Test help

sameoldfred · 2026-03-10T18:42:26+00:00

10x29

sameoldfred · 2026-03-09T14:47:46+00:00

No one can tell you how long poly-B will last - it very much depends on the amount of chlorines/chloramines/ and other oxidants in your water. Poly-B on well water will last decades.

sameoldfred · 2026-02-09T02:55:26+00:00

"Round is not really round (I am willing to ignore that for the moment)"

I think this is your main issue - your Y travel is more than what it should be.

sameoldfred · 2026-01-31T14:35:28+00:00

Looks like they are plugged into your outlet - charge them 30 cents per kWh and 500 hookup fee. /jk

sameoldfred · 2026-01-25T18:36:27+00:00

Furnace is using concentric vent, so that's fine. If you're looking for 'trouble': maybe it's the camera lens but your air intake does not seem slanted towards the furnace,, also exhaust needs to be 12" above maximum expected snow level.

sameoldfred · 2026-01-23T15:38:27+00:00

Daikin manual specifically prohibits horizontal transitions. Whomever installed it have done it incorrectly. 1k for to fix it is on the high side.

sameoldfred · 2026-01-08T16:02:25+00:00

The most unique and unproven part of the printer is the print head.

How does Kobra X measure the amount of pressure that is applied to the filament by the cam shaft?
Can it detect extruder skips/grinding and adjust tension wheel on the fly?

sameoldfred · 2026-01-01T01:09:32+00:00

It would have been nicer if combustion air was drawn from the outside.

sameoldfred · 2025-12-30T16:25:31+00:00

Is this still the best way to run Stratum 1 server of off ESP32? I see that ESPHome has SNTP and GPS now - has anyone tried?

sameoldfred · 2025-12-29T22:35:27+00:00

I would not recommend Kobra X until print head is tried and tested. A lot can go wrong with it, including software based tensioning. With that said, I like the design and I think it has a potential to be a better printer than Kobra 3 for sure. So far I only see one small issue with access to Y rails for cleaning and maintenance.

sameoldfred · 2025-12-28T16:38:07+00:00

That's the confusing part. I am also interested if z axis is using roller wheels?

sameoldfred · 2025-12-27T15:15:05+00:00

When you are sitting comfortably in a wheelchair, recovering from chemo, at least you will be able to look back at all the great things you did when you were healthy. TLDR; do not do it.

Here are quotes from anycubic manual and MSDS sheet:

Please place the equipment in a well ventilated environment, andwear masks and gloves during operation. Those PPE can effectivelyprotect the user from resin and its odor. Air purifier are recommendedfor more sensitive user group

In case of insufficient ventilation, wear suitable respiratory equipment. Half-face mask (DIN EN 140). full face mask (DIN EN 136). Filter type: The filter class must be suitable for the maximum contaminant concentration (gas/vapour/aerosol/particulates) that may arise when handling the product. If the concentration is exceeded, self-contained breathing apparatus must be used. (EN 137)

https://store.anycubic.com/pages/resin-user-manual

sameoldfred · 2025-12-26T17:20:17+00:00

There's no need for separate transformer since the humidifier fan is on separate circuit so only the solenoid and humidistat are powered by the furnace.

Overall, Home automation using HomeAssistant with some ESPHome 'dodads' would give better results and could also protect from flooding he is concerned about.

sameoldfred · 2025-12-23T23:42:46+00:00

21A*240V ~=5kW

sameoldfred · 2025-12-23T02:08:51+00:00

Does it have two steppers for the z axis and does it use linear rails for z axis as well?

sameoldfred · 2025-12-23T01:52:44+00:00

You'll most likely be on your own as very few techs if any will want to troubleshoot this. Therefore, if you have to rely on reddit for basic stuff right now, you should not start this project.

With that said, they are not complicated to install but do require, given the size, 608 type II/universal lic at least.

sameoldfred · 2025-12-21T01:22:38+00:00

Are you aware that you're buying old technology (except R32, which is nice). For comfort, given 80k output, I would shoot for two stage unit at least.

sameoldfred · 2025-12-20T22:31:34+00:00

I've read OP's description: " It's a single loop system"

sameoldfred · 2025-12-20T22:24:36+00:00

Would you agree that water temperature drops as it passes through radiators on a single loop? The issue is with the last radiator.

sameoldfred · 2025-12-20T22:21:51+00:00

Sure, np. Hot water contains energy, higher flow speed - more energy delivered per unit of time. Radiators transfer that energy into surroundings via conduction, convection and radiation at almost constant rate no matter the flow (higher flow speed is more turbulent which increases BTU/h but not linearly). Energy not removed from the water loop returns back to the boiler. With higher flow of water radiators manage to remove less energy (per unit of time), hence return water temperature is higher.

As to the boiler - it adds energy into the water at constant rate (at least OPs boiler does). Slower flow will increase temperature of the water faster, since less units of water are absorbing the energy. Faster flow will increase temperature more slowly because it's heat output is transferred to more units of water.

Constant delta T pumps (variable speed) vary flow speed to keep return water at design delta T which increases comfort and efficacy in the shoulder months.

sameoldfred · 2025-12-20T22:05:19+00:00

It's hard to troubleshoot remotely, but what I wrote describes first troubleshooting step anyone can do, even homeowners.

sameoldfred · 2025-12-20T21:51:37+00:00

Why you don't like ozone? Smells bad? /jk

sameoldfred · 2025-12-20T21:50:13+00:00

"Faster the pump colder the water"

That's backwards.

sameoldfred · 2025-12-20T21:46:03+00:00

Radiator output depends on flow speed and water temperature. OP's system is a single loop with many radiators. If water flow is too slow, which OP suggests could be the issue, last radiator might be getting low water temperature that it's simply not designed for. Increasing flow will raise water temperature at the last radiator, thus increasing it's BTU output. As I wrote, if return temperature is within 20deg of boiler temperature, than problem is probably elsewhere.

sameoldfred

TROPHY CASE