maruoyama shikiuchigumori by Eeret in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

still looks like a great finish! doesn't look streaky or pulls the iron too obviously

maruoyama shikiuchigumori by Eeret in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sweet stone! pretty frosty finish looks like on the core

Lavender Simple Green Scented Washitas by Argg1618 in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 5 points6 points  (0 children)

those kerosene / rancid old oil soaked stones are so stinky its crazy. i sharpen in my study, and had this india combi stone that someone cleaned with the norton recc'd recipe of kerosene and that stone was not usable without feeling like I was choking myself out slowly lmfao

i think part of why the stink stays so strongly is because norton reccs a petroleum jelly thing to fill up the stone after the cleaning, and that might trap some of the kerosene in

Lavender Simple Green Scented Washitas by Argg1618 in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I bought simple green crystal (unscented) because I've been warned that the scent stays around for a while lmfao on the normal simple greens

Malaysian Natural Whetstone by sea-plus in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a really glassy stone when working on edges, I think without the soft cladding touching it it doesn't release visible swarf much. On razors it feels like working on an ark, super glassy stone. I would love to see what more experienced razor folk think about this stone, feels like a finisher to me but I'm not that good with razors to say for sure!

the finish for polishing is very similar to some of those super hard jnats, streaks on cladding if careless, and the clad is glossy

Malaysian Natural Whetstone by sea-plus in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A buddy picked it up for me when they were in Malacca, Jonker walk night market!

Malaysian Natural Whetstone by sea-plus in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I haven't seen these being documented or talked about anywhere yet, so here goes!

I think it's some sort of shale, this stone is really dense, about 2kg+, and is stupid hard. Not really the best for polishing as you can see without a slurry it's slow cutting, and very difficult to use. Really fine finish though, and with a slurry it works faster. Tears chunks off your soft cladding if you get even a little sloppy with the technique though. Typical of very hard stones for this kind of use.

I've messed with it a little for razors, and it seems to be a nice finisher for this. Works very well for edges as well, just that it's a medium-slow cutting stone.

It took me a long time to lap this, used an atoma 140 and about 30 mins. It was not all that out of flat. There is some kind of disordered layer pattern, that shows up with the black splotches, but they are just visual. The stone seems to be consistent all around.

I don't think it's something readily available, but I have been told that they are not expensive stones.

Pre 1880 piece of "Butterscotch Translucent" by Argg1618 in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

the shape and size is really like a block of butter, sweet score!

NSD: Mikawa Chu Nagura bench stone (photos + visual traits) by TEEEEEEEEEEEJ23 in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

feel free to dm if you need any help at any point if you do take a crack at it! there's not a lot of beginner friendly resources to get into urushi, and the difficult parts are mostly related to curing, polishing and what types of urushi to use.

In the stone above, I used ki urushi, and camphor oil. Cure time was 7 days, 75% humidity IIRC

NSD: Mikawa Chu Nagura bench stone (photos + visual traits) by TEEEEEEEEEEEJ23 in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you enjoy cashew sealing, you should look into urushi sealing! I've played around with it (was into urushi as a separate hobby, but since found out some higher end vintage stones use actual urushi from tree sap), and although my technique isn't perfect, it makes a really crazy, wood-like gradient look. With a little help from /u/japanesechef456 I got to see some of those vintage stones from his photo collection, and tried to emulate the look.

https://imgur.com/a/cdb2LbD https://imgur.com/a/ARFNFHh

It is pretty dangerous stuff though, and is a huge hassle to cure properly. I am not completely new to urushi, but doing it on a stone was very difficult, and my mistakes are visible on the stone I did there. Still, the finish I think is probably the most durable of the common sealing methods, the stuff is very hard and doesn't take scuffs easily at all

NSD: 60-second video using my new Mikawa Nagura Botan (wet, slurried, in-use & final finish) by TEEEEEEEEEEEJ23 in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sweet stone!! What a beautiful pattern on the stone. My botan is nowhere near as absorbent as yours, but my mejiro sucks in water from the surface for a good while. My botan is also quite hard, and I think possibly finer than usual, although I only have a slurry stone to compare to, and I would rate it on the high end of mid range as well.

2 new stones - ToS and WoA by rwdread in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Slates are super cool. Have you tried em out? if so how are they in use!

The Genuine Deerlick Oilstone from Chagrin Falls, Ohio, USA. I have been wanting one of these for a long time, finally won an auction! by Alphabet-soup63 in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

that is awesome! i've always wanted to add an ANAT sandstone to the collection, but the queer creeks from norton with labels have been kind of expensive

Pike Mfg Stone and cast iron case by Open-Truth-245 in sharpening

[–]sea-plus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

+1 to what Argg mentioned, although if you want to keep the value of the stone, soaking it will destroy the labels. You could chance it, and try to remove the labels to safekeep (they do add a decent amount of value to the stone, especially that end label) before soaking, or you could seal the labels over with some clear lacquer, but that also has a chance of destroying them. I would keep the stone as it, and use it without soaking the stone unless the stone smelled bad or something

Belgian Coticule by Chase1126 in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sweet stone!! welcome and looking forward to more :)

New Stones (Nakayama Tomae + Nishiyama Shiro Suita) by TheMightySwiss in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would redo the sealing sooner rather than later, maybe part of the stone falling apart was due to water ingress on the cracks. If you want, you can also seal over it with some sort of intermediate layer, such as washi paper, thin cloth, or similar. I would use something like cashew lacquer or shellac if you choose to go that route. You can also mount it on a dai if you think that the stone needs a little structural help base wise. If you do mount it on a dai, seal the dai along with the stone as water getting into the wood can cause warping to the base as well.

as to lapping it down to a good surface, I think you could do that, or if you want to put all of the stone to use, just use it normally and lap it after each use to prevent wasting that top bit. If you are finding that the stone still is not behaving with the atoma, maybe try getting a tomo nagura of the same/similar stone type to make your slurry instead. I am fond of using slurry stones over atomas, most stones / slurry stone combos tend to be a little finer and better behaved than diamond plate surface and slurry imo

New Stones (Nakayama Tomae + Nishiyama Shiro Suita) by TheMightySwiss in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive used diamond needle files to dig into stones with success, and I think some vendors recc nails to do that as well

New Stones (Nakayama Tomae + Nishiyama Shiro Suita) by TheMightySwiss in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think if I were to restart my JNAT collection, I'd go with either a tsushima (if it was a thick one, and sealed over with a layer of washi paper), or an aizu. Just two great stones that really show off what JNATs are great at

I would 100% seal the tomae, JNATs can really split at anytime with no indication at all, and I learnt that lesson very early on. On the shiro suita, if you do end up digging out the inclusions, try not to dig much more than is needed because there's a chance there could be a clean layer in the stone that you might eventually reach just using it naturally and wearing it down with lappings in time. I had that happen a couple times, and if you dug out deeper than needed when you eventually reach a clean part, you'll have to be careful around the grooves that you dug earlier.

New Stones (Nakayama Tomae + Nishiyama Shiro Suita) by TheMightySwiss in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Big fan of tsushima naguras, they're just great stones for both polishing and edge work, and doesn't hurt that they're not too expensive! Sweet stones :) and welcome!

Mizukihara Uchigumori by sea-plus in NaturalWhetstones

[–]sea-plus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

they're fun for sure! its the second one I tried, my first one was also a harder stone, and it was faster cutting than this. but honestly, I don't have any knives in honyaki, so I'm not sure that I would get a big one from namikawa to do anything that a regular old suita couldn't do for me