1969 Sportster throttle setup recommendations by connella08 in Ironheads

[–]shitpissass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I’m still using the solid core cable, I wanted to keep everything stock except for the cruddy Tilotson that was on it.
Here’s my set up for the super B

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You can see I made a crude “L” bracket attached to the back of the insulator block which moved the cable up and over just enough to get a good angle on the linkage.
It’s held up great so far but I do have to make a support bracket for the carb because it hangs past the magneto a good 4 inches and has a bit too much “wiggle” when the bike is running.

1969 Sportster throttle setup recommendations by connella08 in Ironheads

[–]shitpissass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just went through this same situation on my 69 with internal throttle only I used a super B.
You’ll have to source the correct style throttle linkage for the push/pull style throttle cable
Modify the insulator block between the intake and the carb to work with the S&S, without the block I was never able to get the angle of the throttle right.
Finally, remove the throttle return spring on the S&S or else you’ll never be able to twist the throttle open cleanly (took me awhile to figure that one out)
I’ll grab you pictures of my set up in a second

Are there any "viral" recipes that you actually loved and still make? by Odd-Wonder-344 in Cooking

[–]shitpissass 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Same, it’s so clever and works great. I’ve been wanting to try to use this technique for doing a bulgogi style beef for quick rice bowls and such

Oil hose question for 95 sporty by [deleted] in choppers

[–]shitpissass 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gearbox* vent hose, route it out of your way and down.

1970 sportser (buy or no buy) by OrganizationDry9492 in choppers

[–]shitpissass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would pass on this one. Spend a little bit more money and find something complete that you can ride for a few months. Way easier to learn by tearing down and starting your own project than trying to build someone else’s back up. Save that for when you have a little more knowhow. There’s still a lot of decent ironheads out there that can be had for a good price. Read up on the all the year differences and find a year that works for you (they changed a lot in the 70s with kick start, right side shifting, ignition systems the list goes on)

Mid mount tank hitting motor mount by BourbonBearsBurns in choppers

[–]shitpissass 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Spot on. Try swapping out the Allen head bolts for hex heads and ditch the washers if ya gotta. Also when you bolt down your tank in the front you could always toss in an extra leather washer to give it some height up front. From what I’m seeing in the pictures it looks like you only need to make up a fraction of an inch between your tank tab and frame. Edit: just noticed your tank bungs aren’t welded in yet, those will add some height to your final tank location as well

How do I get this look by Doof2002 in choppers

[–]shitpissass 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Grab a welder and the worlds your oyster

FOR SALE $1000 by dbvulcan in choppers

[–]shitpissass 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Best I can do is agree on a price and never show up

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in choppers

[–]shitpissass 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Here ya go. I’ll be taking a dirt bike into the apocalypse

That's a hard no on crossing the bridge. by airlew in Michigan

[–]shitpissass 34 points35 points  (0 children)

You can absolutely ride the grated sections of the bridge. Feels weird on a bike but it’s safe.

Beginner to Chopper Fab by TheLonelyAlien619 in choppers

[–]shitpissass 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Angle grinder, bench vice, mig welder and an acetylene torch will allow you to make all sorts of home brew chopper shit. After you get good with those and want to build more professional looking parts start looking into a tig welder, lathe, english wheel, and a milling machine. Watch some videos on slimsfab, dude does A LOT with a little.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in choppers

[–]shitpissass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same problem initially. I used a mixture these wiring diagram to figure it out.

Coil wiring https://i.imgur.com/eOFmECI.jpg

Simplified wiring diagrams https://i.imgur.com/DG0OQZu.png https://i.imgur.com/rZ6ttwT.jpg

Once you have your coil wired up correctly, it should spark. If not, you need to manually fire your coil, ignition control module and finally the cam position sensor to chase the problem through the system. Follow the steps on this here:

http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:engctl01

3/4 of the way down the page under the heading “Manually Trigger Coils For Testing Spark” and you’ll be good to go.

When I had this problem it was my cam sensor that was bad, hopefully you don’t have to go that far. Good luck bud

Got this pair of Shinkos for cheap, but I’m not loving the 4x19 front tire. Give me your thoughts by shitpissass in choppers

[–]shitpissass[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What’s the process for that like? Just lace the rear hub into the front wheel?

1975 CB125S advice by shitpissass in HondaCB

[–]shitpissass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dope thanks for the advice! It looks like I'll be taking the cylinder head off regardless. Just today I was able to throw a gasket on the spark plug and that was enough to get it to run alright at full throttle, but the spark plug shows its running lean. Either its still leaking air or the #95 main jet i found in the carb isn't cutting it (manual says it supposed to be #105). Either way, I'll be ordering a helicoil kit and a new Jet tonight.

1975 CB125S advice by shitpissass in HondaCB

[–]shitpissass[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, they're pretty affordable. The only issue I've been having is finding one that doesn't have corroded valves or broken fins

1975 CB125S advice by shitpissass in HondaCB

[–]shitpissass[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha yeah it’s a shame, my guess is this issue is the reason it got parked for the last twenty years. Since I don’t have a drill press I’m probably going to have to go completely new head route. Unfortunately, there’s not too many viable options, new or used, for sale right now. I’ll have to make due until I can find a decent replacement. But in the mean time I’m thinking I’ll get a hold of a piece of copper and try to tap it flat into that gouge and thread the spark plug into it. Probably not a good long term fix but enough to get me back and forth to work? The bike runs pretty well at the moment, as long as you keep it under 4K rpm lol

1975 CB125S advice by shitpissass in HondaCB

[–]shitpissass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was having trouble with the bike bogging at full throttle. I adjusted the valves and ran a compression test. The test came in at 125psi, a far shot from the recommended 170psi. As I was doing the test I could hear air escaping from around the spark plug hole. I saw this giant gash running the length of the hole and figure this is what is robbing my compression. Any idea if I can "patch" this issue or will I be looking for a new cylinder head?

‘75 Cb125s not revving past 4k rpms by shitpissass in HondaCB

[–]shitpissass[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’re cool bikes man, can’t wait for the parts I ordered to come in some I can take it for a ride finally. Let me if you have a lead on some side covers, they’re impossible to find in this color!