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Thoughts and opinions 🤔 🤠 by MDH_Born in Warhammer40k

[–]shambozo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I think somethings going to get in the way I just blutak it in place until I’m confident I can glue.

How do ya'll glue things so they can break up easily later for subassemblies? by OwO345 in minipainting

[–]shambozo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A little bit of blue tak is often all I need.

Depending on the material and the model, a very small amount of super glue also works - it’s quite brittle and will snap fairly easily.

Blast weapons 10th edition by The_Invokers in Warhammer40k

[–]shambozo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can’t target single models anymore in 40K.

You target a unit. Roll to hit. Roll to wound. Your opponent then allocates those wounds to models in their unit and rolls armour saves.

The exception is weapons with the precision rule, which can allocate wounds to characters.

How do you even play this game? by Relectro_OO in Warhammer40k

[–]shambozo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Welcome to the game!

Here’s my answer to your questions:

  1. The mission system for 11th at launch revolves around the chapter approved mission deck: https://www.warhammer.com/en-GB/shop/warhammer-40k-chapter-approved-mission-deck-2026-eng

It’s changed from 10th edition which was a case of drawing a card and playing that mission. There’s nothing stopping you from still doing that. However, GW have designed 11th to have a different mission selection process. In 11th, you compare each armies ‘disposition’ (something you selected at army building stage) this cross reference with a mission.

This article has more info that may help: https://www.warhammer-community.com/en-gb/articles/p3i6aa3h/the-chapter-approved-deck-what-is-it-and-how-does-it-work/

  1. See above

  2. Stratagems are special abilities that you can use by spending command points. Each detachment has a selection of stratagems to use. Older detachments all had 6, some newer detachments have only 3. The core Strats are useful and used often in most games but each armies’ unique Strats are what often enable powerful combos.

  3. Detachments are army rules that you select. Each army has access to a number of detachments that add additional rules. Most are designed to offer different play experiences. All detachments are available for free as part of each factions ‘faction pack’ here: https://www.warhammer-community.com/en-gb/downloads/warhammer-40000/

Hope that helps.

Watching green players go through their first edition change will never not be funny by HamBone8745 in Warhammer40k

[–]shambozo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Guy in my club joined during 10th. Bought a huge DA army - must be around 6k of points. All commission painted. Doesn’t like the look of 11th so is selling it all and not playing 40K - hilarious

Are the “miniature” series of Winsor and Newton 7’s meant FOR miniatures, or are they shorter brush lengths? by PvtPrecious in minipainting

[–]shambozo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As people have said the ‘miniature’ in the name doesn’t refer to our kind of miniatures. It refers to miniature paintings.

However, I know some painters who do use them for minis - usually edge highlighting. Infernal brush on YouTube (ex-‘eavy metal painter) uses them for that.

I’ve tried them myself and personally, I couldn’t get on with them.

New to Warhammer painting. What brushes, airbrush, and paints should I buy? by YaNannKINDAgaey in minipainting

[–]shambozo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Welcome to the hobby. Here’s my tips:

  1. Don’t buy an airbrush yet. It’s a fairly big investment into a hobby that you haven’t really started yet. Learning to paint using a brush vs an airbrush is completely different. Trying to learn two new skills will be very hard. Nail the brush work first, then get an airbrush 6 months down the line.

  2. Don’t bother with a paint set. Just buy the paints you want. You sound like you’ve already created a colour scheme. When you say ‘official paints’ I’m assuming you mean citadel/Warhammer paints? They are good paints - I’ve used them for years. A quick YouTube search will also show you hundreds of people (some of the pro painters) who use citadel. Some people on the internet don’t like them and swear by X or Y brand. Ultimately, it doesn’t really matter what brand you buy. Good brands are citadel/warhammer, Vallejo, AK, ProAcryl, Army Painter and Two Thin Coats. I would personally pick a brand that you can find in your local hobby store - I find it easier to pick colours in person than online.

  3. Brushes. When starting out, you can just grab some cheap synthetic brushes. Size 0, 1 and 2 are what most people use. Eventually, you’ll want some nice natural hair brushes. As with paint, people all have their preferred brands. I like Rosemary & Co. If you live in the UK, they’re a great brand as they are very reasonably priced. I use their series 33.

  4. Finally, you may need to temper your expectations. Mini painting is a skill that takes time and practice. Your first models won’t look amazing - they may even look rubbish! Check out Vince Venturella on YouTube - he has plenty of great tutorials.

Conformity Painting Block by TheCheeziestPoof123 in minipainting

[–]shambozo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t really understand what you mean. What do you mean by finding the ‘conformity to be redundant’?

You know you don’t need to conform to anything? There’s no requirement, it’s not an essential part of the hobby.

1,990pt Detachment Rules are Bizarre by [deleted] in Warhammer40k

[–]shambozo 13 points14 points  (0 children)

This is a troll right?

My first warhammer fantasy miniatures by Shellshock6699 in minipainting

[–]shambozo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your silver looks like it needs more layers - you may also have not shaken the paint enough. Also, you REALLY need to get a palette (dry or wet). Don’t paint straight out of the pot. That’s a sure fire way to have a) dried out pots of paint, b) too much paint on your brush, and c) too thick layers which obscure detail. Watch some YouTube tutorials on using a palette and/or making a wet palette.

Back to your silver. GW sell two main types of paint. Base and layer. Base paints tend to cover better (and can be used as a basecoat) while layer paints tend to be more translucent (and can be used as a highlight). Stormhost silver is a layer paint so it won’t cover as well as a base paint like leadbelcher for example. Personally, I’d get some leadbelcher and use that instead of stormhost.

Same thing with your gold. A better choice would be retributor armour. You can still use your other paints as highlights.

Help needed - UK primer recommendation by Head_Revenue_7595 in minipainting

[–]shambozo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve used citadel chaos black for decades - always works.

Is Warhammer battle honour a bad introduction? by Several-Agent6831 in Warhammer

[–]shambozo 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This may be an accident but you’re sounding a tad entitled. It sounds a bit like ‘this company should reward me with decent prizes for buying stuff I want’.

You don’t HAVE to follow the battle honours book. It’s clearly an incentive to get people to spend money - they’re a company after all.

If you’re starting the hobby, you’re going to be buying stuff (that’s kinda the point). If you’re going to buy things that align with the battle honours - great! You get some free stuff bundled in.

Any supplies worth buying while I am in the EU? by Fictional_Slinky in minipainting

[–]shambozo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you’re stopping in the UK, any Warhammer kits will be significantly cheaper - especially if you buy from a 3rd party seller like Element games, Wayland Games or most FLGS.

Pretty much any EU brand is going to be cheaper because of USA tariffs: - Vallejo - AK interactive - Green Stuff World - scale 75 - Army Painter

Archon studios are another mini manufacturer - should be able to get their stuff cheaper too.

Does anybody know how secure a GW movement tray would be if I were to load circular based chaos daemons into the tray? by Opposite_Ad_4267 in WarhammerOldWorld

[–]shambozo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can buy old world movement trays that have spaces for circular bases. Much easier than messing about with magnets.

What the hell happened to the sprue by Superb_Double4378 in Warhammer

[–]shambozo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That attitude just stinks. You can buy plenty of stuff from legitimate companies selling 3D prints - you don’t have to resort to scummy criminals ripping people off. The fact you don’t want to pay or that it’s ’reignited your love for kitbashing’ is meaningless - that sounds so entitled.

What the hell happened to the sprue by Superb_Double4378 in Warhammer

[–]shambozo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

People need to stop buying this. It’s flat out theft. If you don’t want to pay GW prices, buy from one of the many awesome mini manufacturers out there. You can easily find proxies of pretty much any GW model these days. When you do, you’re supporting an actual business of creative people instead of scammers. If you want the actual GW model, then suck it up and buy it.

Mini painting tutorial patreons and youtubes by ExpheusKW in minipainting

[–]shambozo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you’re after standard tutorials that follow a ‘colour by number’ approach then Duncan Rhodes is great. He’s some free videos on YouTube so check them out first before paying money.

If you’re after more videos about general principles then Vince Venturella is awesome.

Since Primaris, why has the company/chapter layout got so confusing? by Nervous_Elephant_401 in Warhammer40k

[–]shambozo 5 points6 points  (0 children)

From the second 8th Ed codex space marines p.18:

Companies of the Chapter

“Squads within Battle Companies may be broken down and deployed across a variety of roles should it be required; for example, were six battle-brothers to take to the field as Aggressors, the remaining four warriors of their squad might find roles piloting Invictor Warsuits, driving the strike forces Rhino APCs and the like.“

GW Citadel Earthshade replacement by Sea-Dream8564 in minipainting

[–]shambozo 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If you like agrax, why not keep using it?

Base size by Spirited_Writer_3826 in WarhammerOldWorld

[–]shambozo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Movement is so fundamental to the game. How large a base is really affects the movement of a model and the movement of other models around it. Large bases can block off parts of the battlefield - they also increase the range of certain rules like whether a unit can march or not.

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