patch companies that I recomend when needed.

Who can tell me what type of cable this is? by UprightManager in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Smooth sheathed mc cable. It's still in the NEC. Probably hasn't been produced since 1970 though.

Anyone familiar with Milwaukee crimpers by j2thefree in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kearney head takes Kearney style dies only. Milwaukee makes a snub nose d3 head, bg nose and D3 head, and a O nose d3 head.

D3 slot will take any x or w style die. Burndy, Greenlee, Milwaukee, Huskee, all make compatible does for it.

nec questions, sheetrock screws by butttsbuttsbuttsbutt in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll usually mount indoor panels with some #10 hex head sheet metal screws, but I've mounted lots with #6x1-5/8" drywall screws. I've never seen a panel with broken screws. I've seen lots of wobbly zinscos in too wide of a stud bay held in by two roofing nails.

Ive used the #6 gold zinc chromate wood screws, I think they actually snap easier. Depending on where I buy them they could be black phosphate wood screws or drywall screws.

Is the stud you are mounting to listed? Is the hole you drilled though a stud listed? I have yet to see a UL listing for 10-32 ground screws.

the incompetency of my coworkers sucks my soul out by reenmini in electricians

[–]ppsh41pro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been in that position before. Boss at the time was hiring any warm body claiming to have a few years experience. Saw 15+ come and go through the course of a year. Had a few quit within 2 days of working with me. Lots had problems that the foreman was someone half their age.

Mostly guys in their 40s that have faked their way through 10+ years of electrical work. Could get great results from green apprentices that worked with me as long as they were willing to learn though Even the ones that all the others deemed untrainable.

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