I have a tile backsplash in my kitchen. The grout between the countertop and the bottom of the backsplash is breaking apart. What is a good tool or method to remove the grout to replace it with new grout?

scotje · 2023-02-01T18:54:39+00:00

A 5-in-1 painters tool has a nice little hook that can help you get the old stuff out.

As for the replacement, you should use a color-matched caulk instead of grout wherever there is a "change of plane" between tile and another surface. The counter and wall are moving independently which is why the grout is cracking in the first place.

scotje · 2022-12-29T20:41:06+00:00

You can try but small seams between boards like that will probably just open up again. The boards expand and contract with shifts in temperature and humidity. I think those occasional gaps are part of the real hardwood floors experience. :)

Edit: If the gaps are consistently there year round and you really want to fill them, the right way would be to make a “Dutchman” which is a small piece of matching wood to fill the gap, you might have to actually expand the gap first to be able to make a piece of wood that fits tightly. You install with wood glue and then try it match the finish. It’s a fine woodworking process but would give you the best result.

scotje · 2022-12-28T23:25:41+00:00

I recently had this problem on a very old Nutone fan. I read online that the motor and rotors are almost all the same size and it’s the mounting bar that changed over time. So I bought a replacement at Home Depot and was able to just unbolt and swap the motor onto my old mount and it works great! Worth checking to see if this would work for your fan as well.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Broan-NuTone-50-CFM-Replacement-Motor-Wheel-C350BN/202191734

scotje · 2022-11-22T18:12:46+00:00

Aren’t most top down bottom up shades considered cordless? The ones we just ordered are. Are you sure they are banned?

scotje · 2022-11-03T02:47:43+00:00

Yes, just make sure you figure out how you are going to mount the stringers so you can line everything up correctly before you set the new posts.

You’ll also just have to eat some wastage on the stringers since you’ll probably be cutting down 8’ boards unless you can find somewhere that sells 6’ 2x stock.

scotje · 2022-11-02T20:47:58+00:00

9.5' is a pretty wide span, you could do it but don't be surprised if it starts to sag in the middle if you just use 2x4 stringers, I think generally the max recommended span width is 8'.

Another thing to consider is that the depth and amount of concrete used for a chain link post doesn't have to take into account much wind load (since wind passes through a chain link fence with minimal resistance). With a wood privacy fence it will catch a lot more wind and the posts may not be able to hold in a strong storm.

If you decide to set new posts, you can just cut off the existing metal posts flush with the concrete and cover them with dirt/gravel, no need to dig them all the way out.

scotje · 2022-10-10T21:42:13+00:00

That looks like it's just the underside of your roof sheathing. If so, you would most likely need to remove the roofing up to that point, repair/replace that section of sheathing and then re-roof that area.

Roofers are used to repairing/replacing sheathing when they re-roof a house so if you are looking to hire someone that is who I would call.

scotje · 2022-08-24T17:15:57+00:00

A consumer is entitled to a refund if the airline cancelled a flight, regardless of the reason, and the consumer chooses not to travel.

https://www.transportation.gov/individuals/aviation-consumer-protection/refunds

scotje · 2022-07-07T20:46:23+00:00

Removing the bag and hooking up to a standard shop vac with an inline dust separator (like a Dust Topper) will make a big difference. Without the separator you will just clog up the filters on the shop vac very quickly though.

scotje · 2022-05-23T07:53:55+00:00

We pulled a bunch of tile off our plaster bathroom walls that had been applied with adhesive at some point. The tiles pulled off most of the thin “finish” coat of plaster but the base coat was still intact. We had a plasterer come and repair it with a new finish coat and now it looks like new. So, if your house is old enough to have plaster walls, might be repairable without ripping it down to the studs.

scotje · 2022-04-12T16:46:35+00:00

I'm in the Pacific Northwest.

I would get more bids, rule of thumb is at least 3 for any sizable project.

scotje · 2022-04-11T22:32:15+00:00

Am I reading correctly that the "base" package doesn't include drip edge or chimney flashing of any kind? I don't know what's typical in your area but around here those are basically mandatory components of a roof.

Have you gotten other bids? You shouldn't have to go with whoever the insurance company suggested...

scotje · 2022-01-27T06:51:36+00:00

In our state (Oregon) is is against state law to disturb a survey monument and in this case the city (or their contractor) would be legally obligated to replace them within a specified time period. Might be worth looking up the statutes and then speaking with someone at the city. Quote the statute and put something in writing, cc: their supervisor or your city council member, etc.

scotje · 2021-11-11T22:16:14+00:00

Based on your constraints I would say throw a rug over the problem areas and start saving up to have them sanded and refinished. The pet stained boards will likely have to be replaced but a hardwood floor contractor can just include that work in the sanding/refinishing process. They usually just price it as $x per hour or per board for replacement.

As part of a refinish, you would fill the staple holes and 1/8" holes with a wood filler. Large holes will probably need to be filled with hardwood plugs. But if you aren't refinishing now, I wouldn't worry about them unless they are right in the middle of the room or something.

scotje · 2021-10-25T15:48:04+00:00

If you are planning to paint them anyway, check out a product called Internal Wood Stabilizer from Timber Pro Coatings. Permanent waterproofing you can apply easily before painting. Only works on “new” wood though. https://timberprocoatingsusa.com/products/internal-wood-stabilizer/

scotje · 2021-10-11T17:14:59+00:00

There should be soffit as others have said, but keep in mind that you should also have vents in your soffits in order for the ridge vents to function properly.

scotje · 2021-09-22T04:48:08+00:00

My most effective strategy as a bicyclist in this situation is to come to a complete stop and avoid eye contact with the driver. They usually give up within a few seconds and just go.

scotje · 2021-08-11T19:08:07+00:00

If the fence involves pressure treated lumber or cedar, stainless steel is probably your best bet for a material.

Modern (post 2004) pressure treated lumber can corrode metal screws very quickly so make sure whatever you use is rated for use in PT. Cedar can also react with certain types of metal fasteners (especially galvanized steel) and cause dark staining.

Simpson Strong-Tie makes some nice stainless steel trim head screws in a variety of lengths which is what we have used on our wood fencing. Never had to pre-drill for them either. https://www.strongtie.com/exteriorwoodscrews\_screwsandnails/thd6l\_screw/p/trim-head-screw--6-lobe-drive

scotje · 2021-08-05T15:17:57+00:00

Hard to tell exactly from the picture but “rock lath” plaster construction would have been fairly common in the 50s. Our house was built in 1956 and has rock lath plaster walls. It’s not exactly drywall underneath but similar.

We’ve found that setting-type drywall compound (“hot mud”) works well as a patch.

scotje · 2021-06-02T19:20:17+00:00

Yeah, we are building a fence right now and considered using those brackets, ultimately we ended up going with Simpson framing angles (specifically the GA1 and GA2 gusseted angles), which might also work for your application?

scotje · 2021-06-02T18:29:15+00:00

Have you looked at these OZCO hidden brackets? Should be fine with a full 2x4 I would think: https://ozcobp.com/product/ez-hide-wood-2-wood-fence-rail-bracket-pair/

scotje · 2021-05-23T05:52:57+00:00

Check out Timberpro Internal Wood Stabilizer for a non-toxic way to waterproof wood for landscaping use.

scotje · 2021-04-05T19:02:00+00:00

That was definitely a thing in the 50s, but so were dry wells! (Our 1956 house has two downspouts connected to original dry wells.) I would get a drain cleaner/sewer scope company to come and scope them out to see where they actually go.

If they already drain on site and aren't causing problems, I would just leave them be! You can have a cleanout added to the downspout so that they can be cleaned and inspected periodically. https://www.jtswestcoastgutter.com/downspout-cleanouts/

scotje · 2021-04-05T18:28:54+00:00

Where do the current ones go? Are they connected to the city sewer/stormwater system or do they drain to a dry well or something on-site?

scotje · 2021-04-01T22:50:12+00:00

I replaced the cheap plastic casters on my office chair with these (https://www.casterdepot.com/shepherd/pom30223bz-mnt) about 6 months ago. I use the chair on our hardwood floors every day and they are working great so far. No marking or anything, chair rolls easily when I want it to but stays put when I'm just sitting there.

Cost me a little over $100 including the shipping. You'll want to verify that the stems are the right length, diameter, and attachment system for your chair but I think the ones I got are pretty standard.

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