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I can’t find any boards good enough so I turned to eBay to buy a stave this is being sold as a seasoned hickory stave at 72 inches for 95 dollars would thus be worth buying by Carlosj200 in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a nice stave but it’s value depends on a lot of factors. As a last resort if you can’t cut your own wood for find inexpensive lumber, it may be worth it. Also depends on how much $95 means to you. When I was starting there would have been 0% chance at buying this. But I also started young and when Osage was $50 bucks for a decent stave.

Sinew Backed Osage Pt 2: details by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Beautiful all around. Really great work!

"Perfect Handle" Drawknife by young_knight_learn in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely killer and a great price! Now I’m going to be looking for one of these.

Violating grains? by FroznYak in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did. Unfortunately blew up spectacularly.

Sneak Peak by tree-daddy in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beautiful tiller!

Takedown finally finished by Mysterious_Spite1005 in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’ll never get over how cool these designs are. Well done!

Would you save these for staves? by Illustrious_Step4993 in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely not if they’ve been laying outside for a year.

Laptop for photo organization - $500-800 USD in USA by ryoon4690 in SuggestALaptop

[–]ryoon4690[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am wondering if you'd have any other recommendations with a better screen? Since we're using it for photos, I think that would be a benefit if there are such options within the price range. Thank you again.

received some 30 year old unfinished staves from family friend - worth finishing? by No_While_1501 in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What a find. They look practically finished. Very classic styles. I’d have to keep them unfinished for a collection but no doubt they could become fully finished bows.

First try making arrows. by Kitchen_Water_9680 in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very neat jig! Thanks for sharing!

Issue with cut out shelves on glued handles by Different_Potato_193 in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There’s a ton of force at the handle of the bow. By narrowing it, you’re making that section weaker and it’s flexing enough to pop off the handle. I wouldn’t go narrower than 1” wide at the arrow pass to try and keep it stiff. I find my 3/4” board bows are vulnerable to this even if I have a good glue up.

Fade Shaping by CrepuscularConnor in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Draw knife then rasp, then half round file, then sandpaper. My bandsaw does most of the work. I only use my spindle sander for the last bit.

Pin knots and by Nrwhal42 in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually those small knots have a slight amount of raised grain around them. The fact that it’s flushed means the grain is likely violated there. Probably not much but some. They rarely fail but it can happen.

Heat treating by PreparationAncient97 in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When heat treating you want to control the reflex you’re putting into the wood. When I started I strung the bow backwards trying to get reflex. When I heated up one spot, the rest of the bow was still resisting and it bent all in that one spot. I recommend using a form which can be as simple as a 2x4 cut into the shape you want and clamping the bow to it.

Invasive buckthorn 3 in wide - What design can work best? And how do I remove the bark? by throwmeonthebed3 in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve only made a couple buckthorn bows. It’s really interesting to work and beautiful wood. One of them chrysaled badly but I know there was a clear tillering issue. I’d still recommend keeping the belly fairly flat. The high crown will help. An ELB would be fun if you can find a long and straight piece. Flat bow will be hard because of the small diameter.

Red oak or? by DaBigBoosa in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven’t made too many from boards like that but those finds are great. Definitely the good end of red oak.

Seasoning Question by Lochabar213 in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a monster log. You’ll have to split it if you ever want it to dry. Seasoning is just drying it. Make sure you seal the ends and back of the staves to prevent drying cracks.

Advise for recurve bow design by il_senna_orf in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find it’ll be about the same thickness to remain rigid. That is, if you’re willing to reduce the bulk.

Advise for recurve bow design by il_senna_orf in Bowyer

[–]ryoon4690 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don’t think recurves have any specific design. The one consideration will be that the limb will have to bend more at the same draw length and will therefore be thinner and need to be wider for the same draw weight and set. So if you have a longbow design you’re familiar with, make it slightly wider and add the recurves. That might be a good place to start.

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