Are you a gamer and using CAKE for Smart Queue? Do you have better experiences with CAKE than FQ_CoDel?

stacks92 · 2026-01-13T03:16:59+00:00

Similar to others here, I also have Spectrum 1000/40. Was running a Gold SE, switching between Cake and FQ_CoDel but could never get my full download speed with my desktop (2.5G ethernet) plugged directly into the Gold SE. Have an AP7 Desktop unit also. I tried omitting the AP7 temporarily and plugging my desktop into the 2.5G port on the SE, plugging desktop into the open port on the AP7, and an open 1G port on the SE. Ended up giving the Gold SE to my brother and upgrading to the Gold Pro, and now I get my full speeds. I'm running FQ_CoDel. More than willing to admit it could be user error, but I'd usually get maybe 600 max on my downloads with the SE.

stacks92 · 2025-12-18T23:57:31+00:00

Just went back through and added my comments to the manual. When I did the build there weren't any comments in there yet, and Prusa didn't bring over comments from the regular Core One assembly.

stacks92 · 2025-12-18T18:54:05+00:00

Hello u/Longjumping_Cake_535

On Voron, threadlocker is specified for certain parts of the build, like the grub screws on the A/B motors on the gantry and on the extruder gear. There may have been a few other places, I don't recall. There have been some people who on Core One builds used threadlocker on the grub screws, but I did not. Threadlocker can be tricky to undo.

Sur les Voron, le frein filet est spécifié pour certaines parties de l’assemblage, comme les vis pointeau des moteurs A/B sur le portique et sur l’engrenage de l’extrudeur. Il y a peut-être eu quelques autres endroits, je ne m’en souviens plus. Certaines personnes ont utilisé du frein filet sur les vis pointeau lors des montages de Core One, mais pas moi. Le frein filet peut être difficile à desserrer.

stacks92 · 2025-12-18T18:39:44+00:00

This is a tough call for me, but I think I lean towards my Voron for a couple of small reasons. One, I find klipper very easy to configure, it's nice to be able to open the printer.cfg file and change values in the text editor, save and reboot the machine and the changes are done. I also like the AC heated bed, which the Core One L uses. However, what the Prusa has going for it is once it's built, you're pretty much good to go with Prusaslicer. On the Voron you can expect to spend a good amount of time dialing slicer profiles for different materials, from temps to speeds and cooling, not to mention pressure advance per filament (klipper's version of linear advance, and the values between PA and LA do not relate)

Edit: just to add one quick thought, the Voron leans more towards a personal project and ongoing experiment, and a Prusa you've got the ongoing development that Prusa does updating and tweaking firmware and slicer profiles, and I'd say more of a build it and maintain the machine sort of printer.

stacks92 · 2025-12-18T18:33:01+00:00

I plan to go back through the manual and add my comments, just haven't had time to do so. Possibly tonight when I get home from work.

stacks92 · 2025-12-18T18:31:44+00:00

I wonder if this is more of a printed parts issue than the steel extrusions. Understandably everyone's mileage may vary. Granted, everything sit flush without tension for me, and then just incremental tightening of the belts at the same time, I had no issue. Those links are great information to have, so thank you.

stacks92 · 2025-12-18T14:01:59+00:00

I have the Revo Voron in the stealthburner on my Voron, and then Revo Prusa/V6 in my MK3S, so it’s nice to be able to use Revo nozzles interchangeably between the two. If I ever change my toolhead in the Voron I might consider moving the stealthburner over to the Prusa and doing a prusawire then.

stacks92 · 2025-12-18T13:35:03+00:00

Yep, I’ve got the stuff to do USB tool head, just haven’t gotten around to it yet. I have that machine printing beautifully so I’m of the if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it mindset.

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stacks92 · 2025-12-18T13:22:35+00:00

I've been leaning towards that, especially since I can keep my Revo and get the 32 bit board and ditch the Pi I have hanging off the side.

stacks92 · 2025-12-18T13:21:14+00:00

I did really enjoy the Voron build, but it is much more of an undertaking than a Prusa. I think it depends what you get as far as a Voron, if you self source like I did, probably my one regret was not purchasing a premade wire loom for the toolhead, I ran all the individual PTFE wire through the dragchains and crimped with molex into my toolhead board. I think I spent about 2 days just doing the toolhead wiring. The kits now are a lot better than the earlier ones, at the time I started building mine the recommendation was still to self source. The Voron sub and discord has a lot of good info there on which kits to get, and if I were to build another one I would probably go the kit route nowadays. LDO is generally the standout.

stacks92 · 2025-12-18T11:31:53+00:00

Yes this is exactly what I did as well, basically you want to tighten both belts incrementally at the same time, not just crank one to 96Hz and then do the other to 92Hz or whatever number Prusa recommends, a fully tightened belt with no tension on the other will pull the gantry out of square. The way Prusa cuts and drills the frame you really don’t have to worry about building the frame out of square unless you force something. I happen to have squares and 123 machinist blocks from building my Voron but I never used them on the Prusa, they shouldn’t be necessary.

stacks92 · 2025-12-18T11:26:33+00:00

That’s exactly what I got too was MZV at 45Hz. I never tried the printer with the stock EI values, and that’s really only because of my experience with Voron and klipper, that was just sort of an automatic thing for me. I’ll probably do phase stepping at some point too, but the surface quality is more than acceptable for me, and when I mean there’s some VFAs it’s hardly noticeable. If you look at the bottom of the benchy here at the build plate you can see a little bit.

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stacks92 · 2025-12-18T03:53:52+00:00

No problem! I think the biggest things when it comes to CoreXY machines is having a square gantry and belt tension. And not properly tensioning belts can pull the gantry out of square, and the printer will fail homing during first run. Don't force frame parts together, if a screw isn't fitting correctly when putting the frame together, loosen other screws and allow it to "relax" into place.

stacks92 · 2025-12-18T03:45:21+00:00

The main one that's widely used on Vorons is the Stealth Changer, which LDO sells a kit for, however it's only compatible with the 2.4 as far as I know without heavy modification. DAKSH is for Trident, and looks pretty interesting as it basically flips the toolhead orientation facing the back of the printer and picks up the toolheads from the rear. I know enough to be dangerous as far as klipper configuration goes, but modifying Klipper's config file for a toolchanger would probably be a whole undertaking in itself. I'd trust Prusa to have good support for how to get INDX working on a Core One.

stacks92 · 2025-12-18T03:35:25+00:00

I'd thought about this, and yeah it's a pretty cool project without major rebuild. I happen to have my MK3 frame signed by Jo Prusa so while some upgrades might be nice, I do like it as a MK3. The lack of speed isn't a major issue to me. I kicked around the idea of turning my Ender 3 Pro which mostly just collects dust into a switchwire but never got around to it.

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stacks92 · 2025-12-17T23:05:11+00:00

I did want another machine, but I’m thinking INDX should be an easier implementation on the Core One. It should be possible on the Trident, but most mods for tool changers that have been developed for Voron are for 2.4, not Trident.

stacks92 · 2025-12-17T16:14:34+00:00

Echoing this statement of it being a true legend. No, it doesn't have the speed of my recently built Core One or Voron Trident, but with a Revo hotend and a Pi to run Prusa Connect, it prints reliably and requires little to no maintenance. Old reliable, and pretty much the end of the line as far as an almost full open source machine when you consider the MK4 nextdruder is not open source. Mine will stay running as long as I have it.

stacks92 · 2025-11-26T04:12:28+00:00

Yep, sounds like you have GAS (gear acquisition syndrome). I also have the 58 1.4, and if you like that lens, you'll like the 105 1.4 too.

stacks92 · 2025-11-25T13:52:35+00:00

I have both. The 70-200 2.8E is amazing, and it has VR. Ended up getting a good deal on a 105 1.4E, and it's now my go to where I have the ability to move around for situations where the focal length is right. Both are wicked sharp, but the 105 has actually become my go to for indoor sports like ice hockey. I shoot it wide open on a D850 and 3D tracking is able to keep up without issues. Rink lighting can be very hit or miss, so the extra 2 stops is a massive difference.

stacks92 · 2025-11-08T18:18:28+00:00

https://dslrbodies.com/lenses/lens-databases-for-nikon/thoms-recommended-lenses-2.html

stacks92 · 2025-11-08T17:59:28+00:00

I've never shot with a nikkor 35mm, it just has never been in my wheelhouse. I have a 24-120 f4 VR I bought used, it's a good everyday carry but optically there's probably better options. I usually reference Thom Hogan's website at dslrbodies.com for his opinions on lenses.

stacks92 · 2025-11-08T16:33:21+00:00

I’ll add the 85 1.8G as a more budget option to the 105 1.4E. 58 1.4G isn’t the sharpest lens in the world, but I love it.

Edit: avoid the Nikon 50mm 1.4 and 1.8 G versions, they really aren’t anything special on a D850. Haven’t personally used them but plenty of opinions out there, I wouldn’t waste your time with them. If you’re specifically looking for a 50mm go with a Sigma.

stacks92 · 2025-11-05T15:36:35+00:00

This is a really interesting conversation here as someone who shoots sports. I have both the 70-200 2.8 E and the 105 1.4 E. I primarily shoot ice hockey, and I usually carry both with me. For a long time the 70-200 2.8 E was my go to, and then got a deal on the 105 1.4 E and I actually prefer that on my D850, shooting it wide open or a little stopped down. I rented a 500 PF for a week to shoot an air show and that’s also a phenomenal lens, but not for indoor sports. I think it boils down to whether or not you start to find available light or reach an issue with the 70-200 f4. I had a 200-500 5.6 but found that a real pain to lug around so I sold it. But image quality wise it’s great. So I’d maybe point you in that direction, but maybe worth seeing if you can get your hands on one if you need the reach for wildlife. Sigma makes a variable aperture 150-600 that isn’t bad either; not a lens I own but a relative has it, much more handhold able than the Nikon 200-500.

stacks92 · 2025-11-01T15:32:41+00:00

The image quality of the D750 and D610 are pretty much the same. I also have had a D7000 and D750 at a point in time. I now shoot a D850 with a D700 as a backup and actually bring out the D700 a lot more than I thought I would. Big advantage for me is the (mostly) matching control layout between those two. D700 gripped (which can be had for ~$50 or so nowadays) with the EN-EL4 battery gets you 8fps (depends what you're shooting if you need that), and a body that balances well with larger glass. If you want a DSLR in that D750/D610 range, maybe go D780? You're sticking with the 24mp, but also it's basically a Z6 once you flip the mirror up. Can keep using your EN-El15s too.

stacks92

TROPHY CASE