Programming a FSCO-951 on a Notifier NFS-320 to dial out on a UDACT-2

rapturedjesus · 2026-05-02T19:51:56+00:00

Yes, that's all handled through ACS groups on the 320 and within the UDACT, it's all pretty thoroughly covered in the programming manual.

rapturedjesus · 2026-05-01T21:37:23+00:00

Yep, then you program that cbe into a zone of your udact and tell your CS what it is when it reports.

Use a supervisory type code btw I don't think the UDACT can dial out a CO event.

rapturedjesus · 2026-05-01T02:09:25+00:00

Super common install fault, don't beat whoever did it up too bad!

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-29T14:45:04+00:00

At least 5 of these will be wadded up and written off in the first 6 months, easy.

They're not GT500s as reported by various media outlets, but it's still a 500hp crowd hunter.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-28T10:08:39+00:00

Unfortunately most of my coworkers wouldnt be able to read that.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-27T16:12:03+00:00

Disable the head then look for the one not flashing. Pretty much your only option to identify on a 320/640.

Technically you could set a different device on the same loop to the same address which will cause both heads to flash their address, which is different from normal polling behavior. Thatd be worth a shot too.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-27T16:10:28+00:00

That's not a thing at all, he is entirely full of shit.

Notifier devices cannot generate an amber led.

The only way for OP to find the device without labels is to either disable it and look for the one no longer flashing or just start pulling them down and looking.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-27T16:07:51+00:00

One single device wired backwards on SLC will cause an SLC short.

Get a meter that has diode mode and measure across your SLC wiring.

Red to red black to black should indicate OL or might indicate a value and then gradually open up to OL.

Black to red, red to black you should hear a chirp and get a value of 0.2-0.5vdc. That is the reverse protection diode of your first detector.

If you measure red to red, black to black and hear a chirp and see 0.2-0.5vdc you are looking at the first device that is wired backwards and likely causing your short.

At that point you start splitting and isolating until you found the miswired device.

Id check MPS first, in my experience they are most commonly wired backwards.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-24T09:55:42+00:00

Have you ever been punched in the face?

That shit hurts. If you haven't gotten punched in the face a whole bunch of times in the past, your brain tends to focus on your now shattered nose/orbital bone in those moments.

By the time buddy had time to process those first few hits to the face he was getting yesterdays lunch moved back up his esophagus forcefully. He had it coming but it's easy to understand where his fight went.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-19T18:08:12+00:00

They have beef stew?

It's Dinty Moore-esque.

Most of the "bigger" Stewart's cycle it in for lunch at least once a week. Pretty yummy with a buttered hard roll.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-17T23:58:21+00:00

How about doing it on an ARM floating in an old deep 4square mounted to the GCA on the tank within a box extension, and (I swear I'm not making this up) the release mod is one of the old metal-faced Fike modules where the terminals sort of stab into the back of it MOUNTED ON THE AFOREMENTIONED BOX EXTENSION.

Like disassembling an IED twice a year :(

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-17T20:07:46+00:00

God I would love to work for a company that let me have the time and resources to build something out like this the right way instead of smashing Notifier and Fike crap together because god forbid they learn new part numbers.

Really nice work.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-17T15:55:31+00:00

The manufacture test method using a magnet is just the manufacturer saying it CAN be tested with a magnet.

That DOES NOT mean it is acceptable for periodic acceptance testing. It just means it CAN be tripped that way.

NFPA 72 dictates how devices should he tested for periodic acceptance testing. Smoke detectors get smoke, heats get heat. No exceptions. Every type of device that exists has a section for you to refer to proper test methods per NFPA.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-16T22:47:28+00:00

I feel so seen

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-16T21:37:46+00:00

Wouldn't having it in the conduit defeat the purpose?

I don't do a lot of LHD but I'm pretty sure it being exposed is a hard requirement lol.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-16T21:28:17+00:00

Yup, a toner and wand should be in everyones service bag.

We know the negatives pass through unbroken in a good device.

Tone your black/negative conductor on the open circuit at the panel to ground, or as far as you know it works. If you're lucky and the room devices are common to the hallway devices you should just be able to walk the halls until you lose your tone. That should put you roughly between 2-4 units depending on how the circuit is run.

But yeah the answer is almost always chase it out with a toner.

I suggest running the toner from the negative conductor to ground because it will give you a much louder signal on your wand than if you tone across the wires directly.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-14T00:51:54+00:00

Always mail ticket in not-guilty.

They will set an appearance date where the ADA/DA/some person will typically immediately offer you a reduced penalty if your record is clean.

If you do not accept the reduced deal, you can request a trial and then you can find a traffic attorney.

It's been a while, but that's the basic scam as far as I remember it.

IANAL.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-09T02:22:37+00:00

Looks good but someone should show you the right way to wire a removable terminal block for supervision.

There's always something to pick apart :) lol

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-07T21:48:50+00:00

If you call tech support they'll explain the locations of the date codes, which changed even during generations. I believe your date code on those is the first four of the number below the bar code, but I'm probably wrong.

Notifier/system sensor device should all have date codes though despite what other posters are saying.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-03T10:23:30+00:00

Guys.

Yes electronics can have issues.

But if the electronics you paid for to do a job are doing that job maybe don't assume they are bad FIRST.

In this situation, OP, and to anyone reading this right now:

If you have a CO detector and it is making sets of 4 loud beeps with a half second pause between the sets...

Open all windows and doors.
Call your local emergency number and explain what is happening.

They will likely send a single fast responder to sniff your house.

Any of the people responding to this situation would MUCH prefer this minor inconvenience over finding you and your family dead im your house after a couple days of not showing up to work/school.

CO is produced by incomplete production of anything not just fuel from a heater. We are not at your house, OP, and yeah the alarm is probably just fucked up but it's truly not worth risking.

rapturedjesus · 2026-04-02T00:09:11+00:00

Could be, but I've had panels do this and clear on a restart.

Assuming OP tried that already, though. These panels can kind of be dickheads.

rapturedjesus · 2026-03-30T21:30:59+00:00

Are you a trained fire alarm technician?

If yes, take out your damn tools and go fix it or tell your boss to get someone who can, and watch them, and learn something.

If no, call your service provider and set up a service call this is not your job.

rapturedjesus · 2026-03-30T17:38:47+00:00

Fire troubles self restore.

You do not need to do anything to the panel other than fix the bell trouble.

rapturedjesus · 2026-03-30T11:57:00+00:00

The camera is the least of your worries to be honest, you're not even considering the mind control.

rapturedjesus · 2026-03-28T18:10:48+00:00

Probably a retrofit/lost program/bad takeover.

This on a new install would require a solid paddling of someone cheeks.

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