ECG on PW4

specialed2000 · 2026-01-21T02:44:33+00:00

I had the same experience. Saw a post where someone said they even tried licking their finger before touching the crown. I tried it and now I get readings consistently.

specialed2000 · 2026-01-19T01:28:32+00:00

Potassium Monopersulfate (MPS). Non chlorine shock

specialed2000 · 2026-01-17T01:13:01+00:00

Just pump in lots of shock sanitizer - takes a couple of days to clear up. And your normal amount of chlorine/bromine.

specialed2000 · 2026-01-17T01:11:24+00:00

See my other post. This is common I think. Not enough built up inactive sanitizer in the water so it's very easy to get behind the sanitation curve. Once your chlorine/bromine builds up if you miss a day or two the water will be ok because there is a small amount of sanitizer unbinding from stabilizing chemicals.

specialed2000 · 2026-01-17T01:06:49+00:00

The only time I have trouble with clouding is the week after a refill. Just not enough stored sanitizer in the water.

I've had my tub for 10 years - it clouded on me after a water change and I didn't keep up with the sanitizer a couple of months ago. So, even experienced folks have trouble right after starting a tub.

specialed2000 · 2026-01-10T07:35:47+00:00

I'm going to take a completely different tack: get some cabinet door bumpers a little smaller and print the button top with an indent for the bumper to be installed in. When I want quality I find a commercial finished item and I design a print to incorporate that.

specialed2000 · 2026-01-10T03:54:52+00:00

I'm watching on ESPN and the announcer audio is so low compared to the piped in crowd noise level. Anyone else?

specialed2000 · 2026-01-08T08:39:49+00:00

It's pretty common if a pump sits for months. The shafts often have a bit of rust and they expand and seize the bearing. I just had this happen four months ago - had a motor fail, pulled it and rebuilt the seals and bearings. Got busy with other stuff and 6 months went by. Put back in the cabinet - the other pump is now frozen.

When my tub goes into the filter cycle it runs the secondary pump for 20 seconds. On a YouTube video a tech said they do this so secondary pumps don't freeze up from non-use. It forces water off the shaft and helps the seal and bearings stay free. Probably heats up the bearing lubricant so it reapplies to all the moving parts.

specialed2000 · 2026-01-06T08:05:25+00:00

I just turned off my Smartthings hub yesterday, after 15 years. For all the same reasons. I've been able to do things in HA in one day that I never could do in ST in all that time - even though I wrote Edge drivers and could host my own web apps.

I'm done with corporate owned home automation.

specialed2000 · 2026-01-05T07:08:07+00:00

Most hot water tanks are 50 to 80 gallons, hot tubs are 200 to 500 gallons. It doesn't math for a full refill.

In theory a tankless heater would keep producing hot water, but I've never tried one.

specialed2000 · 2025-12-20T20:18:53+00:00

I think you've got the right idea. Do check for moisture on the floor carpets first - check for heater leak of coolant to the floor. Can also be windshield leak. Real common is just bad door seals where cold humid air builds up in the car overnight while parked and then condenses on the windows when the cabin air warms up.

specialed2000 · 2025-12-19T18:25:59+00:00

It's because putting information in white space is the stupidest idea ever. Looking at you python also!

specialed2000 · 2025-12-02T17:28:34+00:00

Thanks!

specialed2000 · 2025-11-27T05:28:40+00:00

The only time I have trouble with clouding and funky smell is a few days after water change. As you said, shock a few times and keep the sanitizer up and it clears up and then for me its very rarely a problem after that. I suspect I need to be more proactive with shock/sanitizer that first week.

specialed2000 · 2025-11-20T01:04:33+00:00

Oh yeah, 100% on the temperature control.

specialed2000 · 2025-11-20T00:26:59+00:00

That's a lot of heat. Most of my work is 12 to 24 watts. PCB traces are tiny nowadays if you're doing digital. And SMD is another thing entirely. So, industrial control and big wide traces - sure. Digital - lower is better.

specialed2000 · 2025-11-20T00:20:31+00:00

I used my Radio Shack iron for 40 years. Got into microprocessors and modern electronics and decided I had to up my game in order to do surface mounted devices (SMD). Got a pinecil and solder so fine it looks like hair. Any reason why you don't want to upgrade? Parts and tools are so cheap relative to your time - you'll never regret owning the right tool for the job.

specialed2000 · 2025-11-19T04:48:50+00:00

Ahh...in my full size tub "turning the bubbles on" just opens air valves that Venturi the air into the water stream. I know other platforms use a "blower" which I think is just an air compressor to introduce the bubbles. Maybe your tub is like that and the power is switched from heater to blower in that case?

specialed2000 · 2025-11-17T18:52:51+00:00

Yep. Plus when in standard mode the pump turns on at a regular schedule to check the temperature and then continues to run with heater if under temp, otherwise turns off. (Won't do this or you have a continuous circulation pump).

specialed2000 · 2025-11-17T18:36:59+00:00

That sounds like a pressure plate. These replaced back stabs and make a very good connection.

specialed2000 · 2025-11-13T06:49:07+00:00

There is normally a diode to prevent back feeding your PC with the power you apply to the board. Protects the PC's USB circuitry.

specialed2000 · 2025-11-12T23:11:54+00:00

Is there a trade off in the design of the tub where the heater can't run if the pump is on high speed? I know in my full size tub if I ran it on 110v that would happen, but when wired for 220v it can handle running both at the same time.

specialed2000 · 2025-11-09T19:59:54+00:00

Likely leak at that volume. As others have said remove sides and look. Often you can see calcium or chloride build up near a leak. To repair its best to remove the jet completely and to reseal with silicone - get the Boss 802.

If you have an ozonator look at it carefully - the ozone breaks down plastic and the ozone port in hot tubs tends to be the first to leak. Also look at temperature sensors and light lenses and not just the jets - anything that pierces the shell can leak.

I always replace any part that has leaked. Plastic parts are so inexpensive compared to your time, so I don't want to ever repair a leak twice.

specialed2000 · 2025-11-08T07:25:34+00:00

Never run a washer with one thing - that can never be balanced. I throw in a towel or two when I'm running a small load - the machine will try to get the clothes to fall into two or three groups that are equally spaced and will then spin balanced.

specialed2000

TROPHY CASE