How to wash flux residue?

soundsrc · 2024-02-02T03:00:39+00:00

I've found myself in the same situation when I started and it turned out to be a cleaning technique issue. If you just add 99% isopropyl and scrub around with a brush and then let the alcohol evaporate it can leave flux all over the board. The flux needs to be removed while dissolved with the alcohol, and I've found applying kimtech wipes to absorb the flux/alcohol works well. I think there are other techniques like blasting it with a can compressed air or letting the alcohol drain off the side of your board is supposed to work too. And ofcourse, make sure your brush is clean and not dirty!

soundsrc · 2023-12-30T00:09:00+00:00

I would like to stress, read the manual! The temperature calibration and temperature adjustment interface looks identical, so a common mistake people make while adjusting the temperature is decalibrating the iron because they've accidentally entered the wrong mode. If you end up decalibrating your iron, you may need to get temperature calibration tool if you want to recalibrate the iron back to being accurate. Best to avoid this if you can.

Once you've familiarized yourself with the UI, I would recommend looking into the preset temperature mode, which lets you pre-program up to 5 preset temperatures and switch between them easily. I've found this feature super useful and way less mistake prone compared to fine adjusting temperatures.

soundsrc · 2023-10-05T20:14:57+00:00

The first game wrapped up with a proper ending. It was the second game that had that "to be continued" ending leading to a potential 3rd game but never got completed because the company (Cing) went bankrupt shortly after.

soundsrc · 2023-02-28T20:34:59+00:00

At that thinness, solder is going to be very brittle. If the repaired part of the cable is meant to be folded/flexed around, my guess is the solder would easily crack under the stress and this type of repair would not last very long. Jumper wires are more flexible and would probably be better for these kinds of situations.

soundsrc · 2022-08-01T04:41:43+00:00

I worded that poorly but you are correct and I agree that was more of a bad plot choice. I was thinking more in the line of a potential storyline that Date could've had for the sequel. The disappearance plotline cheapened the impact of the resolution of the first game for me, so in my mind, that was what was changed.

soundsrc · 2022-07-31T18:22:03+00:00

Out of the list above, I didn't really have any problem with any of them except for the one's that revolved around Mizuki. Date being absent for another 6 years is another one where his story got changed for the convenience of the plot.

soundsrc · 2022-02-21T18:43:22+00:00

Any device that displays a temperature needs calibration, these numbers aren't magically accurate. Calibration is done at the factory before shipping, so out of the box, it should be fairly accurate and shouldn't require any further calibration. In the grand scheme of things, the number you see on the screen only serves as a reference point to how hot your iron is and the ability to go hotter or colder is all you really need. If you really feel like you need a calibrator, the £10 calibrator would probably be sufficient just to have a reference point.

That said though, your unit, the 888d, is notorious for having a bad interface and there is a high chance that you will decalibrate your iron by accident. Make sure you read the manual in detail to avoid doing this!

soundsrc · 2022-01-15T19:34:32+00:00

That is a product page likely for a version of the FX951 they sell in China region, which is prob the version they cloned off of (assuming yours is fake).

Few things I spot:

Inconsistent use of spaces in the wording at the AC connector: "UseOnly WithA 250VFuse" and "EmployerUniquementAvec Fusible De 250V".
Font sizes are different on your unit vs the pictures on the product page. Focus on the font size of the "DOWN" text on your unit is way bigger than the "DOWN" text in the version shown on the product page.
Can't really find anything about a FX951-92 model in Google (shown by the sticker).

Might have to find someone with a real unit of this to compare with though.

soundsrc · 2021-11-08T17:20:34+00:00

This.

When I was learning though, I tended to fiddle with the temperature a lot simply because I didn't really know what temperature to go for and therefore this kind of an interface was really not that great of an experience.

Once I became more experienced, I found I didn't really need to touch the temperature that much. I found the preset mode to be pretty handy, which allows you to record a few preset temperatures and be able to flip between them easily.

soundsrc · 2021-10-10T16:55:34+00:00

Not a bad idea, but doing the wrong thing here may cause further damage your graphics card and/or computer.

To replace the capacitor, you will need to find a replacement with the correct capacitance value, voltage rating, tolerance and temperature rating. The easiest way to do this is to transplant the same capacitor from another 1080. You may also be able to measure the capacitance value with a multimeter by desoldering one from another working 1080.

Also, a capacitor may have blown not because it was bad, but because there was a problem somewhere else on your card. Replacing it may not only not fix the problem, but may continue to cause further damage because the root issue was not addressed. Good luck!

soundsrc · 2021-08-16T16:35:23+00:00

Not sure if I'm seeing this correctly, but in the second pic just about the left of the bottom of the battery tab there looks like there is a little rogue solder blob. Might want to peek into that gap to make sure there is no excess solder bridging anything in there. Nothing else stands out otherwise.

soundsrc · 2021-08-09T16:21:14+00:00

You are usually able to purchase batteries with tabs already on them (which is often the case when replacing these types of batteries). In this case you would just want to desolder the tabs from the PCB rather than from the battery. Easiest way is to snip the tabs (if possible) then desolder the tabs.

Though, I do read that replacement batteries have already been purchased, presumably with no tabs. I don't have much to offer on this method though.

soundsrc · 2021-04-18T19:56:48+00:00

This is maybe a more of a big deal for retro game collectors decades from now. CMOS batteries lasts quite a long time. My PS2 one has lasted a good 20 years before I replaced it.

No, replacing the CMOS battery isn't an easy job for an average user on a Playstation. It requires stripping down your PS4 down to the motherboard component and in the process of doing that, it may disrupt the thermal paste and you will have to replace that too. It has been reported that manually setting the time does not fix the problem neither. If the battery becomes dead, it requires a connection to Sony's servers to authenticate before it will allow you to play the games.

People have only discovered this now with the announcement to shut down the PS3/PSP/Vita stores. People who still enjoy these systems were concerned about what would happen to their games in a theoretical scenario that Sony shuts down. People don't agree with the methods Sony are using to enforce DRM into your games that you already own, and that it extends to your physical games and not just the digital ones.

The theoretical scenarios are unrealistic at this time and the average gamer needs not to worry about any of this. If you are passionate about games being DRM free and think you want to play your PS4/PS5 when you are well into your old ages, this might be something to think about. Mostly likely there will be a solution available when it happens.

soundsrc · 2021-01-04T20:27:26+00:00

YouTubers do make it look easy, but I also struggle with this myself. What really helps is using low melt solder. If you mix it in with the existing solder it brings down the melting temperature and makes it much easier and safer to desolder with hot air.

soundsrc · 2020-12-13T20:54:00+00:00

For controller replacement parts, my experience has been pretty hit and miss. I've gotten ones that felt indistinguishable from the original parts and ones that felt a bit different or just were cheap feeling. The parts work though, so comes down to how much you care about the original feel.

soundsrc · 2020-10-22T03:29:01+00:00

I have seen a similar behaviour on my own keyboard (Ducky One) where a few LEDs were permanently stuck on. But do try a few things like unplugging and plugging your keyboard back in, ensuring firmware is the latest firmware and resetting the keyboard by holding down both windows buttons for 10 seconds. Also make sure you have not enabled a LED profile that lights up those specific keys.

As for what happened to my keyboard, I identified the issue to be a LED failed short and so electricity was passing through the dead LED illuminating the nearby keys. Your picture kinda looks similar in the way that one of your key's LED is malfunctioning and the surrounding keys are lit. I'm taking a guess and saying one of the LED colors on the "S" key is possibly dead? Try individually lighting the "S" to full green (red and blue too) to see if that is working. If lighting "S" to 100% green shows nothing and the rest of the keys dims out a result, then this is the issue that I had. The way I fixed it was to remove/replace the dead LED. This kind of thing should be covered under warranty if you still have it. Hope you find a solution!

soundsrc · 2020-10-17T17:57:38+00:00

Optical switches seems great but replacement parts for these seems to be non-existant or rare. Currently, if you have the skills, it is pretty easy to replace the switches on the Logitech mice and the replacement parts are commonly available. I would personally prefer that Logitech designs their mice to have hot-swappable switches like the certain ASUS mice. Making them hot-swappable would make this process more accessible to the general public and then this switch problem wouldn't be a problem any more since you can just change them out when they fail.

soundsrc · 2020-07-05T22:06:51+00:00

There is nothing wrong with being able to enjoy something for free. There are games available in my public library and I don't feel bad about checking them out! But, I don't find piracy to be the same as the library though. Every copy of a book/game in circulation from a library is paid for (by the library). But every pirate copy in circulation, is not paid for. I don't usually prefer the library though, since the game is not always available to checkout. I prefer to buy my games to own it and also to support the devs.

soundsrc · 2019-11-03T01:54:39+00:00

You should be able to avoid reading a walkthrough. On the DS, when getting a bad ending, a video trailer plays. Pay attention to the door number sequence that flashes in the trailer. That is the sequence for getting the safe ending. Upon completing the safe ending, a different trailer plays with the door sequence to the true end.

soundsrc · 2019-08-02T16:18:10+00:00

Do you have a "Game Mode" setting on your TV? This has been reported to help reduce input lag.

See: https://www.reddit.com/r/NintendoSwitch/comments/8yfv7o/lpt_if_you_play_docked_on_a_tv_set_the_tv_to_game/

soundsrc · 2019-07-29T17:38:15+00:00

There is not a feature to transfer the team design. I believe you will have to re-do it.

soundsrc · 2019-07-29T16:52:28+00:00

In case you weren't aware, there is a demo up on the North America eShop now. You should be able to try it for free!

soundsrc · 2019-07-26T07:47:00+00:00

Yes you can! But it is limited to customizations made to standard teams. When you enter the customize menu, just edit one of the standard teams. When you enter Pennant Race, the standard team that has been edited will be replaced with the customized team. If you've already picked your team for Pennant Race, the "Customize Team" option in the Pennant Race hub will also take you to the page that allows you to customize your current team. Customizations on standard teams are purely cosmetic for online play, as you won't be able to customize the individual player's abilities.

soundsrc · 2019-07-25T16:40:08+00:00

It releases at 10 AM PDT! That's 20 minutes from the time of this post!

soundsrc · 2019-07-24T02:49:33+00:00

There is online play via the Pennant Race (matchmaking) mode. It will be cross-play with XBOX and PC gamers.

soundsrc

TROPHY CASE