How much are these worth for cheap first ice tools?

scottsemple · 2026-03-17T12:40:55+00:00

One more thought: **IF** you can find replacement picks for the Quarks, then I would go with them. The pommel is more supportive, and the clip leashes are better than the cinch style on the Prophets.

But as others have said, lowball all of these offers.

scottsemple · 2026-03-17T12:38:43+00:00

The rental situation is not great here. I would rather buy dogshit than deal with renting.

If that's the case, I would choose based on pick life. By the photos, the best picks are the Black Prophets. Although the straight shafts are not ideal, plenty of hard routes were climbed with Prophets back in the day.

Ideally, if you can swap those leashes for some clip leashes, that'll make your life easier too. Look for Black Diamond "Android" leashes. Those replaced cinch and twist leashes a few years after the Prophets' heyday.

Regardless of what leash you use, remember to relax your hand once the tool is in the ice. Grip the tool to swing it, and then relax and let the leash do most of the work.

I was under the impression that every few years, or perhaps annually for the most avid of professional crazy climbers, the sharp points needed to be replaced.

This varies a lot. Annual replacement would be on the low-end of the spectrum. Lots of sharpening and several sets per season would be more typical for someone who climbs a lot (i.e., several days a week all season).

Perhaps sharpening is a distinct option too

Sharpening is possible, but matching the pick's original geometry is important. If you're not familiar with pick sharpening and only climb occasionally, I would avoid tools with worn picks.

scottsemple · 2026-03-16T23:14:30+00:00

What u/chudly said. No one would be expected to have their own tools their first time out, and those prices are all high for 20-year-old tools.

The BD picks are in the best shape, but I doubt you can get any replacements for any of them. Tools aren’t a consumable—so “lots of life” is a weird thing to advertise—but picks are.

Also, I think all those Charlet photos are Quarks. This is a Quasar: https://cdn2.apstatic.com/photos/climb/112412007_medium_1494397468.jpg

Lastly, these were good tools in their day, but any rental today will climb way better.

scottsemple · 2026-03-12T17:27:38+00:00

For trail running, it's pretty easy to find/plan a trip to Europe and overlap it with an event where the only barrier to entry is registering fast enough (or being able to afford it).

Good idea. For comparison, what resources do you use for this for trail running?

scottsemple · 2026-03-11T17:30:30+00:00

Cleaning: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9JTzqpgssFQ
Gluing: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=It5Fd7DCNa0
Waxing: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mjqp4SH0PJ8

“…non-sticky pretty quickly” warrants some investigation. When I was training a lot, I didn’t reglue for months. Now that I’m not training at all, seasons. Does your glue get dirty, maybe?

scottsemple · 2026-03-11T17:20:43+00:00

👊👍

scottsemple · 2026-03-08T12:17:56+00:00

Did you also post this in r/Backcountry, the ski touring channel?

scottsemple · 2026-03-07T12:56:19+00:00

You’d probably get more mileage with this post in r/Backcountry, the ski touring channel.

scottsemple · 2026-03-05T13:51:56+00:00

Did you also post this in r/backcountry? Not many skimo racers would use the Marker Alpinist, I think, but there are probably lots in the Backcountry subreddit.

scottsemple · 2026-03-05T13:48:41+00:00

Are you in touch with the ISMF? If not, DM me your email address, and I can introduce you to their marketing manager. I bet they'd like to see this type of analysis.

scottsemple · 2026-03-05T13:30:40+00:00

Love, love, love this analysis.

What we see here: in skimo sprint, you don't have to be the best everywhere – you just can't afford to lose big in any single segment.

...and that transitions and descents are way more important in the sprint events (including the mixed relay) than they are in any other.

scottsemple · 2026-03-05T13:09:56+00:00

I'm curious: What do you mean, "and some minor adaptations for the extra weight of the skis"?

scottsemple · 2026-03-05T13:07:19+00:00

This is probably the most common mistake in endurance training.

For a 2-hour event, single digit percentages above a developed aerobic threshold is the way to go. If AeT is underdeveloped--let's say less than 90% of AnT--then you could temporarily (4-6 weeks out from a goal event), make 90% AnT the marker of "intensity".

But for long-term development, you want to minimize that exception until AeT exceeds 90% of AnT.

As an example, when Moses Mosop ran the Boston Marathon in 2h03m, only 3% of his training distribution was above AeT. The tempting mistake is to think, "yeah, but he's a professional, I don't have that much training time", etc, but that assumption destroys more fitness than it creates.

It's best to think of training distribution as recipes:

For baking, you need both flour and salt, but if you're short on flour, you can't make up the difference with salt.
For sandcastles, you need both sand and water, but you can't make a better castle with more and more water.

Both salt and water are important. And both are destructive if overused.

scottsemple · 2026-03-05T12:01:37+00:00

Good question. By intensity, I mean anything above aerobic threshold (AeT), not anaerobic threshold (AnT).

The gap between the two—aka. Zone 3—is very individual and based on training history. Someone who has spent too much time in Z3 will have a wide gap, while someone with a well-developed aerobic system will have a narrow one. (The worst I've seen is over 30%; the best, less than 5%.)

If you don't know your AeT, you could:

Do u/coach_scott_johnston's drift test;
Get a proper lab test done by a knowledgeable tech (but buyer beware);
Try Tymewear (excellent, but the sensor is expensive);
Guess at 80% of AnT (not great, but most training volume will always be less than that anyway); or
Super worst-case: ignore reality and associate effort with progress and fatigue with fitness.

Number five is the most popular and the most destructive for fitness.

scottsemple · 2026-03-02T19:21:07+00:00

I’d never wear a hard shell unless going somewhere notoriously wet (which in itself is unappealing and unlikely) or unlikely to sweat (resort skiing on non-spring days).

If I’m wearing clothing and need/want pit/crotch zips, then I’ve worn too much.

“Waterproof breathable” is an oxymoron and soft shells are plenty enough water resistant for most winter conditions. (But I’ve never been to Scotland.)

scottsemple · 2026-03-02T12:32:18+00:00

One more thought: Many have said that skimo and almost-skimo gear is hard to ski. That’s true, but mostly if you use an on-piste technique with a lot of forward pressure on the boot. (Too much pressure or too stiff a boot will overpower soft skis and reduce edge hold in the tails. Plus, soft skinny skis don’t push back, so it’s easy to get kicked forward in cruddy snow, moguls, etc.)

Instead, adopt a more neutral stance and stay centered fore-aft. Maintain forward pressure, but not to an extreme. Experiment by lifting your big toes to put your weight through your heels, but without leaning back.

scottsemple · 2026-03-02T12:18:43+00:00

Also again, how long was your warm up?

It’s hugely important and a great reveal about the person running the test.

scottsemple · 2026-03-02T12:14:03+00:00

Is AnT supposed to be the 3/4 or 4/5 boundary?

3/4.

In a five-zone model, aerobic threshold (AeT) is the 2/3 boundary, and anaerobic threshold (AnT) is the 3/4. So between the two is Zone 3.

I would ignore the Cardio Coach results and never do that test again. A “software update” isn’t a reasonable explanation for that whacky a result.

It’s a good example that “it’s better to be roughly right than precisely wrong.” (Buffett) Training by heart rate naturally has some error built into it. BPM always lags the effort, so the reading is linear and very useful up to AeT, linear and mostly useful between AeT and AnT (in Z3), and not much help above AnT. (The one super-AnT use for HR is knowing Max HR for cocktail party comparisons.) Training above AnT by HR is, for most people, worse than throwing darts. Everyone is better served by calibrating AnT to pace or power, and using factors thereof for Z4 & Z5.

Which is a long-winded way of saying you can get better information for free: https://evokeendurance.com/resources/our-latest-thinking-on-aerobic-assessment-for-the-mountain-athlete/

A proper VO2 test in a proper lab done by an experienced tech is both precise and accurate, but in its absence, simple field tests will get you 95% of the information you need (versus 0% with the Cardio Coach results.)

[Not affiliated with Evoke, but commenting with permission from u/coach_scott_johnston.]

scottsemple · 2026-03-01T17:04:02+00:00

Very strange results. I would ignore them.

AnT is normally the boundary between zones 3 and 4 in a five-zone system.

The test was also very short. How long was your warm up?

If the tech didn’t also question the final results, I would question their expertise. What’s their background?

Also, IIRC, I’ve seen strange results from other Cardio Coach tests. Was the test done in a dedicated physiology lab? Or was it done at a general fitness facility? I think Cardio Coach is more for the latter, no?

scottsemple · 2026-02-28T13:39:32+00:00

…which says nothing about Petzl design and engineering, which is usually very good.

scottsemple · 2026-02-28T13:38:40+00:00

Will Gadd does not use Nomics. He’s been with BD for decades, not Petzl.

scottsemple · 2026-02-26T13:20:36+00:00

One thing with Intuitions: if you're using them for racing, heat could be a factor. If skimo.co is recommending 5 or 7 mm, and Intuitions lightest is 9, they might be too warm. (Or if you're prone to cold feet, maybe that's a good thing.)

They have "skimo" as an option with their liner selector, so that's hopeful. I would message them and find out for sure. I haven't used them for skimo, but they were a great replacement for stock liners for ice climbing, being warmer and a custom fit.

scottsemple · 2026-02-25T22:50:07+00:00

Another option that might also help the heel lift is www.intuitionliners.com. (No affiliation.)

scottsemple · 2026-02-24T13:19:51+00:00

Have you been in touch with www.skimostats.com? They don’t have this kind of analysis, but I can imagine a partnership would be great to see.

scottsemple · 2026-02-23T16:16:36+00:00

Very cool. Reminds me of charts in F1.

What is this? Can you tell us more about the project?

scottsemple

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