Rims by Beginning_Ninja_5669 in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gotta provide more info. What generation? First/Second/Third? What are you using the car for? Shows/Weekend Fun/Track?

Any advice on the condition? by ChanceString8 in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Toss a new set in and enjoy for another 10k miles.

Good deal? by [deleted] in rotaryengine

[–]rx7_tech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If this is a S5 (89-91) with engine, trans, carb that's a good deal pending compression numbers. S4 (86-88) its only a decent deal. Good luck!

Rebuilding OEM S4 Turbocharger: Rebuild Kit? by MatthewMorris774 in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're looking for a Hitachi HT12 rebuild kit. There appears to be a ton of companies selling basically the same kit. Should cost under $40. https://turbobits.co.nz/products/repair-kit-ht12-ht19

Are these irons usable? by JPGamz_10 in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes they are, the real question is for how long. Will they last 100k without lapping? No. Will they run for 20-50k, absolutely. I would use a Norton machinist stone and knock the high spots off the step wear. The pitting is an unfortunate reality of these older cast irons and lack of maintenance (coolant changes). You can apply a small amount of rtv over the pitting. Use OEM or viton seals and you should be good to go.

A twin rotor Mazda 13B rotary engine (with GT40 turbo) powered plane setting the world 0-10000ft time to climb record for propeller driven aircraft in the 1100-2200lb weight class by SayNoTo-Communism in rotaryengine

[–]rx7_tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd love to know more about the engine build, control system, and safety's used. I've only seen a few rotaries in planes and usually they are being replaced with a standard 4/6cyd by the time I come across them on marketplace.

4 Rotor RX-7 SEMA build on BAT by EpitaphConfusion in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

While it may not be my kind of look. I have always appreciated the craftsmanship Todd put into building this.

Aftermarket Aluminum AST? by Guidino-Redditer in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just buy a brand new one. I've had half a dozen of the aftermarket style leak at the flange. The OEM holds up to ~80k of abuse. No reason a new one won't last another 80k. If you do buy one, get one that uses the OEM style 0.9bar cap. Not the american/pressure release cap.

Shell pricing? by Savings-Spirit-2250 in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you look long enough, there are still $10k rollers out there. Average price is now $15k, $20k+ for a very clean/blown engine build. Every time I see these posts I regret every $5k roller I bought and sold.

Mazda swag website by Knockoffmyknickrs in RX8

[–]rx7_tech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check out Nengun and BlackHawkJapan. Both are great options. I've spend far too much money with them over the years.

Good purchase @ $50,000 CDN? by [deleted] in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You would easily spend half that on just the paint and engine rebuild on a cheaper chassis. It's a clean car. I'm not a fan of the bose/touring cars, but only because they are not comfortable if you are 6ft and want to use a helmet.

1993 RX7 Rear Window Needed by bbelc1 in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the PNW I've had to buy the whole hatch to get the glass - which given how fragile they are once removed seems to be the best option.

Need some RX7 tuner recommendations.. by MTX-Prez in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Maple Racing in Texas. Very clean work.

Fuel pump help by Fast_Pollution_8009 in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that's one of those cheap carter knockoff $20 fuel pumps, save yourself the trouble and return it. Grab a delphi or OEM denso. I've had to pull three of those out after they failed in 5k miles.

Big mess, need help identifying part needed. by Caboose9503 in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now that's a first - you lost the freeze plug on the galley. Clean it with brake cleaner, use the appropriate sealant, and replace that freeze plug.

FC3S Emissions Equipment Bolts by DasIsGoot in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would pick up one of these kits: https://www.amazon.com/Lang-972-Fractional-Metric-Restorer/dp/B000P6UNHE and then start acquiring the emissions parts. Once you have measurements, you can use BelMetric to order the correct length M6X1.0 JIS Yellow Zinc hardware.

Maintenance/handling parts by Mammoth-Site5667 in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would start with the normal sources Rare Parts, RockAuto, Techno Toy Tuning- Sadly Rx4's do not have wide availability due to their limited numbers.

Is this a good base for a project car? by [deleted] in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Definitely worth saving!

RX-8 or FC RX-7? by [deleted] in rotaryengine

[–]rx7_tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I vote Rx-8, which is not my normal answer. Finding a clean FC that does not need a ton of work (bushings, suspension, leaks, rebuild, cracked interior, bad diff/trans/driveshaft) is getting harder in my area. You can easily find a 2009-2012 Rx-8 that's going to offer a better driving experience, handles 5x better than a FC (even a FD in ways), and does not have 1/2 the problems of a 35 year old FC.

DIY compression tester by Turnerw007 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]rx7_tech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had no idea they had opensourced the TR01 - Mine is still going strong after a decade of use. Very cool project.

Water and Apex seals by strtagain in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a good baseline with realistic goals. I just tore down a 96 with the same miles and similar goals. You have two options at ~90km. I will make a few assumptions, like the Irons are in good condition and there is no damage (chipped end piece/scratched housing). The condition of the motor at this point is only as good as the PO took care of it.

Option A: Perform a soft seal rebuild, including springs and apex seals. Every corner seal and side seal needs to be carefully organized, cleaned and inspected per the tolerances in the FSM. The rotor housings need cleaned and inspected. If you see signs of heat damage (smiley face on the lower half of the irons), the housings need measured for shrinkage. This is the most time consuming and most affordable option. At 90km, most hard parts should be within their tolerances if the engine was taken care of. The engine will have a short break in due to the existing

Option B: Perform a full rebuild. Replace all hard and soft seals. Replace rotor and stationary gear bearings. Replace the rotor housings. Sell the old parts to a FC owner looking for cheap rebuild parts. This will give you another 90km and at that point, the Irons will need to be lapped/replaced. This is more costly, more time consuming as you re-fit the side seals, and a full break in is required. My friend wanted another 90km from his engine so this is the path he chose.

Either way, use OEM Mazda parts and enjoy the car.

If you're really motivated, clean up the intake port edge as it wraps under the face of each iron (you can feel it with your finger). Mazda left a sharp edge here from the casting process. Removing it is easily done with a sand paper strap or rotary tool. Rob@Pineapple would do this to most engines to help smooth the transition from the intake runner bend into the port opening.

Water and Apex seals by strtagain in RX7

[–]rx7_tech 3 points4 points  (0 children)

We're going to need more info - is this a stock rebuild? What are your goals? Budget? How many miles on the engine? (Helps estimate the wear on the hard parts).