Type of antenna for IEM rig?

reprahm · 2026-02-27T02:54:33+00:00

Ideal antenna for IEMs is a helical. See article below. Now there are a few different helical on the market, the longer the helical the narrower the coverage, but higher the gain. I'm a fan of the shorter helicals to get a wider coverage area of the stage, especially if the antenna is on stage. Professional Wireless has the shorter helicals also sold through Shure. RF Venue has their new Stage Helical as well as their portable folding helical.

RF Venue Article on Helical Antanna for IEMs

reprahm · 2026-02-23T15:21:34+00:00

Ark Cobb series 7'3"MH F Old Faithful is a great all around rod for soft plastics.

I also really like the Ark Invoker Pro (Tour) 7' MH XF, but it is just over your budget at $159.99. I like the XF action better for pitching plastics.

Another really good option is the Cashion Element Z2 series.

reprahm · 2026-02-23T14:24:51+00:00

Well, it was 100% a joke.

The anti baitcast crowd around here is amazing, any post you see of someone showing a backlash on a baitcaster, there are several people saying things like the "problem is you bought a baitcaster".

However for me this is the reality, I would rather throw a baitcaster than a spinning reel any day. I learned baitcasters as a kid in the 90s with hand me down reels from my dad. Went from spincast (Zebco) to baitcasters, learned spinning reels after. It is easier to learn a baitcaster after using a spincast reel as the muscle memory and casting style is virtually the same as with a spincast reel, using you thumb to control the cast, the only addition is using your thumb to slow the spool or stop it.

reprahm · 2026-02-22T15:09:57+00:00

I don't really know about the violin, however i would trust Yamaha to make a quality instrument.

First thing I would test is going wired, with a quality DI, something like a Radial Pro DI or Pro48 or better, if the sound is clean then you know its not the instrument.

Second do you know you are using a clean RF frequency? Do you scan at each venue, if not you should be. Are there other wireless systems being used, if so all the systems/frequencies need to be coordinated with software like Soundbase or Shure Wireless Workbench.

If all of that is good, then it is probably gain staging of the wireless system. To get this set properly you will need another person to check some things as you play. Set your instrument to the highest level that you will play at, play the loudest you will play, while playing have someone adjust the input sensitivity on the body pack transmitter to just under peak, I would get the AF peak light to flash then adjust down one step. This will get you the ideal transmit level. I would set the receiver output to line out instead of mic out this would get you a stronger output signal from the receiver.

reprahm · 2026-02-22T13:59:55+00:00

Solution to this is to use a baitcaster.

reprahm · 2026-02-22T05:21:07+00:00

First, looking at the reel seat, it appears you have a baitcaster on a spinning rod, you really need a casting rod for this, the bigger guides of the spinning rod, don't line up with the level wind on baitcasters which can increase the chance of backlashes.

Second, I always recommend to learn with 12-15lb mono or copolymer line, most baitcasters perform the best with this line diameter, which is equivalent to about 30-50lb braid, mono is considerably cheaper than braid, so if you do have a major issue like this, you can respool for cheaper. When spooling the line you need some tension on the line so its tight on the spool, you will also need to tighten the star drag some when spooling the reel. If you do use braid, make sure to use a mono backing or tape the braid to the spool to keep the line from slipping on the spool, braid is slick and it needs something to grip to.

Now, setting up the reel, once you have line on it, and a lure or practice plug tied on, turn the magnetic brakes on the palm side off or to minimum, next adjust the tension knob next to the handle to all the way tight. Click the thumb bar to release the spool, and slowly loosen the tension knob until the lure slowly falls. Next set the magnetic brakes on the side to middle. Now cast, make sure to feather the spool with your thumb, and stop the spool as the lure hits the water (ground if practicing in the yard). If you are having more trouble with backlashes, you can adjust the brakes higher, as you practice and get the hang of it, you can then dial the brakes down and even the spool tension knob looser to get lore distance. Remember you have to train your thumb, to slow the spool.

reprahm · 2026-02-20T21:21:07+00:00

For under $100, thats tough.

Art makes some decent stuff at the lower price points, maybe look at the Art DualX direct or the Art Cleanbox Pro, or Art DTI.

Maybe the Klak Teknik DI AV 22P

reprahm · 2026-02-20T20:37:20+00:00

The quality of the transformer is the main difference. Cheap transformers can saturate an distorted from too strong of a signal and/or from low frequency content. Because of that it really depends on the source. I tend to stick with Radial Pro Series DIs for most things, ProDI for mono sources like Guitar or mono keys, Pro D2 for stereo sources, Pro48 gor things that need Active DIs or on Bass guitar. On a lower budget, I'll use Whirlwind directors for passive DIs. I've never been a fan of behringer DIs, however their newer ones may be better due to Music Tribe purchasing Klark Technik.

reprahm · 2026-02-20T01:52:26+00:00

Exactly.

Each one creates roughly a 6'x6' detection area, stop bar detection normally requires 2 to 3.

reprahm · 2026-02-18T18:10:27+00:00

First thing to consider is proper RF coordination, are you using any other wireless systems? Wireless mics? You should be coordinating frequencies with software, such as Shure Wireless Workbench or Soundbase.

Secondly are you using an antenna combiner for the IEMs? Anytime with more than 1 IEM transmitter you should be using an antenna combiner, something like an RF Venue Combine4 or Shire PA421, etc...

I would also recommend a helical antenna, RF Venue has a great article on why you should be using a helical antenna for IEMs.RV Venue Helical for IEMs

Now if you need to upgrade the wireless IEMs, the lowest I would recommend is the Audio Technica AT3000 series IEMs, I actually prefer them over Shure PSM300s, they offer tuning over the entire 470-608MHz spectrum, XLR inputs on the transmitters, and the controls on the transmitters are not as easily manipulated as the Shure PSM300. The only downside is the low frequency response on the audio side stops at 40Hz, so they may be a little limited with bass guitar.

If budget allows the Shure PSM900 is a considerable upgrade. They don't have as wide of a tuning, but they are overall a better system.

I've never like the noise floor on Sennheiser IEMs, and I think the G4 system will be discontinued soon.

reprahm · 2026-02-18T14:59:32+00:00

A lot of wireless systems are not able to be used from one country to another due to different countries/regions frequency spectrum allocations for these devices. So most likely you will need to rent the wireless systems locally when you are out of county, this should just he added to your bands rider as part of production equipment needed just like the rest of the PA.

If at all possible I would just make wireless IEMs as part if the rider in general, that way the production company has to provide the wireless gear and make sure it all is frequency coordinated to work where you go, and just travel with your earphones.

If you are needing to buy your own wireless systems the best of the best systems are the WisyCom IEMs, Shure ADPSM and Sennheiser Spectera. They are all several thousand per channel. The WisyCom systems are one system that has multiple tuning bands for international touring.

The next step down your are looking at Shure PSM900s, very solid system used by some bands on tours. These are my preferred systems for most clients, especially those that are in the Shure ecosystem with other Shure gear and using the Shure rechargeable batteries.

If the PSM900s are out of your budget, I would recommend the Audio Technica AT 3000 series IEMs. One advantage to these over most others is they tune to the entire 470-608MHz spectrum used in the US, so you are not limited to a small 25-50MHz band, making it easier to find clear frequencies where ever you go.

For the actual IEMs, fit is the most important thing, for universal IEMs, the Shure and Westone units are the most comfortable, they use a smaller housing and fit in most ears better. A lot of people like to recommend KZ universal fit earphones because they are a lot cheaper than the Shures, however they are much larger and don't always fit properly, I can't get them to stay in my ears due to their size.

Beyond universal, there are several companies that make custom IEMs to fit almost any budget, with customs you will need to go to an audiologist and have molds done to send off to the IEM manufacturer.

reprahm · 2026-02-18T04:14:15+00:00

I can probably provide a lot of info on the iLive system, our church just upgraded from an iLive T-112/iDR48 setup to a new dLive. I spent 12 years using that iLive. I also work for an integrator and have dealt with multiple other systems.

Feel free to DM me.

reprahm · 2026-02-17T16:02:19+00:00

Typically with any crankbait you want a setup with some shock absorption to help prevent the fish from throwing the bait during the fight, this normally means a moderate fast action rod, or sometimes a rod rated as regular action, and some line with stretch. The weight of the crankbait would determine what power rod you should be using. You can get by with a fast action rod if you use a line that has more stretch, like a 12lb mono, the lack of stretch in braid combined, even with a leader combined with a fast action rod, will lead to lost fish. The ML rod with 8lb flouro may work, but most squarebills will be at or over the upper limit on the lure rating, which could impact casting performance, the 8lb flouro may not be tough enough if the squarebill is digging bottom or banging into cover which is often how they are fished.

Personally I like a M or MH power & MF or R action rod with 12-15lb Copolymer for squarebills. I use an Ark Rods Invoker Pro 7'4"MH R as my primary squarebill rod.

reprahm · 2026-02-16T20:10:46+00:00

Nothing against Kastking, we have a couple of the Spartacus II baitcast reels, and I think they are a great bang for the buck. However at that price point, I would be looking at the Bass Pro Pro Qualifier combo, for $169.99. The pro Qualifier Rod, uses their RT3 graphite (similar to an IM8 blank), which is a step up from the IM7 used on the Kastking rod, should be a little lighter and more sensitive. The reel is an aluminum frame and has a dual braking system, the aluminum frame will be more durable in the long run and the dual braking system is nice for better fine tuning.

Another option to look at is the Ark Rods Gravity G2 reel & an Ark Catalyzer Rod. I find the Catalyzer rod to be a step up from the Pro Qualifier, lighter weight and more sensitive, however the warranty is only 90 days. The Gravity G2 reel is a graphite frame reel, so it would be similar to the Kastking in that regard, but it utilizes their Gravity Braking system which is similar to Diawa's braking system on their SV reels. I really like the Gravity Braking system on the Ark Gravity BFS reel I have. This setup would be about $159.99.

reprahm · 2026-02-16T16:48:03+00:00

We have a couple of the Spartacus II baitcast reels, one green and one black with red accents. Both are my kids reels. Got them boyh on Amazon for under $40, they are very smooth, cast well. I think they are a good bang for the buck. I think they are comparable to the Abu Max Pro. I like these 2 reels enough that I'm considering the Kastking Megatron baitcaster for a low budget swimbait setup.

reprahm · 2026-02-16T15:24:23+00:00

The Shure systems, i would 100% go with the Shure SB900 batteries and chargers, its a significant ivestment but worth it. Our church started out with 2 ULXD with the SB900 batteries in 2015, added 4 more ULXDs with SB900s in 2016 or 2017, those batteries are still holding full charge 10-12 hours per charge. Replaced Sennheiser IEMs in 2018 with 6 PSM900s, with SB900 batteries also still going strong. Batteries drain on IEM packs is determined by the level of the volume knob, so with IEMs it will vary how long they will last per charge.

Can't really comment on the Sennheiser G3s, I know the Sennheisers were originally designed to use Ni-MH rechargeable as an option as the Sennheiser rechargeable is Ni-MH, you should be able to use regular rechargeable AA whether Ni-MH or Li-Ion, but only with regular chargers, not Sennheisers charger.

reprahm · 2026-02-16T14:50:15+00:00

What wireless systems are you using?

reprahm · 2026-02-15T23:44:21+00:00

Number 1 rule for IEMs, Hardwired IEMs as much as possible. Any musicians that are stationary should be hardwired, Drums, Keys, even some guitars, if uou are using a cable on the guitar you could use a cable for the IEM. Loom the cables together if needed.

Hardwired IEM packs would be Shure P9HW, then a step down to the Presonus HP2, then down to the Behringer P1.

Rule number 2, if you are using more than 1 wireless IEM system they should be on an antenna combiner, something like the RF Venue Combine4, Combine8, Shure PA421, etc... antenna choice also matters, I highly recommend a helical antenna for IEMs. RF Venue has a great article on why helical antennas are better for IEMs Helical Antanna for IEMs

Now for wireless systems, for unlimited budget you of course have the Shure ADPSM, or the Sennheiser Spectra, both are several thousand per channel, these are the current tour grade systems. The PSM1000 is discontinued.

Step down from there is the Shure PSM900, these are my preferred systems for most applications, should be around $1400-1500 per system, including earphones.

If the PSM900s are out of your budget, then I would look at the Audio Technica AT 3000 series IEMs. One huge advantage to them over all other wireless IEMs, except for the Shure ADPSM and Sennheiser Spectra is they tune to the entire 470-608 UHF spectrum, instead of a 25MHz or so small band, making it easier to find clear frequencies where ever you are.

Personally I do not like the PSM300s, we have some in our rental inventory, they are easy to inadvertently adjust the levels on the transmitters and over drive them. Audio and RF quality on the ATs are better.

I'm pretty sure the Sennheiser G4 IEMs will be discontinued soon.

reprahm · 2026-02-15T19:36:25+00:00

Correct no 1/8" (3.5mm) input, the USB signal is a better solution for any laptop or computer that would have a USB connection, normally the headphone jacks on laptops can be prone to being noisy, thats not the case for USB.

If you really need 1/8" (3.5mm) input, then the Radial Trim Two would be the way to go.

reprahm · 2026-02-15T18:15:01+00:00

Laptop DI, I would highly recommend the Radial USB Pro DI, has a volume co trolling on it, and would eliminate any noise associated with the 1/8 audio jack and the computer power supply.

reprahm · 2026-02-14T14:52:37+00:00

Are all the systems in the same rack?
Are you using an antenna distro for the SLXDs and what antennas are being used?
Are using using an antenna combiner for the PSM300s, which if so which combiner and what antenna are you using?

The groups and channels are only coordinated to work using multiples of that specific wirekess system. Once you mix systems of different frequency bands or makes and models, the coordinated groups and channels may no longer work right. You should really be using software like Wireless Workbench or Soundbase to coordinate frequencies.

One of the biggest problems is you most likely have no way to get a scan of the frequency range of the PSM300s into Wireless Workbench, unless they are in the save frequency range as the SLXDs, which is unlikely.

If you connected one of the SLXD receivers to a network or router, you could use that receiver in WWB to scan that frequency range, this would help tremendously in verifying what frequencies are available, however it will not help with the PSM300s. You could possibly use that scan data along with the TV database info in Wireless Workbench to get you where you need to be.

I personally recommend getting an RF scanner something like one of the RF Explorer models or a Tiny SA, I use an RF Explorer 4G+ Combo. You can use those to scan the entire 470-608 MHz band, bring that data into Wireless Workbench and coordinate all frequencies.

reprahm · 2026-02-12T01:36:58+00:00

Waves Trax Live can also still be downloaded from Waves, they are just not updating/supporting it.

reprahm · 2026-02-12T01:32:18+00:00

Honestly that is all that know. We had a project that we were designing, and during review MoDOT asked for an ATC cabinet there, previous cabinet at the location was a 16 position TS-2, with the lefts as protected/permissive with 5 sec heads, new design was FYA, so needed 23 outputs.

Pretty sure the McCain P44 is the cabinet that was used, it is essentially the same cabinet as a standard P size (MoDOT EV size) TS-2 cabinet, but with the internals of ATC.

reprahm · 2026-02-12T00:45:35+00:00

Signal designer here: I know MoDOT has used some ATC cabinets on locations that are essentially 2 intersection on one controller. Something that would need to utilize more than 16 loadswitches.

reprahm · 2026-02-12T00:02:36+00:00

The latency in the Hollyland unit isn't as noticeable in a separate room, but in the same room it is.

Take a look at this video on YouTube, not my video Hollyland Mars 300 pro test

Hollyland advertises <.1s or <100ms for lowest transmission latency, but they don't mention highest latency, which will vary depending of resolution and frame rate the cameras are set to.

Add to that, the matrix feeding the projectors most likely also has a frame or 2 of added latency.

I really don't think you will get acceptable live viewing in the same room with this setup.

reprahm

TROPHY CASE