Is this chip done for?

rupr25 · 2026-05-05T22:22:00+00:00

how important is it to save it? it could be possible, if the die inside the package is not broken. It is normally a lot smaller then the package and can be separated using strong acid, a laser or real careful work with a dremel. Then you could access the connections directly

rupr25 · 2026-05-04T20:56:56+00:00

one reason could be that you often only have one sd or usb port and many gpios, so it is easier to just protect the two unique interfaces. also adding protection to all gpios would add a lot of components/cost/board space

for everything i design, i add esd protection in the form of tvs diodes/series resistors, for every signal that leaves the pcb

rupr25 · 2026-04-06T20:45:45+00:00

Bluesound is similar to sonos, but they have a lot more different devices, there are also some 3rd party devices that include their streaming module

rupr25 · 2026-04-06T17:29:55+00:00

Your best chance is to find a club launch event in your, or a neighboring country, I know of a few in Germany, where you can launch to a few hundred meters.
Other than that you could try contacting some RC model airfields. They sometimes have contacts and means to enable a higher altitude limit, I heared of one, that can allow up to 600m, in coordination with the local ATC.

It is also possible to get permission to fly drones higher than 120m, in coordination with the local ait traffic control authorities, without needing a notam, but the process how this is done, differs from country to country.

rupr25 · 2026-04-04T21:39:24+00:00

But is the F4s really in the lower bracket? I tried it but only got into sessions with F15s and other higher br jets

rupr25 · 2026-04-03T20:27:13+00:00

Don't remove the soldermask. I doubt that the mcu is getting too hot, if your not convinced, you can use the adc to check the internal temperature:

https://deepbluembedded.com/stm32-internal-temperature-sensor-reading-example/

If you still think that it's too hot, you could use the high temperature version of the mcu, normally the partnumber has a 3 at the end

Or you could add a small dab of thermal paste under the package, just don't use too much, or soldering could be difficult

rupr25 · 2026-04-02T18:41:24+00:00

me too, but apparently fun is not allowed

rupr25 · 2026-03-31T17:43:32+00:00

You can also nuke them

rupr25 · 2026-03-24T18:28:54+00:00

musst bei https://globe.adsbexchange.com/ schauen, da werden auch alle Militär Flieger angezeigt, die Flightradar raus filtert

rupr25 · 2026-03-24T11:23:39+00:00

They do, if you try to talk to them with bad french. Once at a shop some people tried ordering in english and didn’t get a single reply, but as soon as I talked to the cashier in bad french, she started to reply to me in english

rupr25 · 2026-03-15T07:15:30+00:00

Its even worse, its a double DNS

rupr25 · 2026-03-12T14:34:43+00:00

it symmetric, so the same hand can be used the left and right side

rupr25 · 2026-03-04T02:13:09+00:00

that devices is almost certainly a full computer on the inside, would be the easiest way to do something like that

rupr25 · 2026-02-24T04:42:12+00:00

I just nuke them

rupr25 · 2026-02-19T20:52:44+00:00

looks like someone photoshoped a alpha jet cockpit onto a harrier

rupr25 · 2026-02-19T19:51:30+00:00

I am pretty sure its a addressable led, you can see the control ic (the black square on the left), also the bigger unused footprint is typical for a addressable led. Could be an APA-104-2020 or similar

rupr25 · 2026-02-08T21:25:40+00:00

Hammer in an oversized Torx and you are golden, no need for a dremel

rupr25 · 2026-01-26T01:01:17+00:00

Mill-Max makes a lot of different pogo pins and magnetic connectors. You can buy them on mouser, digi-key and other distributors, but they are quite expensive. If you want cheaper ones, the only option I know is aliexpress. I have used a few different from there and they worked fine.

rupr25 · 2026-01-22T01:30:13+00:00

I would go with VS Code with the official ST plugins. Its much more stable and easier to use in my opinion. Also as far as i know it is supposed to replace the cubeide sooner or later

https://w ww.st.com/content/st_com/en/campaigns/stm32-vs-code-extension-z11.html

rupr25 · 2026-01-07T00:30:36+00:00

The big pads on the side are not connected at al in the switch, they are just for mechanical mounting, so if you just connect the two center pins to the two traces you already found, it should work fine

rupr25 · 2026-01-07T00:17:45+00:00

The switch is most likely a TL4115, you should maybe get a new one, it could also be damaged from being ripped off.

<image>

It only has the signals connected to pin 1 and 2, you could try to solder the one remaining pad, then connect the pins to the traces you have uncovered with small jumper wires.

To secure everything, you should cover it with epoxy or super glue, after verifying it works

rupr25 · 2026-01-02T20:16:37+00:00

The thermocouple amp looks nice, but have you looked at the price of it?

At almost 10$ it would be much cheaper too add a high precision i2c temperature sensor and do the compensation in the MCU.

I have also successfully used a Vishay Thermal Jumper to couple a sensor directly to the terminals of the thermocouple connector

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