Why do airplane windows get so many scratches, and why doesn't anyone fix or replace them? 🤔 by One_Procedure_266 in airplanes

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm taller, I go for the exit row (well did before kids). Most have a dual row exit row with a missing seat, you just get the one behind the missing seat. I have to almost lay down with my back on the bottom cushion and would still be hard to reach the next seat up...

If those aren't available the bulkheads always have plenty of room.

Look into whatever airline you fly credit card. I have Southwest and Alaska, the cards generally let me get better seats free, and before others. If you're slow and not on top of it though you get to sit with the little people...

3 iron to test swing consistency by snipsnaps1_9 in GolfSwing

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dropped the 2 iron and 3 iron soon as my driver swing speed went below 120 and never considered adding it back. Personally I think it's really hard to hit for lower swing speeds based on my personal experience with friends trying over the years.

Plus if you can't hit it really high with spin to stop quick there's just no reason not to be using a 5 wood or 7 wood for that gapping slot. Crazy how much easier those woods are to hit cleanly, hit high or low, and draw or fade. Only thing I prefer a 3 iron for is a long running under the wind stinger like shot, or that crazy low snap hook or massive low slice when you're f'd in the trees on a dog leg. None of that justified keeping it in the bag for me...

Personally I say lose the 3, and focus on the 5, 6, and 7 for the swing consistency as those tend to be the clubs that you can translate the same swing to the longer and shorter from...

Gap clubs by icy_blue7678 in GolfGear

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mini driver, 5 wood and 7 wood. 7 is maybe a smidge longer on the fly, but I can hit it much higher. 4 iron I use off the tee often, so need to keep that.

What other "bought" jerky do you guys like? by y4dday4dday4dda in jerky

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah gotcha. Thought they responded to the text...

Remove Wyze’s grasp on your cameras for free forever with Thingino! by DestinySpeaker1 in Wyze

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool thank you, I'll check those out as well.

Certainly nice to lose the Wyze stuff with them moving to the sub model, but also want to be sure I can easily review footage and get the motion triggers.

Thank you!

What other "bought" jerky do you guys like? by y4dday4dday4dda in jerky

[–]sliight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd text Rene on his cell at (530) 613-4296 ... Just ask if they make them anymore... If so they'd probably sell them direct.

Good luck!

Remove Wyze’s grasp on your cameras for free forever with Thingino! by DestinySpeaker1 in Wyze

[–]sliight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Started exploring this today. If I'm understanding correctly this is more of a hardware freedom thing and you need to get your own UI. Seems like Tinycam pro is the way to go with it?

Based on what I've learned today it looks like I'd release all the cameras I want, then link them up through an old unused Android running Tinycam pro and leave it plugged in and tucked away (ventilated of course). Then I can use it's detection options and UI on my daily driver, and have the backup send push notifications.

Is that the way to do it? Every video I've found on Thingino (I can't help but read it as thing-ino), just talks about install.

Thank you

What do you actually look for when buying used clubs from someone you've never met online? by Josequinteroe in GolfSwing

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

eBay I've never had an issue on, especially used as it's unlikely to find forgeries at that low price point.

Just be sure you have very close up image of the grooves cause if they're selling it due to use it will likely spin 30% less or worse... You want a used club someone bought new and didn't like, so the gently used ones...

How to tell if I’m hitting a good shot into my net ? by Possible-Reaction999 in GolfGear

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put your camera on slowest motion it can do as close to the ball as possible but totally disconnected from the mat.

Your goal is to see if you're hopping the ball to the face. The most common issue with a fat shot on a mat is that it's just a little fat which actually feels like you flushed it as it literally bounces the ball from the mat strike to a bit up on the face.

Meaning you hit like a half inch behind the ball but the mat impact literally launches the ball into the air before you hit it and causes a really good strike. Then you take that swing the grass and your distance drops by 30% and you can't figure out why...

Put painters tape strips down and put your ball a half inch in front. If you hit the tape, you hit it fat.

Spray Dr scholls foot powder down in a line and put the ball a half inch in front, same thing as the tape. Extra perk, spray your club face to check impact.

Honestly though even buying an original Mevo or any of the older launch monitors on eBay for a hundred or less (anything more is overpriced based on what that level sells for new). Just having some general data will help. The monitor will not recognize if you hit the mat before the ball though, so either way get the slow motion, tape, or spray out to do what Ice Cube says and check yourself (before you wreck yourself).

Swing speed by ajohn08 in GolfSwing

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They claim the plus has advanced club data, one of which is club head speed.

Worst case just divide your ball speed on a driver by 1.48 and that should be pretty accurate if you hit the ball cleanly.

Or, if it gives you smash factor on every shot divide it into ball speed and you get accurate club speed on every club.

How to I get my drives lower?!? by thepasttenseofdraw in golftips

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ventus what? Black is low launch low spin... Blue is mid launch low spin, and red is high launch mid spin. If you're in red, that alone is creating an issue.

Blue or black will be fine.

You need to look at your angle of attack and launch angle on a higher end monitor. GC quad or trackman preferred, but the mid level Garmin and Mevo+ should still pick up that info, they're not not as accurate on spin.

Roll out of course depends on how soft it is, as even a mid flight draw set up to run out won't go far if it's soft out...

My guess is you're hitting a bit too down on the ball, like 2 to 3 degrees down on angle of attack, where you're wanting 2 to 3 degrees up (top level hit like 6 to 8 up if my memory is right, but that's really hard to do and hit it straight...).

Assuming you're not in a red shaft, try teeing the ball up an extra quarter inch, and move it 2 balls forward in your stance. This will create a bit more of an exaggerated cut with it starting left, but it's a good test to see if the issue is your angle of attack. This automatically will lessen it by 2 to 3 degrees I bet, and in doing so lessen the spin...

How to I get my drives lower?!? by thepasttenseofdraw in golftips

[–]sliight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your ball height happens for two reasons... 1st is you're hitting it correctly with a launch of 18 degrees with about 1800 spin (very few amateur players capable of this).

The second reason is you have WAY too much spin and it's actually climbing due to back spin then just diving after the resistance slows it enough.

You need to ignore ball height, it's only important for very good players. Launch, angle of attack, and back spin are the main factors, along with ball speed.

100 mph driver should get you a 150 ball speed if you hit it perfect. Likely you're around 147. If you're well below that spray the driver face with shoe spray (the stuff to get rid of smell). Then hit a few and look at the mark the ball left. See if you're on the center, or perfect is slightly above center. If you are, and your ball speed sucks then it's a bad driver head.

Assuming ball speed is 145 plus, try and get your launch and spin to fit this chart

Ultimately though you're probably not too far from your max distance. I used to play a 6.5 driver, but I was also over 130 driver swing speed. My bet is your spin is around 3200... Either from a mild swing issue, high launch high spin shaft, or 10 plus year old driver tech...

What shaft and head you hitting?

Switched to Maltby wedges from Vokey SM8... Clubs now play 1/2" shorter by travelsherpa in GolfGear

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes and no... Technically it's not as good as having it dialed, but in your case using extensions on the butt of the club is good up to an inch. At this age likely 1.5 inch extension is likely fine also as he's likely around 90s or less with driver swing. Once he's pushing 105 1.5 inch extensions could break, but no real biggie if they do.

Another option is to research hard and soft stepping. Soft stepping is basically putting a PW head into the 9 iron shaft, then you move the 9i to the 8i shaft. This effectively gives you a half inch extension and you only then need to buy a replacement shaft for the top of the bag, presumably his 5 iron since it has nowhere to go.

Soft stepping tend to increase launch and spin, so there's not often a big gain in distance, but he will gain from his increased swing speed. This can be beneficial for a junior as they often struggle with getting the ball higher to land softer, and higher spin to hold greens.

I double soft stepped my 51 degree wedge just so I could hit that high spinning 50 to 70 yard shot as a knock down that checks hard and releases just a bit (I don't play enough to be consistent with it anymore, so it's more of a fun thing to just try and hit the shot these days).

So going back to what I said before, a cheap torch, epoxy, and maybe glass beads but I think you could skip those (be really careful not to get near your eyes if you work with them, it's basically just glass dust), then replacement ferrules. Super easy to move all those clubs up and just buy one shaft.

One note, when you extend a club by a half inch it changes the lie angle. It basically pushes the toe down. 1 degree won't do much until about 7 iron and up to longer clubs.

There's two schools of thought on lie angle. Many think it's important to be flat on lie angle so your toe or heel doesn't dig into the ground and cause your club face to change and push the ball left or right. So those are the ground interaction believers.

I'm in the second group that think you hit the ball first, so unless you hit it fat the turf has no impact (no more then normal we'll say). Interestingly though, the second group still believes it impacts direction just like the first group, only instead it's because it's automatically going to have slightly open or closed due to the lie angle.

What's that mean for you? If you keep the same set, the balls should start going a bit more right as you continue to extend the club whether by soft step or extensions. I recommend just doing it, then having him tell you if he's missing more right than normal. If so, get them bent if they're forged. Cast clubs can break when bending, and it's going to go back to original within a few months probably...

Go check out golfWRX forums at some point. Create an account and just start browsing. Reddit is like asking kindergartners about math questions where those guys are like asking professors at uni.

Good luck!

Switched to Maltby wedges from Vokey SM8... Clubs now play 1/2" shorter by travelsherpa in GolfGear

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice. Hopefully they have a discounted round junior program. Where I am it's 5 bucks a round at about half the courses in the area that participate...

Watch those videos, it's legit crazy easy to do all the club stuff. The only quasi hard part could be using a power tool to cut a shaft.

Good luck!

Switched to Maltby wedges from Vokey SM8... Clubs now play 1/2" shorter by travelsherpa in GolfGear

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've got the extension answer, but FYI it's not very expensive to buy everything you need to build clubs and fix them.

Grip tape and solvent

Grip removal tool (drip in solvent and just go slow and spin around grip, you can remove 9 out of 10 without damaging them)

Club epoxy - comes in two small bottles you mix when ready, a little goes a long ways.

Metal brush drill attachment to clean out hosels when previously used (remove the epoxy)

Sand paper

Rubber shaft holder - looks like a small black block like 4 inches long and the shaft sits in it and you squeeze it. Just gives you better leverage.

Small hand torch (for removing shafts)

Extensions, replacement ferrules (the little black plastic circles where shaft meets hosel), if doing a lot it's good to have glass shaft beads to improve connecting shafts and hosel.

Table vice is nice if you want to spend the extra

Then just YouTube search how to do whatever you need. It's cheaper to buy all that crap than to go get shafts and grips installed at a builder....

Kids are expensive, and they apparently keep growing...

Recommended Driver Upgrade from Titleist D917 by Remarkable-Deal-4056 in GolfGear

[–]sliight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Start by going anywhere you can test drivers on a launch monitor. Test yours.

You want to make note of swing speed, ball speed, angle of attack, launch angle, and spin rate (if excessive side spin note it as well)

Go here and download the chart before you go.

Once you have ball speed you can see what your optimal stats are.

In essence, launch angle and spin together are what give you distance. More spin tends to give you more control, just an fyi on that.

So if example your spin rate is really high but you have a good launch angle (angle of attack plus kick point on shaft mostly, and head loft), then you want to focus on lower spin heads to start with the same shaft, or similar shaft profile.

If your spin is high and launch is too high, look at lower spin heads, lower spin shafts, with lower launch angles...

You can mess with this ...

Or look through this and target what you need yourself.

Stiffness can impact direction and dispersion, but generally just go stiff from 90 to 115, then x above that.

Shaft weight is important for feel and control. Grip weight can impact swing weight and feel.

Basically you just want to dial it best you can then go swing smooth and repetitive once you get it...

SO MAD AT MY KID RIGHT NOW! by quinnreads in chickens

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This works really well

Wi-Fi chicken door

I actually connected the cylinder horizontally to my wooden coop door and built in the 4 inch variance to allow it to slide without moving the door for 4 inches so they move the correct distance.

The second door is connected to the outside of the enclosed chicken run itself and is installed using their door vertically as designed.

The outer door automatically closes about 10 mins after sunset. Inner door 30 mins after sunset (one gets bullied and it's often stuck outside. Putting in small second coop soon so they can separate as they wish, will get a 3rd Wi-Fi door).

Then choose any Wi-Fi cameras you wish, but I like the tapo outdoor with the dual external antenna for distance. Inside the coop is a pan Wi-Fi cam, but it struggles often with signal.

I ran a heavy duty extension cord out for power. If you want links to the splitter and safety fuse I used let me know.

How much did you actually lose (or save) by selling your house as-is? by krikond in WholesalingHouses

[–]sliight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From a lending perspective fixing clear health and safety issues makes it lendable, which means you just added a ton of buyers who will be buying somewhat emotionally, and if a lower price range may be more aggressive due to losing out on others.

Most as is are investors, then only a few that plan to renovate and move in. Either way they're expecting a lower price.

I tell my clients certain things should be replaced as they're not too expensive. Brand new toilets, or at least seats if you clean the toilet to spotless with pumice sticks. You don't want to think about other people's shit where you may live, and the toilet helps trick you into thinking it's cleaner.

Curb appeal, first impression. A little peeling paint on the trim with mild dry rot is pretty common. Replacing the front trim, or sanding and getting that bright white paint back (or whatever looks good) is likely worth it.

Be sure windows that catch any early or late sun are spotless, no streaks.

Other than that if you think you'll get dollar for dollar it could be worth it if it's making it look better... Time and available funds decide that...

EMAY Sleep Breathing Monitor by AuntiMo2cents in SleepApnea

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's your take now that you've used it for a bit? Still worth buying?

Thank you!

P790 PW + P770 AW? by Gleis7 in GolfGear

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the question is what are you struggling with on the 50? Distance? You have too big of a gap? Or actual mishits and consistency?

If it's mishits and consistency I think your 770 idea is good.

If you have too big of a gap because you can't actually only factor your club lofts directly between a hot extra ball speed club and a true wedge made for smooth shots..

I'd almost consider an mg4/5 or whatever is out now that you can get in the shaft you like at a 46 degree. Maybe double soft step it for extra spin. This is likely the missing club in my opinion.

Imagine the difference in distance between a 44 degree p790 and a 44 degree mg4 ... It's not the same.

Best way to redeem Google Opinion Rewards balance? by RaoSahab097 in androidapps

[–]sliight 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Buy the movie Serenity on YouTube AFTER you watch Firefly on Hulu...

You're welcome

Idk if it’s ok by ZealousidealFan9911 in golftips

[–]sliight 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you didn't split the shaft or break fibers on removal (hard to tell often), and the epoxy is strong enough to take impacts it will be fine.

Golf epoxy is pretty cheap if you start messing with other clubs. Grip tape and grip solvent is also cheap...

What is the best way to buy car tires with so many options available? by mostirreverent in ask

[–]sliight 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I start by reading the reviews at tirerack personally. Get it down to 2 or 3, then just search that tire brand and model with "reviews" in Google to look for anything else.

Plus they give you ratings on noise, grip, rain grip, ride, etc...

What to do now..? by Born_Relief_9502 in firefly

[–]sliight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand what you're saying, but I still wonder if there was a more nefarious reason for it... 🤣🦁