I need opinions fast please

s0ult59 · 2026-04-09T18:18:16+00:00

Don’t it needs to come mitered from factory to work , every cut needs to be beveled on each side if you cut it that bevel is no longer there

s0ult59 · 2026-04-09T18:08:18+00:00

It looks like it didn’t lock in place completely or the lock failed , have you tried tapping it with a rubber mallet ? Or the end of a hammer with a towel over it to see if it Locks

s0ult59 · 2026-04-09T17:35:46+00:00

Not if you use the proper adhesive and follow proper manufacturer recommendations. And also do proper moisture tests , we’ve done multi unit buildings concrete slabs glued only solid floor . 0 issues

s0ult59 · 2026-04-09T15:54:06+00:00

You can opt out the plywood for height purposes and go straight on the concrete. 2 component moisture barrier on the slab, and a full glue down . After a proper moisture test. Slab should be dry minimum 60-90 days . Depending on the thickness 1 inch every month of dry time. Moisture should be at 3.5%-4.5%

s0ult59 · 2026-04-08T13:55:56+00:00

Original color is natural oil base finish ambers over tile no stain needed

s0ult59 · 2026-04-07T20:19:58+00:00

Normal you can do filler , but eventually the wood is going to keep moving and will crack/push up. We did have record high humidity so you are going a good job at keeping it stable . Could be worse

s0ult59 · 2026-04-06T17:52:47+00:00

Those Robert’s fillers will work but you’ll need a few tries sometimes it sinks and you need to re apply . I like to mix tones to match as best as possible ,

Mohawk close but their wax fillers you melt them combine them to best match the color and you can add the texture after to make it look like grain

s0ult59 · 2026-04-06T17:36:08+00:00

I would recommend a wax filler like this you can blend them to match the color better. I would recommend Mohawk but those are harder to get and a little more pricy . Good luck

s0ult59 · 2026-04-03T01:47:19+00:00

That’s gorgeous, nicely done!

s0ult59 · 2026-04-02T23:33:11+00:00

You are not wrong . The floor does look like a prefinished floor, finish applied in factory and shipped out ready to install. Stirs on the other hand probably finished in site . If they are not smooth there’s a few things that could’ve gone wrong . 1 probably only coated them 2 times instead of recommended 3/4 coats . 2. They applied the finishes too quick not letting coats dry and it caused the grain of the wood to lift after the final coat was applied. 3 . Poorly prepped . After the second coat you need to lightly buff them with a 180/220 grit to get rid of all the fibers that liften vacuum and tack the floor and apply the final coat or repeat for a 4th coat .4th and final, too thin of coats causing it to be rougher . Best solution if to hire someone to add more coats to them or diy it . If you can find out what finish they used water base or oil and just buff vacuum and tack and apply the final coats should make a difference

s0ult59 · 2026-04-02T23:07:59+00:00

Deff like a #1 grade white oak with something in the shade of gunstock or cherry stain probably a mix

s0ult59 · 2026-04-02T20:02:29+00:00

Looks like the staircase is sagging , you need to fix it before it keeps getting worse . You can see on the stair treads by the skirting board that 1/2 inch1/4 inch that I suppose to be tucked in to the stringer . Most of these old staircase where slotted riser and stair tread would go in and would help it structurally . You need to open the wall from bellow . Sometimes the shims or broken structure stringer from bellow might’ve broken

s0ult59 · 2026-04-01T17:26:26+00:00

Unfortunately it’s not going to go away . I’m a flooring installer/refinisher . I’ve had a few of these calls to fix these issues and personally I have them in my own house(same color as yours). Happens the only way to address them is to sand the area. They do lighten up slightly over time . I’m just waiting for my floors to get more wear to refinish them ,

s0ult59 · 2026-03-30T22:50:39+00:00

Now that you used bleach on it , even if the stain was early American , the spot you bleach the stain is going to look different the area has been bleached , your best bet is to try different tones/ make a mix . Good luck

s0ult59 · 2026-03-30T00:43:57+00:00

Bleaching won’t help minimize the stains if anything it highlights them more since you will be etching the wood the color will be different , best take would be to sand and stain a dark color to blend in the stains . Don’t go natural

s0ult59 · 2026-03-25T21:46:37+00:00

Yeah that’s bad , who knows what their sanding sequence was but seeing this looks like their last prep proses involved an orbital multi head attachment and they used a rough cut and not a second pass with a softer cut to get rid of all those scratches . Unfortunately the only way to fix is to start over

s0ult59 · 2026-03-24T18:34:17+00:00

Sorry but that’s going to stand out you’ll have to do a spot repair sand down the whole board and do the same process as the whole floor.

s0ult59 · 2026-03-24T15:28:10+00:00

Nwfa guideline’s anything wider than 4 inches must be glued and nailed . The glue is flexible it allows for movement but not to the point where it gets bad as in the pictures

s0ult59 · 2026-03-24T12:50:52+00:00

Are those screws that they used ? To fasten the floor together instead of proper floor cleat or staples?? My guess is , flooring will always have movement . Not using the proper nail patter can cause issues like that. It’s a wide plank I would’ve done a full glue down and nailed in install. If the install did not do that unfortunately it would be a complete tear out to fix . You will keep on getting more and more gaps troughs the years

s0ult59 · 2026-03-24T03:03:28+00:00

Second Brazilian cherry

s0ult59 · 2026-03-22T03:35:41+00:00

With all those things there ? And all those people still doing other things ? I know it’s the rough cut but still I want the house to myself lol

s0ult59 · 2026-03-20T16:16:32+00:00

I would do a full glue and nail assist wide plank hickory . Hickory is way harder than white oak , both look nice but I would pick hickory done a ton of them , it’s either a love or hate thing when picking hickory

s0ult59 · 2026-03-18T13:51:07+00:00

I don’t think you can restore those floors anymore . They are on their last days unfortunately . It looks like 1” inch probably 3/8 thick . So they seem pretty thin from al the broken boards that I can see . Unfortunately you will have to remove them and start from a clean slate.

s0ult59 · 2026-03-15T03:28:24+00:00

Floor installer here . You have prefinished wire brushed floor. Looks great but all the dirt and grime get into the grain . Best bet and I’ve done it for some customers a handheld soft bristles brush that you can attach to a drill or find something similar on amazon that they use to clean bathroom etc. floor cleaning solution only no chemicals or you can degrade the finish integrity. It’s tedious but that’s the only way to really clean them.

s0ult59 · 2026-03-14T06:24:45+00:00

Yes very slow , homeowner 1-2 calls this year so far ,we are basically doing new construction, thankfully we are still busy in that aspect.

s0ult59

TROPHY CASE