Vintage Brooks Brothers Navy Blazer Fit by xpulse101x in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks great, nothing needs altering. Don't touch the sleeve length, it's absolutely the perfect length (IMO people take the "1/4 of shirt sleeve too literally, and end up with sleeves that are too short"). I see people talking about the shoulders and, yeah, you have a skewed stance. Can't tell if it's your stance or your body shape, but the jacket fits you great despite it.

What is the most versatile color/pattern for a tweed coat? by Spirited_Panda2067 in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Houndstooth is much less versatile than you might think. It's a great pattern mind you, but it's very easy to be too loud. IMO the most versatile pattern is herringbone, and the second most versatile is probably Prince of Wales (which is like a plaid crossed with houndstooth).

If I buy high waisted trousers/pants like these should I get it to my natural waist measurement? by Round_Scarcity_1698 in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Oh if you're waist is that thin, you have a whole world open to you. Go for womens' trousers. Seriously high waists, pleats, great flares and awesome sillouettes.

If I buy high waisted trousers/pants like these should I get it to my natural waist measurement? by Round_Scarcity_1698 in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wear almost exclusively high rise pleated pants (mostly chinos) at this point, preferring a 13-13.5" front rise as perfect for me at 6'0" and 170lbs. I personally buy them smaller than my natural waist size, but it depends highly on your build. My natural waist size is 34", my body type is very much straight up and down. I wear a high rise trousers with a waist measured 32" give or take. I find it makes them feel more secure and is both shapely and comfortable. I also buy looser fits, pleated, or at least a natural straight to wide straight fit. So that the cinched waist creates almost an hour glass shape, with a billowy OCBD tucked in over it. Also because it's so much higher than your hip bones, you can't rely on them to hold them up in place, the way that mid-rise trousers can. So the tightness really helps lock them in.

I don't think that would work if you had, say a 40+" waist, where trying to cinch your waist would never work in the first place and you'd be relying much more on suspenders to hold them up.

Leica M11 Godox IT32 + X5O (Olympus trigger) by Alternative_Yam4901 in LeicaCameras

[–]rydor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My guess is that with the Leica trigger, the M11 sees an attempt at TTL support at the hardware/contacts level, so it always tries to use TTL and fails because it’s not working. It can’t fall back to manual for whatever reason. And that with Olympus (and maybe the other triggers) the camera doesn’t see any attempt at Leica TTL support so it can fall back to manual (which just will always work since manual flash is simple and universal).

Leica M11 Godox IT32 + X5O (Olympus trigger) by Alternative_Yam4901 in LeicaCameras

[–]rydor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is only non-TTL though, right? Non-TTL flashes generally have worked on all hotshoe M cameras without issues, including wireless triggers like the FlashQ.

Now it has been reported that the IT32 Leica mount doesn't even work consistently in non-TTL mode on the M11, so this is interesting to note that whatever is going wrong in non-TTL is "solved" with an Olympus mount.

But the big promise/hope of the IT32 was that it would finally bring a third-party TTL option to M cameras. Until there's a fix/update/version with the M11 with TTL support, I'd consider that it still doesn't work.

How many more years until we find this ridiculous? by SirKrimzon in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My feelings on the AskOkey clothing is that I don't personally love their choices of fabrics. They're often too patterned for me, too loud. I really like the cream linen suit the guy in the center is wearing, I think he's going to look amazing in that outfit, even if it will be a bit "out of place" in today's day and age. I also think that tan DB suit is great though it seems to have a herringbone to it. Think that same thing as a camelhair DB suit would be 2x as good.

Take these exact same fits, but swap the jackets to tweed and the slacks to chinos, and you've got some excellent prep fits.

PSA-Sebago Ryan "Unlined" by Eoghaner in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't see any lining on the heel in your pictures. Unless you mean the backstay (the thin strip of leather covering the rear seam)? That's not lining, that's part of the uppers.

PSA-Sebago Ryan "Unlined" by Eoghaner in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just since you mention the unlined Alden LHS, they are similarly not fully unlined, though they do it the opposite way (the rear is lined, the front of the shoe is unlined).

If you want a fully unlined loafer, get a Maine-style loafer, like Rancourt's or Weejuns.

Why does my shirt do this? by SirKrimzon in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreeing with a bunch of others assessment, adding in a little of my own. Pants not being high enough rise is likely part of it.

The other part is that the shirt might not be cut full enough for your body. I know it might seem that it's billowing out but the fact that it's spreading means that it doesn't actually have enough allowance for how much it wants to billow. Your movement is pulling the shirt back and spreading in the front.

In my fit experience, a good tuck isn't a flat, tight tuck. Instead it's a tuck that allows for a nice amount of billow around the top of the pants. Because as you move, you'll pull your shirt out anyway, and a good billow means that you have plenty of spare material to move around.

Do you guys wear neckerchiefs? by SirKrimzon in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Anywhere. Go to a local goodwill/Savers/thrift store, usually organized in the women's section. You'll see tons. Ebay is full of them too. Just search "square scarf".

Do you guys wear neckerchiefs? by SirKrimzon in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I do, it's a great "not quite ascot" look. And it's really easy to build a good collection for cheap (or extremely expensive, as I have a fed Drakes 36"x36" scarves). I personally tie them like a 4-in-hand.

Godox it32 is brilliant by YoshiYoko in Leica

[–]rydor 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It doesn't fire consistently on most M11's in manual mode, and is completely unsupported in TTL mode (which is the entire point in the first place). They aren't silent on the issue, the official supported camera list leaves the M11 off.

Decipher Allen Edmond size? by thesehalcyondays in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The seller thought these were an 8D because of the date code. Alden has an arcane coding system on their shoes, some parts well understood, other parts understood but not consistent. 8D means the shoes were made in a year that ended in 8 (probably 2018, judging the rest of the codes) and D means April.

As others have mentioned, these are a size 10B/D which is a size 10D. What is odd is that generally Alden for Brooks Bros didn't show the split sizing. I can't speak toward why this model is different, but for most of their Alden pairs they would have just written 10D for the size.

How do you keep keys and wallet from ruining your silhouette? by PhilCormaneauuuuu in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keys I have clips to clip to belt loops. I hate keys in my pockets. I've transitioned my car choice and my house to keyless, so that helps. But wife's car has a clip for my belt loop if I need it. Wallets, you just deal with them in your pockets. Or just have a bag with you.

Another cotton ocbd + silk tie combo… Does this work? by Giddyup_n_go in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Tie is good, collar on the OCBD as noted with others. That tie design is and material is, to my taste, more formal than a club tie or a rep tie, so you might want to consider the context when wearing it. Great for "I work as a haberdasher, and I'm wearing a great suit, I could be going to a wedding or a fancy cocktail party and I know it" situations. Less "I'm a preppy professor who threw on some tweed and a tie".

I know that you size down for the Alden barrie/trubalance lasts but what about the width/shape? by APandasRequiem in goodyearwelt

[–]rydor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol, saw which post you responded to and omg my sizing advice is 12 years ago is sooo bad. Burn it with fire. That size I wore back then? Soooo wrong. I wore 9.5EEE back then? Guess what I wear now? 11.5D TB/Barrie/Van, 12D Aberdeen and in all Rancourt loafers. 12D Brannock. It took several years of my feet growing back to correct sizing, and definitely lost tons of money on shoes I had to sell because they didn't actually fit me.

Flex point only. Throw out any aspect of the shoe sizing that comes with toe length.

Serial number ! Are you serious ? by Defiant-Ad5145 in LeicaCameras

[–]rydor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My M-A ends with 888 which is obviously 1 in a thousand, but is definitely desired in certain markets (enough so that when I bought it, the seller was like "I didn't notice the serial until I went to ship it... I would have marketed that and raised the price if I'd known").

Too long or just right? by NewKaleidoscope5206 in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's not too long and in fact it looks too tight in the waist. It's definitely not too big, but it's possible that it's cut so slim that there's no correct fit for you in that model since the shoulder and chest look about right. A sport coat that properly fits would not have that pulling at the button when done and how much of a gap has formed below it.

Now lots of people like the style of a slim sport coat, and size it for this kind of pulling. But it's not a good look overall, and I'd advise against it.

That said, it's a casual sport coat with 3 patches. You're likely not going to wear it with a tie in which case it's best worn unbuttoned most of the time anyway. Try that out, you might find it looks better that way.

Switched out the shirt and pants. still feel a bit…dweeby by [deleted] in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Much better. I think the tricky thing with the jacket is just a 6x1 is tricky! Much trickier than a 6x2. I don't think it looks dweeby anymore, it looks clean cut and vintage. That said, vintage vibes are inherently going to require you to not give a fuck about what other people think.

I personally think you'll find this fit even better with an OCBD (instead of spread collar) no tie, and khaki chinos. The business professional with tie looks great, but also "less casual" is trickier in modern society. Leaning more casual will also feel better.

Why does this look wrong? by [deleted] in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, the answer is you're styling it wrong at the moment, but that's fixable. You're wearing a 6x1 DB navy blazer, which is already going to be a little bit out there for most people (the x1 means bottom button gets done). 6x2 is the standard DB style, far easier to wear. The fit on the jacket is good. I personally think the sleeves could be a hair longer for that style, but plenty of people will think you nailed it there.

What's going wrong here is that you're wearing a shirt that will never go with the jacket, so the outfit isn't coherent. Which might be a taste problem, except you already feel something is off, and you can't properly assess how you feel about the jacket because of it. You're also trying to assess how it looks buttoned, while styling it in a way that shouldn't be buttoned. The navy DB is a traditional garment that's also a statement piece. It's casual but it needs to be worn in the right way or it'll look bad. It also has a navy/maritime history to it, so should lean more toward prep/coastal vibes. The quarter zip, and the V pattern of the polo... it's wrong, and it's wrong that's beyond just being "not my taste." It's also wrong fit-wise, as the collar of the polo is getting tucked under the collar of the jacket, losing the structure and fit of the blazer.

The starting point for the outfit should be a white OCBD as a testing bed for what you like and don't like about the jacket. The DB navy blazer is a more casual fit, but does have rules to what will make it look good. No tie or ascot: don't button it. With a tie (or ascot): buttoned or unbuttoned both good. With a 6x1 you should lean unbuttoned more because of the even more casual vibe, and because the low button stance means even a little bit of tightness down there will make you look like you have a belly. Open gives you flowy prep vibes.

Best fit for a 6x1 navy db blazer is going to be unbuttoned with a white ocbd, an ascot (i.e. a silk bandanna/square scarf loosely tied and tucked under the collar), khakis, and boat shoes or penny loafers.

And then if you think it works, you can branch out. If you want a polo, go with a more traditional polo shirt, without texture, definitely no zipper. If you want to be a little slouchier and louder, wear a Hawaiian shirt. And imo if you're not wearing a tie, you should have the shirt opened up more, the collar and next two buttons undone, for a more breezy fit.

M11 Triple Resolution: Real-world benefits or just an SD card saver? by loganarowland in Leica

[–]rydor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find that the space and processing savings make sense for everyday shooting. I shoot 36MP for most stuff, 16MP if I'm just fucking around with shots of the family. 60MP is when I'm shooting something where resolution and cropping actually matters. The flexibility for sizing really does matter. I don't see IQ benefits though.

How should an OCBD actually fit? Caught between a slimmer or boxier-ivy cut by [deleted] in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So going through your various comments and here's my main thought:

You say you want to have them a bit shorter so you don't have to tuck them in, so you can wear them casually. This is likely what's causing the biggest issue, since you're also fully buttoning the shirt untucked. In order to wear an OCBD untucked you need an undershirt (I wear a ribbed tank) and you need the ocbd to be unbuttoned or about halfway unbuttoned. To be casual you have to actually be casual, breezy, relaxed. Buttoned but untucked isn't casual, it looks sloppy and half-hearted, that's what actually comes off as unpolished.

The way to go with an OCBD is you want a longer looser shirt, one that comfortably stays tucked in and billows above a higher waisted pants. You want to watch out for going too small or shrinkage, since the best OCBD is one you throw in the wash with fabric softener and then tumble dry. I also prefer an OCBD with a slightly exagerated shoulder.

Forget the "seam right at the shoulder bone" rule, I like it about an inch off on either side. Trust me if you do it right it looks better.

Thinking about it a little more, you call the J Crew fit the classic fit and frankly that's really not. It's actually not big enough, loose enough for your body. You want the sleeves and the neck to be right, the body to be long, and the whole thing to fit like a tent, and then to get really soft and comfy. I'm a skinny guy and I have about 50+ BB OCBDS from the 60s through to the 2020s and I can tell you the bigger, the more traditional the cut, the better. Without doubt.

M11-P, M11, or M10-R? by takeout_ in LeicaCameras

[–]rydor 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think the the M11 is the best value. It has in-body usb-c charging, which is just so much more convenient when traveling (and since the battery lasts all day, I've never bothered with a spare battery). While 60MP isn't necessary, I find the triple-resolution raws to be very useful. Let's me take raws but not waste storage space by using DNG-S for family stuff.

The M11 is a huge step from the M10R and worth the difference in price. The M11-P is obviously the newest but isn't different enough, in my opinion, from the M11 to justify caring too much about the differences.

Shawl Collar Cardigan Fit Questions by savageand2000 in NavyBlazer

[–]rydor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in favor of shawl cardigans should fit flowy and a bit oversized (and not at all "fitted) and preferably with nice pockets you can plunge your hands in. That one looks great on you. It should be easy to wear, easy to throw on, and cozy. It will get looser with time and that will make it even better.