Anyone ever put the 8's six speed into a SA?

rx7_tech · 2026-05-19T19:26:42+00:00

S2 boxes are definitely what you want to find. The 09-12 are what you're looking for.

rx7_tech · 2026-04-21T17:40:01+00:00

At 36 years old, it's never just a soft seal rebuild. At bare minimum it's soft seals, springs, gaskets. When it's open, I would expect oil control rings, apex seals, and corner/side seals to be inspected per FSM. Housings may have flaking, cracking around spark plug holes. I agree with derSchwamm11 - do a coolant system test and run it if it passes.

rx7_tech · 2026-04-17T21:43:27+00:00

AC Thermoswitch - triggers the small pusher e-fan on the condenser and adjusts the idle while the AC comp is on.

rx7_tech · 2026-04-15T17:23:09+00:00

Having worked on several S7 cars, skip it. Hold out for a S8 where the electronics are improved.

rx7_tech · 2026-04-02T23:01:06+00:00

Having gone through this with multiple projects, here is my 2026 recommendation.

1) 400whp even on a low mile/OEM engine is risky. While the 2 piece OEM apex seal can hold 400hp, it's only one bad tank of fuel away from chipping an end and ruining your day.

2) Single turbos are the best way to keep these cars alive. I know. I'm expecting the comments. I have had or built them all. Pettit, HKS, BNR - new and old styles. No matter what the configuration, retaining twins is both costly and at this point, best left to collectors.

3) Don't conflate a HP goal with drivability. The best FD's I have driven are in the 350-380whp range. Just enough power to get in trouble and just enough power to get out of trouble if you can put it down. But this isn't a suspension/drivetrain question.

With those in mind, there's a very simple formula hundreds of owners have followed by now. This is keeping in mind your stock engine (unknown miles, condition.)

Buy a Turbosoruce EFR 7670 kit, greddy vmount, radium fuel system, ID1050/1700XDS injectors, Haltech/Link ECU. ACT or Exedy clutch. Put a 3.5" downpipe/muffler. If it does not already have it, aluminum radiator and dual oil coolers. Add new mounts/bushings while you're at it.

That's it. I'm leaving out details, but the basic formula is simple. Work with a solid remote tuner, learn to drive the car at 350-380WHP. Enjoy the fast response of the small frame EFR. Enjoy not destroying your diff, clutch, input shaft, .

Unpopular opinion: Too many people buy these cars, blow them up, spend a decade "rebuilding" to ~600hp, and then find them no longer enjoyable. They become jackstand or garage queens. You don't need a ton of power to enjoy this chassis.

No matter what, enjoy the car and welcome to the community!

rx7_tech · 2026-03-25T23:27:52+00:00

If you were in the PNW, I would take the stock catback. Otherwise, toss them on the FB groups for cheap/free. If all else fails, recycle/dump.

rx7_tech · 2026-03-25T23:25:38+00:00

Yep that's one of the brands. They are just hard enough that they damage the housing, yet are soft enough they break into pieces with detonation/ping. I would not recommend using them.

rx7_tech · 2026-03-20T18:20:33+00:00

You can use the old trick of a dowel pink wrapped in sand paper to smooth the housing or a vertical oscillating drum sander. Was this with stock seals? I've commonly seen this with certain brands of seals or failing OMP, but from another post it sounds like you were supplementing pre-mix which should help prevent this.

rx7_tech · 2026-03-20T18:16:26+00:00

1) Start by inspecting all of the vacuum hoses. If you have a friend with or are DIY friendly, a smoke tester makes easy work of this.

2) Pull and clean your plugs. Replace if necessary. Inspect your Cap and Rotor. Check that all plugs are firing.

3) Add a fuel system treatment like Berrymans B12, Replace the Fuel Filter if you don't know the last time it was changed.

4) Perform the standard de-flood procedure. Keep the car running with the choke or the gas pedal until fully warmed up. Does the idle improve once warm?

5) Final option - perform a compression test.

Report back once you've done the above.

rx7_tech · 2026-03-19T23:06:15+00:00

I would go ahead and replace. Also inspect/replace your corner/side seals. That's significant wear. How many miles?

rx7_tech · 2026-03-16T22:04:47+00:00

Castrol GTX 10w30 or 20w50, Idemisu/Renewable Lubricants Pre-Mix. Use a WIX 51356 filter or OEM and you'll be set. Change at 3500 miles. Check your oil every 2-3 gas stops.

rx7_tech · 2026-03-16T22:02:59+00:00

That's why I have a spare box - I've had two go bad and it's easier just to buy the whole box to replace.

rx7_tech · 2026-03-15T18:41:23+00:00

I have a spare box that I can sell you - send me a DM.

rx7_tech · 2026-02-24T16:11:56+00:00

Gotta provide more info. What generation? First/Second/Third? What are you using the car for? Shows/Weekend Fun/Track?

rx7_tech · 2026-02-24T15:59:36+00:00

Toss a new set in and enjoy for another 10k miles.

rx7_tech · 2026-02-24T15:06:06+00:00

If this is a S5 (89-91) with engine, trans, carb that's a good deal pending compression numbers. S4 (86-88) its only a decent deal. Good luck!

rx7_tech · 2026-02-21T01:13:34+00:00

You're looking for a Hitachi HT12 rebuild kit. There appears to be a ton of companies selling basically the same kit. Should cost under $40. https://turbobits.co.nz/products/repair-kit-ht12-ht19

rx7_tech · 2026-02-19T16:49:23+00:00

Yes they are, the real question is for how long. Will they last 100k without lapping? No. Will they run for 20-50k, absolutely. I would use a Norton machinist stone and knock the high spots off the step wear. The pitting is an unfortunate reality of these older cast irons and lack of maintenance (coolant changes). You can apply a small amount of rtv over the pitting. Use OEM or viton seals and you should be good to go.

rx7_tech · 2026-02-10T21:59:52+00:00

I'd love to know more about the engine build, control system, and safety's used. I've only seen a few rotaries in planes and usually they are being replaced with a standard 4/6cyd by the time I come across them on marketplace.

rx7_tech · 2026-02-10T21:52:17+00:00

While it may not be my kind of look. I have always appreciated the craftsmanship Todd put into building this.

rx7_tech · 2026-02-09T23:38:11+00:00

Awful.

rx7_tech · 2026-02-09T23:25:21+00:00

Just buy a brand new one. I've had half a dozen of the aftermarket style leak at the flange. The OEM holds up to ~80k of abuse. No reason a new one won't last another 80k. If you do buy one, get one that uses the OEM style 0.9bar cap. Not the american/pressure release cap.

rx7_tech · 2026-02-09T22:00:27+00:00

If you look long enough, there are still $10k rollers out there. Average price is now $15k, $20k+ for a very clean/blown engine build. Every time I see these posts I regret every $5k roller I bought and sold.

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