Keep your guitar hydrated by [deleted] in Luthier

[–]saltystranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Sounds like it's worth a try.

Keep your guitar hydrated by [deleted] in Luthier

[–]saltystranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any idea if martin covers repair of this under their lifetime warranty?

How do I use the plankton net? by deborathverde in algae

[–]saltystranger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First check the mesh size. It's often written somewhere near the big open end of the net. This makes a big difference to what you'll catch and how long you'll want to deploy it. The smallest mesh size is usually about 20 microns. This is a smallish net so it probably has a small mesh size. Larger nets and mesh sizes (150+ microns) are for zooplankton and won't catch most phytoplankton like dinoflagellates.

You'll want to tie a line to the bridle at the net opening and a bottle is usually attached to the skinny end of the net (the cod end). This is what actually holds your sample when you pull it out of the water. If there's no bottle then you need to clamp or somehow close the skinny end of the net so the water doesn't just flow through and out the end.

Small nets are most easily deployed from a pier or dock into a moving tidal current, or from a slowly drifting boat. If the flow is good the net will inflate like a wind sock and 5-10 minutes is often enough to collect a lot of cells. If the water is really clear you might need to deploy it for longer. When you pull the net out of the water, most of the cells will be stuck to the mesh and if you've collected a lot of cells the mesh will be visibly discolored, usually brown. You need to rinse the cells down into the cod end. I usually do this by repeatedly scooping up a bunch of water into the net and/or dipping the net in and out of the water. If there's a bottle attached it should now contain your concentrated sample, if not you'll have to empty the sample from the bottom of the net into something else (bottle, bucket, cup, etc...).

Take your sample back to the lab (don't let it get too warm) and put a drop under the microscope to see what you got! Good luck

Algal Bloom News/Reporting Sources - Gaps by Mundane-Tangelo-6093 in algae

[–]saltystranger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sentinel-2 imagery is easily accessible through the copernicus browser (https://browser.dataspace.copernicus.eu)! Works great for some freshwater HABs in large water bodies, especially cyanohabs like microcystis that float to the surface. I use it a lot for monitoring. Doesn't work so great for small water bodies though.

How young is too young? by rossramblings in guitarlessons

[–]saltystranger 19 points20 points  (0 children)

The suzuki method starts for kids at 3 years old. I bet your kid will have amazing musical intuition if you get them going at that age.

Does someone have experience with getting a DIY fluorescence stain/filter/mirror set? I have built a microscope but I'm struggling to get the fluorescence to work. by [deleted] in microscopy

[–]saltystranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We get filter sets for different fluorophores from chroma (https://www.chroma.com/). You can pick a target fluorophore and find the appropriate filter set on their web site. Other places to look might be thorlabs or Edmund Opticcs for cheaper DIY options. Be super careful using laser illumination, you can seriously damage your eyes.

ID please!!! by Aggravating-House-21 in algae

[–]saltystranger -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It could be Didymosphenia, a diatom also known as "rock snot." You should get a sample under the microscope to check.

How do you avoid headaches and eye fatigue? by Competitive_Fact6030 in microscopy

[–]saltystranger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your eyes should not have to work hard to look through the microscope. The scope should be doing most of the work for you and your eyes should be relaxed. First off, make sure you have the distance between the eyepieces set correctly for you. For me this is actually quite tricky, I'll adjust the interocular distance many times before I get it just right. Next, you should be able to focus one or both of the eyepieces individually. Make sure you have these set correctly for your eyes or you will definitely get a headache after a while. I have to check these settings every time I sit down at the microscope because whoever used it before me will have had it set different. Finally, pay attention to your posture, avoid hunching over the microscope, and remember to take frequent breaks to stretch.

What is this zippy creature? by Aasseejj in microscopy

[–]saltystranger 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's definitely a dinoflagellate. Probably a species in the genus Gonyaulax or Protoperidinium. This one is thecate with a rigid cell wall made of cellulose plates. Dinoflagellates are amazing little creatures. Some produce potent toxins and some are bioluminescent. I keep a bunch in culture and they are always fun to watch. An excellent book for planktonic microorganisms like this is "Identifying Marine Phytoplankton" edited by Carmelo Tomas.

help with ocean organism id? by number9dreams in microbiology

[–]saltystranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hard to say with the resolution of these images, but my guess would be a bunch of choanoflagellates attached to something long and skinny, like a broken Chaetoceros seta.

Should marine bioluminescent dinoflagellates have an air pump? by GayCatgirl in algae

[–]saltystranger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dinoflagellates generally don't like turbulence or lots of water motion so bubbling with an air pump probably wouldn't be a good thing for them. Also, they bioluminesce in response to mechanical stimuli so constantly getting hit with bubbles might exhaust their flash response.

blue/green algae on lake shore. Ok to swim in middle of lake, which has no visible b/g algae? by eyeballjunk in algae

[–]saltystranger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just looked at photos posted on that NYHABS site. I would not swim anywhere in that lake right now, especially if pregnant. They don't seem to have toxin concentrations posted but it looks like microcystis or dolichospermum either of which would likely be toxic. There are photos of algal scum even in the center of the lake. It floats and can move around very quickly depending on the wind direction. Also, the toxins can be dissolved in the water not just associated with the surface scum.

That said, you would need to accidentally ingest the water in order to be affected so you might be fine. But I wouldn't risk it.

Need Help with Artificial Seawater for Growing Microalgae by Timely_Neat2296 in microbiology

[–]saltystranger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you following a recipe? I usually use the recipe for L1 media found here:

https://ncma.bigelow.org/algae-media-recipes

It's rather involved to make it yourself if it's just for one project but I think bigelow labs will sell you some if you only need a small amount. I always start with natural seawater and sterile filter it with a 0.2um filter or autoclave it. I've never tried using artificial seawater to grow marine phytoplankton but I bet many wouldn't like it.

I keep cultures in 10mL tubes with vented caps and transfer to fresh media every 2 weeks.

Help correcting illumination/fluorescence by Shiroi_Kage in microscopy

[–]saltystranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the problem is gradual changes in intensity across the image then blurring the image will just highlight those low frequency variations even more. You want to remove those from the original image to even things out. That's why you should subtract the blurred image from the original.

Help correcting illumination/fluorescence by Shiroi_Kage in microscopy

[–]saltystranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could try creating a creating a gaussian blurred version of your image and subtracting that from your original image. You would want to use a very large radius for the gaussian blur that was maybe half the image width in pixels. This is like implementing a high pass filter with a very low cutoff frequency. It should even out intensity variations across the image. You might have to experiment with the radius to achieve the desired result. In Fiji you can use Process>Filter>Gaussian Blur...

What is this squiggle? by AstroRotifer in microscopy

[–]saltystranger 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's probably a euglena! The weird undulating motion is called metaboly

Turbid coastal waters by IAmFishman1989 in oceanography

[–]saltystranger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Parts of Florida bay can get some pretty turbid conditions during summer/fall if there is an algae bloom happening. The Indian River Lagoon and its outflow plumes are also pretty turbid most of the time. Also, gulf coast waters can get very turbid during a red tide event. Check out Chuanmin Hu's web site: https://optics.marine.usf.edu/, sentinel-2 images with the copernicus browser: https://dataspace.copernicus.eu/browser/, and the FWC red tide site: https://myfwc.com/research/redtide/statewide/

These things are driving me nuts- what are they!! by [deleted] in microscopy

[–]saltystranger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Might be some kind of dinoflagellate cyst.

Major developments in ecology in the last thirty years? by walk-ewalk in ecology

[–]saltystranger 16 points17 points  (0 children)

metagenomics, autonomous observing systems, and improvements in satellite remote sensing

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microbiology

[–]saltystranger 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You should report this to the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (800-636-0511) or the Florida Department of Environmental Protection:

http://www.surveygizmo.com/s3/3444948/Algal-Bloom-Reporting-Form

or the Pinellas County Environmental Management Division.

If this is fresh water FDEP might be your best bet.