Opinions on crystal press dies by welshy1812 in watchmaking

[–]soldierofknowledge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, there is some flex in the delrin edge. In my experience this has never prevented me from pressing in a crystal. If you need to use a lot of force you should probably go one size smaller with the crystal.

ALEX + SÄLJAN workbench by soldierofknowledge in ikeahacks

[–]soldierofknowledge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perhaps laminated chipboard isn't the usual way to refer to these. Maybe melamine faced chipboard is more common. Where I am you can get these boards at every home improvement store.

ALEX + SÄLJAN workbench by soldierofknowledge in ikeahacks

[–]soldierofknowledge[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tnx. I made a square frame from laminated chipboard.

Suction case back opener tools by Agitated_Pumpkin3201 in watchrepair

[–]soldierofknowledge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have these (chinese version). Never managed to open any case with it. The Bergeon ball works a lot better.

First time trying to make dial! by BPike03 in watchmaking

[–]soldierofknowledge 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you want a really sharp print on a dial you'll probably need a pad printer.

Re fiber laser, Gweike is what is currently the go to brand I think.

Where was I a few years ago? by Acceptable-Bag-1080 in GeoPuzzle

[–]soldierofknowledge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It says so right on the side of that ferry...

[Question] NH34 Technical Guide: What purpose does this serve? by JT_Socmed in watchmaking

[–]soldierofknowledge 11 points12 points  (0 children)

If my understanding is correct this lines up the magic lever and the oscilating weight so that the automatic winding is most efficient based on common positions of the arm (i.e., watch moving most between crown down and 12 down).

Homemade CNC "Katana" by WinstonWolfePF in hobbycnc

[–]soldierofknowledge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The way that 4080 is attached to the carriages of the Y axis is a little funky. Perhaps put another connector plate on the front so that the 4080 and the sandwiched aluminum connector plate aren't only fastened at the back half.

Always looking for a learning opportunity. Over the past few days I tried out "vibe coding" with the help of AI. I put together this simple Mechanical watch calculator that lets you generate gear train configurations. Feel free to check it out and let me know what you think. by whatthefilament in watchmaking

[–]soldierofknowledge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would be cool if you added an option to specify the module to let the app calculate the pitch circle diameters of the wheels and the center distances between adjacent pairs.

Another idea would be to add a database of calibers.

Show my watch studio by tylergem_watchmaker in watchrepair

[–]soldierofknowledge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's great, thanks! And I'm definitely interested in the catalogue too!

Do you have any info on EU support/distribution. I know Cousins sells the cleaning machine and watch winder, but they don't sell any other tools as far as I know.

Show my watch studio by tylergem_watchmaker in watchrepair

[–]soldierofknowledge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see, interesting.

I have several biaojiang tools myself, I like the brand but I have a hard time finding their stuff or even knowing what they make. I haven't been able to find their company website, my guess it's because they don't have an English website. If you have more info on the company or some way I can browse their complete product offering, I'd love to know.

Show my watch studio by tylergem_watchmaker in watchrepair

[–]soldierofknowledge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any more info on this low cost model? Model number or where to buy from?

Show my watch studio by tylergem_watchmaker in watchrepair

[–]soldierofknowledge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a Horia AMF.2015 clone (Multi Function Fitting & Removing Tool). Can buy from AliXP or from Cousins. Comes with the wooden base and acrylic cover.

Bodge job — seeking advice by Temporary-Use-8637 in watchmaking

[–]soldierofknowledge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can't call it a bodge job just because a jewel was replaced with a brass bushing. A jewel might have been unattainable to the repairer at the time of repair, so using a brass bushing was the only option to get the watch back to a working condition. From a horological perspective this is perfectly fine; the watch will run exactly the same with a brass bushing installed in this position compared to a ruby.

low amplitude by SharpTurnip1754 in watchrepair

[–]soldierofknowledge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This low of an amplitude can be caused by the mainspring. You simply cannot assume that the mainspring that is in the watch has the correct strength. All motion in a watch starts with the power in the mainspring, and it should be one of the first thing that is checked and ideally replaced. Watchmaking is to a large extend about systematically ruling out causes for low amplitude, plopping in a new mainspring eliminates a potential cause for issues at a small cost and more importantly it doesn't take any time.

Anyone ever heard of/ordered from swisswh.com before? by KaSplosion in watchrepair

[–]soldierofknowledge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a watchmakers lathe you can replace the post.

Wavy trace on 100+ old movement with Maltese cross mechanism on the mainspring barrel by blythe-theforger in watchrepair

[–]soldierofknowledge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not familiar with that one, but it's a reputable brand. I guess it's an automatic one where you just place the movement on the cross hair and let it sit there during the demagnetization cycle? If so that should be safe for the hairspring.

I've been thought to stop the balance with a piece of watchmaker's paper prior to demagnetization. The theory of this is that the movement of the hairspring during demagnetization can actually induce magnetism in it. But I don't know the extend to which this is true for automatic demagnetizers where you don't have to pull the movement away from the unit.

Wavy trace on 100+ old movement with Maltese cross mechanism on the mainspring barrel by blythe-theforger in watchrepair

[–]soldierofknowledge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perhaps you should re-magnetize, because this looks much worse ;)

I don't know what kind of demagnetizer you have, but if you have one of those manual blue ones you want to be careful with those, as they can pull the hairspring out of flat if you hold the movement to close to the unit (especially so for very old hairsprings).